Ls3 Injector Replacement

[Lalo Scalf]

You will need to remove the turbo coolant reservoir to access the rear pass. injector. Start with the bolt a the bottom. Then unclamp the two hoses going towards the radiator. Fit the smaller hose into the bigger hose so coolant doesn't spill while you set it aside some where. Now just lift the reservoir upward and onto its side.

- Pull out the bracket that hugs down the injector and Unclip the harness. For both rear injectors, it helps if you have your thumb press and hold the clip, while using a flat head screw driver to lift it up.

- Pulling the injector out. This is the hardest part because the plastic body of the injectors are very soft and could tear easily if not carefull (You lose more money on your rebate/core if the plastic body is damaged , I.E. Deatwercks rebates). You'll want to wrap up the tips on a some pliers with electrical tape or duct tape and gently grasp the top of the injector and pull. I also used a towel rag as an extra precaution if fuel where to spit out. ( it didn't).

- Prep your new Injector. Take the grey caps off your oil injector and fit onto your new one. A flat head will work fine. Take some Synthetic grease that was provided and lather over the two O-rings or use some engine oil. Make sure your hands are clean !

- Install your new one. Make sure the area is clean and no debris is inside the fuel injector housing. Install it in the same orientation as the old one faced. (the rears, clip faced towards the firewall. the fronts, clip faced towards the radiator). Make sure the injector snaps into place and that the bracket that hugs onto it, sits flush ontop of it. I used my adapter screw driver to push it all the way in. Push on top of the grey cap.

Ran into trouble getting a grip on the injectors to pull them out with pliers, noticed the holes on each side. Figured those were probably used for a specialty tool made for pulling the injectors, so I made a puller out of a heavier duty coat hanger and one sturdy zip-tie, worked like a charm.

Having trouble attaching pics today, so here's a description of how. Use one of the hangers that has the cardboard tube, discard the tube. Cut off both bend ends so you have two equal length straight pieces connected by the curved hanger end. Using a pair of pliers, bend a 1/4 tip 90 degrees to the end of each side. Then bend an offset (two bends required each side) into each end so that the tips can fit into the injector, while the two hanger wires can snug together just above the injector. Cinch the zip tie around the two wires, trim the excess.

Slide the zip tie up towards the hand grip (hanger) end while inserting the bent tips into each side of the injector. Slide the zip tie down to tighten the tips in place in the injector. Hold the puller with one hand near the injector, pull on the other end, should work fine. You can also bend one of the handles on a binder clip as shown, but the hanger is the easier solution.

It looks like I have to pull the entire rail (all six injectors), which means pulling the intake manifold. If I do this, do I have to replace the intake manifold gasket and all six o-rings on the injectors?

Bigger job than it sounds. If you do this, you are basically doing what it takes to do a spark plug/PCV valve change (highly recommended) + fuel system depressurization + pulling off fuel rail/injectors. I would replace all 6, because if 1 is gone, and that too on the cooler bank, the rest will follow in short order. But the work to get to them is not that bad, so you can defer if you really want to.

NOTE: 2007 Edge PCV valves are electrically heated, so if you are wondering why the intake manifold isn't coming off easily, there is an electrical plug attached to the underside of the intake (next to the PCV valve) that you can only get to by first disconnecting everything topside from the intake and then lifting it up/tilting it.

O Rings come with the new injectors, so no worries there. A dab of the same engine oil you put in the crankcase is fine for the O Rings. You can reuse the O Rings on the old injectors that you are not replacing, just clean them up first before oiling.

Schrader valve will depressurize the system, not much fuel will come out, just a quick spurt. The injectors will pop right out once the rail is off. The may pull out with the rail. I use Sil Glyde to lube the new orings, you can get it at any parts store. I'd at least replace all the o-rings even if you only replace one injector.

I found a couple pictures on the forum of the fuel injectors but very little information on steps to replace them. The only videos I could find online were for older models with a different injector diagram. Talking to the dealer they quoted me $770 to replace a single injector, gaskets and piping associated with the job. 4 hours or labor and $240 in parts.

The dealer said the piping and gaskets must be replaced even for a single injector replacement job. Is this all necessary? I've never had another vehicle with injector problems so this will be a first.

