Refrigerator replacement

[Peter Grabow]

Good afternoon!

Another project....

The original Seafrost engine driven cold plate has been slowly failing. There is apparently a very slow leak. If the system was recharged at the beginning of the season it ran pretty well all season. This past season I was unable to use the boat for about 2 months mid season and the system lost most of it's charge. Recharging each season costs between $3-400. I believe it is time to replace the system.

It seems next to impossible, or lots of labor hours to determine where a leak may be.

I am considering switching to a 12V system so as not to have to run the engine to have a cold fridge. Many units seem to be fairly straightforward and easy enough to self install.

I would also consider adding a solar panel to keep the batteries charged as I do not have shore power and have been taking more extended trips.

1) Does anyone know the size (cubic feet)
of the refrigerator on the 30 Ultra?

2) recommendations for a 12V refrigerator unit? It seems Isotherm and Alder Barbor get solid reviews...

3) I was considering removing all of the old hardware... block, tubing, compressor. I am considering leaving the seawater condenser bottle so as not to mess with the raw water flow, and to have if additional cooling is needed in the future.
Or should I just leave it all alone and just remove the coldplate block and local tubing in the fridge and remove the compressor drive belt to the engine?

I was given an estimate of $3500 to have someone replace the current system. New York rates but much more than I would like to spend

Thought? Input?

Thank you!
Peter Grabow
S/V CAKEWALK III
30 Ultra 430 1987
Jersey City NJ

[R D Young]

Peter, I replaced the refrigeration on our 30U ~6 years ago after several years with the type of issues you are having now. I self installed a 12v Adler-Barbour Cold Machine. I don’t remember the model number but it was the one that permits the compressor unit to be either air or water cooled. It works fine with air cooling at our latitude of 45N. The installation was laborious but not technically difficult. The unit comes pre-charged and the only tricky part is making the final connections between the compressor and condenser. As I remember, I purchased the unit on sale from Defender and the all-in cost was in the neighborhood of $900. Good luck.

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David Young
Bay Cat, 30U #402
Traverse City / Suttons Bay, MI

[James Denmark]

I have a Cold Machine DCM-12 I believe on our 30 classic and it works great. It is however, far and away the most power hungry appliance on board. It is rated at 5.4A and I estimate it runs approximately 2/3 of the time so practically it is consuming about 84Ah/day so I would take a good look at your house battery capacity before making your final decision. I'm on shore power so can leave it on or at least pre-cool it before setting off on a trip. If I were on a hook, I doubt that solar could keep up with the refrigerator even in sunnier climes than NJ and would look more closely at a water/keel cooled holding plate system rather than the evaporative setup you get with the A/B or Isotherm.

[James Denmark]

Also, the compressor is quite noisy while its running, not enough to be a problem but enough to bug the crap out of you at night...

Jim.

C.A.T. 1982 Nonsuch 30C
Sausalito, CA

[peter farley]

[peter farley]

Pete I have an  Isotherm  unit on my boat if you want to look at it? I will be at Morgans Sunday.

Peter Farley

Knot in a Hurry 30U #328

Keyport NJ

On Tuesday, November 22, 2016 at 12:40:18 PM UTC-5, Peter Grabow wrote:

[mark fagelman, MD]

You can buy a recharge kit from sea frost very inexpensively and extra refrigerant at your local automotive store, you can recharge it yourself using the sight glass to determine when it is full.
Unless you have a very old system that uses freon.
What you have is the best of the best.
I would speak to sea frost re tracking down the leak. If your refrigerant hoses are old, that may be enough to be causing your leak .
Don't give up on it so quickly
mark fagelman

> On Nov 22, 2016, at 12:40 PM, Peter Grabow <pke...@gmail.com> wrote:
>

[johniscaro]

As a refrigeration mechanic (retired) most of the time I found leaks with soap and water solution in a spray bottle.  When I serviced belt driven units (really old) most of the leaks were on the shaft seal.  Check there first.  Do as Mark said,  buy your own refrigerant and do this during warm weather. Pressurize system with refrigerant, don't run unit and spray every joint, line and cold plate. Let sit and watch for bubbles.

