Us Cutter Blade Setup
Keesha Ondieki
Can someone please help me. I have this problem with my cutting blade splitting. I have 2 machines, a Creality and and older Wanhao. At first it only did it on the Creality but now the problem migrated to the other machine as well. We have tried to change settings like increasing the temp, enable thin walls, lowered the speed, made infill 100% and I still have this issue.
I use Cura to slice.
Is there any other things I can try?
It could be a loose belt like it was in this thread: Cutter not fusing all the way around. Does it only happen in one direction or are the top/bottom walls also splitting? If it is only one direction that would suggest a loose belt.
Hi Nathan
thank you for responding. the split happens on all sides, but if I print the same cutter again the split is on a different spot. Some cutters are slit all around, others are just a small section.
I think its a setting problem as both my machines does that. My line width on Cura is 0.5mm. I make my blade thickness in Cookiecad 1mm. I make a solid cutting edge I dont use the extra blade option.
If you can post a photo of your issue it can help. If it is consistent you can also try increasing your flow rate in your slicer as it may be underextruding. You can also ask for help in our discord at discord.cookiecad.com, if you do show a photo and perhaps someone will have ideas.
7 in. (17.8 cm) Scalloped, Our hole cutter blade allows you to cut and set your cup deeper. USGA rules state that a cup must be set a minimum of 1 inch below the surface of the green. Choose from inside sharpened edge, or outside sharpened edge.
Rotary cutters are a great tool for a variety of crafts. Eventually you will need to change your blade when it becomes dull. Below are easy to follow instructions to assist with this process for the 45mm RTY-2/DX Ergonomic Rotary Cutter, 45mm RTY-2DX/PBL Ergonomic Rotary Cutter, Pacific Blue and 60mm RTY-3/DX Ergonomic Rotary Cutter.
amazingly it did cut once. i accidentally bumped one of the spools behind the machine and about 5mm popped out the front that i didn't notice and when the selector moved it actually cut the piece off and it fell into the catcher on the front of the MMU2.
i don't understand github because i'm old and don't care; but maybe somebody opened up a firmware request where the filament hits the finda rolls back via the pulley, the selector moves, then the filament is jogged forward say 5-10mm and then the selector comes back and cuts before moving to the next tool change. that would at least give the knife a purpose. strings it has no effect on because the strings just bend under the knife.
If i from the menu choose to cut one of the filaments, the printer behaves ok until directly after it has cut the filament, the moment selector cuts it the mmu behaves as if it got reset.
Also i have tried both normal and stealth mode on mmu but didnt see any difference (i almost always have it set to "Normal" and not stealth)
I should also add that mmu reseting itself is not exactly a new thing, the difference now is that i can easily reproduce it by doing a cut.
I have contacted prusa support about my mmu issues (long before cutting was implemented and fw 3.9.0) but all i got was to check power and cables to mmu and that has been done multiple times and i really don't believe that is the issue (of course i'm not excluding power problems but not because of cabling)
Update to fw 3.9.0 and preferably also replace the 3 updated plastic parts, two for the blade holder and one for the ptfe holder that holds the 5 short ptfe tubes.
Then go to menu and select cut on one of the filaments.
That's not the ptfe tubes i'm talking about, it is the other one, the 5 short ones close to the cutter.
The shape of that piece is changed a bit, probably to avoid bending the very end of the filament as it is cut, old one have the slot where the blade moves in more like a V shape, but new one is a bot more flat and supports the filament a bit more.
OH! Interesting, thanks. I sanded down each filament path on that holder a good amount so I'm good there, but yes I agree it definitely needed improvement. The biggest issue is if there is even the slightest friction, filament won't be able to get pulled by the motor because that piece previously had no wiggle room.
not sure what you mean because each of the 5 holes got a short ptfe tube that is chamferd in one end and i dont understand where you could possibly sand.
the tricky part is to turn the chamferd side the right way so filament dont get stuck on its way out towards the extruder (completely flat filament tip, like after it is cut)
There is a menu entry to cut a filament "manually", you just pick which one you want to cut then the mmu2 does its thing, hopefully without bending the filament.
Note that the tip will be completely flat and not pointy, so probably good to make sure the short ptfe tubes got the chamfer at the correct side.
Yes. It works reasonably well. It took quite a bit to get it set up properly though. The indentions are not quite right in there. I did break my blade on some carbon fiber Poly-carbonate filament, it goes through flexible filament like butter though.
Developed in partnership with Alex Anderson, the Quilters Select product line was designed with the quilter in mind. Our flagship products include a nonslip ambidextrous ruler design, weighted rotary cutters with magnetic blade replacement and double sided mats with both light and dark sides.
The Palmer is easy to carry in your pocket, flat design so it fit very well without a bulky feel. The rectangle design is easy to hold in my hand and the ease of blade replacement is top notch! It is as beautiful to look at as it is to use, love it! Thanks for making a box cutter cool!
I really like the form factor of this box cutter. Slimmer and sleeker than the typical ones you can buy in any major home improvement stores. The fact that you can change the blade on the fly is fantastic.
This is one of the best small utility knives on the market. It is simple and convenient to use. I like having the sliding control on the top instead of the side. The mechanism also avoids dragging the blade edge while moving in and out. The Palmer is just large enough to provide a secure grip.
Finally took the plunge and snagged one for work and now I can't live without it. It's gorgeous and well-constructed and is the farthest thing from flimsy or unsecured, like my last boxcutter. Might mess around and get a couple more for around the house, too. For reasons.
This guide should be used if there are problem with filament cutting, or when the filament cutter blade gets dull. The sharpness of the blade can become worse over time.
We recommend replacing the filament cutter every 10-15 spools of filament used (or quicker) to ensure the cutting performance is unaffected.
We have found that after about 5.000-7.000 filament cuts, the filament cutter blade can get dull but the blade might not get deformed as shown in the image below.
If you encounter issues with the AMS filament retractions, we recommend replacing the blade for the best results. If the blade is sharp, the filament will be cut cleanly and should not cause problems during operation.
It's crucial to power off the printer before performing any maintenance work on the printer and its electronics, including tool head wires, because leaving the printer on while conducting such tasks can cause a short circuit, which can lead to additional electronic damage and safety hazards.
When you perform maintenance or troubleshooting on the printer, you may be required to disassemble some parts, including the hotend. This process can expose wires and electrical components that could potentially short circuit if they come into contact with each other or with other metal or electronic components while the printer is still on. This can damage the electronics of the printer and cause further damage.
Therefore, it's essential to switch off the printer and disconnect it from the power source before doing any maintenance work. This will prevent any short circuits or damage to the printer's electronics. By doing so, you can avoid potential damage to the printer's electronic components and ensure that the maintenance work is performed safely and effectively.
The first step in replacing the filament cutter blade on the A1 is to remove the print head cover. Grab the base of the front cover and gently pull towards you.
The clips holding the cover in place will be released, allowing you to remove the front cover
The next step is to release the filament cutter lever. To do it, start by holding the filament cutter pressed to allow for easy removal of the single screw holding it in place.
Keep holding the lever pressed until the screw is completely removed, then gently release the cutter.
We also recommend cleaning the metallic extruder gear, and the yellow gear before proceeding with installing the new filament cutter.
After some time, small filament debris can become stuck on the extruder gears, and cleaning it at this point will ensure smooth operation in the future.
A can of compressed air can be used to blow out any debris that could be present inside the extruder, and around the gears
Installing the new filament cutter blade is easy. Simply align the blade with the filament cutter to slot it in place
Then, gently push towards the direction shown in the image below, to click it in place.