Truck Injector

[Sourn Sanneh]

Doesit have electric shut off or is it a cable pull? Either way make sure the solenoid is working as mentioned or make sure the shut off is pushed in or the cable is not loose in the lever. Been more than once the truck would not start because I forgot to push the handle back in.

To answer your question, YES, the plungers will stick in the pumps thanks to low Sulfur fuel, I have a D4 Cat thal all the plungers stick after sitting awhile, fortunately with that pump, a side cover comes off and I can tap the cam followers back down to get them going. There is a definite need for some kind of lubrication in the fuel. I have had to do the same thing on a friends D5.

It should be a Robert Bosch "P" type inline pump. This could prove to be a dilemma, you won't be able to pull the barrels easily because the pistons have to come out the bottom first and of course they are stuck, the pistons are at their apex, so way past port closure, so there is no way to get any kind of solvent into the pump barrels and the delivery valves can't be removed until the barrels are out. There are plugs on one side of the pump to lock the pumps up for camshaft removal but are no help. You might just have to get strong and pull the barrels, there is a puller for them, there doesn't seem to be an alternative other than pulling the pump. Remember one thing, when the engine shuts down, the governor goes wide open, so all the pumps are stuck at the top wide open throttle, so be sure to do them all, or make sure that the rack assembly is free. So if you do 3 or 4 and the rack can't move and it starts it will run away to destruction. On other type pumps I have filled a grease gun with a solvent or naphtha and made an adapter to screw on where the injection line goes and a grease gun can make all of 10,000 psi, some might get past the delivery valve, worth a try. This is all off the top of my head as I remember it, so I might be wrong. Tad

So it would be an A pump or an MW on an international harvester built engine, the P pumps were not used until the new generation series came out. What I do is remove the inlet off side of pump, blow the fuel out with compressed air carefully, then try to fill fuel galley with brakleen, plug it when full. Bad part is it leans the wrong way. Taking the return out the back side may help. Take lines completely off outlets. Let sit with the brakleen. Check periodically as the brakleen will leak by inside and also evaporate a little. If this has a kill cable, it likely sat in the shutoff position. After sitting a while with brakleen still in it, try cranking it with lines left off. See if it spits the fuel out of each outlet. May run out of brakleen after a few seconds. Keep refilling it. Crank it some more. Move the shutoff lever and throttle levers to see if can feel the rack moving properly. If it keeps pumping good, connect the fuel supply line and returns back to normal. Crank it after bleeding the fuel galley again, observe foul now spitting out of the outlets. Before putting injection lines back on, make sure it quits pumping fuel when pulling the shutoff lever to kill position. Try it back and forth a few times to make sure it's got control. Never tighten the lines if it doesn't change pumping status. It will run away if you do. Only tighten lines after completely verifying the shut off does control it, showing the rack is moving properly. This is a last ditch effort, otherwise you'd need to remove the pump. No way would I ever suggest tearing it part way apart on the engine. Good luck and I hope if frees up for you, and remember to keep fresh fuel in it.

Good Morning INJPUMPED; Question, does this pump have a shut off valve in front of the pumps that gets closed or is there linkage that moves the rack to a no fuel position? The reason I ask, is, that if there is a stuck shut off, then the pumps might indeed be moving just nothing to pump. I believe that I might have a manual on that pump, just need to find it. Thanks

Typically to shut the engine off the governor has a shut off lever that moves the rack to zero delivery. Sometimes it's controlled by a cable, other times it has a solenoid connected to it so it will shut off with the key. Those can be made cable easy enough too lol! Only time I've ever seen a shut off valve in the fuel line to pump is for a emergency safety system like for pulling, or a murphy system. There is 2 check valves in the transfer pump where the primer is located and they can stick shut, but you would not ever get it to prime at all.

I had stainless installed in 2 of my 08's and had a couple fail a few years later. Don't think they were installed right on those ones. One of my 2013's had the stainless cups replaced at 36,000kms. It's hit and miss. It's a couple of grand to have them done, buy the truck and budget it into the purchase price. While your guy is in there he can check for fretted/cracked injector tips. Had a few of those on our 08-09 CXU's with MP8's.

I go into passive regen every 70-80 miles like clockwork. Then it goes to manual regen needed, then to urgent, then disspears and runs great for 70 more. It doesnt matter if I pull over for a parked regen, or just drive through it, same results, same cycle.

