indoor photosphere

[Michael]

What I wish is to make a diagram of a house and then to make a photoshere of every room of this house. I'll then and put the appropriate photoshere in the corresponding room on the diagram. My local LUG says I should be able to do it but have not had any success in three days of trying. Can anyone help me out? I'm trying to do this of my living room first. Align will not find any control points and it doesn't work when I assign my own control points. I'm including the log file below:

-- 

:-)~MIKE~(-:

log file-

============================================

Stitching panorama...

============================================

Platform: Linux 3.19.0-32-generic x86_64

Version: 2015.0.0.cdefc6e53a58

Working directory: /home/bmike1/Pictures/Work/photospere test

Output prefix: 1DSC00100 - DSC00124-1

Blender: enblend 4.1.4

ExifTool version: 9.46

Number of active images: 25

Output exposure value: 7.8

Canvas size: 3000x1500

ROI: (0, 0) - (3000, 1500) 

FOV: 360x180

Projection: Equirectangular(2)

Using GPU for remapping: false

Panorama Outputs:

* Exposure corrected, low dynamic range

First input image

Number: 0

Filename: /home/bmike1/Pictures/Work/photospere test/DSC00100.JPG

Size: 4896x3672

Projection: Normal (rectilinear)

Response type: custom (EMoR)

HFOV: 152

Exposure value: 7.8

Remapping LDR images...

Multiple images output

loading DSC00100.JPG

remapping DSC00100.JPG

saving 1DSC00100 - DSC00124-10000.tif

loading DSC00101.JPG

remapping DSC00101.JPG

saving 1DSC00100 - DSC00124-10001.tif

loading DSC00102.JPG

remapping DSC00102.JPG

saving 1DSC00100 - DSC00124-10002.tif

loading DSC00103.JPG

remapping DSC00103.JPG

saving 1DSC00100 - DSC00124-10003.tif

loading DSC00104.JPG

remapping DSC00104.JPG

saving 1DSC00100 - DSC00124-10004.tif

loading DSC00105.JPG

remapping DSC00105.JPG

saving 1DSC00100 - DSC00124-10005.tif

loading DSC00106.JPG

remapping DSC00106.JPG

saving 1DSC00100 - DSC00124-10006.tif

loading DSC00107.JPG

remapping DSC00107.JPG

saving 1DSC00100 - DSC00124-10007.tif

loading DSC00108.JPG

remapping DSC00108.JPG

saving 1DSC00100 - DSC00124-10008.tif

loading DSC00109.JPG

remapping DSC00109.JPG

saving 1DSC00100 - DSC00124-10009.tif

loading DSC00110.JPG

remapping DSC00110.JPG

saving 1DSC00100 - DSC00124-10010.tif

loading DSC00111.JPG

remapping DSC00111.JPG

saving 1DSC00100 - DSC00124-10011.tif

loading DSC00112.JPG

remapping DSC00112.JPG

saving 1DSC00100 - DSC00124-10012.tif

loading DSC00113.JPG

remapping DSC00113.JPG

saving 1DSC00100 - DSC00124-10013.tif

loading DSC00114.JPG

remapping DSC00114.JPG

saving 1DSC00100 - DSC00124-10014.tif

loading DSC00115.JPG

remapping DSC00115.JPG

saving 1DSC00100 - DSC00124-10015.tif

loading DSC00116.JPG

remapping DSC00116.JPG

saving 1DSC00100 - DSC00124-10016.tif

loading DSC00117.JPG

remapping DSC00117.JPG

saving 1DSC00100 - DSC00124-10017.tif

loading DSC00118.JPG

remapping DSC00118.JPG

saving 1DSC00100 - DSC00124-10018.tif

loading DSC00119.JPG

remapping DSC00119.JPG

saving 1DSC00100 - DSC00124-10019.tif

loading DSC00120.JPG

remapping DSC00120.JPG

saving 1DSC00100 - DSC00124-10020.tif

loading DSC00121.JPG

remapping DSC00121.JPG

saving 1DSC00100 - DSC00124-10021.tif

loading DSC00122.JPG

remapping DSC00122.JPG

saving 1DSC00100 - DSC00124-10022.tif

loading DSC00123.JPG

remapping DSC00123.JPG

saving 1DSC00100 - DSC00124-10023.tif

loading DSC00124.JPG

remapping DSC00124.JPG

saving 1DSC00100 - DSC00124-10024.tif

Blending images...

enblend: info: loading next image: 1DSC00100 - DSC00124-10000.tif 1/1

enblend: info: loading next image: 1DSC00100 - DSC00124-10001.tif 1/1

enblend: warning: unable to run Dijkstra optimizer

enblend: info: seam-line end point outside of cost-image

enblend: info: loading next image: 1DSC00100 - DSC00124-10002.tif 1/1

enblend: info: loading next image: 1DSC00100 - DSC00124-10003.tif 1/1

enblend: info: loading next image: 1DSC00100 - DSC00124-10004.tif 1/1

enblend: info: loading next image: 1DSC00100 - DSC00124-10005.tif 1/1

enblend: info: loading next image: 1DSC00100 - DSC00124-10006.tif 1/1

enblend: info: loading next image: 1DSC00100 - DSC00124-10007.tif 1/1

enblend: info: loading next image: 1DSC00100 - DSC00124-10008.tif 1/1

enblend: info: loading next image: 1DSC00100 - DSC00124-10009.tif 1/1

enblend: info: loading next image: 1DSC00100 - DSC00124-10010.tif 1/1

enblend: warning: failed to detect any seam

enblend: mask is entirely black, but white image was not identified as redundant

enblend: info: remove invalid output image "1DSC00100 - DSC00124-1.tif"

