Winterisation : Westerbeke 27 engine

[Shirley Cheung, Nonsuch 30C, Toronto, Ontario]

Hello all,

This coming season will be my first ever winterisation!

My engine is Westerbeke 27 1983. Fresh cooling system (I see a plastic coolant box attached to my engine).

I saw many videos of taking off the raw water intake hose (close the seacock first , of course), attach a garden house to this intake hose and run the anti freeze through the entire engine by turning the engine on. As soon as the pink antifreeze runs out the exhaust, we know the antifreeze has run through the engine...but that is the raw water side only....

How about the fresh water side? Should I drain the coolant and add the fresh "anti freeze coolant" to the plastic coolant box?

Obviously, I have problem locating the coolant drain plugs..

Any advice?

Thanks,

Shirley

[Brian]



Shirley, there is a screw on cap ( look at west marine or defender for info) for your raw water strainer that has a hose fitting so you don’t have to remove the intake hose from your seacock. (Not an easy task). You attach a short piece of hose with a female fitting to the cap and put the hose onto a bucket filled two gallons of pink antifreeze or one gallon then another as it runs down. The fresh water system should already be winterized. Just add more as needed in the plastic expansion bottle.

Brian

On Sep 15, 2025, at 7:07 PM, Shirley Cheung, Nonsuch 30C, Toronto, Ontario <shirley...@gmail.com> wrote:



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[Shirley Cheung]

Hi Brian ,

Thanks for the tip . I saw a screw on the raw water strainer. Maybe I use that fitting for the hose and run the antifreeze there 

For the coolant, I bought a hydrometer to measure the antifreeze concentration in the coolant. So you mean if the measurement is at the correct level (our area can get down to -30 degree celcius Toronto Canada), I do not need to drain all the coolant out and refill in the coolant expansion box ?

Thanks

Shirley 

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[Brian]

Shirley,

The cap on the raw water strainer that you clean out the bowl is replaced with this cap with a garden hose male fitting then the garden hose with the female fitting is attaches and put in a bucket with the pink stuff. 2 gallons should winterize the raw water side of your W27. It does for mine anyway. That expansion box is the fresh water side and should always be winterized. Every few years it may need to be drained and flushed. Then it needs to be refilled with the correct ratio of water to antifreeze. But the seasonal raw water antifreeze ( different than the fresh water enclosed system) needs to be done each fall. Usually -30 deg. F in New England. Just pump it thru with the raw water pump with the motor running until pink stuff comes out the exhaust then kill the engine and don’t restart until spring.

Brian

On Sep 15, 2025, at 8:47 PM, Shirley Cheung <shirley...@gmail.com> wrote:



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[Joe Valinoti]

Shirley:  These photos show my set up.  Install a TEE fitting into the system as shown with a valve and garden hose fitting.  Close seacock and open flush valve.  Take a 5 gallon bucket and fit a garden hose bib to it at the bottom.  Connect a hose from bucket to flush valve.  Open flush valve and run fresh water through engine.  Then add antifreeze and run that through engine and close flush valve.  Done!!  This also gives you a back up bilge pump in emergencies by connecting a hose to the flush valve and place other end in bilge after closing seacock.

 

Joe Valinoti
S/V iL Gatto NS30U #221
Sea Harbour YC
Oriental, NC USA

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[JimRIgmail]

Another popular option is to simply close the raw water valve, unscrew the cover to the raw water filter, start the engine, and pour the fresh water into the raw water filter.  

Once it’s properly flushed, pour two gallons of anti freeze into the raw water filter, screw the cap back on, and open the raw water valve. 

Best,

Jim Falcon

Ballybay NS 30U # 357

Warren, RI

On Sep 16, 2025, at 2:43 PM, Joe Valinoti <joes...@gmail.com> wrote:



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<NS30U FlushValve001.jpg>

<NS30U Flushvalve002.jpg>

[Brian]

Joe V

I have always admired your setup off the back of your strainer but I settled for just spinning off the Groco cap and adding the cap with the hose fitting when needed. Not every one has your skills. Come to think of it the cap could drain the bilge in no time as well if the need presented itself.

