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When I started growing black raspberries in my shady front yard, I hoped they would survive, but I had my doubts. Luckily, my little black raspberry patch showed me it would thrive, as long as I trained and pruned them correctly and consistently each year.
In the second year after planting, you should get a small harvest in the late spring/early summer. After fruiting, set your black raspberry plants up for a smooth ride through winter and a successful future harvest with an early fall pruning.
First, head (pinch, tip, or cut off) each cane at a desired height in the early fall, anywhere between 28 and 48 inches. The ideal height for bigger harvests is 28 to 30 inches, but you might like the canes a little taller in your edible landscape. Be consistent across the row.
I have a hypothesis that the shorter the canes are, the fewer berries you would lose to birds, because predators such as cats are a higher risk to them closer to the ground. Experiment with the height for yourself and let me know what you find out!
To do the following early spring pruning steps, wait until the plants are beginning to create buds. Do not wait until the plant is leafing out, since this could stunt growth. It is difficult to see in the picture below, but the canes have buds on them, no leaves.
Canes that produced berries in the previous year will be dead, so cut them back to the ground. Meanwhile, other canes will have been damaged by the cold and will be brown and brittle. Cut all dead canes off as close to the ground as possible.
After that, the black raspberry plants will look dramatic and bare. However, have faith that it will result in better yields. You can see in the picture below that the lateral branches are shorter after pruning, and include about 8-10 buds.
Again, you may wish to LOOSELY tie the canes in each hill to their coordinating post to keep everything tidy and out of walkways. This is optional. Notice in the picture above our X-post solution for support.
However, you bring up an important point, especially for those who are growing their black raspberries in bare soil. Adding compost is important since nutrients will wash away, and mulching will help. I would consider mulching with a living mulch such as chives or comfrey, planting them around and in between the hills. See my post about living mulches to read more.
Hello,
I am thrilled to have found your post! I am a novice gardener and this is my very first attempt at raspberries. I have planted a SINGLE potted plant (about 1 gallon size) of the BLACK variety in May of this year. It has quadrupled in size! I will explain, the best that I can, its current condition. Firstly, it was planted in rich, organic soil and mulched. It is planted NW facing, closer to one end of an overhead arch type trellis. As the canes have grown, I have used garden twine running low (about 2 ft. high) between each end of arch. This is roughly a 5 ft. width. I am randomly tucking the wild, crazy canes wherever I can into and along either the arch itself or the twine that runs through it. Just wanting to get them off of the ground the best that I am able.
Hi there, Thank you for your posting. I am pinning it for sure! I moved to my property last spring, and was happily surprised last summer when I found black raspberries in a tangled mess of shrubs. Last fall, after a small summer harvest, I read some less thorough blogs that said to prune the dead canes and leave the new canes to grow over the winter and prune in the spring. So I supported them over the winter, now (May 3rd) I have three cleaned up bushes with 4-5 seven foot shoots on each bush. Should I trim them, or leave them this year and follow your fall pruning schedule next year? Thanks for your help!
The flowers will need insects for pollination, so I would recommend using bird netting that allows insects through. If you use the butterfly netting, I would just wait until the fruit has already been set to put it up for the season.
The good news is that black raspberries are hard to ruin ? Just follow the pruning schedule in the spring and you should be back on track. You may have a reduced harvest in the spring, but they should bounce back.
This sounds to me like cane blight, which often shows up during wet seasons. It can spread from plant to plant if infected tools are used to prune the plants, so sanitize your pruners before and after using them on your plants. The disease may also occur more often in the shade, since it takes the plants longer to dry out, although my plants in the shade were fine.
You may be able to save your plants by doing the following things: Cut them down to the ground before winter, and either burn the infected plant matter or send it to the landfill. Composting it could keep the disease alive on your property. Weed and mulch really well under/around each plant, as in this case, weeds could harbor the disease. Do not add any nitrogen fertilizer to the soil, as this could encourage the plants to grow more diseased matter at an increased rate, and we want to stop growth for this year to try to discourage spread of the disease.
We have so many wild black raspberry plants all over our 100 acres, but I would like to transplant them to one spot in our orchard so picking is less of an all day process. Is this possible? Will they survive? Should I do this after they are done producing?
Lisa
Last fall we purchased some property and this spring we have discovered many wild black raspberries growing all over the property! Do you know, can I dig them up and transplant them into one garden patch? Or is it best to let them keep growing in the brush and under trees where they are now?
Watering practice can help prevent fungal outbreaks. Water the root area and avoid watering the above ground parts as much as possible. Perennials growing in clay soils will enjoy a 1x-per-week deep watering as opposed to frequent shallow waterings.
Hi Amy,
We have two black raspberry bushes that were given to us last summer. I have been struggling to understand how to care for them, specifically pruning. This article eliminated my confusion caused by reading care instructions from other web sites. Thank you.
We were also given two Latham Red raspberry bushes at that same time. I have read that the Latham variety is a summer bearing red raspberry. What little bit I have found on pruning this summer bearing red variety sounds the same as your instructions for black raspberries. Does this sound accurate to you? Any advice for me on pruning care for them?
Applying mulched leaves in the fall is an excellent practice. Wood chips that have composted for a couple of years are also an excellent amendment for brambles of any kind. Planting a living mulch of clover can also add a boost of nitrogen, but overall, brambles do not require any specific fertilization.
In my experience, deer find brambles of all kinds to be delicious. You might have better luck with a thick hedge of wild roses, wild plums, gooseberries, and buffaloberry. The combination of thorns, food, and the girth of the buffaloberry should deter them. Non-edible deer resistant shrubs of considerable size can help to deter them as well. But your only real assurance for keeping deer out of a garden is a deer fence. A short fence flanked by 12-foot-high shrubs will work, but only once the shrubs have reached mature height.
Hello
I planted a small black raspberry last spring and the plant did well. My question is, some of the canes arched and rooted to the ground. Do I need to cut them at the arch? They are starting to bud leaves right now in early spring and only one of the rooted arches is leafing at the base of the end ( where it rooted to ground. What should I do? Do I leave them or cut them?
In a tidy bramble patch, canes will not be allowed to bend over and root b/c when they do, they create uneven spacing in the rows and can complicate future training and pruning. So you could pull the live ones and replant them according to good planting practice. If you have the space, you could let them grow and follow first-year instructions in the article above.
An alternative approach is to move the black raspberries to another location b/c it is so easy to propagate them, and revive the old grapevines. (A google search can give you hints on pruning and restoring old grapevines.)
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