Rosin-pressure balance

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Oscar

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Nov 25, 2011, 5:12:05 AM11/25/11
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Hi all, I know this is a tricky issue, depending on many factors, but
in general:

Do you prefer "less rosin-more pressure" or "more pressure-less
rosin"?

I have had some intonation problems lately, and after wiping well the
wheel with alcohol, re-rosining softly again, changing cotton and
adding a bit of pressure, the clean and precise sound came back. I
think I had too much rosin and not the adequate pressure.

Thinking about bowed instruments it seems you get a good sound with
soft pressure, good speed and a well rosined bow.

What is your experience?

Cheers,

Oscar.

Geoff Turner

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Nov 25, 2011, 5:16:13 AM11/25/11
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Osar,
 
I'm sure that there are probably as many opinions on this as there are variable factors involved, but here's my way of doing things.
 
Without cotton, adjust the string pressure so that they are just touching the wheel and just sound when the crank is turned.
 
Then apply the thinnest coating of cotton possible.
 
Then adjust the rosin so that the sound is good.
 
I personally think that correct cottoning and string pressure are the two most importnat factors here.

Regards
Geoff Turner 
 

Oscar

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Nov 25, 2011, 5:45:52 AM11/25/11
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Hi Geoff, thanks for your reply, yes, I think it is good to
periodically do that, to start adjusting from zero point again as you
mention, that's what I did. With time, rosin and dirt build up,
soundboard and bridge move, etc.
Regarding the higher octave, apart from pressure and rosin, it is
important to have the string touching the whole surface of the wheel.
Usually the string touches more on the bridge side and the upper
octave is squeaky. Then you try to make it clean lifting the wheel but
lose the full sound in the low keys... this also happened to me, and
lowering a bit the nut worked like a charm.

Ulrich Joosten

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Nov 25, 2011, 5:50:08 AM11/25/11
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>>>I personally think that correct cottoning and string pressure are the two most importnat factors here.

well said, Geoff!

My personal opinion/taste: less string pressure, well rosined (I prefer liquid rosin) and the cotton as thin as possible. Not always easy to realize.

For me the the hight-adjustable bridge for melody strings is really an easing unit. 

Regards,
Ulrich

Augusto de Ornellas Abreu

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Nov 25, 2011, 8:11:01 AM11/25/11
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Then what is the trick for getting a good (non screeching) sound on the upper octave (above the high c on a g/c instrument, those last pesky tiny keys)? Any cottoning tricks?

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Geoff Turner

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Nov 25, 2011, 8:14:55 AM11/25/11
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Only to make it a very thin layer on the string, a good cotton, and an even covering right across the width of the wheel.

Geoff Turner

Arle Lommel

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Nov 25, 2011, 3:24:06 PM11/25/11
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This topic always gets me on my soapbox, but I'd like to point out one critical aspect of rosining that I've seen forgotten by many good players: You need a very smooth surface on your rosin block. Most problems with “too much rosin” arise because the rosin has built up unevenly on the surface of the wheel and made ridges that break and leave jagged chunks on the surface. The result is the dreaded scratchy too-much-rosin sound. By contrast, if you use a block with a smooth surface and apply it by moving the block back and forth across the face of the wheel while turning it, you can apply tremendous amounts of rosin because these ridges do not build up and you won't end up with this problem.

I've seen far too many players—including good ones—applying rosin with broken little chunks that they stick on the wheel and leave in one place. As a result I personally think that inadequate rosin is likely to be a bigger problem than most people realize: they are so scared of putting too much on that they end up using too little. The amounts of rosin I put on my wheel would startle many players, but I *never* have problems with too much because of the way I apply it.

Leading back to the original question, I think "less rosin-more pressure" vs. "more pressure-less rosin" is a false dichotomy if you know how to apply the rosin. You shouldn't ever need more pressure to accommodate a lack of rosin. Similarly, if your pressure is high enough that a good coat of rosin leads to too much “bite” from the wheel and a bad tone, you have too much pressure, period. All the rosin is doing is revealing that the pressure was too high. If the pressure is right, you should be able to add as much rosin as you want—provided you do it properly—and not have problems. If you keep the pressure low because your rosining tends to cause problems, it's probably the way the rosin is applied.