Just sayin ;-)

Brian Cayer

Spirit~Wind

N30U 419

Westbrook, CT

On Sep 16, 2025, at 2:43 PM, Joe Valinoti <joes...@gmail.com> wrote:



[Don Crossley]

Shirley,

In case you didn't know, assuming you have a Groco sea strainer after your raw water intake, there is a fitting you can buy that screws in to the top of the Groco with a garden hose fitting. This allows you to attach a hose directly to the system. You can make a short hose and put the other end in a 5 gallon pail suck in whatever you want into the engine cooling system. While I'm sure Joe's works well, this is simpler and requires no plumbing and pipe fitting skills. Although the adapter probably costs a bit more, you can easily install it your self. Here's an example, although I think you can get it on Amazon too. You'll need to check the Groco model number to get correct size.

https://defender.ca/en_ca/trac-ecological-strainer-flushcap-adapter?gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22287306862&gclid=CjwKCAjwlaTGBhANEiwAoRgXBfG_uknqswWa4yiMlJ9vU2beyfKeedgWhD3jYnELHiqcuJDhnULtqRoChGAQAvD_BwE#615=31092

Cheers,

Don

[Joe Valinoti]

I’ve never seen one of those, Brian.  Do you have a link??  Also, do all Nonsuches have Groco strainers??

 

Joe Valinoti
S/V iL Gatto NS30U #221
Sea Harbour YC
Oriental, NC USA

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[Joe Valinoti]

If I had one of those, I’d tie it to the strainer body so I don’t have to hunt it up.  Mine may be more work to install initially, but probably a whole lot cheaper and obtainable at any hardware store.

 

