Macbook Pro Keyboard Battery Low

[Leto Corrales]

Thebattery leaked and now I'm unable to open the battery cover. I took it to an Apple store but they are charging me $69.00 to replace it because it's already out of warranty. They tried to open it as well but was unsuccessful. Any suggestions are highly appreciated.

After taking off the central cover on the battery slot on the back, the first battery popped out fine, from there I used the widest flat head screw driver I could find and a hammer to get the side battery cover off. Smacked the **** out of it for about 2 minutes and it eventually started to loosen. Once I could see that it was starting to turn slightly, just work the top with a quarter twisting it back and fourth and eventually the top came off. Cleaned out the corrosion as best I could and now it works perfectly! Thank you so much guys!

You'll need to use a flat screw driver with the widest blade possible. Put the keyboard between you knees and with both hands, press slightly down and turn counter clock wise very, very hard. The slot on the cover may get damaged slightly but at least it's opened. I used rubbing alcohol to slightly wet the cover.

Once the cover is opened, you'll need to take the batteries out. Clean out as much of the haren white material as possible in the tube and between the battery and the tube. Press down on the battery to loose it and then tap the batteries out of the tube.

Bottom line is you'll need to use a screw driver with the right size blade and a handle which allows you to use both hands and some elbow grease. I used a quarter at first. The cover didn't budge but the quarter got twisted.

Experts over at candlepowerforums recommend that you never use alkaline batteries because they have a tendency to leak. Rechargeable batteries are the way to go. The best ones seem to be Sanyo's Eneeloop

To get the twist-off cover off, I applied heat directly to the keyboard near the cover. I used the side of heated oven, but a soldering iron work too. I used a nickle and pliers to unscrew the cover. (I mangle up a quarter first, a nickle worked better.)

To get the batteries out, I drilled a small hole in the stuck battery. Drilling it loosened the battery. Then I screwed a wood screw into the hold I drilled. I was able to pull out the battery by grabbing the wood screw with the pliers.

The second battery was loose, but gunk and plastic cover of battery was stuck to the inside of the keyboard. I scraped off the plastic, and used aluminum foil to scrub out the inside. Then I cleaned it with vinegar and a q-tip.

I tried most of the suggestions in this forum. Your idea was the one that worked. I used a Dremel tool instead of the hacksaw. Worked great and keyboard is still useable. I was using Duracell Coppertops. I posted theis reply earlier, but Apple took it down. Apparently this version was an "inappropriate activity" - unlike hacksaws, drilling, and heating ? Or sending the keyboard to the landfill and buying a new one.

use a flat-tipped screw driver and align it to the right of the groove on the cover. get someone to hold the keyboard while you use a hammer to tap the end of the screwdriver. give it a few hard knocks (not too hard, of course).

From what I have read....I have the best answer by far for some of you..... i used new penny...it bent ...I used nickel with vice grips ...bent the nickel ... I use Duracell Batteries ONLY...I dialed the 1 800 number for Duracell...explained to the the representative that they're battery leaked in my keyboard and battery cap was stuck... the woman wanted to know if it was a coppertop... yes that is all I buy.. she wanted the date on batteries... did not know since I could not open battery cap ...offered to break it open in front of a Duracell Rep .... wasn't necessary ...she requested price of keyboard ..went to Best Buy where I bought my iMac ... price was $69.99 ...she said fine ...now sending me a debit card for $69.99 ... now I have brand new keyboard ... ?

Once the cover is opened, you'll need to clean out as much of the haren white material as possible in the tube and between the battery and the tube. Press down on the battery to loose it and then tap the batteries out of the tube. Or you can use WD-40 spray.

Apple's Magic Keyboard combines a sleek design with a stable scissor mechanism beneath each key and a built-in rechargeable battery that's charged via the supplied Lightning to USB Cable, meaning you don't have to mess about with replacing AA batteries.

The built-in battery is very long-lasting, and should power your keyboard for about a month or more between charges. If you're unsure how much charge is left, you can check the battery level at any time within macOS. The following steps show you how.

