Deck Repair

[Howard]

I have a soft spot on my deck (see photo) that needs to be repaired. 

I plan to remove the top layer (about 7 inches square), replace the core, then refiberglass and finish it.
 

Before I start this project, I am looking for suggestions and tips. 

Thanks

Howard Whittaker

Stray Cat 

NS 26 #18

Waupoos, Ontario

[Tim in STL, NS26Ue White O'morn]

Be prepared for the 7" square to become 18" square, I'm not saying that it will happen, . . . but what if?

Tim in STL
White O’morn NS e26U #216
Harbor Point Yacht Club
West Alton, MO

[Thor Powell, Nonsuch 26, Victoria BC]

Before you go ripping the deck ... can you access the area in question from below?   Maybe drill a few small holes to see the extent?   I repaired an area near my bow pulpit from the anchor locker that way.  And it will be larger than you expect.  

[Tom Schoenhofer 26C#28 North Star Penetanguishene]

Hi Howard

I have 26 C #28

Unfortunately I bring bad news. Yes you may have a soft spot right there but I doubt very much that the water is limited to just that part of the core. 

First thing I would do is remove the water fill fitting and that electrical socket next to your tape patch and a couple of those bolts (not the ones on your mast collar). If water runs out then this entire area is wet. You will see the core at these holes no problem.  Don't cut new holes in your deck from the outside.

I have just dewatered my foredeck and yes it was wet from the hawser almost to the doghouse. 

Over the years I have been removing the deck hardware a few at a time, digging out the (wet) core, then backfilling with thickened epoxy and drilling the holes so it wont leak again. The builder did a really poor job making sure the deck fittings didn't leak, I guess on average 1 in 4 bolts had an incomplete seal. 

Two years ago I started on all the foredeck fittings. I left this area too long but I started with other leaks that were more obvious. Only thing I could not remove was the mast collar even with 2x6es and a hydraulic jack. Many years of trying- it didn't budge. The cleats looked OK but the feet of the pulpit were leaking at a couple bolts and the 8 bolts around the mast were all leaking. These bolt through angles under the deck and are structural. 

The deck is cored with plywood from the bow back to somewhere where your green tape is. From there back it is balsa.  You can see exactly where from the inside. The balsa core is thicker than the plywood so there is a step.  Might be right where your green tape is but all boats are slightly different so I'm just guessing. 

Some people have cut the entire deck open from the outside and replaced the core around the mast. If you are careful you could remove the whole deck here, repair the core, and glue the deck back on. If you start cutting holes where your tape is you will ruin the deck.

What I did is- cut holes in the inside with a hole saw to expose the core, let it dry for a while, remove all the fittings and reseal. Now after two years, I can see the core through the holes on the inside and it is dry. Bone dry. The plywood is not bad but needs to be soaked with thin epoxy. The balsa that was wet is no longer any good, you can easily break it with your finger. But that means I can dig it out, vacuum the dust and fill the void with thick epoxy. 

Tom

26C #28 

Penetang

  

 

[Ignotius Per Ignotium]

Howard,

I feel your pain.  When I bought Serenity I knew I had some deck leaking, and I'm working my way through it.  This spring we are taking off much of the cabin top to replace the deck around the mizzen mast (Serenity is a ketch).  A couple of years ago I had the foredeck done, and they ended up removing the entire deck from the bow to just before the forward hatch, a length of about six feet.  The entire core was fir ply, and the running joke is that we could just plant a garden, it was that rotted.  All replaced with coosa board. [1]  I suspect the same thing is going to have to happen around the mizzen.  Like Tom, I went through and re-sealed a bunch of the through holes (coosa doesn't rot, but I didn't want the water in the core to dribble back to where the ply starts), and have ended up doing that for various other fittings as I've been upgrading deck hardware.

Probably no real suggestions or tips, but I do wish you luck, and hope to see your blow-by-blow pictures.

Brian

SV Serenity

Nonsuch Nereus #003

Pax River MD

[1] https://coosacomposites.com/

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[Joe Valinoti]

Howard:  Is that a 30 amp receptacle in the photo??  I’ve never seen one mounted horizontally only vertically.

