Freightliner Fuse Box

[Jkobe Peoples]

Thishas to do with the cigarette lighter fuse. The cigarette lighter has gone out thats on the dash on the drivers side. I do know its the fuse. I have seen post saying look here or here. I have looked in the fuse box in the glove box and under the hood on the fire wall and haven't found it yet. Does anyone know the EXACT spot or location that fuse would be on a 2014 freightliner cascadia?

Thanx for all the help. I've been in the fuse box in the glove box many times. For some reason can't find the cigarette lighter fuse. Maybe it's under another name. I'll go back and look again. Once again. Thank you.

Finally found the fuse. It was (F7) in the glove box. On the glove box schematic it's wrote up as (Dash Pwr RCPT 2, Bat) this is the cigarette lighter plug on the dash. I'm glad that's over with. Thanx to all.

Since there's no such thing as a "cigarette lighter" anymore (I don't even think it's an OPTION) - Dash Power Receptacle is what it's going to be labeled. BAT means it's wired directly to the battery - and not through a relay.

There are TWO FUSES labeled that way (1 & 2). They are both 15 Amps. Replace them with the same amperage rating. If they keep blowing, you are overloading the circuit. If you replace it with a higher amperage fuse, you may burn up the wires, or burn down the truck (worse case scenario - more then 22% of highway fires are electrical in origin).

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After a couple of weeks of inactivity, I thought it best to fire up the engine on my 2004 Itasca Horizon (Freightliner Chassis/Cummins 350HP diesel) although it fired right up, I realized none of the normal buzzers and lights preceded me.....low and behold every gauge and idiot light was flatlined! Checked the instrument cluster fuses both were fine. Had power to the fuse and grounded properly. Back lights work and turn signal lights work, other than that the dash is dead.......help!

FMCA #436820

Mark and Kathy

Rochester MN

What you have is a bad solenoid. It can be found with your fuse panel. With the key on take a test light ground it and check for 12 volt power at the solenoid. There should be two cables on the solenoid. You should have 12 volts on both sides of the solenoid if not then your solenoid is defective.

More great feedback Rich. Thank you. There is no chase pattern or "dancing". I have it into a Motorhome shop today. Their initial thoughts are defective panel. It starts, it runs, the fuses are good and there is power and everything grounded. One question, Wolfe 10 you mentioned "common issue with this chassis" so I have to ask.....shouldn't there be a common resolution?

Rich, I would agree regarding "farming out" electrical work. The Winnebago dealer I purchased this coach from primarily deals in travel trailers 5th wheels and some class c and gas powered class A's. They kept it a week and said, it's out of our league, take it to Frieghtliner..........". The place I took it is certified Freightliner....but they had no instant answers. I'll share what the ultimate resolution is.

Things are not progressing well. It appears at this point to be a control module, but even that is proving to be a challenge to get? My profile reads "I travel with pets" at this rate, I may not travel at all.

I should have specific answers this time tomorrow as the shop I am using have in fact been working with Freightliner to resolve this issue. They have a VDC box inbound tomorrow AM and hope to have everything back up tomorrow afternoon. Rich, I wish I had you along as I think you could have done some coaching on this! I did consider purchasing (and still might) a Scan Gauge as a very short term alternative until this could be resolved but I don't see where air pressure reads out on most systems, leaving me and other drivers on the road vulnerable to potential air brake failure and that's just not an option. Maybe I'm wrong and there is an output for air pressure?

One could tap into the air lines and connect direct reading air gauges. Might not look pretty, but with air gauges and a Scan Gauge one could keep moving until the needed items are on hand for repairs.

Sad to report the new VDC box did nothing. I'll have to follow up with a more technical description, however upon the VDC failure they were able to bypass some systems and fire up the bank of idiot lights and speedometer. They are going to try and pull an ECM from a similar Winnebago model on the lot and use that one to see if it will solve the riddle, if not at least we can make our trip to the North Shore/Arrowhead region of MN on Saturday and then back to the shop upon return. They have been in contact with Freightliner, but I did pass on Rich's questions/suggestions and "Markstella"s location of the ECM, so stick with me folks.....mystery not solved yet.

No change with the new VDC? The fact that they could get some of the display working, kind of makes it look like a DATA link issue from the ECM. So without that information. Thinking your fuel gauge, Voltage and temperature gauges are missing.

Rich, my tech is eating up what you have shared with me, but his biggest challenge at this point seems to be finding the ECM? In an earlier reply from Markstella, he commented that it was located under the bed, however, my tech commented via phone just now that if it is, it's hiding? Anyone have any thoughts?

Everything you stated above regarding what I do and do not have is accurate so far. Problem is I am electro -techno challenged and am (I'm sure) losing something in translation, so I am literally sharing verbatim what you are writing. I am thinking we have time at this point, unless in the next three hours this whole issue is resolved as I will be picking the coach up for our trip with limited dash functions until I return late next week.

Good grief, I believe I am cursed, picked up the jury rigged coach so we could pack up, cool down the fridge and head out in the AM,and now no power to the fridge. I read the forum regarding Norcold high temp sensor and resetting it with a strong magnet. Tried that to no avail. I bypassed the sensor and the fridge does work. I suppose there's no quick replacement to that issue? You know, with the instrument cluster issue, and now this.....does anyone suppose the coach took an indirect lightning strike? We've had plenty of those over the last month?

Herman, I like your sense of humor. As a motorhome owner it is not if something will go wrong but when. I suppose I was due as I have literally had no coach failures (human yes, mechanical no) up until this one.

A couple weeks ago my 7 way connector on the trailer broke (old plastic just cracked) and all the wires pulled out. I was able to get a replacement and connected everything up and it looked to be working correctly - but I was just checking everything with the truck not fully connected - only the plug in - hitch not sitting on ball.

On the way home, once the sun went down, we realized the running lights where not working. We checked the connector (since we had just replaced it) and everything looked good. Used a multimeter to check and everything seemed good.

Checked the truck and found a blown fuse for the running lights. Replaced fuse. Running lights working again with trailer connected, but not sitting on hitch. Once lowered down to hitch, fuse blows again. I did notice we had an error message on brake controller when only connected via wiring but message went away when connected fully through hitch.

Where should I start looking? I assume it is a grounding issue, but all the wiring is ran through the trailer frame so I am not sure where to look there. Anyone seen this and know where they found the issue? Thanks for the help!

If you are blowing the fuse in the truck, it is likely the trailer that is the problem. I have had this issue as well. Anytime an individual running light is not working correctly it can blow a fuse in the truck. They key to success with my trailer is making sure every single running light is functioning correctly. This meant replacing almost all the running lights with new ones. You can also replace the wiring harness, but that is much more difficult.

Climb under the trailer and check all the wires by hand. You are looking for damaged wires. The wire running under the floorboards on my trailer had actually gotten caught in the metal support beams that hold the floor. It was pinched so tightly I cut out that entire wire and ran a new one. This time with tip ties holding it safely away from any entanglement.

These are butt connectors, which are an order of magnitude better. The best butt connector types are watertight, with heat shrink tubing covering the otherwise open ends. They are no more expensive than Scotch connectors, but using Scotch connectors saves assembly time for the manufacturer. That is why so many horse and utility trailer makers use them.

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