Joe Valinoti
S/V iL Gatto NS30U #221
Sea Harbour YC
Oriental, NC USA

~~~~~(\_ ~(\_ ~(\_~~~~~~~~~~

From: Don Crossley

Sent: Tuesday, September 16, 2025 5:41 PM

To: INA Nonsuch Discussion Group

Subject: Re: Winterisation : Westerbeke 27 engine

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[Ed Strazzini]

My 1989 N30 had a Groco and my 1989 N33 does now too.  

I’ve been successful with the take the top off with the engine running solution, then quickly close the inlet valve, add some fresh water to flush then follow quickly with a couple of gallons of pink stuff till exhaust water runs pink.

Ed Strazzini 

Pelican, N33#36

Deltaville, VA

Sent from my iPad

On Sep 16, 2025, at 19:43, Joe Valinoti <joes...@gmail.com> wrote:



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[Shirley Cheung, Nonsuch 30C, Toronto, Ontario]

Thanks. That seems easier.:)

[Shirley Cheung, Nonsuch 30C, Toronto, Ontario]

Thanks! I will take a photo of my raw water strainer tomorrow and see where the male fitting is....to attach to the female fitting of the garden hose.

[Julie & Lloyd on Rendezvous]

I have never understood the buy bunch of different stuff to flush the engine - I close the thru-hull, stuff a hose into the strainer (I have a 5' or so length of hose I garbage picked with a valve someone left under my boat to control flow), turn  on the water and fire up the engine.  Run for ten minutes or so and shut it all down.  Open two gallons of antifreeze, drain the strainer and then fill it with antifreeze and fire up the engine and pour in the balance of the two gallons as fast as the engine will take it.  Shut down the engine, clean up and you are done.  One short hose to put away.

lloyd herman

Rendezvous, 30U

Port Washington, NY

[Rob Cohen "Soave" NS33 Westport, CT]

Hi All, 

I'm confused by parts of this tread.  In her original post, Shirley mention a "plastic coolant box" which sounds like a coolant reservoir.  This is part of a closed loop.  Periodically you do drain, flush, and refill the closed system. ( Just like you would for an auto. ). Probably not every year.  The coolant in the loop is usually yellow/green in color.... you would use a hydrometer to measure specific gravity to verify the mixture is appropriate for your climate.

Most of the tread describes how to winterize a marine diesel engine which uses raw seawater ( or lake water) to sink engine heat ( via a heat exchanger)  from the engine coolant loop.  The raw water system gets flushed and filled with antifreeze usually red in color.  The same less toxic stuff you use in the water system.

For folks that leave their boats in the water in the winter, this is a great thread.  For folks that prefer to winter on the hard, there is a caveat.

The yard may prefer to winterize the engine for you.  The reasons are:

1. It's easy money.
2. They want to bring your boat to the lift with its own power.... but if its already winterized they can't without pumping out the red antifreeze.
3. They definitely don't want to have to call you when the boat is out to remind you to winterize it.
4. It's bad for everyone if the a winter freeze causes a leak because you wouldn't know till the boat is splashed.

I've let the yards do the engine winterization for the past few years, but I handle all the non-engine winterization myself.

What do others do ?

Rob

s/v SOAVE

NS33 #009

Cedar Point YC

Westport, CT

[Brian]

Rob

That’s a good explanation of the winterization process. The difference between the enclose engine coolant, and and the seawater or lake water cooling closed system should be understood by anyone doing winterization. The close system should always be winterized even in the boating season the seawater system at my yard at my yard. They expect to be done before they haul the boat so people don’t try to do it on hard they hip the boat to the lift and don’t use the engine for power. but that’s the process at pilots point Marina. The same place where you bought Soave.

It seems there are many different ways to winterize the seawater system, but I prefer using the cap. I think it’s easier and not as messy.

.

Brian Cayer

Spirit~Wind

N30U 419

Westbrook, CT

On Sep 17, 2025, at 1:13 PM, Rob Cohen "Soave" NS33 Westport, CT <rob....@gmail.com> wrote:

Hi All, 

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[Rob Cohen]

Hi Brian,

Yes, now that you mention it, I remember the boat they used at Pilots Point to shuttle boats to and from the lift.  I remember how precisely they could maneuver.  I guess they had lots of practice.

I keep Soave at a club that doesn't have a large enough hoist on site, so I bring Soave to Norwalk Cove Marina for winter storage.  

I guess we have about a month to go and 2025 will be a wrap.  Time to start making my winter project list.

Smooth Sailing, 

Rob...

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[Ward Woodruff]

Can someone prove me wrong?

My process for the Beta 35 in my N33 and the 370 HP Yanmar in my powerboat is:

Run the boat 15 miles up the Connecticut River to my boatyard. This provides the freshwater flush. 

Drain the water from the raw water/seawater side: open raw water pump, and disconnect hoses to drain. Leave the raw water/Seawater side dry for the winter. 

No need to buy the pink stuff. 

I do a similar process (drain and blowout) on the domestic water system. 

Ward Woodruff

N33 #8 Margery

Niantic, CT

On Sep 17, 2025, at 3:36 PM, Rob Cohen <rob....@gmail.com> wrote:



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[Rob Cohen "Soave" NS33 Westport, CT]

Hi Ward,

I'm still in my monkey-see-monkey-do phase of my marine maintenance training.  Hearing how others winterize is helpful.

The two approaches ( flood with antifreeze VS drain ) highlight a trend in maintenance.  Reduce labor.  Replace components rather than parts.  Reduce skill required to perform maintenance. 

Seems to me both approaches work if done properly, but ( I think ) subtleties may make one approach more attractive depending on the individual.

• Opening the pump requires time, knowledge, and some continuity between decommissioning and commissioning.  ( where'd I stash the parts ? ) 
• Pulling the hoses gets tricky if they are old and hard or the clamps are corroded. ( if you touch them every year you don't let them get that way )
• Blowing out the lines assumes you have a portable compressor or an air tank to take aboard.
• Some knowledge of the system is helpful ( filters or seals that shouldn't go dry ? )
• Any beneficial anti-corrosion or cleansing properties in the pink stuff ? 

Soave is the first boat I've had that has a diesel or plumbing, but it seems similar to winterizing a summer cabin...  maybe I can draw on past experience ?  

My experience with winterizing other stuff is that draining back is the preferred method, but flooding with antifreeze is sometimes the easier method. 