John F.  Iscaro 

Commodore /Halloween Yacht Club 

SV Phunsuch / Nonsuch 26U #200 

Stamford CT 

C 203-627-2864 

[Mark Powers]

Peter,

Most electric refrigeration systems now use a Danfoss compressor. One exception is Norcold which uses a swing compressor built by Fujisawa. My understanding is that the swing compressor will not work at as great an angle of heel as the the rotary Danfoss. 

For smaller systems theDanfoss  BD35 is used and on larger systems the BD50 is used.  I think less than 5 cubic feet is considered small. Most manufactures will give a recommendation based on the size of the ice box. 

Your options are holding plate vs evaporator plate. Cool Blue uses a holding plate while Isotherm and most others use the evaporator plate. What i read suggest the evaporator plate tends to keep a more consistent temperature range in the fridge than the holding plate. Practical Sailor did a good report on the controller for the holding plate systems. A properly adjusted controller makes a big difference in efficiency on the holding plate systems.  I believe that both Nigel Calder and Kollmann think that the evaporator plate system is the way to go if you are installing a new system.

With a properly insulated ice box the evaporator plate systems should only run about 50% of the time in northern climates. The water cooled systems are better for warm climates. 

Here is a link to a good website on marine fridges:  http://www.kollmann-marine.com

I installed a Norcold ice box conversion unit in La Reina so it is relatively simple if time consuming. I picked the Norclod because I felt the compressor would fit under the galley sink better than the Danfoss compressors. If I had to do it over I would go wit ha system using a Danfoss compressor. I installed a computer fan with the system to help push the warm are out of the area under the sink. It helps reduce the amount of time the systems runs. With the ari cooled units it is better to have a lot of air circulation to help with the heat exchange. 

Mark Powers

La Reina 26C

Burrard Civic Marina

 Vancouver, B.C.

[Joe Valinoti]

The Adler Barber system on my 1984 boat is, I believe, original.  The only thing I’ve done was to replace the cooling fan.  It is, however, mounted behind the stove and does seem noisy when sleeping in a low ambient noise environment.  I can’t imagine having a unit under the galley sink only 2 feet from my head when sleeping.  All things considered, I’d rather have it placed much further away.

 

Joe Valinoti
S/V IL Gatto NS30U #221
Sea Harbour YC
Oriental, NC USA

~ ~ ~ ~ ~ (\_ ~ (\_ ~ (\_~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ (\_ ~ (\_ ~ (\_~ ~ ~ ~ ~

--

[Mike]

When I converted my 30U to electric propulsion any thought of fixing my failing engine driven refrigeration system became moot. I instead turned the icebox into dry storage and bought an Engel refridgerator and located it next to the port side bunk. This provides more convenient access to it's contents and also enlarges the bunk space. Plus it provides a convenient seat that allows me to use the cabin table as a chart table when underway. I recently purchased a second Engel unit using one for refrigeration and another as a freezer. Though I find I don't need use the freezer as much as I thought I would: WHAT WORKS! WHAT'S COOL!

WHAT WORKS! WHAT'S COOL! Bianka had a Frigoboat 500 engine driven compressor refrigeration system when I bought her. It worked well for a...

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[Peter Grabow]

Thank you Peter, but we will have to meet up another day. My weekend is fully booked with Thanksgiving get-togethers. No boat hours available.

Wishing everyone a Happy Thanksgiving!

Peter

[Peter Grabow]

And THANKS! to Mark John Joe and Mike for your additional input!

My concern about tracking down the leak was so much of the tubing is hidden I didn't know if I could access all of it to thoroughly check them, or the man hours that would be spent if I had my refrigerator guy do it.

I think I will wait until Spring to try and track the leak myself and not throw away what could be a perfectly good system, that has functioned well for almost 30 years, with the exception of a small leak.
I will start with the shaft seal and work forward.

Worse comes to worse I can always replace the system in the Spring if the current system is deemed finished...

Again, many thanks to everyone for your input!!

Peter Grabow
S/V CAKEWALK III

30U 430 1987
Jersey City NJ

[R D Young]

FYI. The compressor for the replacement Adler-Barbour I installed was placed in the same position as the old one, which, on our boat, was in the port side cockpit locker. That area is large enough to afford ample air for cooling and remote enough that there is very little noise during operation. Even on the highest setting, I am pretty sure it does not run for anywhere near 2/3 of the time but, because I can barely hear it, I could be wrong. I do know that, with our 270 amp hour house battery bank, we can spend 2-3 days off the grid and still start the engine off the house bank.

