Interfacing Guide

[Giordano Thibault]

Interfacingis an additional layer applied to the inside of garments or other sewing projects, in certain areas only, to add firmness, shape, structure, and support to areas such as collars, cuffs, waistbands and pockets; and to stabilise areas such as shoulder seams or necklines, which might otherwise hang limply.

Interfacings come in two main types (fusible or sew-in), three main weaves (non-woven, woven and knit), and in different weights (light, medium, heavy weight). It is important to choose the correct type of interfacing for your garment; if you are using a pattern, they will normally indicate if interfacing is required and what type you need.

Fusible interfacing is by far the easiest to use, especially for beginners. It has an adhesive on one side which bonds permanently with the fabric when applied with an iron, due to the combination of heat and steam. Fusible interfacing is suitable for most uses, but avoid it for:

Woven interfacing, like woven fabric, has a lengthwise and crosswise grain. When you cut woven interfacing, be sure to match the grain of the interfacing with the grain of the part of the garment to be interfaced, to make sure the two layers of fabric work together properly. Because of the need to match the grainline, it is less economical than non-woven interfacing, which can be cut in any direction.

The decision as to whether to buy woven, non-woven or knit interfacing is usually dictated by the pattern and/or type of fabric you are using. As a general rule, non-woven interfacing is suitable for most tasks unless you are sewing with a jersey of stretch fabric in which case knit interfacing is appropriate. You only really need to consider woven interfacing for particularly fine fabrics such as sheers and silks, where a very natural shaping is essential to preserve the qualities of the fabric.

The first step is to identify which side of the interfacing has the adhesive on it. The adhesive side normally has a slightly bobbly, raised appearance, and usually you can see a slight shininess from the glue.

Then take your main fabric pieces and interfacing pieces to the ironing board. Place the main fabric wrong side up on the ironing board; and then place the fusible interfacing on top, with the adhesive side facing down on to the wrong side of the main fabric.

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My first bags were made out of home decor fabric. As I have many beautiful quilt weight fabrics, I started to use them for bags too . And I love these bags; you can pair the fabric with different types of interfacing, for different types of bags.

Adding interfacing to a piece of fabric creates more bulk. Before you start making up your bag you might want to make a test to see how your sewing machine sews through thick fabrics.

Thank you so much for posting the Interfacing Guide. It is very helpful to me who is starting out with making bags. I am going to remember to put lightweight interfacing before the fleece. I like the crisp look. Your bags are inspiring me. I love your color combinations!!

I have used Soft and Stable and it is a great interfacing. The bags really hold their shape. Another product sold by the yard here in the United States is called Headliner fabric (used on the ceilings of cars and trucks when refurbishing them) It performs just like Soft and Stable but has the lightweight knit fabric fused to just one side of the foam material which makes no difference when inside the bag. It was a bit cheaper than the Soft and Stable too.

Geta, postul asta este genial, si vad ca la comentarii s-au mai adunat cateva informatii! Multumesc ca o persoana care a facut vreo 2 genti in viata ei si care poate va mai face vreodata, acum ca sunt atatea materiale la indemana. Cele doua gentute noi au iesit minunate. Duminica placuta!

Geta, thank you so much for helping to clear up what for me has been a very confusing issue. I have used the fusible fleece but haven't tried any of the other products. I will definitely know what I'm doing on my next bag that I make instead of just guessing. Thanks again for sharing your knowledge and experience with us!

Thank you so much for posting this interface information for quilted bags. I just tried a quick swatch {that only took 30 minutes) Wow!!! what a wonderful difference. I used a thick interface and wonder under both swatch pieces, high loft. Sandwich the loft, and used my walking for and followed you design idea. The piece holds a stiff flexible finish. Once again Wow!!!! I am using a fleece iron on batting for the final project. Thank you so much for taking the confusing out of making a quilt bag, making this project fun.

Great info!!! I have wondered many times the difference between the Thermolam and the regular quilting fusible fleece. Thanks to you and your blog, I now know the difference. Thank you so much for all the information that you share!!