In other words, my opinion is that you set the pressure right and properly-applied rosin won't impact it. I know others on the list whom I respect greatly may disagree with my opinion, so take what I write as just an expression of my experience and opinion. Even if you disagree with me about whether too much rosin can be a problem, I do think it's worth looking at your rosining technique if you are having trouble with too much rosin: applying rosin evenly and neatly can only help.

Incidentally, if you have a rosin cake that has been good but gets chipped or broken, an easy fix is to take a kitchen torch (like you use to caramelize the top of creme brûlée) and heat the rosin. It will melt the surface and smooth out the chipped/broken area. You don't want it so hot that it burns the rosin, but rather just enough to liquify it and allow it to flow into a smooth surface, so go slowly. I've saved a number of cakes of rosin this way.

-Arle

Arle Lommel

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Nov 25, 2011, 3:30:53 PM11/25/11
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Geoff's advice is very good. Just one small quibble with it. If you are using a very thin string like Neil Brook’s Wonder String, you may find that the best results come from applying cotton only to about a quarter to half the width of the wheel on the bridge side. If you'll forgive my ASCII art, something like this:


                             Cotton
String => -------------------|||||--------
                    _____________       ^
Wheel =>           |             |     | |
                   |             |     | |  <= Bridge



(Hope that transfers in some way that makes sense.)

-Arle

JULIE BARKER

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Nov 26, 2011, 8:58:51 AM11/26/11
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Firstly, thank you for the tip about smoothing the rosin with a blowtorch, I will get myself a torch and give it a try, then I'll celebrate with a well-earned creme brulee.
I think that the differences of opinion re amount of rosin could be down to the differences in wheel construction. When I played Chris Eaton gurdies with laminated wheels I needed to use a lot more rosin than I need on my Boudet, where the rim of the wheel is cut from solid wood; however, I do agree that some of us, myself included, do allow our rosin to deteriorate beyond what is good for the sound; not too much of a problem when an edgy rock and roll sound is required but less than ideal when you want a sweet controlable sound.

Philip G Martin aka Drohne
www.drohne.co.uk

--- On Fri, 25/11/11, Arle Lommel <arle....@gmail.com> wrote:
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Billy Horne

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Nov 28, 2011, 3:00:11 PM11/28/11
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Hi,
Very interesting,what about the use of  strings that have  different "tensions" ie.  low ,medium, high. How does this effect /affect the situation.
Billy Horne

Oscar

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Nov 30, 2011, 7:21:46 AM11/30/11
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In my experience, a higher tension string, like thomastik spirocore
viola 3rd for low G has allowed me to use less string pressure,
without losing much punch.
On the other hand, I remember I read somewhere in the old mailing
list, the importance of having an even pressure of the string on the
wheel, and how often the upper octave sounds scratchy / out of tune
due to the string pressing more on the bridge side; thus the need for
filing or sanding down a bit the nut. I have been experimenting with
that lately with good results.

On 28 nov, 21:00, Billy Horne <horne.bi...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Hi,
> Very interesting,what about the use of  strings that have  different
> "tensions" ie.  low ,medium, high. How does this effect /affect the
> situation.
> Billy Horne
>
> On 26 November 2011 15:58, JULIE BARKER <dro...@btinternet.com> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> > Firstly, thank you for the tip about smoothing the rosin with a blowtorch,
> > I will get myself a torch and give it a try, then I'll celebrate with a
> > well-earned creme brulee.
> > I think that the differences of opinion re amount of rosin could be down
> > to the differences in wheel construction. When I played Chris Eaton gurdies
> > with laminated wheels I needed to use a lot more rosin than I need on my
> > Boudet, where the rim of the wheel is cut from solid wood; however, I do
> > agree that some of us, myself included, do allow our rosin to deteriorate
> > beyond what is good for the sound; not too much of a problem when an edgy
> > rock and roll sound is required but less than ideal when you want a sweet
> > controlable sound.
>
> > Philip G Martin aka Drohne
> >www.drohne.co.uk
>
> > --- On *Fri, 25/11/11, Arle Lommel <arle.lom...@gmail.com>* wrote:
> > To post to this group, send email to hurdy...@googlegroups.com<http://uk.mc864.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=hurdy...@googlegroups.com>

> > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
> > hurdygurdy+...@googlegroups.com<http://uk.mc864.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=unsubscribe@googlegroups...>
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