David Young

Bay Cat, 30U #402
Traverse City / Suttons Bay, MI

[Jim K]

Peter,
I had the same SeaFrost engine driven system as you have when I bought Simplicity (now Toyger) a Nonsuch 30 Ultra hull # 422.
It was originally installed when the boat was new but it hadn't been used in years it was not in working order when I bought the boat.
As part of the process of transforming Simplicity into Toyger I was going to try to bring it the original Seafrost unit back to life.
I called Cleave Horton (SeaFrost) who is located in the your neck of the woods (New Hamshire) and he was very helpful and I recommend you speaking with him.
You can see their products on line along with a price list.
He told me that a new BD 12V SeaFrost system would be cheaper than trying to rebuild my existing system. (Mine was in very bad shape)
I just checked my invoice and I paid $1792 for a new system and it works great.
I took measurements of the ice box and made a series of drawings using PowerPoint and am enclosing it in the form of a PDF file.
This should give you the info you wanted as far as size of the ice box.
I mounted a shelf in the stove cavity (up high, behind the stove under the outboard cabinet next to the ice box) and then mounted the compressor on it so the refrigerant line is short. I mounted the electronic thermostatic and speed controller just above it.
I went with the air cooled unit but they also have a water cooled unit which is more efficient if you live in warmer climate.
Since I live in a relatively temperate climate (Pacific Northwest, Washington State) the air cooled one works great for me.
Will follow this post with another and include photos of the installation.
As you can see from the inputs there are a variety of ways to go.
Wishing you the best on your project!

Jim Krzyzewski
Toyger N30U 422
Port Ludlow WA

On Tuesday, November 22, 2016 at 9:40:18 AM UTC-8, Peter Grabow wrote:

[Jim K]

Photos of my installation

Jim Krzyzewski
Toyger N30U 422
Port Ludlow WA

[Jim Cosgrove]

Jim,

In your photos, it looks like you have the ancillary ice cube trays for
the SeaFrost unit. I've considered getting those, but hesitated because
they're pricey. Do they work well?
Thanks,
Jim

Jim Cosgrove
FATE 30U #343
Galesville, MD

[James Krzyzewski]

They work great!
You have to let them defrost in the sink for run a little water over them to get them out but they are nice big ice cubes.
Start from one end and once the first one comes out the rest will follow.
I harvest a tray at the same time and put them in a zip sealed, take what I need and put the bag back at the bottom of the ice box.
Works great.
Highly recommend them.

Jim Krzyzewski
Toyger N30U 422
Port Ludlow WA

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[Jim Cosgrove]

Thanks for the recommendation and the tip! I think we'll be adding a set.

Jim Cosgrove
FATE 30U #343
Galesville, MD

[William Baxter]

Excellent documentation, Jim -- thank you for sharing!

Bill Baxter

Persistence NS 30 #507

Pentetang ON

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[Peter Grabow]

Hi Jim,

Thank you for the great input/documentation and following photos!

Very helpful!!

I will post a follow-up on how the refrigeration in S/V CAKEWALK III was fixed in the Spring...

Peter Grabow

S/V CAKEWALK III 30 Ultra 430 1987

Jersey City, NJ

[Debbie Powell]

I believe that the gas used in ac units contains a bit of oil that lubs the moving parts. If you have a leak that drained the system over a two month period you may be able to detect this oil at the siite of the leak. If you swabbed all connections with a very clean white cloth you may find traces of the oil.  Usually leaks are at a joint or a location where there is vibration.

Go at it slowly.  When not messing with my boat I mess with a 30+ year old Briish car.  I have fixed more on that car with patience than with my vast collection of tools....

Joe V can confirm if my oil idea has any merit.  I do not have refrigeration so can not comment on the practical aspects.

Cheers and Seasons Greetings

Thor

[Joe Valinoti]

I think that Thor’s Idea has merit.