[Sean Greenslade]

On Wed, Mar 09, 2016 at 11:50:17AM -0800, Michael wrote:
> *W*hat I wish is to make a diagram of a house and then to make a photoshere

> of every room of this house. I'll then and put the appropriate photoshere
> in the corresponding room on the diagram. My local LUG says I should be
> able to do it but have not had any success in three days of trying. Can
> anyone help me out? I'm trying to do this of my living room first. Align
> will not find any control points and it doesn't work when I assign my own
> control points. I'm including the log file below:

There are a bunch of tutorials that explain how to get started with
Hugin:

http://hugin.sourceforge.net/tutorials/index.shtml

Your log hints at the fact that you have probably not run the optimizer
to actually align the images. Use the Fast Preview window to see how the
final panorama should look after rendering.

> ...

> enblend: info: loading next image: 1DSC00100 - DSC00124-10010.tif 1/1
> enblend: warning: failed to detect any seam
> enblend: mask is entirely black, but white image was not identified as
> redundant
> enblend: info: remove invalid output image "1DSC00100 - DSC00124-1.tif"

--Sean

[Michael]

I was talking with my LUG group and they said the problem was that I hadn't taken my photographs from a tripod that rotates from the lens pupil. Meaning parallax would be bad in a field of view of about 6 feet. This problem results in 'align' not being able to find more than about 20 control points in 26 pictures. Also (for future reference), when I import photos some of them are upside down. How do I flip them?

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:-)~MIKE~(-:

[Carlos Eduardo G. Carvalho (Cartola)]

Indeed, taking the indoor pics without rotating around the lens pupil will bring huge difficulties in stitching, probably making it possible only with post edition.

You can try to use manual control points to improve it.

Carlos E G Carvalho (Cartola)
http://cartola.org/360
http://www.panoforum.com.br/

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[Michael]

I spent a long time doing that resulting in no improvements.

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[Sean Greenslade]

On Thu, Mar 10, 2016 at 07:48:24AM -0500, Michael wrote:
> I was talking with my LUG group and they said the problem was that I hadn't
> taken my photographs from a tripod that rotates from the lens pupil.
> Meaning parallax would be bad in a field of view of about 6 feet. This
> problem results in 'align' not being able to find more than about 20
> control points in 26 pictures. Also (for future reference), when I import
> photos some of them are upside down. How do I flip them?

Assuming you didn't move around while taking the pictures (camera stayed
in mostly the same place), then you'll have some artifacts but it should
work. Manually adding ~5 control points per image pair that overlap
should work.

As for the upside down images, Hugin attempts to spread out the images
when you first import them. I generally go into Fast Preview, use the
move (individual) tool to roughly align all the images, then go in and
do either auto CP find (prealigned) or manually add the CPs.

--Sean

[Michael]

as an experiment I made the focal length bigger (from 4.?? to 10 ) and got MANY more control points!

[Michael]

Well, I've tried twice with two different sets of photos and there is this one wall that won't show up in the panorama. When I have more time the next thing to try is to stitch two panoramas together (one of the wall that won't include and one of the rest of the room). 

On Wednesday, March 9, 2016 at 2:50:17 PM UTC-5, Michael wrote:

[Michael]

That didn't work! I think the problem I am having with stitching two different panoramas together is that the two are not on the same scale.

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:-)~MIKE~(-:

[dkloi]

Can you explain fully what you are doing? What lens are you using? Are you using a panoramic head? What are the steps you are doing in Hugin? Without details, we can't help.

From your log file:

First input image

Number: 0

Filename: /home/bmike1/Pictures/Work/photospere test/DSC00100.JPG

Size: 4896x3672

Projection: Normal (rectilinear)

Response type: custom (EMoR)

HFOV: 152

Exposure value: 7.8

A rectilinear lens with 152 degree horizontal field of view doesn't sound right. "as an experiment I made the focal length bigger (from 4.?? to 10 ) and got MANY more control points!" I'm not surprised.

[Michael]

My lens is just my camera (point & click DSC HX10v). It is not a panoramic head. Just from the top of my tripod. I'm attempting to make a head but I am getting okay results as is; just a little ghosting  and one of the walls disappears. Also some images are upside down. I tried fusing two panoramas together (the two included with this message) but one of them imported upside down.

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[Markku Kolkka]

14.3.2016, 15:51, Michael kirjoitti:
> My lens is just my camera (point & click DSC HX10v).

HX10V has focal length range 4.28 - 68.48 mm and "Focal length
multiplier" 5.6. Check that the multiplier value is set correctly. The
HFOV should be about 57 degrees if you were using the widest zoom
position with the camera in portrait orientation.

