[HG-new] Capos

[LVJay]

I understand how a capo works on a guitar, and it seems to me that
having them for the HG strings would be quite useful.

So, let me ask the players out there; how often do you find yourself
actually using capos?

Is it worth shelling out a big chunk of cash to have capos made for my
first instrument, or should I wait to see how I do with it first?

Jay

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[VonH...@aol.com]

That depends on if you are really going to use them. I capo strings frequently on my new instrument and almost never on my French HGs. It really depends on what you are using it for. You can generally capo a drone or trompette string using something as simple as a wood clothes pin. There are some nice sliding capos available as well. If you are referring to capoing the melody strings, that is a different story. It might be better to just have different strings in the key that you want.

 

Scott

[Ulrich Joosten]

Hi there,

Scott is right: it depends...

I use capos very frequently and for me it was the same question when I ordered my Alto. I decided to have the capos and they are woth every cent. For my opinion it is better to have capos built in from the very beginning made by the luthier who know his instruments and possibilities best. My capo system can rise drone and trumpet strings pair-wise for one tone. I have three pairs of strings that can be capoed: deep C drone / high G trumpet; middle C drone / c trumpet / G drone / G trumpet. Also I have 2 little hooks to capo meloey strings on the first and the third tangent – which is also very handy and brings a lot of possibilities.

Uli


Am 30.04.10 02:08 schrieb "VonH...@aol.com" unter <VonH...@aol.com>:

That depends on if you are really going to use them. I capo strings frequently on my new instrument and almost never on my French HGs. It really depends on what you are using it for. You can generally capo a drone or trompette string using something as simple as a wood clothes pin. There are some nice sliding capos available as well. If you are referring to capoing the melody strings, that is a different story. It might be better to just have different strings in the key that you want.

Scott

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[Dave Holland]

On Thu, Apr 29, 2010 at 05:01:17PM -0700, LVJay wrote:
> So, let me ask the players out there; how often do you find yourself
> actually using capos?

On my G/C gurdy, I often use the capo to change the trompette up from
C to D - it makes playing along with melodeons more pleasant all
round!

I'm considering getting a capo retrofitted to the C bourdon to achieve
the same thing, because it's too fierce if tuned up a tone; and the G
bourdon is too flabby if dropped a fourth.

Cheers,
Dave

[Simon Wascher]

Hello,

Am 30.04.2010 um 02:01 schrieb LVJay:
> So, let me ask the players out there; how often do you find yourself
> actually using capos?

For a traditional G/C instrument a capo for the trompette (c' to d')
is more or less mandatory - even if some makers simply just ignore this.
It allows to play the trompette with the setting in G as well as in C
without changing the strings properties.

I personally use the following capos a lot: for the drones: C to D, E
to F, G to A and for the trompettes c' to d', g to a, e' to f#' (this
setup varies a bit depending on the context, as regular readers of my
posting might recognize).

I have got a simple capo for the chanters too, a simple arrestor that
fits into a slot within the slide, but this I rarely use. I prefer to
just use my fingers on the keys :-)

> Is it worth shelling out a big chunk of cash to have capos made for my
> first instrument, or should I wait to see how I do with it first?

I personally think the capos should not cost a fortune and can be
installed later on. Preinstalled is only better if it is a capo system
that locks drone and trompette at once as Ulrich has. But I personally
prefer to be able to combine all pitches independent, like to allow a
none or dezim within the drones. This is better done with simple capos
that only change one string each.

You can easily buy such capos by pice as harp levers, I use Loveland
Nr. 4, 6 and 11 (for the drones). They are adjustable and reliable,
relatively easily accessed and installed as all you need is to screw
them on.
By the way, as far as I know, I was the first to come up with using
thouse Loveland levers about a decenium ago. I feel pleased that the
idea became popular, as these harp levers are a really reliable and
cheap solution built in hundreds of thousands and heavy duty tested
for us by all thouse nice harp players ;-)
(The Loveland ones act exactly as needed - not all harp levers act in
a way that suits the gurdy)

Kind regards,
Simon

[Arle Lommel]

Simon, do you have any opinion on Truitt levers for the HG? I've never been please with Loveland levers for various reasons, not the least of which is that I just don't like the way they look. I think that the Truitt levers look better and they are also not sensitive to the diameter of the string.

http://www.traditionalharps.com/HarpsGeneralTruitt.html

Any reason you think they wouldn't work?