 

Joe Valinoti
S/V IL Gatto NS30U #221
Sea Harbour YC
Oriental, NC USA

~ ~ ~ ~ ~ (\_ ~ (\_ ~ (\_~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ (\_ ~ (\_ ~ (\_~ ~ ~ ~ ~

 

From: Debbie Powell

Sent: Monday, December 12, 2016 4:59 PM

To: INA Nonsuch Discussion Group

Subject: Re: Refrigerator replacement

 

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[Ryan Gniazdowski]

     You can by the MP-134 refrigerant at Wal-Mart for $6.00 a can. The recharge fitting kit may cost you another $25. The whole system will only hold 2 cans. If it is an older unit that holds R-12 refrigerant, you can get a conversion kit from Sea frost cheaply. You can also, buy refrigerant with a leak fix similar to the Fixaflat for a tire. The leak fix is controversial but there is at least an 80% chance it will fix or slow the leak down. 

     The Seafrost system really has to be corroded and nasty to have it condemned. It should be repairable. Check out Youtube and the Seafrost manual. I hate to see you spend the money for a new unit. Sail on down for the Spring Chesapeake Rendezvous and I'll fix it for you. 

Ryan Gniazdowski

ZuZu's Petal

30U

Cambridge,MD.

     

[stonodo]

Hello, I just bought a 1984 Ultra 30 with one of these Sea Frost motor driven units which is not working. I also want to switch to a 12 volt system. My question is can I use the existing cold plate and can I install it in the same spot so that I can use the existing plumbing? I am wondering if it is more efficient to have it closer?

Best Regards,

Neil, Halifax Nova Scotia

[James Stanley]

Neil:

I have an Ultra that had a Seafrost unit. I replaced it with a Nova Kool system and have been very pleased.   If you want to contact me offline so we can chat, please email at jwsta...@gmail.com.  

James W. Stanley 

Annie 11-N30U No. 378 (1987)

Chester, Nova Scotia 

http://marinas.com/view/marina/9486 

[Don Crossley]

Hi,

I just bought a 1987 30U, it has a Nova Kool unit, seems to work well. Keeps food frozen inside the white box, I can make ice too. The components are installed on a hidden shelf behind the stove, except of course the white cooling box. See photos attached. The first photo is my actual unit, the others are a display unit at local marine store.

Don

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[gregor...@gmail.com]

Don,

This is a revisit from your post back in August 2020. I'm getting ready to purchase a Nova Kool system for my 30U and wonder if you would be kind enough to answer a few questions.

Which evaporator did you go with? My current plan is to use a LT4 but am considering a LT6.

Did you mount the evaporator horizontally with the door opening like a home refrigerator or vertically? Do you have any pictures of the evaporator after installation?

How is the noise level of the compressor when mounted behind the stove? My first instinct is to mount it on the shelf in the port side lazarette but the mounting behind the stove simplifies the installation somewhat.

Thank you,

Greg Doyal

30U #516 Challenge

Grosse Pointe, MI

[Joe Valinoti]

Greg:  My 30U came with the unit on a shelf behind the stove.  I don’t remember what kind it is but it’s been there for over 30 years and still working.  About 8 years ago, I replaced the stove/oven with a cooktop and installed A/C where the oven was.  I’ve enclosed photos.

 

