How To Read Toyota Obd2 Codes Without Scanner

[Vickiana Sconyers]

FlashingCheck Engine Light: If your check engine light blinks, it could indicate a severe problem, potentially a misfiring engine. The best course of action is to pull over immediately and contact roadside assistance or towing to bring the vehicle to an ASE Certified mechanic, repair shop, or car dealership.

The onboard diagnostics system allows drivers and technicians to assess vehicle health and safety quickly and effectively through an OBD-2 scanner. Scan tools are available at most auto parts stores, and some locations will perform a complimentary scan. Once accessed, the OBD-2 (or OBD-II) scanner can give information about the check engine light and the vehicle identification number (VIN), calibration identification number, and other crucial vehicle information.

If you do not have access to an automotive diagnostic scanner, there are alternative ways to read codes without a scanner. Although these are not ideal, using your odometer or ignition key can effectively retrieve diagnostic trouble codes to determine the cause of your check engine light.

The ignition key is one of the more commonly used ways of diagnosing check engine light trouble codes without an OBD-2 scanner. However, while this method is easy, it takes careful observation to determine the DTC. If your vehicle is OBD-2 capable, the trouble code should appear within the odometer display, as in the methods above.

If any of the methods above were unsuccessful, your vehicle might not support the OBD-2 diagnostic system. However, there are ways to access the OBD-1 codes using only a paperclip or a jumper wire and following these steps:

Although there are ways to check engine light codes without a code scanner, the easiest and most effective way is to use an OBD-2 scanner. If one is unavailable, auto part stores sometimes offer a complimentary scan to help you identify the cause of your check engine light.

However, even if you have the engine scanner codes, the trouble codes are sometimes generic and cannot be used for a complete and accurate diagnosis. Taking your vehicle to an ASE Certified mechanic, repair shop, or car dealership is an effective way to identify the cause of the check engine light code and have it repaired to get you back on the road.

While many drivers may be tempted to ignore the check engine light or procrastinate on taking a trip to the shop, especially if the vehicle seems to be driving smoothly, in reality, it could indicate a severe problem that should be addressed immediately. Operating your vehicle with even minor problems could lead to more serious issues, like a blown catalytic converter, irreversible damage to oxygen sensors (O2 sensors), or other expensive engine repairs. Ignoring a problem can result in potentially thousands of dollars worth of expensive engine repairs. An extended warranty or auto protection plan can help protect you from unexpected costly engine repairs.

In addition, Endurance coverage plans offer more than just financial protection against mechanical failures. Every plan comes with additional benefits, including 24/7 roadside assistance and towing, a choice of repair locations, a risk-free 30-day money-back guarantee, trip interruption coverage, substitute transportation, and more. Endurance customers can also access even more savings by activating their Endurance Elite Benefits, which include one year of FREE benefits, like tire repairs or replacements, key fob replacements, collision discounts, total loss protection, and more.

After more than 16 years as a technician and service advisor, Adam Karner transitioned to the auto protection industry in 2009. As a Product Manager for Endurance Dealer Services, he brings valuable hands-on experience. Read more about Adam.

I was doing re-initialation of the ecu, clutch and the transmission, with this guide: -multi-mode-transmission-mmt.pdf . So basically I connected the OBD ports 4th port in upper row to 4th port from the right in the bottom row with jumper cable, and put ignition ON and pumped break pedal 7 times fast, and the computer shows me "Diag code FF VSC" and sound beeps 3 times in a row repeatedly. Is this message somekind of fault message? How can i look my active fault codes with thiskind of jumper cable fix without actual OBD2 reader? Is the 3 and 3 sounds somekind of code, or should i be looking the blinking lights if there is somekind of code there? Or is this message just related somehow to "failed to reinitialie the transmission"?

I had an issue at cold when i started to drive without gas, the car should creep forward. But when the engine is cold, the engine would almost stutter (engine almost shutdown) when creeping forward without gas.. so it seemed maybe the clutch maybe released too fast or then too low idle gas... Also other way around when cold when immediately pressing gas pedal on take off the car would thump twice and almost tires squeek.. so again would seem that the clutch is released almost immediately (too fast)..