-Arle

[Simon Wascher]

Am 30.04.2010 um 15:01 schrieb Arle Lommel:
> Simon, do you have any opinion on Truitt levers for the HG?

I have not seen thouse before, but from the photo
http://www.traditionalharps.com/graphics/Truitts1.JPG
I guess that the string gets pressed against the hook when the arm is
moved. Depending on the way the lever is attached this would to the
instrument mean that the string gets
a) lifted up
or
b) moved from the wheel

both movements are in my oppinion in conflict with a propper function
of the buzzing device.

S.

[Melissa Kacalanos]

It's very easy to capo melody strings, at least on my Hungarian hg. I can just press in a key, and jam it in place with a pencil eraser. I don't actually do this in practice, though. One thing to consider is that, if your hg's temperament is optimized for one key, it won't sound as good in other keys unless you retune all your tangents, which is a hassle. Melissa www.melissatheloud.com --- On Thu, 4/29/10, VonH...@aol.com <VonH...@aol.com> wrote:

[Leonard Williams]

I play a D/G instrument. I like to use a capo on the g drones to give me an
a for A Dorian, which crops up regularly. A capo for e on my d drone is
also very helpful. I use simple homemade wedges: they work fine, but tend
to drift. They main thing is that a capo should not move the string away
from its ideal situation at the wheel.

Regards,
Leonard Williams

[Leonard Williams]

How about these Jordan harp levers?

http://www.heritage-music.net/servlet/Detail?no=22

They claim to produce no sideways deflection of the string.

Regards,
Leonard Williams

[Simon Wascher]

Hello,

Am 30.04.2010 um 22:57 schrieb Leonard Williams:
> How about these Jordan harp levers?

> They claim to produce no sideways deflection of the string.

>> I have not seen thouse before, but from the photo

http://www.harpkit.com/Merchant2/graphics/shoppingcart/jordan_lever.jpg
one can see, that depending on how the lever is attached to the
instrument

>> the string gets
>> a) lifted up
>> or
>> b) moved from the wheel

>> both movements are in my oppinion in conflict with a propper function
>> of the buzzing device.

these Jordan harp levers basically act the same way than the Truitt
ones do (just without the hook as counter support).

[Barbara Currier]

I like this wedge idea. The only place I need a capo is on the trompette and I have an historic, so fancy new harp levers (which I'm quite familiar with, as 3 of my 5 harps have levers) would look odd. Could some sort of footing on the bottom of the wedge be helpfufl? Not sure what, but something that adds friction, my mind just went to a little square of silicon. Don't know if that's available, maybe something painted on? How about rosin?

All the Best,

Barbara 

On Fri, Apr 30, 2010 at 1:48 PM, Leonard Williams <arc...@verizon.net> wrote:

I play a D/G instrument.  I like to use a capo on the g drones to give me an
a for A Dorian, which crops up regularly.  A capo for e on my d drone is
also very helpful.  I use simple homemade wedges:  they work fine, but tend
to drift.  They main thing is that a capo should not move the string away
from its ideal situation at the wheel.

Regards,
Leonard Williams

[Leonard Williams]

       I saw pictured on the internet (sorry, I forget which site) a capo consisting of a very broad based wedge which could be slid into the correct tuning position.  This would probably have much greater stability (by virtue of increased surface contact with the soundboard) than my skinny bridge-like capos.  They should be easy to make; I intend to experiment with them.  Rosin sounds like it might help—any other suggestions??
        A problem I see with fixed capos such as harp levers is that they do not allow for fine tuning if desired.  Or so I believe such to be the case—I don’t have them on my gurdy.

[Simon Wascher]

Hello,

Am 01.05.2010 um 21:19 schrieb Leonard Williams:
> A problem I see with fixed capos such as harp levers is that they
> do not allow for fine tuning if desired. Or so I believe such to be
> the case—I don’t have them on my gurdy.

I've got them. And I can tell you thats not a problem. All (modern)
harp levers I know include some method of fine tuning (because its
needed for the harp!). Usually they are screwed down and the hole for
the screw is not round but a slot. For key based hurdy gurdy capos
there are also moveable nuts in use (for example Siorat,
Weichselbaumer). So, its no problem to fine tune the capo position.
And finally fine tuning still can be mannaged by retuning the string
(as usual).

