Mazda 323 Engine Parts List

[Anush Faigley]

Becausethe 2.5 was predominantly used in front-wheel-drive applications, there are a number of components that need to come off the 2.0-liter coming out of the car before you can reinstall the 2.5 in the car.

On the block, the thermostat housing and PCV system are different. I sourced a lower-temperature Mishimoto thermostat housing from Goodwin Racing, and used a Motorcraft PCV baffle from a Ford Ranger, which has the correct size hose barb, is thinner and allows the 2.0-liter plastic intake manifold chamber to sit properly. Some of the coolant hoses are no longer available from Mazda, so I got all that I could and ordered a silicone coolant hose kit from Goodwin Racing.

If I had an unlimited budget, I would have had more material welded to the top of the intake manifold where it meets the head so we could port-match it exactly, but that would have required removing the locating dowel pins and machining the mating surface, which would have added time and expense.

Most of the instructions say to modify the factory 2.0-liter intake gasket, but McKenzie suggested anaerobic sealer, a gasket maker that seals in the absence of air, which is ideal for two precise-machined mating surfaces. I torqued the intake to the head and then wiped off the sealer from inside the port runners.

Great writeup! Really going to help me in a couple of weeks. Just waiting on some parts to arrive.

A heads up to you tho: there is a typo on the parts list. the dayco belt should be a 2310, not a 3210. big difference ?

To transfer the VVT plug from the 2.0 to the 2.5, which wires connect to which? 2.0 plug has a black wire and a black/red stripe wire while the 2.5 plug has a green wire and a white/red stripe wire. Are the solid wires ground?

No matter which Mazda model you own, there is an OEM replacement engine for it. Although Mazda builds long-lasting cars, yours may be ready for a new engine? If so, check out the list of OEM Mazda engines below and order today. You'll find all the OEM parts you need like filters and pistons that keep your Mazda engine in perfect running condition. Click here for an air filter buyers guide.

University Volkswagen Mazda (DBA: Real Mazda Parts) has made every effort to provide accurate schematics, part information, and diagnostic advice. However, we can not be held responsible for errors, part discontinuations, or incorrect information.

Please be advised: All parts are subject to warehouse order due to availability. Warehouse locations affect part availability. An email will be sent with expected shipping date once the order is processed.

All of the 2006-2007 Mazdaspeed 6 performance parts and accessories are here listed with no filters in order from new to old for easy browsing. Fitment of the parts includes the overseas MPS 6 as well.

All the gaskets and bearings required for an engine rebuild, right down to spark plugs and the best assembly lube for your bearings. These are the same parts we use to build every motor that leaves Flyin' Miata. For example, the bearings are top-quality tri-metal. The picture may not be completely accurate, so please read the list of parts below.

The kit does not include piston rings, oil or water pumps. It also doesn't include sealant for shipping reasons, but you can get it locally - we recommend Permatex "Right Stuff" from NAPA, 7652694.

This is a great parts reference list to prepare for a tune up or repair on your Satoh S650g. Many local auto parts providers can find and cross reference compatible parts from your tractor, note that NAPA auto parts has a great history at finding compatible parts locally. Many compatible parts can be found online as well.

The MX-5 Cup race cars start as complete MX-5 road cars from the Mazda Hiroshima, Japan factory before being transported to engineering development partner Flis Performance in Daytona Beach, Florida, where they are produced into a race car.

The car is completely disassembled, tub is cleaned of seam sealer and sound deadening material, an IMSA, INDYCAR, and SCCA approved roll cage is TIG welded into the car. The cage contains complete NASCAR-style door bars on both sides of the car (making it the ultimate HPDE driver / instructor car) and is tied together across the firewall through the interior of the dash leaving a neat appearing and fully functional dash. After roll cage completion, the cage and tub of the car are painted in an automotive paint booth.

After cage installation and paint, the car is assembled with over 250 race car-specific parts. The parts added to the car provide handling, endurance, safety and power enhancement specifically designed for the car after hundreds of hours and thousands of miles of both on-track and lab testing by automotive mechanical engineers and professional race car drivers. Component sealing and authentication tracking is done for parity in the various racing series in which the car competes.

The complete list of parts added to the race car can be found in the Mazda MX-5 Cup car Homologation Document at flisperformance.com - the highlights are listed below. For information on purchasing a new car contact Flis Performance by email or at (386) 256-7021.