 

Joe Valinoti
S/V iL Gatto NS30U #221
Sea Harbour YC
Oriental, NC USA

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[Howard Whittaker]

Yes Joe it is. It came that way when I brought the boat. I don’t use shore power……. so I haven’t thought about it.

Howard Whittaker 

Stray Cat

NS 26 #18

Waupoos, Ontario

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[Joe Valinoti]

If you’re going to be tearing up the deck in that area, you may want to take the opportunity to remove it and fix the deck there also.  Just a thought.

 

Joe Valinoti
S/V iL Gatto NS30U #221
Sea Harbour YC
Oriental, NC USA

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[Julie & Lloyd on Rendezvous]

I second the thoughts of others - unless you have a hole within the green taped box, your leak is outside of that box and therefore, your box of bad decking is going to be bigger.  And a horizontal electrical connection seems crazy to me - both as a electrical hazard and as a tripping hazard.

lloyd herman

Rendezvous, 30U

Port Washington, NY

[Captain Greg]

Hi Howard,

Aside from the issue of the power inlet, I have some experience removing wet core and repairing - this was on a Niagara 35, built by Hinterhoeller in the same shop, using the same construction methods/materials as our Nonsuches. I can show you lots of documentary photos and share copious amounts of advice, but to keep it simple here: 

1) first determine the extent of the wet core. I drilled 1/4" holes at intervals (about 2 - 4" apart, no more than 1/2" deep) radiating from the determined soft spot(s). You can easily see the difference between wet balsa core and good dry core by what comes up with your drill bit (wet stuff is blackish and mushy). Before you start drilling, use a nylon headed mallet to 'sound' the deck and that will give you a good first notion of how extensive the damage is. If it is wet and likely delaminated, you will get a dull thud or reverberation instead of a crisp 'knock' sound. Once you get to dry core, stop drilling test holes. These 'dry' holes are easy to repair by filling with thickened epoxy and not too noticeable (you can touch up the blemishes with white epoxy paint or gel coat.) Mark out the affected area and record that with photos.

2) there are some finer points about cutting out the relevant pieces of the top fibreglass layer, in manageable sizes, cleaning up, re-coring and re-using the panel you cut out by laminating it back on and fairing it. I will be happy to share progress photos. But the point I wanted to make here is, I would not recommend using balsa if you have any extensive work to do. It can be difficult to work with. I recored much of my deck and coach roof in 2 - 3 sq ft sections, over several months, and the balsa changed size with humidity changes in my shed - so it would not lay down flat on its webbing. I spent a lot of time drying it out bit by bit. I suggest using a closed cell core like Divinycel foam instead. Easier to work with. I had a subsequent boat that needed about 30 sq ft recored and it was much easier with the Divinycel than the balsa. You will need core that is 1/2" thick.

3) I have never heard of a boat that sank due to a soft deck - no need to do this work in our limited northern sailing season.

Pic attached is of replaced core around a chainplate - a very rewarding first patch in my journey.

Cheers,

Greg Silver

Misty Cat 26C #121 (and No Rush, Niagara 35 #86)

St Peter's, Cape Breton,

Nova Scotia

[Michael Stangl]

Everyone, 

Attached is an example of a core from the deck of my NS 30U in the bow area. Drilled out the core today while working on the installation of a new windlass.

Thought the photo might be helpful in the discussion.

Mike 

Mariposa 

NS 30U

Hull 272

Dutch Harbor, RI

I’m 

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[Sprio]

You could also (re-)read Mark H's Nonsuch 36 Restoration Saga part 3. It's in the Fall 2024 Nonsuch Update.

mark h

n36#25

netherlands

Op woensdag 30 april 2025 om 19:03:09 UTC+2 schreef Captain Greg:

[Bob Neches (Me Gusta, Nonsuch 26U #233)]

All five parts of Mark's Nonsuch 36 Restoration Saga, including part 3 which addresses wet core repairs, can also be found on the www.Nonsuch.org webpages by signing on, clicking the MEMBERS tab, and selecting MEMBERS STORIES.

-- Bob

   Me Gusta

   Nonsuch e26U #233

[Brian @ SV Serenity]

Well, I finally got my estimate back.  Costs at this particular marina have...  What's worse than skyrocketed?  They have just been bought out for the second time in four years.