Joe Valinoti
S/V iL Gatto NS30U #221

Sea Harbour YC
Oriental, NC USA

~~~~~(\_ ~(\_ ~(\_~~~~~~~~~~

 

From: gregor...@gmail.com

Sent: Monday, January 4, 2021 10:00 AM

To: INA Nonsuch Discussion Group

Subject: Re: Refrigerator replacement

 

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[Sprio]

I removed my oven with the intension to replace it with a new one. My girl will absolutely kill me if I'd suggest to get rid of her favorite toy in the galley. 

mark, n36#25, nld

[Mark Powers La Reina 26C Vancouver, B.C.]

Mark H,

 I am confused. Is the oven or the refrigerator the favoured toy with the penalty of death attached?

The pictures in the previous email are interesting and confusing as well. I can't tell who posted them but there appears to be two different refrigeration units, one a Nova Cool LT201, manufactured in September 2018 and another of indeterminate make and age.  Both seem to be installed on shelves. At least one under the stove top. Is there an explanation?

My brother has the fridge compressor mounted on a shelf behind the stove so could answer yo question on noise levels. We have a Norcold unit mounted under the galley sink. During the day you can barely hear it. Sometimes at night it is very quiet but at others times it is loud enough that we put ear plugs in. I have a decibel metre app on my iPad so will have to try to remember to to take a reading some time. The Norcold uses a swing type compressor (same as the Engel units)made by Fujisawa. They are suppose to be more efficient and quieter than the Dan Boss rotary compressors. according to a source (I think Practical Sailor) rotary compressors can safely operate at a greater angle of heel than the swing compressors. 

Mark

[Joe Weinbrecht]

Mark,

What Norcold unit did you put under the sink?

Joe

NS26C #156

SEA HORSE

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[Mark Powers La Reina 26C Vancouver, B.C.]

It is a model SCQT-4407 (40W) Dual Voltage Ice Box Conversion System.

Mark Powers

[Sprio]

You could have guessed this one, drinkebroeder. The fridge is my favourite piece of equipment but the oven is hers. Removing it will be the end of us as a couple, I'm pretty sure about this one. :-)

To add anything to this thread, I will try to make some sense for a change:

I also removed the Seafrost engine driven system together with an 80 to 100lb worth of weight, the blue 12v compressor device. I didn't recognize the brand but reading this thread it was probably an Adler. I have no idea if it worked or not but just for the weight of it, I discarded it.

So... yet to be installed (prep work is done) and yet to be tested in daily use, I chose a Waeco (Domestic) CU95 Coldmachine. It's based on a BD50 compressor. It will be cooling a WAECO VD-16 Circulating Air Evaporator.

The compressor unit will be placed under the Quarter berth.

mark, n36#25, nld

[Joe Weinbrecht]

Which has now been superceded by, the currently unavailable everywhere

NORCOLDER SCQT-4408F

Joe

NS26C #156

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[Mark Powers La Reina 26C Vancouver, B.C.]

I bought mine from Craig's list. A fellow bought it but never installed it.

Mark H

I could not guess. The refrigerator is the First Sea Lord's favourite galley toy, not because she likes beer (she doesn't except in the occasional shandy) but because there is no ice water sitting in the bottom of the ice box with lettuce floating around in it.  Her second favourite galley toy is the barbecue because I do the cooking when we use it. I was persuaded refrigeration would be a good idea after a long walk down the dock on a hot August day converted 20 pounds of ice into 10 pounds of ice and 10 pounds of water. 

I have explained that cold beer acts just like blocks of ice so I have claimed the space that used to be taken up with blocks of ice. Of course it is at the bottom so I have to do the dumpster diving when I want a cold beer.

Mark Powers

[Sprio]

Where I'm from, a "passive fridge", aka icebox is very rarely used. No gas station sells ice like they do in the US. No ice cube vending machines available, like in Florida or the Carib. The supermarket will sell ice but it'll be just as expensive as beer, believe it or not. So most yachts do have an actual fridge or no cooling capability at all.

Saying all this to say that I have no experience with ice boxes. I do wonder... aren't you supposed to put the ice on top of the food? Shouldn't your beers be in that location in stead of at the bottom of the box? 

mark, n36#25, nld

[Mark Powers La Reina 26C Vancouver, B.C.]

Mark H

I am not master of the ice box.

The would be put at the bottom so you did not have to pull it out each time you wanted to get something out of the ice box. The ice box master wants the items she is interested in at the top of the box. Stuff she has no interest in is only allowed limited space at the bottom. If I don't want it at the bottom of the ice box it is up to me to find another location on the boat. When the water is clear and cold, hanging the beer over the side in a mesh bag at about 15 ft below the surface is a reasonable option but you have to keep an eye out for diver air bubbles.

Mark Powers

[Ernie Abugov N22 - #56 "Moustaches" Toronto]

I believe that the photos in question are of the installation that Joe did on his boat, retiring his stove and filling in the space with both a refrigeration unit and an A/C. So, they are two different machines (I think).

Ernie A. in Toronto

[David Easley]

They're not.  A few of the pictures are Don Crossley's pictures that were tagging along when Joe Valinoti replied to Don's post.  You can tell by the serial number (298187).  Joe's pictures follow that, but it ends up looking like one big group from one person.  Joe's unit looks very much like the Adler Barbour Cold Machine that I have, although mine is not mounted behind the stove.

Dave Easley

1987 NS30U  BIG EASY

Port Charlotte, FL

[Joe Valinoti]

One option, at least in the US, is dry ice.  It’s available in the larger supermarkets and when I used it many years ago on my 1st cruising boat, it would last almost a week and enabled you to keep ice cream.  In regards to my current set up,

I have a cooktop, reefer (came with the boat & at least 30 years old, and the A/C unit all in one space after discarding the oven and installing a cooktop.

 

Joe Valinoti
S/V iL Gatto NS30U #221
Sea Harbour YC
Oriental, NC USA

~~~~~(\_ ~(\_ ~(\_~~~~~~~~~~

 

From: Mark Powers La Reina 26C Vancouver, B.C.

