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Betty Neyhart
Ever since my first trip to Colonial Williamsburg I have been fascinated with foot powered lathes. This is where all those hybrid woodworkers and power tool guys roll your eyes and click away to something else.
This is a smaller version of the Wheelwright lathe. In this version the stepped pulley remains and a massive flywheel retains a lot of the momentum as a compromise for not having the great wheel. The axle and offset crank is intriguing providing great stability without the need for a third leg to support the flywheel. The half leg that receives the axle also makes a handy tool rest and it did not get in the way while turning at all. Granted I only turned on this lathe for about 5 minutes.
This design steps forward in time a century and therefore should be expected to be more efficient in many ways. The cast iron flywheel weighs over 300 lbs and really hums when you get it turning. Once up to speed, there is very little effort to maintain it. Plus the bicycle style pedals mean you can use both feet and sit comfortably while working. The drawbacks here is with so many iron parts, this design is out of the reach of the average woodworker. Though the inclusion of some more modern parts reminds me how much I like modern drive centers and live centers. I will be sure to include ways to use my existing lathe accessories not only to save money but to increase the functionality and effectiveness of my design.
Anyways, at one point I turned a nice cedar hair stacker on my mini lathe. Looked beautiful, but needed some design work. It was too short to be effective. I'm a better fly tier than a woodworker, altho I'm not an expert at either.
The piece of tubing had to be heated to take the temper out of it and then one end was flared with a flaring tool to give it a slight trumpet bell shape. On the other end, two half circles were cut out on the endwalls opposite each other.
The cap goes on over the end with the half circle cutouts ( obviously) and the hair is inserted, tips first into the bell end. Rap the stacker a few times on a hard surface, take off the cap and pull out the hair by the stacked tips .
I have been a woodturner for about 20 years now, and keep threatening to make one out of some of the tropical hardwoods I often use. However, it just never seems to rise to the top of my 'priority list', though it does have a prominent place on my "bucket list"!
Some years ago, we had taken down a large tree and a couple of years later we had it milled into boards. This lumber was beautifully splalted, a fungal discoloration caused by partially decayed wood. My wife wanted a large display shelf built with this, so I had a task to complete.
The unit would consist of 7, 5 feet by 1-foot shelves separated by 6, 1-foot spindles and the top shelf has 6, 3-inch spindles to top it off. I laid out the design with the shelved and how to hold everything together. All was going will till I came to the spindles. I found some I could purchase; however, they were not exactly what we were looking for and the price was more of an investment than I was willing to make. I remembered the old wood lathe tucked in the corner of my workshop. Now through the power of YouTube I could learn how to use it. After many hours I learned what type of wood I should use, how to sharpen the tools so I could get clean cuts to reduce the sanding time required. After a lot of practice, and work creating the spindles I was able to complete the project.
Community: Find a group of believers who put the Bible first. Attend weekly worship services, get involved with a Bible study (Join one of LBPC bible study groups). Find a mentor to support you.
Read and study: If you do not have a Bible, get one and read it daily. There are many versions available, so you will need to find a version that you can understand. I suggest looking at www.biblegateway.com as a starting point. They also have an APP available. You can compare many different versions, search for a verse, or a topic. Bible Gateway also provides reading plans that can aid in reading the Bible through in under a year. (My wife and I have committed to read it through together every year for the last four or five years. We keep each other on track and discuss what we have read. This has been a blessing for us in many ways.)
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Ron Katz
Ron got into wood turning in 2009 after spending a lot of time building a friend an elaborate audio system cabinet/credenza out of Californian Beech and Purple Heart wood. (see below)
Ron has been a pioneer in utilizing techniques that blend together various woods producing unique pieces that stand out from the rest. As you can see from these beautiful photos, Ron is not only a woodworker, a woodturner he is a fabulous photographer.
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The next question was is there any difference in the utility of the shapes? Would one shape hold more or less honey than another shape? Would one shape drip honey longer or shorter than another version? How much honey would remain on the honey dipper after you had dripped most of it off?
Okay. These are not the most pressing questions in the world. But they were an excuse for me to turn on, and turn, on my lathe! I decided to test three different shapes. Each dipper would have a head of the same length, 5 grooves cut with a 1/8th inch parting tool, and the maximum diameter would be the same for all three dippers. The process for turning honey dippers was outlined in my earlier project post. I turned (A) straight sided dipper, (B) tear shaped dipper, (C) pointed dipper.
For 30 seconds the honey dripped off the dipper into the container. Then for 2 and minutes the dipper was held over a mug to see how long the honey continued to drip. Once all three dippers had been tested I then measured the weight of the dipper. In order to balance the kitchen scale I could see how much movement was necessary. This told me which dipper held on to the most honey.
I measured the final weight of the dippers, after they were allowed to drain a bit longer. Dipper (A) had more honey still on it than dippers (B) & (C). Dippers (B) and (C) had about the same amount of honey left on them. That would mean if you washed your dipper after use you would lose more honey with dipper (A). On the other hand if you lick your dipper to clean it then Dipper (A) would be your better choice.
The shape of the dipper does affect the amount of honey you get for tea or for drizzling on toast. The larger the surface area the more honey is retained. I did not test the ability of the dippers to clean out the honey pot (It was way too full). I would think the pointed dipper (C) would be the most awkward to use for cleanup.
Now you can talk intelligently with your patrons about the benefits of one honey dipper over the other. Then you can go into the technique of twirling the dipper so you can get even more honey for your tea!
Two ideas. You can keep the honey dipper in the jar or you can rinse with hot water and wash with your regular dishes. If you keep it in the jar then just drizzle the honey from the dipper to your tea or toast.
Thank you for your compliments. I have had no difficulty working with cherry wood. The leaves and bark can be troublesome. I would do a search on prunus wood if you are concerned about it being food safe.
Learn to use 5 different wood turning tools, with confidence, while you turn 7 projects, building your wood turning skills sequentially. Includes tips and ideas for marketing your wood turning, when you are ready to move forward.
I will make the cut on my table saw. First I make a cut of nearly 18 mm which leaves the strip of wood oversized by around a millimeter. I measure the width of the strip with a caliper. Without changing the measurement on the caliper I position it against the fence and put a block of wood next to it. Now I can carefully move the fence till it fits the width plus a tenth of a millimeter as play.
On this plate we mark a line on the longer side of our slot that equals half the material thickness minus half of the guide bushing width. I want to cut slots in 18mm material with a 17mm bushing so the distance is half a millimeter.
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