I've enjoyed learning by doing on Soave, and will readily admit to making some mistakes.  Soave has a salt water foot pump for the galley sink that I thought would drain back once on the hard. Last winter the filter housing cracked because saltwater was airlocked in the filter.  The only reason I noticed it was it was next to the keel bolts that I inspected over the winter.... would have been a mess if the boat was splashed with the cracked filter housing.  I probably should have actuated the pump a couple times to break the airlock.  

I may give your approach a try this season this season.... except the part about motoring up the Connecticut River... a garden hose flush will have to do.

Cheers, Rob....

s/v SOAVE

NS33 #009

Cedar Point YC

Westport, CT

[Ward Woodruff]

I am not aware of seals that should not go dry.  I welcome comments from anyone with knowledge on that. 

The “pink stuff” is watered down propylene glycol with a corrosion inhibitor added. The propylene glycol by itself mixed with water is corrosive. 

I was at the hardware store yesterday and there was a big display of “pink stuff” at the entry.  It was labeled as burst proof to -50 F. 

Here is what I understand burst proof means.  If the system contains the exact concentration as in the jug from the store, at -50F there will be a slush of ice in the system. The slush at that concentration will be able to move if there is room in the system.  It is unlikely that our boats will experience -50F so, some additional water laying in the system could be mixed in. That additional water would raise the burst proof temperature of the system.  

One could measure the concentration of the solution in the system with a hydrometer.  There is likely to be some error with that as there may be areas of differing concentration due to pockets of water not thoroughly mixing. 

Ward Woodruff

N33 #8 Margery

Niantic Bay, CT

On Sep 17, 2025, at 5:45 PM, Rob Cohen "Soave" NS33 Westport, CT <rob....@gmail.com> wrote:

Hi Ward,

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[Shirley Cheung]

I am also thinking of having a professional to do the engine winterisation. I can do the non-engine winterisation part, like the head and the fresh water tank.

Not sure what others do.

Thanks,

Shirley

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[Dorothy Salusbury]

Hi Shirley,

I have always used a professional to winterize my boat but this year am hoping to at least try it. The Rigging Shoppe in Scarborough is offering a course on this on Sunday morning so I’ll see if this is something I can do.

Dorothy Salusbury

Cathartic Nonsuch 30

Ashbridge’s Bay Yacht Club

Toronto

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From: ina-nonsuch-di...@googlegroups.com <ina-nonsuch-di...@googlegroups.com> on behalf of Shirley Cheung <shirley...@gmail.com>
Sent: Wednesday, September 17, 2025 23:01
To: INA-Nonsuch-Di...@googlegroups.com <INA-Nonsuch-Di...@googlegroups.com>

Subject: Re: Winterisation : Westerbeke 27 engine

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[Joe Valinoti]

Do not forget that anything that normally holds water can freeze.  That includes – anchor washdown systems, cockpit showers, manual and electric bilge pumps, reefer drains, shower sumps, etc.  Fortunately, as long as my boat’s in the water, I don’t have to do anything unless there is an abnormal deep freeze.

PS – I like the idea about motoring up a freshwater river!!

 

Joe Valinoti
S/V iL Gatto NS30U #221
Sea Harbour YC
Oriental, NC USA

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[Shirley Cheung]

Hi Dorothy

May I know how much you pay to have a professional to winterise your engine ? I am still debating if I hire

Thanks

Shirley 

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[Joe Valinoti]

I think that Dorothy has the right idea and will learn an awful lot more about her boat.

 

Joe Valinoti
S/V iL Gatto NS30U #221
Sea Harbour YC
Oriental, NC USA

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[Rob Cohen "Soave" NS33 Westport, CT]

Shirley,

As I alluded to in an earlier post, winterization is often over complicated by owners and boatyards.  Prices and procedures vary.

The yard I plan to use this winter changes $199 for winterization.  If they can't use your motor to move the boat to the lift, they charge $150 to tow the boat to the lift.  

My assessment is the "value" of a winterization is about $50 which about what I assess my boat tinker hourly rate to me.  

I poured about 150 hours into Soave's keel joint refresh and probably 80 hours into stripping and rough fairing her bottom last winter.  So there are plenty of DIY things to do, no need to do anything you are unsure about.

Most folks just suckup and pay the $199 for winterization.... which by coincidence is the hourly service rate for all services at the marina.

I think a variation of Wards process could be accomplished on the hard,  by flushing with a garden hose and draining. Ward's method has some peripheral benefits because it encourages you to inspect parts of you engine that may otherwise ignore ( like your impeller ). 

Winter storage is $89.75 /ft.  Soave ( NS33 ) runs $2962.  ( HERE ) is a link to the winter storage agreement.

I hope others storing boats on LIS in Fairfield County this winter will let me know if they pay significantly less.

Rob Cohen

[Ron Schryver]

That's the way I've been doing it for 38 years Jim. 

To add an additional point to this conversation, I've also been using a mix of 70/30 automotive coolant instead of the pink stuff. That way if the coolant encounters any water along the way in the engine and elsewhere the freeze protection is actually enhanced.

I catch this coolant at the exhaust and use it in the bilge pumps. I catch this and test it with a hydrometer to make sure the mix is still OK. If not I add coolant to get back to 70/30.

This is then used to antifreeze the head which gets pumped out in the spring. Prior to launch fresh water is run through the raw water filter and the prior captive coolant in the engine is caught and saved for next fall.

The only wasted coolant is the bit used for the head.

Ron

Ron & Diane Schryver

"Alpha Waves" 1987 NS30U #393

Georgian Bay Midland ON

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[Ward Woodruff]

Make sure not to use automotive coolant in your domestic water system. The ethylene glycol automotive coolant is toxic. 

The pink stuff sold for winterization is propylene glycol. Propylene glycol is an additive in some consumer products. It is much less toxic than the auto coolant. 

Ward Woodruff

413-847-0620 cell

On Sep 18, 2025, at 2:20 PM, Ron Schryver <ron.sc...@gmail.com> wrote:



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