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Algernon Alcala
Your truck needs air! Not a little bit of air. Your diesel engine needs all the incoming air it can get. Increasing air in the combustion process will help manage your Exhaust Gas Temperatures, Limit your smoke output, and increase your power.
This is why boost leaks kill diesel engines. Boost leaks can result in a smokey, laggy, dog-of-a-truck, which runs hot and burns excessive fuel. Basically, the exact opposite of what you want from your diesel.
Boost Testing your diesel is essential! Every truck that comes in the shop, gets a boost test. It seems about 85% of them have a boost leak when they show up. Most of the time customers report still seeing peak boost on their gauges despite a boost leak. However, common symptoms of a boost leak include Increased Smoke, Higher EGTs, Excessive Lag, and Loss of Power.
Over the years, our team has used just about everything you can think of to boost test a truck. From PVC pieces to smoke testers, and just about anything else you can think of. There are a few kits out there that will help, but nothing that truly tests the entire system accurately and is made of premium parts.
The Compressor Inlet Adapter is a billet adapter that connects to your Compressor Inlet with a heavy-duty, 4ply boot, and 2 high strength T-Bolt clamps. Removing a Cold Air Intake in most trucks is a job that only takes a few minutes and requires the most basic mechanical skill. The same goes for installing and using the Compressor Inlet Adapter. Your billet adapter even comes with how many inch-pounds the T-bolts need to be tightened to.
Test your Ford Super Duty Power Stroke Turbo Motor for leaks the correct way and keep the motor running healthy and tow with confidence! Many Power Stroke owners don't even know they have a boost leak until it is diagnosed and fixed then feel the real torque their motor was supposed to be putting out! This easy boost leak test will take 10 minutes and will detect any leaks in any of the charge pipes, cac intercooler, cold side pipes and intake manifold. All common and potential leak points.
A boost leak will cause the turbo wheels to over-spin to try and make up for the lost pressure. This puts a lot of strain on the turbo and it will start to develop shaft play from running too fast too hot and poor oiling. Boost leaks can start out small and eventually turn into a blow-out or worse if left alone can eventually cause the turbo to fail.
For tuned motors running higher boost the leaks present a much more severe over-spinning to compensate for the leak AND the higher boost from the tune. This accelerates the turbo failure and expensive repairs replacing turbos and other damaged engine components.
This tester installs right on the turbo inlet flange. This is the most ideal location as its the beginning of the charge pipe path and pressurizes the whole sysem. Secure the boost leak tester with the provided T-Bolt clamps and start your test with a lower pressure on your compressor and listen for leaks. The larger the compressor the more filling time you have between it switching on for refill.
Tips using the tester with a schrader valve kit: Work your way up to 10 PSI, 20 PSI and watch the bleed down rate of the pressure on the gauge. 30 PSI should be sufficient for any turbo system. Bleed down rate can be used as a check instead of filling the system with pressures over 30 PSI. 1 psi/second is a general rule. Bleed down is faster at higher pressure and slows at lower pressure.
Tips using the kit with a compressor fitting: Absolutely need to regulate the compressor pressure down or there is a risk of over pressurizing the system! This can lead to an violent blow off of the tester cap or a charge pipe connection. It is highly recommended to use the Line Extension kit with the ball valve for pressure control. Regulate down the pressure to 0 PSI. Connect the regulator kit and allow 5 PSI of pressure to fill the system. Listen for leaks. Work your way up to 20 PSI.
Fix all leaks that are audible and use a soapy spray to find smaller in-audible leaks. After all leaks are fixed, test one last time, shut the control valve off and trap the air in the charge pipes to watch how the system bleeds the air. Slower the better. Normal is about 1 psi/s at higher pressure and as it drops below 10 psi the system should bleed down slower.
Test the gauges on 1956 to 1983 Ford Products. Works with Fuel, Temperature and Oil Pressure Gauges. Also verifies that the Instrument Voltage Regulator is working. Check each gauge at High, Medium and Low readings. Simply unplug the sender and attach the Tester with the supplied alligator clip leads, turn the ignition on, and verify the function of your gauges.
