On Thu, Apr 21, 2016 at 03:14:21PM -0700, Simon Bethke wrote:
> Hi,
> I am an amateur photographer and lately got a Gear VR device so I wanted to
> try some VR Stuff.
> Testing free panorama tools, I found that Hugin was the only free tool
> providing decent results. Also, my 'Fisheye' lens uses Stereographic
> projection, so most other tools are not even able to stitch my input
> material correctly.
>
> Now, the last days, weeks, ... even months(?) ... I am trying to find a
> good way to capture stereoscopic panoramas with my one camera. After alot
> of trial and error, I found that the best method for me is to place the
> camera left and right the NPP and take 12 images for the 360° circle. Now
> with hugin, I align them and export the frames but don't stitch them yet.
> For that I use the multiblend <
http://horman.net/multiblend/> tool and
It's not a shortcoming of Hugin that non-NPP pano sets are hard to
stitch. It's simply the way optics work. There will be parallax errors
if you're not spinning around the NPP, and there's nothing that can be
directly done about that. Parallax errors are extremely difficult for
software to handle automatically. You can of course use Hugin to stitch
non-NPP sets, and even handheld shots. Often times, some clever manual
masking can reduce or even eliminate the more severe parallax errors,
but that relies on there being "fudgable areas," e.g. blank white walls
where you can hide the misaligned seam.
The advice from that forum post in the other reply seems to be pretty
good. Keep the number of photos as low as possible to keep the number of
seams down, and avoid very close objects to the camera (which cause the
most severe parallax).
The problem is that 3D and pano-stitching are essntially at odds with
each other. 3D uses parallax to imply depth, while panos want as little
parallax as possible (ideally zero), since it causes stitching artifacts.
--Sean