Bead 1.8k
Emir Ballard
The observation was that when a mesh tile is placed directly underneath a liquid pump, the output becomes a tile of liquid rather than the ordinary behavior of entering another dimension until it hits something.
To make easily make a bead, place a mesh tile just below a liquid vent. Use 10g or more per packet. Because beads can sometimes split when interacting with other things, you may want to use 20g-200g per packet if you care.
There are a lot of drawbacks to this method. I don't think it's even possible to seal it from the top. To do the real job you should probably use the double liquid one. But at least you can make fancy jelly waterfalls.
I've spent the last few days analyzing liquid mechanics ( @f4rtux is hoping to add the key liquid mechanics properties to -db.com/ soon, and I'll be posting my findings too). The previous attempts failed because of the following rule:
The above waterfall was an experiment to prove my theory. The key to make this work is to get the right most waterfall formed before you start the next. You do have to build waterfall from right to left, but you can make some gorgeous looking things.
FYI, for those hoping to use this in base at some point ( @Cairath I'm thinking of you) the bottom of the fall looks like a complete mess.. I think I would use mini liquid pumps to catch the liquid, mid fall, rather than let it hit the ground (as once it does, the multi liquid mayhem is quite a mess, propogate upwards and break the fall...).
No. However it will reform by itself upon save load. However, an adaptation of the bead pump (not this EZ bead) can persist upon save load (and with a slight modification, thanks to my dive into liquid mechancis) you can make the waterfall off either the left or right side now. I'll explain more why the following works in my liquid mechanics post (coming soon).
With the above structure, (both sides, left side, right side), you can make the waterfall persist upon save/load. It's all about making sure the quantity of liquid in the top middle tile stays above a specific threshold.
Mesh tiles do nothing to help. My guess is the splurginess you refer to has to do with the fact that mesh tiles can force liquid to bead (when leaving vents) instead of dripping (disappearing from game and falling till it hits a tile and then zooms upwards to the top of whatever lake it is in).
Solid tiles (which airflow counts as here) will convert beading liquid into drip form. The middle tile, under the salt water, just collects the salt water which then drips off both sides. The key is to make sure there is zero contact with the liquid below, and the waterfall. One single bead of water in either the salt or petro columns, will cause problems for ages....
I'd love to make it less "Janky", and hopefully provide a clear understanding, similar to @Yothiel and @wachunga's work with heat transfer. If anyone knows of post that makes this clear, please direct me. I've got a monster post (been forming it in GoogleDocs for the past few days) coming.
I guess I'll finish with a picture of a 4 wide, and 5 wide, waterfall that is stable upon load. Getting things stable with different liquids is tricky, especially if the "min horizontal flow" (see here) is different (water and salt have 0.01, whereas crude and petro have 0.1). If you want a single liquid waterfall, and you want it to persist upon load, then 300g/s on each of the vents exiting above the naptha, and 10g/s on the vents above the mesh tiles, will get you a stable waterfall. With these same ratings, you can mass produce this structure to just about any size, provided your "min horizontal flow" rating is 0.01 (water, salt water, brine, polluted water, super coolant, etc.). You could even do this with liquid oxygen.... To get a petro waterfall, just multiply the 300g/s by 10 to get 3000g/s (since 0.1 = 10 * 0.01). You can leave the 10g/s valves alone, infact they can probably be set to zero at this point and never used again (they are needed to jump start the right facing water fall, but then are not needed, and 10g/s is the min amount that will persist as its own bead).
Hey I'm looking to get a good set of tire irons and a bead buddy or two for changing tires. I'll be doing my tires along with friends tires. My personal preference is Maxxis tires, and I know how stiff the side walls are on them. Can anyone recommend a good set of tire irons along with sizes I might need? Doing tires on 65cc to 250cc MX bikes. How many bead buddies should I get? 1? 2? 3?
Get tire spoons like the Motion Pro spoons. The tire irons can pop tubes easier and are less forgiving. One beadbuddy should work. Also buy baby powder for the inside of the tire and on the tube. I use dishwashing liquid mixed with water for a lube on the tire bead. A valve core tool is also required.