Sent: Wednesday, January 6, 2021 4:47 PM

To: INA Nonsuch Discussion Group

Subject: Re: Refrigerator replacement

 

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[gregor...@gmail.com]

Hi Joe,

Thank you for the pictures. A very tidy installation! I'm going to look again at mounting the compressor behind the stove before ordering my Nova Kool.

Greg

[Don Crossley]

Hi, I missed your message, just saw it now. The refrigeration unit was already installed when I bought the boat. I don't recall it being noisy, but haven't had it on since last summer. The fan is just a computer fan, so the gives you an idea how loud it is. I think the unit I have comes as a kit, LT201, so not sure what you mean by  LT4 or LT6?

If the evaporator is the white box, it is about 6"x10" at the open top end, it is mounted vertically, open at the top. I cut two squares off two standard ice cube trays, and they will then fit in bottom of white box. Ice cubes for cocktails, or whatever ails you!

Hope that helps.

Don

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[gregor...@gmail.com]

Hi Don,

Thank you for the reply. I've purchased a kit with the RT4 evaporator. To reach the shelf in the port lazarette on the 30U I need about 3' more than the 12' tube set that comes standard. Fortunately a have a very good friend who designs air conditioning systems for the military so he has all the knowledge and tools to add the extra length. My plan is to mount the RT4 evaporator horizontally on the ceiling of the icebox just inside of the outer edge of the opening. The only drawback is keeping my ice from thawing due to the RT4 having no door to trap the cold. My son is quite good with 3D printing and over the weekend we designed and started printing a custom door arrangement similar to what is offered on the RT6. I'll post some pictures and provide an update once I begin the installation.

Greg Doyal

NS30U #516 Challenge

Grosse Pointe, MI 

[Don Crossley]

Hi,

Went to my boat, took a photo of the cooler for you, see attached. My evaporator box is mounted vertically in forward inboard corner of the cooler. About 1" aft of forward cooler wall, and 6" below counter top. The other components are mounted on a shelf behind galley stove.

I could make ice in two shortened ice trays, plus kept frozen several pieces of meat brought from home freezer, and placed into evaporator box. Never tried to freeze fresh meat/fish, but sure it'd work fine. Kept fresh veggies in white tub on shelf you see in photo, when down lower, they froze too.

Mine was already installed when I bought the boat. I would think that installing components in cockpit locker, and trying to run copper tube 12' forward to the cooler will add great deal of difficulty. Plus, will the copper tube, being cold, create condensation along the way in humid summer air, and drip water where you don't want it?

Hope this helps.

Cheers,

Don

'87 NS30U

Vancouver, BC

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[gregor...@gmail.com]

Hi Don,

Thank you so much for the picture and information. I'm hoping to get started with the installation this weekend weather permitting. I'll post my progress as I go along.

Greg

[Bob Neches (Solar Wind, N26C #143)]

Clever and attractive! 

I'm curious, how 're you're handling access to the rest of the quarterberth area for storage now that these features are in place?

-- Bob

   Solar Wind
   Nonsuch 26C #143 (in transition to next Nonsuch)

On Friday, August 20, 2021 at 1:24:03 PM UTC-7 Bath Water wrote:

Hi All,

Our 1950's technology ice box finally gave up the ghost last week.

Like many of you, I started searching for how to fix it and what to replace.

Like many of you, I found the price was nutty for incumbent marine fridge replacements.

Living without a fridge in this hot and humid summer was not going to be tolerated for long by the CXO who shall remain nameless for now.....

So, with my ear smarting from a blue streak of , "get it done yesterday, and don't break the bank!" I conjured up a solution.

Within 48 hrs and Amazon's help, we have a solution for $600 CDN.