I would like to point out, that the usage of harp levers is neither
theoretical nor new, it is settled common practice also by other
professional (for example Matthias Loibner) and non professional
players, since ten years or so at least.
The use of wooden capos, that function the same way as thouse harp
levers do, is common practice for as long as there are instruments
tuned to G/C, so, since the 1700 hundreds at least.

There are other reasons to discuss the method of capoing: The question
if its afforded to change drone and trompette at once or one by one,
the effect capos have on the intonation system, the space a capo
requires, the reliability, the ease of use, if it needs modifications
of the instrument, if its required to change the capo within one tune,
or for single tunes, or once in a while to play in one setup for a
number of tunes or a hole evening, the look of a capo.

If you look for the perfect capo for the gurdy it should:
not interfere with the string in open position
not move the string away from the wheel or much towards it but
Allow an adjustment for the horizontal angle of the string in closed
position
not change the (vertical) angles between string and soundboard (the
pressure of the chien against the soundbard)
not be higher than the distance between the strings (to use them on
neighbouring strings)
include some reproduceable method of fine tuning
be reliable over many years of usage
emergency-replaceable
be of adjustable firmness
effortless and handsome
beautyful
cheap
available

cheers,
Simon

[Simon Wascher]

Hello,

Am 01.05.2010 um 22:42 schrieb Simon Wascher:
Some more words on the Loveland levers (LL).

> If you look for the perfect capo for the gurdy it should:

> not interfere with the string in open position

the LL come in different sizes with different openings between the
bolt that blocks (a catch) and the arm that presses the string against
this catch. One can choose the size of the "horizontal" opening for
the vibrating string by choosing the size of the lever. With the LL
the basis is only a brass plate so also the "vertical" space for the
vibrating string is quite wide.

> not move the string away from the wheel or much towards it but
> Allow an adjustment for the horizontal angle of the string in closed
> position

Here the LL is a working compromise: The LL presses the string towards
the wheel a bit, which is effectively exactly whats needed to achive
near to identical reaction from the buzzing bridge when the string
gets shortened. The LL is ok for a range of about a third up from the
open string, depending on the strings amplitude. For capos higher up
the string the open strings amplitude gets in conflict with the
correct catch position for the closed capo. for capos higher up it
would be needed that the a catch also is moveable, to allow a big
opening with a small alteration of the a catch position.
Alternatively systems without a catch would be a solution.

> not change the (vertical) angles between string and soundboard (the
> pressure of the chien against the soundbard

The LL moves the string towards the wheel as described above, not up
or away.

> not be higher than the distance between the strings (to use them on
> neighbouring strings)

this is only an issue if more than one string needs to be shortened.
The LL is at the limit for general height, there are levers that are
"thinner", but the LL winns because only the thin brass plate is
positioned between the strings, unlike other capos where the base is
"thicker" narrowing the space for the vibrating string.

> include some reproduceable method of fine tuning

like all modern harp levers the LL comes with a built in fine tuning
system: the hole for the screw that fixes it is a slot, so the base of
the lever can be moved when the screw is slacken a bit.

> be reliable over many years of usage

about 35 levers are installed on one harp, and on the harp single
levers might get switched at each turn of a tune, and there are
thousands of harps out there. So, harp levers are really, really
tested heavy duty, for millions of times. Why invent the wheel if you
can allready order one?

> emergency-replaceable

the LL levers are made up from simple removeable parts, the screws are
standard parts, a spare lever is a cheap invetion. By the way till now
I did not manage to break one. Thouse who know me, know this means a
lot: they are (nearly?) unbreakable.

> be of adjustable firmness

a screw let adjust you how hard the arm gets moved.

> effortless and handsome

The LL has a second catch that limits the movement of the arm in both
positions open and closed. So it is really on and of. The switch is
done with a simple movement, no skillful finger adjustment. Assumed
the finetuning is done well, it is possible to switch the LL at any
moment whilst playing (as it gets done with the lever harps and
therefore is the case for all modern harp levers).

> beautyful

The LL is *not* beautiful. If someone comes up with a more beautiful
one, that equals the LL in its practical characteristics, I will switch.

> cheap

its cheap, about 10 $ each.

> available

its available per mailorder in 15 different sizes.