In 2021, it cost $750 to haul out my boat (and wash the bottom off, and put it on blocks and stands) and an equal cost to splash her.  That cost is now closer to $900.  (It was $800 last summer to haul, wash, and replace the zincs.)

In 2021, it cost $1200 to pull a mast, and Serenity has two.  That cost is now $2100.  It's a like cost to put them back in.

In 2021, it cost around $12,000 to remove all the deck fittings forward of the hatch, remove the top layer of fiberglass, remove all the rotten ply, replace it with Coosa, re-lay the fiberglass (they didn't save the old stuff and just re-mount it), and paint it.  Now that cost is $23,000, and they won't guarantee it won't be significantly more before they are done.  The estimate doesn't say that they will replace with a non-organic replacement and re-paint, but I assume... I have a meeting on Friday to go over the estimate.

That is... significantly more than I intend to pay for the work.  Any suggestions in the Chesapeake Bay area for decent work at a non-wallet-breaking price?

Brian

SV Serenity

Nonsuch Nereus #003

Pax River, MD

[Joe Valinoti]

Brian:  I believe that if you took the 4 days to bring it to one of our yards in Oriental, it would be one third of that cost plus you get a nice boat ride to a nice sailing town.

 

Joe Valinoti
S/V iL Gatto NS30U #221
Sea Harbour YC
Oriental, NC USA

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From: 'Brian @ SV Serenity' via INA Nonsuch Discussion Group

Sent: Wednesday, May 21, 2025 2:23 PM

To: INA Nonsuch Discussion Group

Subject: Re: Deck Repair

 

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[Ignotius Per Ignotium]

Thanks.  I bought her in New Bern and motored up the ICW, so it's a known trip.  Anyone in Oriental in particular you can recommend?  Any recent insight on ICW depths?

Also, I haven't talked to them in a couple of years, but Previous Owners were planning on retiring to Oriental or New Bern.  I could check back in with them.  :)

Brian

SV Serenity

Nonsuch Nereus #003

Pax River MD

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[Colle Bustin]

Hello,

I would give Salty Creek marine a call they have treated me well in the past and at a reasonable price. Work was top notch and done quickly. Easy to get to in Portsmouth, VA link below:

saltycreekmarine.com

(Very much a yard not a Marina)

Colle

S/V Hippō 30C #173

Port Washington, NY

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[Mark Nerenhausen]

I concur with Joe's comments.  I have had my 30U at Duck Creek Marina, just up the river from Oriental, and have been really happy with the service, the work, and the price.  The work also included repairing some soft spots in the deck and they did a  great job.  Highly recommend them.  Another benefit is that Pamilco is a great sailing area.  We have really enjoyed the region. 

Mark Nerenhausen

Cloud Hidden

30U. #370

New Bern, NC

[Joe Valinoti]

I use Zimmerman Marine in Oriental and have been quite happy with the work, people and price.  I would probably favor Duck Creek Marina in New Bern if it wasn’t 5 hours motoring.  However, Dave and Katie, the owners are good friends and close neighbors so I may be biased.

 

Joe Valinoti
S/V iL Gatto NS30U #221
Sea Harbour YC
Oriental, NC USA

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From: 'Ignotius Per Ignotium' via INA Nonsuch Discussion Group

Sent: Wednesday, May 21, 2025 3:54 PM

To: INA-Nonsuch-Di...@googlegroups.com

Subject: Re: Deck Repair

 

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[isotek ventura]

Hi Greg,

We have your sister boat, Nauti Girl N26C 120.

There's no softness in the foredeck around the mast yet....

I know after installing an anchor windlass 2 years ago.

The ply was dry as a bone. I am glad the 26's are not balsa cored in the hull area, avoiding this issue.

For reference to all, the 26's have thick 1.5" ply as the sandwich on the foredeck, not Balsa.

However, the P.O. left the mast up during the winters over a decade which created spider cracks in the gelcote around the mast. I used crack filling glue "Dr. Phillips"? to seal it off and then,  "overdecked" the area in a vinyl mat to shed water elsewhere.

I agree with the comment that this is not a show-stopping issue for the season. No boat sank from a soft deck.

If this becomes a compelling worry, plan for it in the off season, and enjoy life before the bus hits you.

Have a great summer out east.

Cheers,

Mike Read

Nauti Girl N26C

Bath Ont.