Removing VC17

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Art Digout

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Nov 8, 2011, 10:24:43 AM11/8/11
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My boat has been moved from fresh to salt water. It has/had VC17 on
the bottom. I was advised to sail the boat as is for a while and the
salt water would remove most of the VC17. I could then remove the rest
of it and apply a salt water antifouling paint.

The time has now come to remove the rest of the VC17 but it is proving
to be a struggle. I can sand it off, but it is slow work even with an
electric sander. I estimate it will take me approximately 40-50 hours
of hard work to clean the bottom of my 26. Power washing makes no
impression on it at all. Is there a way other than abrasion? If not,
is there an abrasive other than sandpaper that would work faster? I'm
reluctant to try a grinder for fear of damaging the (epoxy?) barrier
coat that's under the VC17.

Art Digout
Weenin 26C #39

Chris Inniss

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Nov 8, 2011, 11:40:22 AM11/8/11
to Art Digout, INA-Nonsuch-Di...@googlegroups.com
Good morning Art,

3 or 4 years ago, I was told by a pro "boat flipper" at my yard that a season in freshwater followed by a good scrubbing and power-spraying was his recommended way to remove VC17 from the bottom. Because of the viscosity of VC17, he said I should look at any colour I saw remaining as a fine fairing or a stain.

He pointed to my hands which were black with oil from the diesel and said, "When you wash your hands, they will be clean but will they look clean?"

His recommendation to set up the "surface chemistry" of the VC17 stain to receive new paint was a final wipe-down, ("like you're wiping dust off the kitchen counter"), with acetone.

This made sense to me...

Chris Inniss
30U 324 Peace on Earth
Chicago

http://www.pbase.com/nonsuch/30u_324_peace_on_earth_hull

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=-Oy_3nrAON8#t=0s



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Tom Schoenhofer

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Nov 8, 2011, 12:07:28 PM11/8/11
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 Hi Art
 
I remember your boat from when it was in Hindson's yard here in Ontrario. Weenin's bottom was quite bumpy. I suspect this is from the way the barrier coat was rolled on because a Nonsuch is usually very smooth. VC 17 is a very thin coat and is normally easily sanded off if the surface was smooth. (beware the dust from sanding VC17 is probably very toxic). So thin that scratches from 120grit sandpaper can be seen through the VC17. 
Try sanding a small section and you will see that you are just sanding the bumps, or high spots, off and you will have to sand quite a lot to get all of the VC17 off in the little valleys. 
You will end up with a smoother bottom and the thinnest parts of your barrier will be just as thin as they were before.
 
A good sander makes this job easier.
Tom
 
 

Bruce Anderson

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Nov 8, 2011, 6:21:08 PM11/8/11
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I'm currently in salt water in Nova Scotia with VC17 on the bottom. Before I left Toronto, I spoke with the Interlux rep at the boat show. According to him, Abrasion was the only way to get the stuff off - but - since I was going into COLD salt, as long as I doubled up on the application, I should be OK. After one year in salt (it was a chilly year), all seems fine so far. None of the Interlux products will adhere to VC17 (other than more VC17)

If you are going South, you definitely need to get it off.

On 11-11-08 12:24 PM, INA-Nonsuch-Di...@googlegroups.com wrote:

Group: http://groups.google.com/group/INA-Nonsuch-Discussion-Group/topics



    My boat has been moved from fresh to salt water. It has/had VC17 on
    the bottom. I was advised to sail the boat as is for a while and the
    salt water would remove most of the VC17. I could then remove the rest
    of it and apply a salt water antifouling paint.
     
    The time has now come to remove the rest of the VC17 but it is proving
    to be a struggle. I can sand it off, but it is slow work even with an
    electric sander. I estimate it will take me approximately 40-50 hours
    of hard work to clean the bottom of my 26. Power washing makes no
    impression on it at all. Is there a way other than abrasion? If not,
    is there an abrasive other than sandpaper that would work faster? I'm
    reluctant to try a grinder for fear of damaging the (epoxy?) barrier
    coat that's under the VC17.
     
    Art Digout
    Weenin 26C #39

     

    Jack Dokter

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    Nov 9, 2011, 9:12:21 AM11/9/11
    to ina-nonsuch-di...@googlegroups.com
    I recall using a CRC "On & Off" product that removes algie; scum line; water line stains without any damage to gelcoat. As I was using this stuff, the VC-17 was "accidentally" washing away.  It only took moments to remove a single layer where I knew it was thin, but how will it react to several layers of VC-17 could be another matter.  I suppose trying it out for $20 a bottle is worth a try.
    --
      Jack Dokter
    Nine Lives 1983 26C W21 #099
    Penetanguishene, Ont

    hugh.mc...@hydroone.com

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    Dec 2, 2011, 10:29:35 AM12/2/11
    to ina-nonsuch-di...@googlegroups.com

    This past spring , since I was taking the boat from Lake Huron to the Bahamas, I had to remove my VC 17 to apply Micron CSC which is good in both salt water and fresh, you might as well bite the bullet and get out the orbital sander with 80 grit or (60 grit if you plan on adding a layer of inter-protect) on my 33’ Nonsuch, it was about 40 hours of sanding to get down to the inter-protect, I then added another coat of inter-protect  2000 and 3 coats of  Micron CSC alternating red and black to ensure good coverage. I just pulled the boat in the Bahamas and I cleaned it with a hose (no pressure washing necessary) I have only broken through e first layer of paint in a couple of places, Micron CSC is a great paint that retains its effectiveness year after year even when you pull the boat out for storage, multiple layers are not a waste of money. It is a big job but worth the effort, professionals charge thousands for this work and it is basically mind numbing labour!

     

    Hugh McPherson

    (416) 433-8585

     


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