Interfacing is a fabric which is used to make certain parts of a garment more stable. It is used as an additional layer which is applied to the inside of garments, such as collars, cuffs, waistbands and pockets, helping to add firmness, shape, structure, and support to the clothes.

There are so many different types of interfacing fabrics to choose from, it can be quite overwhelming. In general, interfacing comes in two main types, fusible or sew-in, as well as three main weaves (non-woven, woven and knit), and different weights. When designing your piece, it is important to make the right choice, as this decision can really influence the final look of your garment.

Unlike fusible interfacing, this fabric does not have a glue backing, so you have to sew it in and attach it yourself. It can be sewn onto the main fabric just like another normal layer of fabric, often resulting in a more natural shape and drape without any stiffness to it. This type of interfacing is ideal when you have a fabric that cannot be ironed or has texture.

However, if you are working on beginner sewing projects, you will be absolutely fine with fusible interfacing. Only use sew-in interfacing if you are completely comfortable handling multiple layers of fabric on the sewing machine. You do not want to adversely affect the shaping of the garment and give it a poor finish.

In most dressmaking projects you should only need to use lightweight interfacing which is perfectly suitable. However, if you are working with stiffer cottons like poplin or shirting, medium weight interfacings are a much better option. Heavy weight interfacing is normally only needed when making jackets or coats, or for adding structure to hats or bags.

If you enjoy working on bag and tote projects, interfacing can be utilised for these too - not just dressmaking. With the right pattern you can create the most gorgeous backpacks, clutches, handbags and more, and interfacing is an essential part of that process. The same way interfacing benefits clothing garments, they also add structure and strength to the fabric, making soft, flexible or stiff, rigid bags you are guaranteed to fall in love with.

If you would like to purchase interfacing fabric, you should visit the Fabrics Galore website. We have a variety of interfacing fabrics for dressmaking and crafting in both light and medium weights, and different neutral colours including black, white, cream, beige and grey, all perfect for your next crafting project.

However, if you are struggling to make a decision on which one to choose, we would be more than happy to help. We can help you establish whether fusible interfacing is right for you, what weight of interfacing you should buy, and what colour is most appropriate for your garment. To have a chat with a member of our team, please feel free to give us a call on 020 7738 9589, and we would be happy to assist.

Similarly, interfacing can add structure to bags, costumes, or any other architectural detail. Say you want a silk evening clutch. Made out of only cloth, it would be like a pocket. It would sag and distort when you put things in it. Interfacing is what gives a purse the ability to hold a shape.

Even stretch garments have structure, and knit interfacing (which is mildly stretchy) will reinforce areas that fabric might need help holding a shape (such as around a neckline). You can also use woven interfacing to completely eliminate stretch, when necessary. (For example, if putting a zipper in a knit fabric, you must reinforce the seam with interfacing. Or if making a bag, which must be rigid, you can interface stretch fabric to make it suitable.)

Choosing the correct interfacing for your sewing project can often seem like a daunting task, especially considering the plethora of options available. However, by keeping a few key factors in mind, you can navigate this process more easily and select the interfacing that best suits your needs.

This is crucial as lightweight fabrics generally require a lightweight interfacing to maintain their drape and flow. In contrast, heavier fabrics can handle a sturdier interfacing, which can provide the structure these materials need. Pairing a heavyweight interfacing with a delicate fabric could lead to undesirable stiffness, while a lightweight interfacing might not provide enough support for a robust fabric.

Some materials, such as synthetic ones, may not tolerate the heat of a fusible interfacing and would fare better with a sew-in version. On the other hand, fabrics that can withstand high temperatures may benefit from the quick application and firm bond of fusible interfacing.

Medium-weight interfacing is a versatile choice, compatible with a wide range of fabrics. It provides a balance of rigidity and flexibility, perfect for most common fabric types like cotton or linen. Medium interfacing works well with fabrics used in crafting shirts, dresses, or household items that need a little structure but still maintain a soft, natural feel.

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