Mika
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Wild camping is a pursuit that must be carefully defined. In some cultures,
it involves camping in a big stripy hat and staying up way past midnight. In
others, it entails camping in a non-campsite environment, usually in an
untamed rural location. Today we will focus on the latter.
If you think about it, there's something a little anachronistic about
camping in a campsite. It used to be different. Back in Robin Hood's day, we
Britons would camp where we damn well pleased, flinging our canvases across
land, forest, pasture and beach. Then, our fair country was divvied up, and
everywhere became somebody's. And so, technically, wild camping became
trespassing.
But as with every great dollop of bureaucracy, there are loopholes. One
mighty great loophole arrived in Scotland in 2003 in the shape of the Land
Reform Act. There is a 78-page PDF of the Act available online, should you
wish to destroy a few hours of your day, but its general theme can be
summarised thus: wild camping on public hill land is OK in Scotland, so long
as you are 100m from a road, and don't leave rubbish behind. Oh, and ask any
local landowners just in case. And don't come crying to us if they say no.
In England and Wales, things are a little stuffier. You can't do it unless
the landowner has given you permission. But once again, there are
exceptions. Kind of. It is generally accepted that wild camping is OK above
the "intake walls" on mountain areas - these are the partitions between
pasture and uncultivated land. Wild campers are advised to keep their groups
small, not stay for too long, camp at least 100m from a road, and try to
pitch out of sight of farm settlements and houses.
Under the Freedom of Information Act, the Legalise Wild Camping petition
website (Legalisewildcamping.com) asked for - and got - an official response
from the Lake District national park on the matter: "Wild camping on
unenclosed fell land, remote from the roads, is generally accepted if
undertaken responsibly by small numbers of people."
Down in Dartmoor, the authorities take a more free and easy approach. Ish.
An amendment to the 1949 National Parks & Access to the Countryside Act
stipulates that camping is permitted anywhere on the moor, but not for
longer than two nights, and not "on farmland, on moorland enclosed by walls,
within 100m of a road, on flood plains or on archaeological sites". Wild
indeed.Here's the lowdown on the law across Europe, and the best places to
pitch your tent.
England and Wales
Due to its welcoming rules on wild camping, Dartmoor is a safe bet, and free
from the threat of angry farmers. Aim for the southern bits, well out of
range of the army firing ranges in the north. In the Lake District, the
shores of remote Styhead tarn are a popular wild camping spot, and provide a
great base for climbing Scafell Pike or Great Gable. Go4awalk.com, a
fantastic resource on wild camping, also recommends a couple of spots in the
Brecon Beacons: by the Clun Gwyn waterfalls near Ystradfellte, in a bracken
field where overnight camping is allowed for groups of fewer than 10 (OS Map
ref SN918084); and on the Cnewr Estate (OS Map ref SN922193), so long as you
avoid lambing season.
Scotland
As discussed above, most of Scotland is your oyster. The Falls of Falloch
are an exhilarating spot for kayakers, who peel off the A82 (running south
from Crianlarich to the northern tip of Loch Lomond) and furrow into
footpaths along the river Falloch. Secluded areas abound for overnight
pitching. There are easier spots to find on the eastern shores of Loch
Lomond, but don't expect much solitude in summer. The Hebrides are fantastic
for wild camping - aim for the west coast of Harris, between Horgabost and
Scarista, for stunning views of Taransay.
France
Wild camping in France is a legal grey area, but is generally tolerated with
the permission of landowners, or if you're well away from tourist sites. You
are also advised not to stay beyond 9am the next day. And whatever you do,
don't light a fire. They hate that. The Ardennes in the north-east and the
Morvan peaks in Burgundy are popular with rambling Parisians. In the south,
forums report laissez-faire attitudes to wild camping around Saintes
Maries-de-la-Mer in the Camargue.
Greece
Wild camping here is illegal, the authorities preferring to point tourists
towards money-making, taxable hotels and campsites. This rule is rampantly
ignored, but we're not going to recommend that you wild camp, just in case.
But a friend of a friend of a friend tells us there are numerous stunning
spots on the Cyclades islands which are virtually un-policed, particularly
the north-western coast of Amorgos and the southern beaches of Anafi. And we
certainly wouldn't recommend the east coast of the Peloponnese around
Leonidi and Kyparissi, despite the fact that they are totally unregulated
and utterly remote. Nope, not us.
Bulgaria
Wild camping in Bulgaria comes with a dash of political activism and a whiff
of nudity. Over the summer, hundreds of hippy families relocate to the wild
beaches of the Black Sea for weeks on end. Many of them visit annually to
protest against the aggressive private land grab that has claimed 90% of the
coastline. Pitching up on the sand, they often take all their clothes off
for good measure. The beaches of Irakli and Karadere are very popular, the
latter under threat from a large Norman Foster-sponsored development. Tsk.
Norway
Wild camping in Norway (and Sweden too, for that matter) is enshrined in the
Allemannsretten - every man or woman's right of public access. An easy way
to find a wild pitch is to travel to Oslo and take a commuter ferry across
the inner fjord to Langoyene island, whose grassy shores are fair game for
campers. The wooded area around Sognsvann lake, north of the city, is also a
popular spot. A more adventurous summer destination is the dramatic Lofoten
islands, inside the Arctic Circle, where camping comes with the added perk
of midnight sun.
Estonia
Wild camping in Estonia is widely tolerated, according to the tourist board,
but getting permission from the landowner is advised. The large island of
Saaremaa, in the Baltic, is covered in thick forests and has a handful of
campsites, but many locals pitch on the beaches in the north of the island,
around Murika. In the north-east of Estonia the Lahemaa national park is
another beautiful area smothered in forest, where landowners are well-known
for welcoming campers.