I know from previous conversations that they RX-8 (SE) and the NC shared from suspension and crossmember bits (making MZR Ecoboost swaps into RX-8s easy peasy) As I know some diff bits interchange. But do we have a list of swapable parts between the F-series and the N-Series chassis?

Does "N-series chassis" mean basically, all Miatas? NA, NB, NC, ND? Because there are very few parts that swap between those other than the NA/NB. Heck, I doubt there's a lot in common between an FB and an FD.

So you're basically asking "what parts can be put on both an RX-something and a Miata?" The biggest is going to be between the RX8 and the NC Miata, as they're basically the same car. And very few other parts will be on the list.

Bolting up the subframe is easy. The wiring and getting it running is another issue. Mazmart was working on putting a renesis into an NC and ran into a nightmare with the wiring. The NC and RX8 wiring harnesses are different enough that it is far from a plug and play solution.

I can't speak for the headlight motors, but the ashtray thing is funny. Not the FB, but the SA had a hee-yuuge ashtray in the center console/as the center console. Fit like four packs' worth of ashes and butts in there. The cupholder assembly from a 1.6 Miata would fit in the spot where the SA ashtray goes, so you could have a cupholder in an RX-7.

SA and FB are technically the same generation (Series 1 vs. Series 2/3) but they're more different from each other than NA and NB are. Almost nothing interchanges between them except in some cases as complete assemblies. Of course, the SA was the far superior car, with a lighter, stiffer chassis, more entertaining suspension (18mm rear swaybar and I deeply suspect stiffer front springs/dampers) and a more roomy interior with a much more natural feeling shifter position. And the tach doubled as the voltmeter!

Maybe it was the SA, I don't actually discriminate between the two as I only just learned the difference. The NA6 has that huge ashtray. Maybe the NA8 as well, I forget. Things like ashtray trivia used to be important to me, they are no longer.

As far as the OP's question goes, solomiata.com has the drivetrain commonality very nicely laid out. Basically the NA8/NB is a different dialect of S3/FC in some ways, lots of similar designs although actual parts interchange will involve mixing and matching from within assemblies, or a visit to a machine shop.

Miata gearsets are popular swap to RX-7s but they require machining, for example. Every time I buy a Miata transmission for my RX-7, it gets stolen out of my garage/car. I take that as a sign that I shouldn't try to do that

The class requires either the 6-speed manual transmission or an automatic for those so inclined. Most will opt for the manual, so it is best to find a car already equipped with a 6-speed (hint: look for a Club or Grand Touring model). The NC2 also received an engine update which gave the car a forged crank. This allows for a higher redline, making it better suited for performance driving.

Whichever car you land on keep in mind that the minimum weight, as weighed without Driver, will be 2,500 pounds for everyone. The purpose is to keep things equal while allowing owners the freedom to build their car as they see fit. This is particularly important as some safety options require the removal of the factory soft top and others do not. Most cars will be at or over 2500lbs without any issues, while others may need to run a little extra fuel to meet the minimum.

In addition to the above, you can also add basic, non-performance items to make the car feel like yours. This includes things like gauges, data systems or cameras, an alternate shift knob and upgrades to audio equipment. Especially for track use, it is highly recommended that you add a sturdy tow hook to each end of the car, just in case. If you plan to drive your car to and from events and need to take more gear than it will haul, you can also add a trailer hitch.

If you plan to put your Club Spec MX-5 on track, you may want to invest in some modifications to make it more track ready. None of these modifications will make it faster, but they will all help you and your car get more laps per session and more life out of key components.

You may also upgrade the hubs and bearings, front and rear. The allowed front upgrade swaps the MX-5 parts for the RX-8 version. The rears are competition parts, all of which come from Mazda Motorsports. Another good upgrade is to swap out the lug studs. You can use any one you like, but most prefer ARP.

Especially if you plan to run longer track sessions, you may want to add an oil cooler. Like many of the allowable modifications in Club Spec, Mazda Motorsports has a great solution here, but you can add any cooler you like, provided it serves no other purpose. It is highly recommended to use the Mazda Motorsports option, as a traditional sandwich plate adapter installed to the factory oil filter housing is known to cause the housing to fail.

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