I did the ECU, clutch and transmission initialization manually, and now it seem to creep forward more slowly than before. I think the initializations reseted the configs.. Shouldn't the robot now relearn the clutch biting point after this initialization? Or is the clutch / actuator starting to go bad.. good news is that its only doing this when cold..

Yeah i tihnk you are exatly right. I've noticed that too that when high moisture it does this. Just wondering what equipment causes the "double thump" in take off when cold.. it would definately feel like the clutch is released fast.. but i'd think that it would "thump" just once then.. I can try to upload a video of me taking off with cold car when it does the double thump / plump whatever u wanna call it..

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I want to try and read the data from the engine OBD and out put eventually in Arudino.

I'm new to some big parts of this project, so seeking for some help.

I found this post, which shows how to connect a COM cable to the DLC1 connector on the car in order to use there s/w:

Also, he mentions in the instructions of the s/w that u should not use a laptop but a grounded computer?

I do not have a desktop that I can use , can I ground some other section with a rode to the floor- or something like that ?

As I recall OBD I trouble codes are pretty primitive. There are 2 pins on the OBD connector that will output a series of long and short outputs, somewhat like morse code. All you'll have to do is monitor the long and short flashes and interperet them as a code. The tricky part is that all manufactuers use different connectors and different codes. You'll have to spend some time searching to get the pin out, how to read the codes and what the codes represent. I'd look for the pin out for the same year and model vehicle as I don't have much confidence that even within the same manufacturer there was much consistancy where OBD I was concerened. Youtube and google will get you the info you need pretty quickly on how to connect to the vehicle.

Regarding the ground situation, I'd follow the recommendation to use a PC with a ground, you can't just take a wire and touch it to the ground, that's not what a ground is. Optionally you could build an interface with an opto isolator or relay that would isolate the PC from the vehicle so grounding wouldn't be an issue, but that's going to require more hardware and a better understanding of electronics.

Are you attempting to troubleshoot a particular problem on a specific vehicle or is this an academic exercise? If you're an aspiring shadetree mechanic it's probably best to try and address the symptoms directly instead of expecting the ECU to tell you what the problem is. OBD I codes are not very useful for a mechanic, it's more productive to check for fuel, air and spark.

Hi, thanks for the fast the extensive reply.

I thought the same, that the OBD1 had only the error code that u can get bu shorting 2 terminals, and "counting" the blinks of the check engine light.

BUT ... both the web page I posted (that I got the link out of a forum - that some one posted) they claim in some of the old ODB1 did have data in it.

For example note the following video (yes I know this on is a honda - but still) ...

Some manufacturers did have live data available through OBD 1, but OBD 1 wasn't a widely agreed upon standard in the industry so some manufacturers will have a bit of data, others have nothing. OBD 1 predates widespread use of the internet and was relatively short lived so it's somewhat tough to find info on what you can actually do with it aside from make the check engine light blink.

be careful the ELM327 USB interface only specifies OBD 2, I'm not sure if an adapter cable to make the diagnostic port connector interface with the scanner will be of any use, the difference between OBD 1 and OBD 2 is more than just the connector, I suspect that there are significant difference in the way data is sent that makes an OBD 2 scanner unable to read OBD 1 codes unless the scanner is designed to do both, it might be a waste of $16 to buy something that is only for OBD 2. Around here there are a number of auto parts stores that will loan you a code scanner (OBD I or OBD II), if you have a parts store with a loaner tool program it would be better to borrow a professional tool to see if the data is present before spending any money.

My hope will be that the combination of the OBDII 2 USB connector -which I'm guessing is some form of SERIAL TO USB connection - with the s/w I found on the web (that can communicate with com ports) will do the trick.

After hours of reading and trial and error I can tell for sure that the data is there ... now I'm trying to read it using an arduino mega.

But having some issues since they have a different pattern for the serial - then one that I could find on the begin command.

I know its baud 96 (100) ...

I made several attempts of reading the data (via Seral1 - baud 100 in all the 2 end bit options) and sending it to the computer via the Serial.

I get an output but can not make a pattern out of it - and I'm guessing it has to do with the starting 16bit + 4bit as shown in the PDF.

Any one can help me out with a code that might help me over come this issue ?

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