Close: I am in no private or economic relation with Loveland, I just
think they do a good job for the hurdy gurdy (supposedly without
knowing).
I sorted through numerous harp lever types, some of them are close
matches too, others are completely useless for the gurdy.
I belive its sensible to open our hurdy gurdy minds for the outside
world, for the solutions already arround, to be able to concentrate on
the unsolved problems, to get ourselves, the dwarfes, onto the
sholders of our ancestors and not to waste time inventing the wheel
from scratch.

[Leonard Williams]

Simon--
Concerning the harp levers that come in so many sizes: how can one
determine which size to use? I have access only to pictures on the
websites.

Regards,
Leonard

On 5/2/10 7:27 AM, "Simon Wascher" <20...@simonwascher.info> wrote:

> Hello,
>
> Am 01.05.2010 um 22:42 schrieb Simon Wascher:
> Some more words on the Loveland levers (LL).
>
>> If you look for the perfect capo for the gurdy it should:
>> not interfere with the string in open position
>
> the LL come in different sizes with different openings between the
> bolt that blocks (a catch) and the arm that presses the string against
> this catch. One can choose the size of the "horizontal" opening for
> the vibrating string by choosing the size of the lever. With the LL
> the basis is only a brass plate so also the "vertical" space for the
> vibrating string is quite wide.

[Simon Wascher]

Hello,

Am 02.05.2010 um 18:14 schrieb Leonard Williams:
> Concerning the harp levers that come in so many sizes: how can one
> determine which size to use?

I contacted a harp maker. From the string diameters he made a guess
what could work, the guess was good, it as what I still use:
Loveland Nr. 4 for the c'/d' capo, Nr. 6 for g/a, Nr. 8 for G drone
and Nr. 11 for the D drone.
I used a round file to enlarge the "mouth" of the Nr. 11 one a bit.

Contacting a harp maker is the best way to do it, as they usually can
also sell you single levers on the spot.

[Dave Holland]

On Sat, May 01, 2010 at 03:19:13PM -0400, Leonard Williams wrote:
> I saw pictured on the internet (sorry, I forget which site) a capo
> consisting of a very broad based wedge which could be slid into the correct
> tuning position. This would probably have much greater stability (by virtue
> of increased surface contact with the soundboard) than my skinny bridge-like
> capos. They should be easy to make; I intend to experiment with them.
> Rosin sounds like it might help‹any other suggestions??

They can work well though I found that for more than a tone's pitch
increase on my trompette the wedge would tend to wander, changing the
string pitch. Covering the base of the wedge with a thin piece of
rubber helped a bit. I suspect the shape and geometry of the
instrument control how well wedge capos work.

> A problem I see with fixed capos such as harp levers is that they do
> not allow for fine tuning if desired. Or so I believe such to be the case

Not so, as others have said. And you can tweak the tuning knob while
the capo's on which - if you have machine-head tuners - is pretty
satisfactory.

Cheers,
Dave

[Matthew Szostak]

Good discussion.

Anybody willing to show some pictures of their capo setups? It would
really clarify a lot of the descriptions, especially the "wedge" capos...

~ Matt

[Barbara Currier]

Yes, please. Craig made a wedge while I was at work, but wasn't the right size. I have a guitar-shaped hg. I can't rest the capo against the soundboard, as there isn't any in the spot I need to place it to raise the pitch one note. So, I guess it has to go against the key box. 

Barbara

. 

[Colin]

Sorry if these arrive twice. Seem to be having problems with replies
in email form - they don't get through. :(
My last two replies haven't appeared in my inbox nor on the web page
so I'm repeating them.
The first was a reply to make wedges anti-slip, the second to "what's
a wedge look like"

Colin Hill

I'm a wedge or clothes pin person. I too only use it on the trompette.
I have toyed with a few ideas (yet to be tried) of reducing the
friction so maybe you'll be the one to see if they work.
Thin rubber (maybe from an old bicycle inner tube) glued to the base
of the wedge.
Non-slip matting (used for trays to stop plates sliding around) - very
cheap (99p from Home Bargains for more than you'd ever need).
Neither of these should, in theory, mark the finish and the latter is
very slip-resistant (available in black or cream - it's a sort of
webbing construction) .
My final thoughts are the new silicon cookware - again, fairly cheap
and I just couldn't trust baking a cake in one anyway! There's also
special matting one can buy from a store selling goods for the
disabled which has more of a jelly (jello to those in the US) feel and
which holds plates and utensils very firmly to the tray. I did have
some of this which my late mother used but I think I threw it out
(when will I ever need that syndrome).
Should all work on either a clothes pin or a nicely made wedge of the
wood of choice.
I'm thinking of carving a nice little wedge capo out of some lignum or
ebony I have in my "don't throw away" box.
Thanks for getting my little grey cells working.



