My "open box" H67H3 was missing these two items:
1) the package of four M3-0.5 x 3/16" screws for retaining the optical
drive, and
2) the driver disk (for Windows).
(1) was solved by visiting HSC, one of Silicon Valley's original
electronics surplus houses. The required screws, although not identical to
the originals (which have a flange), were only $0.02 apiece. I bought a
couple dozen of them.
(2) was solved by downloading all of the individual driver packages from
Shuttle's site (the downloads actually come from an FTP site in Taiwan,
although you reach it from Shuttle's USA site).
All the driver packages were installed on Win 7 without issues, and now
everything works on Windows 7.
Oh, yes, the installation of Windows left the machine only able to boot
into Windows. A known issue with a single drive system.
The usual method of dealing with this is to boot the Windows repair CD and
change the "active" partition from the Windows 7 partition to the EFI
partition.
I did this, but the result was the first stage boot loader within the
Shuttle's BIOS said "no operating system".
I have seen this before, and the usual circumvention is to reinstall the
boot loader (Chimera 1.4.1, in this case) which also reinstalls the EFI
partition, but this gave me a Lion which KP'ed. Not nice!
I am, therefore, reinstalling Lion.
I would strongly recommend using two hard drives if a dual boot system is
desired. I run my ASRock P55 Pro this way and it really helps when you get
an update, like the Service Pack 1, which demands that the Windows hard
drive is the only hard drive on the system, for otherwise the update will
fail with an obscure error code. Its easy enough just to unplug the data
cable for the MacOS drive and then let Windows believe it is the only game
in town.
Win 7 is now up with all Shuttle add-ons and all M$ updates.
Everything works perfectly on Win 7.
Reinstalled Lion. This time the /Extra folder was copied.
Alas, Lion crashed ... got a KP in Voodoo, so I was forced to remove Voodoo.
Therefore, again no sound in Lion.
The SH67H3 config at this point is:
1) Shuttle SH67H3 (obviously),
2) LG super-multi optical drive (24X DVD burning),
3) 300 GB Seagate SATA I HD, just because I had it available, I will
update to something else later, most probably a 1 TB SATA III or SATA II,
4) 2 x 4GB = 8GB Corsair XMS3 1600 RAM,
5) eVGA 8400GS video card with HDMI, SVGA and DVI (PCI-e 16x),
6) Highpoint RAID/JBOD card (PCI-e 1x).
> No sound, and I'm not likely to tempt fate by trying another
> installation of Voodoo as the last one KP'ed all over the place after
> application of the 10.7.1 update.
Did you forget to remove the AppleHDA.kext before rebooting after
installing 10.7.1? What about those pesky kext caches? I think you
should probably run Kext Utility before rebooting.
You have a lot more trouble with Voodoo than I do. When I have a
problem like a panic caused by a specific kext, I have an iPC 10.5.6
Live DVD that I can boot and remove whatever causes the panic from a
normal OS X GUI. I'd rather have a USB stick with an fully installed
bootable System, but don't have the $$ right now for a 16GB USB stick.
That was the FIRST think I checked.
I discovered that MultiBeast is renaming a lot of stuff to inforce its
preferred new strategy of moving everything possible into /S/L/E.
I countered this by reinstalling, but using the stand-alone Chimera 1.4.1
installer.
I'm really not too pleased by tonymacx86 constantly changing the rules.
If he doesn't understand what is going on, that's no good reason to change
... wholesale ... that which has been working for literally years.
Shuttle supplies three "D" shaped knock-outs for WiFi antennas. Only
two are needed for Broadcom WiFi cards. My Broadcom card is a full-
sized 4322 (AirDrop-compatible). (Three antennas are supported by
certain Atheros WiFi cards, but I have seen no objective evidence
which proves two antennas are better than two).
The antenna connections are through 12" (30 cm) long cables, obtained
from one of the "usual suspects" in HK.
In order to mount these, the "D" shape has to be changed to an "O"
shape, or at least the flattened portion of the "D" has to be
relieved, somewhat.
It was easiest to use a "Uni-Bit", which is a multi-diameter sheet
metal drill which is nearly fully circular, but which has a relieved
portion and which forms the functional part of the drill.
Holding the "Uni-Bit" in a battery-powered drill, but with the battery
removed, the "Uni-Bit" was placed so that just the functional part of
the drill just contacted the flattened portion of the "D" and the
chuck was turned manually through about 45 degrees, thereby removing
most of the offending portion of the "D". Took all of about two
seconds to accomplish.
Although the R-SMA connectors are metric, a common 5/8" nut driver
proved to be suitable to tighten the nut. DO NOT OVER-TIGHTEN!
The two 12" (30 cm) internal cables are long enough to clear both the
PCI-e 16x and the PCI-e 1x expansion slots and also to avoid the built-
in fan of the 8400GS video card.