Now you can quickly determine if the gauges in your car are accurate. The GT-Ford-1 works with Ford Vehicles from 1956 to 1983. It lets you verify the high medium and low reading for your gauges and also shows that the Instrument Voltage Regulator is working.
If you own a classic Ford Lincoln or Mercury you know that the gauge readings are often not what you would expect. It is incredibly common to have the temp gauge reading hot when the car is actually not hot at all. Or fuel gauges that read perpetually low. Or oil pressure gauges that seem to be more mysterious than accurate. Aftermarket senders may or may not be supplying the right signal. The wiring in between can be suspect, and full of bad connections. And then gauges themselves need to be properly calibrated. It is hard to nail down the problem.
Desert Classic Parts has developed a gauge tester that will supply the right signals to allow you to test your gauges. You unplug the wire attached to the sender and connect the tester to that wire on one end and to ground on the other (alligator clips make this easy). Switch on the High or Full position and the gauge should show a full tank, hot engine, or maximum oil pressure. Switch to the Medium position and your gauges should read right in the middle. Switch to Low or Empty and they should read the bottom of the scale.
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Finally a way to test your gauges that is economical to buy and simple to use. This gauge tester will verify that your fuel gauge, oil pressure gauge and temperature gauges are all working correctly. It will also verify that your instrument voltage regulator is functioning properly as well. This tester DOES NOT verify the function of the various sending units. Once hooked up to the specific sending units wiring, the four position switch will test the instrument voltage regulator, High side (high, hot, full), mid point and low side (Low, cold, empty) gauge readings. Operating instructions are printed on the back of the gauge. All testing connections are done at the sending terminal. 88 This tester is not returnable or refundable. Warranty claims will be repaired or replaced at the manufacturers discretion. **
- Fuel Pressure Test Fitting -
fits:
2003 - 2010
For many years it has been difficult to find the proper fitting to easily connect a standard fuel pressure gauge to the 6.0L Ford Powerstroke Diesel. We have now sourced the components to bring you a high quality Ford fuel pressure tester, so you can perform a 6.0 fuel pressure test for a reasonable price. This diesel fuel pressure tester fitting has an OEM 1/4 inch Schrader connection which is the most common connection size for almost any fuel pressure test kit.
Fuel pressure is very critical on the 6.0L Powerstroke. Low Fuel Pressure is one cause of premature injector failure. We advise checking fuel pressure any time new injectors are installed. Our Blue Spring kit is an OEM authorized update to boost fuel pressure and increase injector life - see related items at bottom of page.
Instructions:
- Always were safety glasses when working with pressurized fuel!
- Remove the factory fuel pressure test plug (Allen head) located on the secondary fuel filter housing on top of the engine. See photo below for exact location.
- Screw in the adapter fitting and tighten lightly with a wrench to seat the oring
- Attach your fuel pressure gauge to the Schrader fitting and finger tighten.
- Start the engine and carefully check for leaks
-When finished, remove the fuel pressure gauge and fuel pressure tester fitting. Then re-install the factory Allen plug.
An excellent and accurate tester that is battery powered. Also determines correct amperage and spark plug firing. An excellent and functional tool for checking your coils before that road tour. Uses a 6-volt battery, instructions are included.
USA made.
Chris was born in Radford, VA but has called Richmond his home since 1980. He and his wife Jennifer share two children, Braden and Evie. Outside of Richmond Ford Chris likes to spend time with his family and is an avid Ford Racing fan. He has been with Ford since 1996 and is a Ford ASSET graduate. Prior to becoming the manager at Richmond Ford West, Chris spent 13 years as a Ford & Lincoln master technician.
Kent's father was in the military so he moved around a lot but considers Savannah, GA home. Since moving to the central Virginia area he likes to spend time with his wife and enjoys photography and listening to records.