My wedge is just that - like a door wedge (or a wedge of cheese but
don't use that unless you snack while playing) made of wood Probably
about 5cm by 2cm and rising to the height is whatever the height of
the string is off the soundboard plus a teeny bit more (as it's a
wedge, it's able to allow for different heights) and the clothes pins
are also wooden and speak for themselves (the ones with a spring in
them, not the split wood ones). The weight of the string keeps it in
place.(usually). Doesn't seem to need any notches etc.
Can't see why any small object of the right size couldn't be used on a
trompette. It's only like a small bridge.
However, I use it occasionally only so wouldn't say if it would be
suitable for a whole evening of enthusiastic playing.
Maybe others use the term "wedge" to mean something different of
course so pics would be handy.

Colin Hill

On May 4, 4:58 pm, Barbara Currier <barbaracurr...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Yes, please. Craig made a wedge while I was at work, but wasn't the right
> size. I have a guitar-shaped hg. I can't rest the capo against the
> soundboard, as there isn't any in the spot I need to place it to raise the
> pitch one note. So, I guess it has to go against the key box.
>
> Barbara
>
>
>
> On Mon, May 3, 2010 at 4:47 PM, Matthew Szostak <gu...@midcoast.com> wrote:
> > Good discussion.
>
> > Anybody willing to show some pictures of their capo setups?  It would
> > really clarify a lot of the descriptions, especially the "wedge" capos...
>
> > ~ Matt
>
> > --
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[CWH]

I'm a wedge or clothes pin person. I too only use it on the trompette.

I have toyed with a few ideas (yet to be tried) of reducing the friction so maybe you'll be the one to see if they work.

Thin rubber (maybe from an old bicycle inner tube) glued to the base of the wedge.

Non-slip matting (used for trays to stop plates sliding around) - very cheap (99p from Home Bargains for more than you'd ever need).

Neither of these should, in theory, mark the finish and the latter is very slip-resistant (available in black or cream - it's a sort of webbing construction) .

My final thoughts are the new silicon cookware -  again, fairly cheap and I just couldn't trust baking a cake in one anyway! There's also special matting one can buy from a store selling goods for the disabled which has more of a jelly (jello to those in the US) feel and which holds plates and utensils very firmly to the tray. I did have some of this which my late mother used but I think I threw it out (when will I ever need that syndrome).

Should all work on either a clothes pin or a nicely made wedge of the wood of choice.

I'm thinking of carving a nice little wedge capo out of some lignum or ebony I have in my "don't throw away" box.

Thanks for getting my little grey cells working.

 

 

Colin Hill  

[CWH]

My wedge is just that -  like a door wedge (or a wedge of cheese but don't use that unless you snack while playing) made of wood Probably about 5cm by  2cm and rising to the height is whatever the height of the string is off the soundboard plus a  teeny bit more (as it's a wedge, it's able to  allow for different heights) and the clothes pins are also wooden and speak for  themselves (the ones with a spring in them, not the split wood ones). The weight of the string keeps it in place.(usually). Doesn't seem to need any notches etc.

Can't see why any small object of the right size couldn't be used on a trompette. It's only like a small bridge.

However, I use it  occasionally only so wouldn't say if it would be suitable for a whole evening of enthusiastic playing.

Maybe others use the term "wedge" to  mean something different of course so pics would be handy.

 

Colin Hill

 

 

----- Original Message -----

From: Barbara Currier

To: hurdy...@googlegroups.com

Sent: Tuesday, May 04, 2010 4:58 PM

Subject: Re: [HG-new] Capos

[CWH]

 

testing - my posts not coming through..

[Augusto de Ornellas Abreu]

all your messages eventually got through

it only took them longer, for some reason. I got some messages from you dating from 6, 8 hours ago

Just relax, all your messages are reaching everyone.

[Graham Whyte]

6 - 8 hours is a little long but happens regularily

I got a mail last week that was sent in DECEMBER 2005 !!!

