Joe:
Very interesting piece. But, notice an important consideration. They cite that a lot of the lightning strike is dissipated by the stays, That is the important difference between the Morgan (and most other sailboats) and the Nonsuch. No stays on the Nonsuch. But, there was this caveat in the last line too.
"And all without any appreciable increase in lightning strike risk, particularly since we have installed a substantial lightning conductor."
I read that as a heavy wire run up inside the mast in order to protect it in a lightning strike. Which somewhat diminishes the main reason for going to carbon fiber which is the reduction in weight especially aloft. But, as long as the insurance companies are willing to insure boats with carbon fiber masts I say go carbon fiber if you want. But, that could change overnight if their losses from carbon fiber mast replacement start to rise. I would say that most boats do not have carbon fiber masts at this point. As for me I'm sticking with aluminum. I might consider a boom of Carbon Fiber but, not the mast. Mostly because it would hurt my head less if the topping lift breaks.<g>
As for selling my Nonsuch you'll be waiting a very long time for that to happen. <g>
Mike Girardo
BIANKA
1986 30U
|
Didn't some of the early "new" models (260, 324, 354) have a carbon
fiber wishbone, and didn't Hinterhoeller revert to aluminum
later? Maybe Allen Ames or Mike Quill can tell us.
At 10:48 AM 6/12/2009, Mike Girardo wrote:
>... I might consider a boom of Carbon Fiber but, not the mast.
Bill Spencer
LIONHEART, NS30U #352 Hyde Park, NY
In all but the lightest breezes. the weight of the wishbone itself does
not seem to affect sail shape all that much. Since I do a mixture of
sailing in mid San Francisco Bay winds that would "blow dogs off chains"
and light air Oakland estuary beer can races where the evening breeze
drops with the light of day, I opted to have separate port and starboard
topping lifts to support the wishbone, switching the support with each
tack, in the light evening air, a cunningham and a vang.
The original owners, designer and builder all were aware of the racing
benefit of an adjustable vang line running between the luff cringle and
the leech cringle of the sail. I use that vang to good advantage while
racing in fresher breeze. When cruising with friends, I ignore my vang,
cunningham, topping lift, and apart from a set it and forget it
adjustment, my choker line as well, reverting to my beloved "one string
to pull" configuration. Yeah, all right, so I have a two winch, endless
mainsheet setup...(grin)...
John Foster
Blueberry 22 48
All the greater weight of the aluminum booms does is close the leech in very
light wind (makes boat very slow) and put anyone at greater risk who gets
hit by the boom.
Cheers,
Arthur Langley
BEAR AWAY 30C 54 BEAR AWAY 30C 14 BROADWAY 30U 426
Wells ME Wells Harbor South Baymouth ON Toronto ON Royal Canadian YC
NH & Maine Fleet Lake Huron Fleet West-Lake Ontario Fleet
cel 207.459.6410 tel. 207.449.1980
On 6/12/09 11:44 AM, "Bill Spencer LIONHEART 30U 352"
> I would say that most boats do not have carbon fiber masts at this
> point. As for me I'm sticking with aluminum. I might consider a
> boom of Carbon Fiber but, not the mast. Mostly because it would hurt
> my head less if the topping lift breaks.<g>
>
While there is lots of theory and speculation about carbon masts and
lightening, I don't know that the in-the-field experience with them
justifies the concerns. Lightening is a chaotic and poorly understood
event, the ability to predict damage in any particular situation is
almost non-existent. I believe Composite Engineering has had at least
two carbon masts take direct lightening strikes, in neither case was
the mast destroyed or even much damaged. Perhaps a company like BoatUS
has some statistics on dollar damage for strikes to a carbon rig vs.
aluminum, if they do I would like to read it. There is even an
argument that dissipating the energy of the strike in the rig (which
might lead to the loss of the rig) is preferable to dissipating it in
the hull (which can and has sunk the vessel). On my carbon rig the
aluminum sail track is used as a lightening conductor (it is more
conductive than the #4 copper recommended by ABYC) and grounded to the
keel, so no extra weight is involved.
My point is, I do not believe there is empirical evidence to support
lightening resistance as the primary reason to choose aluminum over
carbon in a sailboat rig.
Perhaps the best strategy is to raft up next to a much larger boat
during lightening storms. This is similar to the joke about not having
to outrun a pursuing bear, you just have to outrun your companions....
Jon Fitch
'Anomaly'
> So with all the masts being replaced with carbon, and new boats
> being made from carbon, has the cost to produce/replace dropped
> significantly or am I dreaming. Can mass purchase/order reduce
> costs or is it a supply and demand issue?