I does not solve every issue, however I do have my fridge space back and the old icebox is now a dry pantry.

The ingredients are simple:

Clear out the port quarter birth.......(our boat garage)

2X 60 can beverage coolers $249 each (they get down to 37F) (run .8amp) (one for beverages, one for food)

A $79 Solid wood IKEA table/counter top (sawed up)

$20 of industrial Velcro

Yup, $600 CDN

This arrangement took me 1 hr to execute, and can be removed without tools (velcro) if I ever need to get into the fuel tank.

There were no new holes drilled into the hull......just adhesive velcro.

So this may not be everyone's cup of tea, but is sure works on this 26C.

The bonus is a complimentary prep surface next to the stove.

We're using a cooler for the cocktail ice.........

Cheers,

Mike and Ashley Read

NS26C #120 Nauti Girl

Bath, Ont.

[Tim in STL]

That looks pretty good to me, what brand are those?  I guess that they are 120 volt AC coolers, right?

Tim in STL

White O’morn NS26U #216

Harbor Point Yacht Club

West Alton, MO

[Ernie Abugov N22 - #56 "Moustaches" Toronto]

When I lived aboard my Carter 30 1/2 tonner (a lifetime ago ...),  I stuck a small bar fridge right into the "hole" for the pilot berth on the starboard side. It ran on 110 volts and, since COVID began, it is now my "extra" fridge in our basement. It was a good cheap solution. Of course, under sail, it didn't run. Then, when the boat was plugged in, boy, did it ever run !! I had a couple of bungees to keep the door well and truly shut and the orientation of the fridge was such that the door opened to the front of the boat, not to the port or starboard side. Also, there was plenty of dead space for air to circulate behind the fridge if the thing heated up. (Do they actually heat up ??). Is there any ventilation at the back of these fridges ?? Should there be ?

This looks like a neat and nifty installation. I imagine that it is robustly built and there is no way that either of these fridges would (heaven forbid) shake loose. But, is there some way that both of these glass (slightly scary, that) doors stay securely locked underway and, especially, heeling over to starboard ??

On top of everything, this all looks nice, too.

Ernie A. in Toronto

[peter farley]

I have 200 watts of solar panels, In theory it should generate about 8 amps with full sun I am lucky to get 5 amps max.

I have two group 31 AGM batteries for the house bank.

I am on the mooring all season.

I can run the isotherm frig for about 24 hours on the batteries without a problem. Mine is water cooled goes between 3 and 4 amps.

It uses by far the most electricity of anything on the boat.

What I did was add a low voltage cutoff to the frig circuit so I don't have to keep monitoring the batteries.

When my house bank gets to 12.2 volts it disconnects the frig. When the solar charges the batteries back up or motor starts it reconnects it.

m-LVD Low Voltage Disconnect - Blue Sea Systems

I would  recommend this as part of the new system.

Peter Farley

Knot in a Hurry 30U #328

Keyport NJ

[Joe Weinbrecht]

Pete Farley,

Thanks for the heads up on the disconnect ($84.) at Defender. I just installed an Isotherm, insulated the icebox, and had it down to 36 degrees the other night.  Also included the 120V option, but the disconnect is a great idea for when out sailing, where did you connect it in your system?

Joe

NS26C #156

SEA HORSE

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/INA-Nonsuch-Discussion-Group/6697aa08-8f18-4e5a-a5fe-b87dc0a1b5b7n%40googlegroups.com.

[Island_Moose]

If your fridge uses an isotherm controller (most of the Danfoss compressors do), you don't need to invest in a low voltage disconnect.  Just wire a 50 cent resistor into the circuit as indicated on this manual.  Choose the voltage cut-out from the chart and select a resistor.

John

NS30U#400

Wireless

Tauranga, NZ

[peter farley]

Problem with that is it will not allow the cutoff to go above 11.3 volts as in the chart you attached. 

That was too low for me, I wanted mine to drop off sooner.

This way I can still use everything else and just loose the frig for awhile. 

Gives my solar panels a chance to catch up while still using the other house stuff.

I just placed it between the circuit breaker and the hot lead for the compressor. 

I also liked the fact it had an override and alarm on it.

Peter Farley

Knot in a Hurry 30U #328

Keyport NJ