I use Mozilla Thunderbird as my mail application
It dates and times incoming mail using the actual sent day
I often have an unread message which is way up the inbox list

Graham

[Leonard Williams]

I have just uploaded two pics to the website:

“Leonard’s Hurdy-gurdy” is my instrument: designed by Lyn Elder on a 15th century style; homemade from scratch by me.  D/G, Chanterelle 438mm, drones 457mm.  No trompette.  I know—the knob is not exactly a h-g piece, but without the trompette, perhaps it doesn’t matter :^)

The “Wedge Capo on mouche” is self explanatory, I think.

Regards,
Leonard Williams
           _
         [: :]
        / |  | \
       |  |  |  |
       (_==_)
           !~¿

On 5/4/10 1:16 PM, "CWH" <c....@virgin.net> wrote:

Maybe others use the term "wedge" to  mean something different of course so pics would be handy.

Colin Hill

 
----- Original Message -----

From:  Barbara Currier <mailto:barbara...@gmail.com>  
 
To: hurdy...@googlegroups.com  
 
Sent: Tuesday, May 04, 2010 4:58 PM
 
Subject: Re: [HG-new] Capos
 

Yes, please. Craig made a wedge while I was at work, but wasn't  the right size. I have a guitar-shaped hg. I can't rest the capo against the  soundboard, as there isn't any in the spot I need to place it to raise the  pitch one note. So, I guess it has to go against the key box.  

 
Barbara

 
On Mon, May 3, 2010 at 4:47 PM, Matthew Szostak <gu...@midcoast.com> wrote:
 

Good  discussion.

Anybody willing to show some pictures of their capo  setups?  It would
really clarify a lot of the descriptions,  especially the "wedge" capos...

~ Matt
 
 
 

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[Leonard Williams]

Oops—here’s the page  (the links themselves are rather long):


http://groups.google.com/group/hurdygurdy/files?upload=1

[Chris and Bi]

Who was in Whitby?

Last Saturday Michael Muskett was busking for Parkinson’s UK and afterwards a lady phoned him to say that someone in Whitby had played especially for her. She was so delighted with this and also to recognise the hurdy-gurdy that she anonymously made a contribution which brought the collection up to £130.00. Who was the mystery player?

Answers on a postcard to....

[CWH]

Looks like they had a log jam at Orange :D

[Oscar]

Hallo Simon,

I was recently looking for LL levers for g --> a in both trompette
and drone, but could not find where to buy them, even online.

Is there an online retailer for those levers? (I'll take your advice
for 6 and an 8 size)

Thanks a lot,

Oscar.

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[Simon Wascher]

Hello Oscar,

Am 12.05.2010 um 21:50 schrieb Oscar:
> I was recently looking for LL levers for g --> a in both trompette
> and drone, but could not find where to buy them, even online.
>
> Is there an online retailer for those levers? (I'll take your advice
> for 6 and an 8 size)

I bought mine from instrument makers directly so I never cared for how
to get them directly.
Mine come from http://klangwerkstatt.de I know that people got levers
from them by mail.
I suspect that Wolfgang Weichselbaumer also could send you some.
But I think the easiest way is to ask any lever harp maker you find if
he can send you the levers. As harpmakers usually also do postal
retail in strings, its no speacial effort for them to post you some
levers.

Regards,

Simon

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[Oscar]

Thanks a lot for your reply Simon, tuning up to A is a pain specially
for the drone, so I end up not playing some of the wonderful tunes in
that key.

Kind regards,

Oscar.

On 13 mayo, 14:43, Simon Wascher <2...@simonwascher.info> wrote:
> Hello Oscar,
>
> Am 12.05.2010 um 21:50 schrieb Oscar:
>
> > I was recently looking for LL levers for  g --> a in both trompette
> > and drone, but could not find where to buy them, even online.
>
> > Is there an online retailer for those levers?  (I'll take your advice
> > for 6 and an 8 size)
>
> I bought mine from instrument makers directly so I never cared for how  
> to get them directly.

> Mine come fromhttp://klangwerkstatt.deI know that people got levers  

> from them by mail.
> I suspect that Wolfgang Weichselbaumer also could send you some.
> But I think the easiest way is to ask any lever harp maker you find if  
> he can send you the levers. As harpmakers usually also do postal  
> retail in strings, its no speacial effort for them to post you some  
> levers.
>
> Regards,
> Simon
>
> --
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> Groups "hurdygurdy" group.
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