Any wide pano that has close in subject matter, you want to use a pano head where the nodal point is the pivot. There is usually wide angle lens distortion at the sides of each panel that can prevent the perfect stitch. Autopano is the best I have used for stitching hands down, but it can fail if the panels are too unruly. Rather than mess with control points, which mostly don't work, it's better simply to reshoot with a reduced setting for wide angle.
Download File ····· https://t.co/JPj9aHa8KC
Here's an example taken 60 feet away from a 240 foot high waterfall featuring 192 exposures, 8 over 8 times 3 handheld, assembled in about ten minutes by Autopano Pro which spat out three ginormous HDR layers later to be combined in Photomatix. Don't even think about this shot with PTGui, it will not do it.
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If you just want your money back then let's not waste our time and
contact me at sup...@ptgui.com. I only want happy customers.On the other hand if you're interested in solving the problem: If your
images are taken properly (no parallax faults) then PTGui will be able
to stitch them just fine, indoor or outdoor. My guess is that PTGui
assumes your lens is a fisheye while it is a rectilinear lens. See 3.3
for details:
_3But that's just a guess. If you can make a zip file with your images
available I'd be happy to take a look. If you don't have a web server to
publish the file, use e.g. yousendit.com and send the file to
sup...@ptgui.comJoost
I am glad you chose to share your disappointment with this group,
rather than just write off your purchase as a waste. You make the
comment in the right place... but don't be surprised if people
leap to the defence of PTgui, as this group consists mostly of
VERY satisfied users, like myself.I too am retired, although I bought PTgui v2.0 years ago when I
had a great deal more disposable income. I can assure you that I
have seen PTgui regularly upgraded and become a truly superb
and very sophisticated tool for creating panoramas. I have bought
each upgrade when I was no longer entitled to free upgrades, and
have never regretted a single one. We are now up to v9.3!Since there are so many of us who are happy with our purchase
it should occur to you that you may be doing something wrong, or
for some reason not getting the best out of it.One thing immediately occurs to me. Most lenses with an 8mm
focal length are fisheye, not rectilinear. And PTgui assumes
that they are fisheye and sets things up accordingly. Most
of your problems might be solved by overriding the default
setting (which will work for most people who DON'T have an
8mm rectilinear lens), and selecting the correct "rectilinear"
setting.Let's take it from there. I have been amazed and humbled by
the generous expert help I have received over the years in this
group. If you hang around, and can take and follow advice,
then you will probably become very happy with your purchase.Roger W.
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Once you have chosen the right spot, setup your tripod. The Nodal Ninja has a levelling indicator built in which makes it easy to keep everything level. Choose your primary direction, put the camera in AV-mode and take an exposure reading. Memorize the aperture and exposure time, switch to manual mode and set the same settings. Focus the camera and then turn everything fancy off: auto focus off, auto white balance off, ISO fixed (the first few times I had this in auto mode without noticing). You want all images to be taken exactly the same. Then setup exposure bracketing to be able to create an HDR later on.
Finally, you should catch an extra shot where you move away the tripod slightly. Florian Knorn has a great technique how to do this by extending one of the legs of the tripod. What I learned is that with all of this, you should keep in mind where the sun is when doing this or otherwise you get rid of the tripod but cast a huge shadow instead. In a similar vain, it makes sense to avoid bright clothing when shooting in reflective environments!
Since I now have access to HDR env-maps, I also want to adapt the rendering pipeline to use HDR image based lighting instead of working with LDR images. Will be interesting to see how much difference it will make.
PTGui is an advanced panorama software with a high level of control over each step of the stitching process. Originally developed as a GUI over the powerful-but-cryptic command-line Panorama Tools, it has evolved into a full-fledge applications for Windows and Mac OS X.
PTGui is capable of stitching multi-row panoramas up to 360 x 180 field-of-view with virtually no limit on resolution and can produce gigapixel panoramas. It also provides automatic compensation for image tilt, vignetting and exposure inconsistencies, making it quite resilient to input issues. It supports the usual 8-bit workflow, plus a 16-bit workflow for improved image quality.
There are two versions of PTGui, the standard one and the Pro version reviewed here. There are no limits on image size and the 16-bit workflow is supported by both versions. Differences between the Pro and standard versions mostly fall into the Batch-Processing or HDR & Exposure-Fusion category. The former is useful feature to producing a high volume of panoramas such as for Time-Lapse photographyContinuous capture of images usually presented as a video sequence.. The latter allows PTGui Pro to automatically detect and perform HDR blendingMerging multiple exposures to create an image with a High-Dynamic-Range. or Exposure-FusionUsing multiple images to produce a Low-Dynamic-Range image of a High-Dynamic-Range scene., saving the need for separate HDR software and allowing the creation of HDR panoramas.
PTGui starts up directly with two windows open. The main window appears with a single tab labeled Project Assistant which provides a fully automatic workflow. One can jump directly to a manual workflow by clicking the aptly-named Advanced button. Regardless of which initial workflow is chosen, PTGui offers complete control over the whole process.
Completing each step makes to corresponding advanced tab appear and fills it with automatically chosen values. This lets the user tweak any parameter and, to some extent, get a better understanding of how the process works. The Load Image phase, for example, enables the Source Images and Mask tabs. The Mask feature is extremely useful for dealing with moving objects and lets the user paint over areas which are to be included or excluded from the panorama. Obviously, such areas have to be in the overlap otherwise there will be discontinuities.
PTGui Pro produces high-quality images with excellent sharpness throughout the frame and distinguishes itself by exceptional blending across seams. The automatic stitching is good and works well for the most part. It fails to correctly stitch objects at about the same rate as MS ICE, so slightly behind Autostitch. The main difference is that PTGui allows control-points to be tweaked, so one can improve upon the automatic solution.
All you really need is a capable digital camera and stitching software. There is plenty of photography gear that can greatly help make a panorama, with a tripod being most beneficial.
I also mostly just use a normal tripod head and it works most of the time. But if you make one of those artsy photos with something like a fence running past you and off into the distance you will probably have some issues with the stitch.
How do you like the ballhead for panoramas? So far I have stuck with older, crappier tripods to avoid the ballhead because I was wondering how that would be to set up for taking pictures around in a circle.
The Stream View 360-panorama was actually from an HDR series I shot with 3-exposures for each of the 24 increments. I tried using PTGui to pull it together and it assembled the image correctly. However, I found that Photomatix pulled more detail from the exposures, so I ran the images through Photomatrix first and then assembled the composite in PTGui.
But, if you want the sharpest composite possible, exporting to a Photoshop file with layers is a must. PTGui will remove the distortion from the images and place each photo on its own layer, aligning the features in each photo. You can then go through the layers looking for the best details to include.
Exactly my reason! Panorama heads are big and expensive. It is much easier to use a good tripod head and just keep track of the increments yourself. I also have some video shot with the Sigma 4.5mm on the review page. I should have used a lower ISO but you can clearly see the distortion effect.
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