>
I don't have an authoritative answer. But the primary costs seem to be
the carbon material and finishing labor, neither of which is going to
drop a lot with modest volume. At least at Composite Engineering they
already have the tooling and it must already be paid for. But I am
sure they could work more efficiently building, say 5 or 10 at a time
than one. A savings in labor is no doubt possible with some
automation, but to justify that investment would probably take an
order for 100.
One alternative would be to purchase the carbon tube, and do all the
finishing yourself. I don't think this is out of the range of anyone
handy with a few tools and some experience with fiberglass lamination.
The tube itself probably represents less than 1/4 of the labor of the
mast ready to step.
Jon Fitch
'Anomaly'
I'm not sure whether CF has come down in price as a material, but I know that the cost of glass and epoxy has gone up. And shipping it anywhere, that cost has gone way up. As for labor, it depends on their building methodology, mold type, and curing. You might get a little bit of a discount for asking for a pile of sticks at once, but I wouldn't think much of one.Haven't worked with CF or Kevlar yet, but... I happen to need a new mast for my Sanderling. And I still have the old one. The stuff of Friday afternoon at-work daydreams, for sure.
The shipping cost is the same for the tube or a finished mast.
Cheers,
Arthur Langley
BEAR AWAY 30C 54 BEAR AWAY 30C 14 BROADWAY 30U 426
Wells ME Wells Harbor South Baymouth ON Toronto ON Royal Canadian YC
NH & Maine Fleet Lake Huron Fleet West-Lake Ontario Fleet
cel 207.459.6410 tel. 207.449.1980
Most of the strength is in the bare tube, it is really only thing that
should be autoclaved. The rest of the stuff is reinforcing patches and
hardware attachments, all done with normal room temp curing resins
laminated by hand in small pieces. On the other hand, it would be very
difficult to duplicate the bare tube at home, not just because of the
autoclave, but for the lack of the very peculiar braiding machine that
is used.
Jon Fitch
'Anomaly'
Hello all,
My boat was built for me in 1986. For one reason or another, I went through two accumulator tanks before hearing from a boatyard person that new boats don’t have them. I do not know if this is true. My boat has operated for several years without an accumulator tank and still has the origional water pump.
I nope Murphy, famous for his Law, does not read this and decide to have at my water pump.
If I recall, it was always fairly normal on KANIK for the pump to run a
bit to build up pressure again after the system had been turned off for
a while. Where you need to worry is if it runs every few minutes even
when you are not running water.
So - you have lots of options -
1) ignore it
2) work on sealing the accumulator tank and other places where there
might be a small pressure leak
3) replace the accumulator tank (Personally, I would be reluctant to
suspect it)
4) put in a new pressure pump and either keep or eliminate the
accumulator tank.
Bruce Anderson
KANIK NS30U 286
Mimico Cruising Club
Doug Caldwell wrote:
>
> Hello all,
>
> My boat was built for me in 1986. For one reason or another, I went
> through two accumulator tanks before hearing from a boatyard person
> that new boats don’t have them. I do not know if this is true. My boat
> has operated for several years without an accumulator tank and still
> has the origional water pump.
>
> I nope Murphy, famous for his Law, does not read this and decide to
> have at my water pump.
>
> Douglas Y. Caldwell, Toronto Canada,
>
> Nonsuch 30 U, #353, 1986
>
> dycal...@rogers.com
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> *From:* Nonsuch Yacht Owners Discussion List
> [mailto:NONS...@LISTSERV.AOL.COM] *On Behalf Of *Walter Mills
> *Sent:* June 12, 2009 10:56 PM
> *To:* NONS...@LISTSERV.AOL.COM
> *Subject:* Jabsco Accumulator tank ITT
>
>
> Hello
>
> Every time I turn on the pressure water system the water pump starts.
>
> I am sure it is time to replace the Accumulator Tank.
>
> Any words of wisdom out there to share before I go to the marine store.
>
> Cheers
> Walter
>
> Chester 30U 293
> Mimico/Toronto
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Create a cool, new character for your Windows Live™ Messenger. Check
> it out <http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9656621>
>
If there is a small air leak, or even over time if the air is
replaced by water, then there is no more compression and therefore no
stored pressure when the water faucet is turned on. To remedy,
disconnect one of the hoses at the bottom of the tank and allow the
water to drain. Then reconnect the hose and see if it works better.
If the tank has a threaded plug at the top of the tank, check it for
tightness while the tank is empty. If necessary, remove it and re-seal it.