Some valve stem caps have the ability to remove valve stems. Baby powder for the tube, windex to help get the tire on (don't carry on trail), extra valve stems in case one is lost on the trail, patch kit, "2nd wind" co2 & hand pump combo... lightweight 21" tube to use for trail emergency's for either front or back tires.
My cousin has some tusk tire irons and they're too thick to work with IMO. The motion pros are as strong (probably stronger) than the tusk irons but not as thick making them alot easier to work with. I used a couple buddy's motion pro tire irons (8" I believe) and bought a 18" one and the tube change was relatively straightfoward. A bead buddy would have helped a bit
:icon54:Just Wandering If Anyone Has Ever Heard Of Beadblasting Piston Domes And Combustion Chambers To Reduce Carbon Buildup During Engine Operation My Friend At Work Builds Motors And Says This Will Reduce Buildup As Well As Let The Piston Top And Chamber To Run Cooler...any Input On This By Known Engine Builders Out There!!!!!!
I GUESS IM TALKIN ABOUT GLASS BEAD. IM SEEING THERE ARE A FEW PEOPLE DOING THIS ON THE INTERNET IT APPEARS THAT THE PROCESS SOMEWHAT PEINS THE TOP OF PISTON AND MAKES ITS MOLECULES MORE COMPRESSED MAKING THE ALUMINUM DENSER/STRONGER....ANYBODY OUT THERE DONE THIS SEEMS LIKE A GOOD IDEA FOR TURBOS OR HIGH COMPRESSION MOTORS ANYTHING BORDERLINE DETONATION!!
Well, I am immediately cautious that's for sure. I would be especially interested in whether or not "beadbalsting" will remove the parent material. Piston crowns are obviously very crucial and have an Engineered thickness that I would not compromise. If you thin the crown you open the door for material to reach its melting point faster. However, that said I go back to my initial question: Does it remove parent material? If so, I'd let you friend blast all the pistons he wants and hide yours from him.
Furthermore, I cannot see how this will reduce any future deposits. IF you used a coarse enough of a media you would actually be giving future deposits more "tooth" to grab onto. Not less. Sure, cleaning them off would be a breeze but I don't see the problem with soaking my piston crowns in carb cleaner (or similar) and utilizing a near by scotch bright pad.
Polishing the combustion chambers and piston tops to a mirror finish is a common practice. It helps with heat transference and reflectance and the removal of sharp edges in the chamber also reduces detonation problems.It doesn't make a huge difference but its one of those little tricks.
Glass beading will imbed into the aluminum pistons and will score your cylinders like crazy! Regardless of how much you clean them afterwards. The best alternative is walnut shell blasting or nothing at all but solvent baths!
L. Reiter enquired about cleaning(scraping) pistons a hardwood wedge makes an ideal scraper when de-coking crowns in-situ. Won't damage the bore, easily sharpened with a rasp and material is cheap (screwdrivers and chisels are phillistine-gouges and scratches).
Years ago, Continental Motors(aircraft) found that polished pistons had a higher failure rate than ones with a dull finish. The reason was of the boundary layer that insulated the piston crown from the combustion heat. A polished crown would absorb heat and melt/burn thru. I've wrapped pistons with duct tape over the ring lands & skirt surfaces and bead blasted(cleaned) the crown surface with no failures and minimum carbon build-up.
Another old process that may be of interest to the trident/goldie crowd with sleeved liners is Koethurizing-a shot peen process for pistons. The piston is expanded in a jig about 3-5 thou. A nozzle sprays steel shot inside the piston in a circular pattern up inside the skirt. The piston is allowed to 'grow' a few thou against the confines if the jig (looks like a little circular clamp, adjusted for desired clearance) Saves having to rebore when a little slop or clatter is the problem. Knurling is just a cheap shortcut and warps the piston. The shot peening also stress relieves and stabilizes. -FWIW
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