[Michael]

Thanks! please.... tell me how you discovered that. I need to know for when I upgrade my camera.

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[Michael]

also... what is the focal length multiplier?

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:-)~MIKE~(-:

[Michael]

one more thing... am I correct in thinking the ghosting is because I am not using a panoramic head? I think this because the things that ghost are the things that are sticking out from the walls.

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:-)~MIKE~(-:

[dkloi]

Hugin only cares about the actual angle of view of your lens. The angle of view depends on the focal length of the lens (let's just assume we're talking about rectilinear lenses and not fisheyes) and the size of the sensor the image cast by the lens fall upon.

Once upon a time, most photographers were familiar with 35mm photographic film and the appropriate lenses. E.g. A 50mm focal length lens on 35mm film gives a "normal" angle of view (roughly 77 degrees diagonally), a 35mm focal length lens is a moderate wide angle, an 85mm focal length lens is a short telephoto, a 24mm focal length lens is a wide angle lens, and a 14mm focal length lens and ultra-wide angle lens.

With the advent of digital cameras, the "film" is now a piece of silicon that can be many different sizes depending on the camera. Some people still think in terms of the angle of view being tied to a focal length when used on 35mm film, hence sometime people talk about a "50mm equivalent" lens regardless of the actual focal length if it gives a roughly 47 degree angle of view on their camera. For example, on a Micro 4/3 camera, a 25mm focal length lens will have the same diagonal angle of view as a 50mm focal length lens on 35mm film (we'll ignore the different image ratios). Hence, one might say there has been a 2x focal length multiplier between the 25mm lens on a Micro 4/3 camera and an equivalent 50mm lens on 35mm film. Conversely, one can say that the Micro 4/3 camera is a 2x crop compared with 35mm film.

In your case, the 5.6x focal length multiplier really means that your sensor is 5.6 times smaller (in linear dimensions) than a piece of 35mm film (that has a diagonal of 43.3mm). Your 4.28-68.48mm zoom lens would be "equivalent" to a 26-380mm zoom lens if you were using a 35mm film camera (or a so-called "full frame" camera) in terms of the angle of view they would provide. Try using a lens of 26mm and a crop factor of 1 in Hugin.

In Hugin, you can enter the actual focal length of the lens together with the crop factor/multiplier so that Hugin can work out the angle of view of the source images (assuming its lens type). But the actual focal length/crop factors don't matter, just the computed angle of view (field of view). Hugin displays the Horizontal Field of View (HFoV) rather than the diagonal FoV.

Ghosting could be caused by several things, parallax due to misaligned entrance pupils, or else bad alignment.

I can suggest trying to assemble a panorama manually. Place a few manual alignment points between adjacent images, vertical alignment points, go through the process of optimization (geometry and photometry), tweaking, and understand how the process actually works. It's not something you'll want to have to do all the time but when you're starting off, it's good to get a solid understanding of the fundamentals of the process so that it becomes less of a black box exercise.

[Markku Kolkka]

14.3.2016, 20:21, Michael kirjoitti:
> also... what is the focal length multiplier?
>
> On Mon, Mar 14, 2016 at 2:20 PM, Michael <bmi...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Thanks! please.... tell me how you discovered that. I need to know for
>> when I upgrade my camera.

I looked up the focal lengths from the camera manual that's available
online. They are also printed on the ring around the front lens. Focal
length multiplier is also known as the crop factor, and it's the size of
a 35mm film frame divided by the size of your camera's sensor. It can
also be calculated by dividing the "35 equivalent focal length" by the
actual focal length of the lens.

[Michael]

wow, I didn't even think it would be on the lens of a point an click. I looked and there it is (sort of).  What is written on the lens is 

     3,3-5,9/4,28-68,48

which is a little different than what you said:

     4.28 - 68.48 mm and "Focal length multiplier" 5.6. 

What I'm figuring is their giving a focal length multiplier range to account for the zoom. As for them saying 5.9 and you 5.6 what is 3/10?

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:-)~MIKE~(-:

[dkloi]

The numbers "3.3-5.9" are the max apertures of the lens at the wide and tele end of the zoom respectively, not the crop factor.

[panostar]

On Monday, March 14, 2016 at 1:52:04 PM UTC, Michael wrote:

My lens is just my camera (point & click DSC HX10v). It is not a panoramic head. Just from the top of my tripod. I'm attempting to make a head but I am getting okay results as is; just a little ghosting  and one of the walls disappears. Also some images are upside down. I tried fusing two panoramas together (the two included with this message) but one of them imported upside down.

One imports upside down because it is upside down.  You can stitch the two images together but as they have different horizontal angles of view, you need to use individual lenses.  They do stitch together ok and I uploaded the resulting panorama image to https://www.sendspace.com/file/qqqyd5 . 

John 

[Michael]

I flipped it yesterday and tried to fuse them to no avail.

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[dkloi]

Give us more information if you want us to help you. What did you do? Give precise steps, the details matter.

[Michael]

Thanks for all the help. I got it worked out! I just need apanoramic head for the tripod now.

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