You can also check the battery level percentage from the Bluetooth menu, which can be accessed via the Control Center in your menu bar. You should see the percentage next to your Apple Keyboard, listed under "Devices."

MacRumors attracts a broad audience of both consumers and professionals interested in the latest technologies and products. We also boast an active community focused on purchasing decisions and technical aspects of the iPhone, iPad, Mac, and other Apple platforms.

When you need to have your keyboard replaced, they don't replace the keyboard; it's too time consuming and labor intensive (and somewhat dangerous due to the battery). They replace the entire top case assembly.

You may have received something called NOS (New Old Stock) meaning the top case may be new, but it's been sitting on a shelf for a couple of years. The battery, though unused, is still degrading even though it's sitting on a shelf somewhere. Return it to your service center and make them aware of the issue.

Actually if your cycle count shows 1 that means they replaced the battery. Stolen implies that you no longer have a battery in your Mac. And if by "backup" you mean that you are getting 4 1/2 - 5 hours usage out of the Mac on just the battery then that is an acceptable run time depending on what you are doing on the Mac.

You can get some more detailed information on the battery, including serial number, manufacturer, and most importantly in this situation, the DATE of manufacture. The best way I've found to do so is to use an application called Coconut Battery (no affiliation, just a very happy user), which can also help track the battery's health over time, as well as the same information for your iOS devices.

The Apple Wireless Keyboard (Aluminum) uses three AA batteries. One of the AA batteries in my keyboard is stuck inside due to corrosion. I've managed to strip down most of the keyboard, but I'm stuck with the final C-clip that is deep inside and I haven't got any tool to undo the C-clip. Any advice will be appreciated. Thanks!

i have spent all day trying to remove a battery from my number key pad. only bought it 6 weeks ago, then it stopped working to find that the battery had got stuck,(corrosion) i used wd40 and baking soda........ and some strong tapping it on ground.

After reading all of these solutions and being intimidated to take my keyboard apart...I put two batteries in on top of the corroded battery and pushed down on them really hard. It dislodged the stuck battery and you could feel the resistance of the spring. Then all 3 slid right out and I was able to put 3 new batts in and now it works. Yay.

I have used a baking soda and water solution on my car to get rid of corrosion that was keeping the battery from connecting, and one full cup of a water-baking soda solution (very little baking soda, too - probably 1-2 TBSP, but I can't remember right now) will remove all of the corrosion very quickly.

Since you're using this on a keyboard, you should probably take more caution not to get the rest of the keyboard wet - perhaps dab the solution on a cloth or paper towel or q-tip or something and rub that where needed. Also make sure that the unit is thoroughly dry before starting it back up - a hair dryer will speed up the process dramatically.

The leaked chemical is potassium hydroxide which reacts with CO2 in the air to form potassium carbonate, the white salts you see. A weak acid like vinegar will neutralize the potassium hydroxide under the white crust.

It came off easily by pulling and prying up. Then I could see the bottom of the battery tube where the spring is and a small phillips head screw. I undid the screw and a small metal clamp and the screw came out.

Once everything was disconnected and the screw and clamp were removed the whole power switch, circuit board and battery spring all slid out to the left! Be careful with the ribbon cable! Pull it away from the circuit board before you slide it out. Now I could see the stuck, corroded battery and push it out from the right or left. I sprayed a little WD-40 in and was able to push the battery out with a screwdriver. This left corrosion inside the tube so the batteries wouldn't slide easily in or out. I scraped out the inside with a knife and some sandpaper. This cleared enough corrosion out that new batteries easily slide in and out. I reassembled and everything works now! Be careful with the ribbon cable when re-assembling. Make sure you pull it toward you before you slide the power switch/circuit board back in!

So, far, this is the guide that saved my life. I was able to do all the same steps. Now I just need to clean up the little bit of corrosion inside as that is preventing batteries to go in and out properly... it is a little bit but enough to block the batteries....

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