Any help, links to instruction/diagrams or videos would be awesome! I enjoy working on these projects rather than paying someone else to do the work since you learn something every time. I also want it done right.

I've received two different quotes now from dealers for $770 to replace a single injector. Even though only the #5 injector is misfiring and bad they are recommending replacing all 4 on the side. To replace 4 it would be around $1200

I can buy all the new parts for around $150. I was hoping to attempt the work myself and figured even if it took me a day to do the work at least I learned something and can do it again next time. Reading more and more forums it sounds like this can be a common problem and I don't plan on paying $770 each time I need an injector replaced.

I'm not finding any info on injector/ orings when i search through alldata on the pc. I spoke with a rep last week and he said they have the ability to add info. I'll see if they can add that r&r along with the emissions.

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I ran into the issue of not knowing and took mine to the stealership and paid $1000 for one injector and a ignition coil. Never again. I had searched for days to figure out the issue and finally came upon this video where he did this on a suburban or a tahoe but it is the same process for a silverado. Looks time consuming but the parts are less expensive. Roughly under $400 if you do all the parts.

I've got a 2012 WR250R. I'm wanting to pull the injector to clean and inspect but not quite sure how to do it. The service manual is kind of lacking on info. I'm thinking I may have to pull out the whole throttle body? Any advise would be much appreciated!

If you do it, look at the parts lists and get all of the seals/o'rings/etc before you start. There is a fuel rail on top of it with the fuel line from the pump hooked to it. Once that is off, and the connector unplugged, the injector just pulls out. Once the seal is disturbed, I'd be sure to replace all of them.

I've not heard of any trouble with any Yamaha Injectors, although I'm sure it has happened. Running clean fuel of the proper grade and occasional Sea Foam (don't get carried away), my twelve year old WRR has never had the injector/throttle body apart. I occasionally run non-ethanol 91 grade through mine, and I never leave the ethanol stuff in the tank during the off season. I basically run it next to dry, fill it with the non-ethanol stuff, run it a bit, then shut it off for the winter. Starts right up inspiring,and runs just fine. I never leave the tank partially filled, but topic off as soon as i return from a ride. The air space, atmospheric moisture and ethanol conspire to do in your fuel system. No air space (full tank), and no storage with ethanol = no problems for me.

Never had a problem with starting. I rode to work one day, got off work, went to start the bike and it would turn over fine but no fire. Acted like it didn't want to start at all. I've got a fuel pressure regulator coming-thinking this might be the problem. After I put new plug in, I tried to start it-held the throttle WFO-no go. Pulled the plug, no signs of fuel getting to it. Heard the fuel pump running fine(the original pump was running fine too but a bit more noisy).

Bike only has about 3500 miles on it. I bought it new and have only added IMS 4.7 gal tank, skid plates, Bark Buster hand guards. Engine/exhaust is stock. I've got a couple of days off. I may take the old pressure regulator off, spray some carb cleaner in it and see if I get some type of reaction.

Hmm- did this any of this start after the larger tank was installed? Other work? Some have had problems with the large tank sub-pumps. I understand that the fuel in the wings/shrouds its pumped up to where the main pump is.

If you have a place outside to do this: Remove the fuel line coming from the pump at the fuel rail by the injector. Rig up some method to direct output of that line into a container. If the fuel flows well when you turn the key on, then it is something downstream: in this case the engine side of what you disconnected.

Any fault codes? Do you have a factory service manual? If you look at the attached diagram from the OEM parts lists, you can see the way the injector mounts. You can use a 9V battery to make it function. You can also see the seals/o'rings I'm referring to. Once disturbed, they really should be replaced.

Motion Pro sells a neat little injector cleaning device that uses 9V battery to operate the injector while you spray cleaner/solvent through it. Rigging one up for a test shouldn't too hard to prove your injector functions. You should be easily able to hear a click when you attach the wire and then disconnect it.

If the injector is functioning, and fuel is getting there, then the next step is finding out if the injector is getting the signal to flow fuel. If there is some sort of a ECU/sensor problem, you should see some sort of fault code on the meter. It doesn't pick up everything, but does most things.

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