Thanksfor the info. I did take the hinge in to bunnings. The problem is in the cupboard there is a not sure what it's call but lock the hinge in. And not sure if I can remove it. ( worried I might damage the cupboard)
The bottom line is as long as the new hinge round bit fits inside that metal ring and it is sitting flush with the door surface there is no problem as the Bunnings hinges have there own screw mounting points.
Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community @rod80. It's brilliant to have you join us, and many thanks for your question about replacing a cupboard hinge.
@Jewelleryrescue is on the money there; try taking a small flathead screwdriver and bending those outside teeth towards the middle. Then, with needlenosed pliers, try gripping the teeth and pulling the fitting out. I suspect it's just a tight press fit. Be careful not to damage your door in the process.
In answer to your question, I am unaware of where you could get that exact hinge. Unless you can work out the manufacturer, then you'd need to remove the insert in the door and use a generic replacement.
Please let me know if you have any questions.
Mitchell
Hi - Does anyone know if kaboodle do a broom cupboard to suit a laundry? Website lists a pantry or two, but they're with shelves; I'd like one like the Flatpax Utility 600mm 1 door broom cupboard, to accommodate a broom (funnily enough) and stick vacuum:
The Kaboodle 600mm Kitchen Pantry has five shelves in it and has a solid timber backing. Customers will often ask their builder to modify the shelving system so that it has room for brooms and vacuum cleaners. I'm sorry but it does not come in a broom cupboard configuration. Its door comes in several colours and finishes.
The Flatpax Utility 600mm 1 Door Broom Cupboard does come in a broom cupboard configuration, but it only has a thin panel for its backing and uses a cam lock assembly system. This unit only comes with a single door in white.
The link How to plan a laundry renovation by @Adam_W is great; I'd reviewed previously, got most thIngs covered. It's a small space, so has it's limitations. I'll utilise existing waste pipe, removing large trough sink and replace for worktop and smaller, s/s inset laundry trough. Washing machine taps could do with lowering/moving, whilst trying to limit plumbing works. Sorry - I'll send a photo soon (once I've tidied) and layout with dimensions!
Thanks for posting the photos and measurements of your laundry area. It's great that you've added the materials you want installed in your laundry. Please give me some time to draw up your laundry and as soon as I'm finished, I'll post it here.
I'm just following up for my colleague. I've created a rendering below of a possible layout. I've placed the broom cupboard into the plan, but I was unsure where you were thinking for the hamper. Obviously, the sink takes up space, and so does the washer, so I think it's either the hamper or the broom cabinet that you could fit in, but not both.
I've placed a sample sketch of your laundry in both configurations with your preferred tiles and door. I've used the smaller 450 pantry so that your laundry cabinet can be bigger. Please have a look and if you wish to see it in another configuration, please let me know.
Hi @EricL and @MitchellMc, I had the same realisation (pantry or laundry hamper) only yesterday - I had a plumber round rejigging wall taps ready for under worktop, sink, and cupboard that needs to allow for sink! - thank you both for confirming/flagging this!
Also, thanks for the great designs. Now that I see it without the pantry, I actually prefer the flow with the worktop and wall cupboards wall-to-wall; also knowing the double laundry hamper will be there and well-utilised. I think we can get away without a pantry - initially we wanted the 'broom cupboard' aspect as mentioned earlier in thread, though now, we have very little that requires a pantry like this.
I have an apartment that I rent out short term and want to lock one of the cupboards in the kitchen.
My issue is, is that I do not want to make the lock visible, so I do not want to put any locks on the front of the cabinet.
Originally, I was using these magnetic locks from Bunnings, however they are not very strong and some guests have opened them, probably thinking the cupboard was for them and giving it a little force:
-mag-lock-4-magnetic-lock-system-with-1-key_p4212029
What I am thinking is that I could put a cam lock into the side of the cupboard that is next to the one that I want to lock, however that would have the striker of the cam lock facing the inside of the door that I want to lock.
Can anyone recommend any ideas how I can have the striker somehow attach to the door from the inside so that it can hold onto the door? I was thinking if I can find a camlock with a notch on the striker (and probably an extra long striker), I could then attach something to the inner of the door and the striker would latch onto the door.
It matters because I don't want a big lock showing on the front of expensive kitchen cabinets. Imagine when I go to sell this place and there's a big nasty, aesthetically ugly camlock on the door that you store your cereal.
Why not just stick with your original plan, (maybe use three of those kiddy latches on a tall cupboard like that) and to help prevent nosy people, remove the cupboard handle? Maybe add a 'no access' sticker or something over the holes for the handle, to make it perfectly clear ... then again it might just raise peoples curiosity enough to accept the challenge!
is there not a risk that if a renter doesn't know the cupboard is locked they force it thinking it's stuck and damaging your new cupboard doors? Or are you planning on putting a notice there that the cupboard is locked?
Could also use something like this
-sliding-door-lock-with-push-button-cylinder_p4094754 with the protruding locking pin engaging with a hole in a bit of aluminium angle attached to the back of the door ...
How about a push drawer lock?
Fits to side of cabinet, just push lock & pin goes into side of the drawer.
Key goes into lock, turns & lock pops out.
For a door, a bit of angle (with a hole in it) screwed to inside of door should work OK
Yes, this is exactly the route I think I am going to take... except instead of putting it on the front of the cabinet, I am going to put it on a 90 degree angle in the side of the cupboard next to it. I will need to find a bit of metal or something to attach to the door for the cam to attach onto.
I would still be concerned about the screws on the saddle or the handle being ripped off if someone doesnt know it is sealed shut. If its chipboard then there isnt that much strength.
Perhaps the arrangement of the handle screws will allow you to weaken them (eg chop the heads off) so it is only held in place by tight fit (bend the shafts) so that when they give it a yank the handle falls off and they can just poke it back in.
I dont know what your handle insides look like, but if they are like Im imagining then it would work.
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