Ive cleaned the filter twice, replaced dpf seals 3 times. 2 new clamps. cleaned 7th injector, then replaced 7th injector. Replaced flex pipe. Replaced all temp sensors on dpf. replaced diff pressure sensor. Replaced one sensor on aftertreatment fuel pressure valve, then told I should have done the whole thing, so thats new too. EGR diff pressure sensor removed and cleaned.

Over 10,000$ in two months.Ironically, only about 3000$ in parts, labor is whats killing me. Almost every shop ive been into has thrown a new part on it, ran 3 or 4 service regens until they get the numbers looking good, and taken my money. 80 miles down the road Im back in regen.

Smoke is getting worse, its whitish blue. Not a true indicator of excessive fuel, but the way the truck acts is like that filter is getting Soaked, to the point of plugged while regening, until I get to that 3rd stage,.. The URGENT stage, then all that smoke gets forced thru and im clean again. And, Ive also dropped from a steady 7-7.5 mpg to under 6mpg in the last 3 or 4 weeks. Since Transport in Missoula ran 4 back to back regens and had my truck boiling in the sun. At that point they replaced the aftertreatment fuel pressure sensor. I replaced the entire valve a couple days later.

After 2 regens, with PTT on it, im showing under 10% soot rate. But when i first hook to it, it usually reads 144%. Unfortunately, Im getting better at reading PTT than alot of the Techs ive had work on it. They seem to like to just push that button (service regen)and walk away. None have ever actually stayed there and "monitored" anything.

Any symptoms sound familiar? Any help would be greatly appreciated,... Im about to default my loan and lose this truck. I cant run like this, and these shops have exhausted all of my reserves with "uneduacated guesses".

I should say, after reading my post, I meant no offense to any Mack/Volvo Tech's. I know there are good ones out there, I just seem to have had a very unlucky couple of months, and my frustration level is through the roof.

Kingdirt you could have done a complete delete of all that EPA crap and spent less money. Then would have a much more efficient and dependable truck. I can't believe more people aren't doing this. I know of several that have done Cummins and had great results. There are now plenty out there that can do Mack.

Kingdirt which 7th injector do you have? Is it the big one with wires to it or just the one with only 1 line to it. If it is the big one there should hopefully be 2 lines to it as one is air purge. If not it can be installed. Without air purge the 7th injector gets clogged and will not due a proper regen and cause the issue you have. Also if it does have air purge or the small 7th injector there can be an issue with the air purge system that will cause the 7th injector to clog. I have seen that several times.

Refined,..In retrospect, i wish I would have went that route from the git go. But believe me, If I knew then what I know now. Ive just wanted it fixed, and everytime I stop, and put it in the shop I fall farther behind. I do run California alot, So I am hesitant to delete it, but at this point, Yes, I could have saved myself, alot of headaches.

My 7th injector? I dont "think" it has a purge. 2 coolant lines, and an electrical wire going to, plus the fuel. I was in a Watkins shop in LA, and the mechanics pulled it and cleaned in August. They ran a test when they reinstalled it with PTT and it passed. Then TEC in Vegas told me it was bad a couple days later and replaced it. It definitely looks like a different type, like they put an upgraded one on?

Like I said , Ive only had the truck a couple months, but that first injector had been written on 08/14 So, it wasnt even a year old. I was pretty "heated" about it, because they just did it without even talking to me. I went into regen at Primm, and pulled over and called them. They told me to bring it back and they would "start from scratch" but Ive had it with them. Never again will I go to these places that treat me like im an idiot. Or better yet, They treat me like im a fleet truck, and they can just throw parts at my truck without asking me if I can even pay for it first! LOL

I should note, The smoke is white, with a blueish tint. And its thick,.. I watch it fall in my rearview like rain on the pavement. I DO monitor my coolant and oil a couple times a day, and there are no losses or gains. NO contamination that I can detect in either. Im at my wits end, but I have 3 things in the back of my mind.

Second, I had it down in Tupelo MS, and those guys were convinced it was exhast related. They replaced my flex pipe, but I believe there is a leak between the injecor housing piece, and the piece thats wrapped in heat tape. I also believe the last time I had the filter removed, they didnt get it set very well where the 4" comes into the top of the DPF system. I can see some soot lines up there. SO, im gonna go down the exhaust and replace all seals and maybe some clamps from the Injector to the DPF system. Going thru the exhaust would be a cheap and easy next move, But also, these regens are SO regular and calculated, I just cant believe its pressure related.

3a8082e126