3D Printed Astro Parts

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Chris Miskiewicz

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Jan 8, 2021, 6:23:53 PM1/8/21
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Is anyone 3D printing telescope accessories? I got back into printing and I have printed a few useful parts like a solar finder, finder bracket shoe, accessories for my raspberry pi setup, and 2" desiccant dust caps. I already have a bunch of bahtinov masks but I was wondering if anyone has printed anything useful for their telescope equipment.
Chris

Corey Koval

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Jan 8, 2021, 7:49:24 PM1/8/21
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I 3D printed the belt pulleys for my autofocuser. 

On Fri, Jan 8, 2021, 18:23 Chris Miskiewicz <chrismi...@gmail.com> wrote:
Is anyone 3D printing telescope accessories? I got back into printing and I have printed a few useful parts like a solar finder, finder bracket shoe, accessories for my raspberry pi setup, and 2" desiccant dust caps. I already have a bunch of bahtinov masks but I was wondering if anyone has printed anything useful for their telescope equipment.
Chris

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Steve Rifkin

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Jan 8, 2021, 8:13:56 PM1/8/21
to howar...@googlegroups.com, Chris Miskiewicz
Hi Chris, I have used my 3-D printer for lots of prints and have specifically printed a few items for my astronomy hobby, as seen in the attached pic...

1) On the left is a cap that is a design of my own.  When I have my Canon T-adapter on my scope, but I remove the camera, I insert this cap to keep the dust from getting  into the scope via the T-adapter opening.  This cap has to cover the entire T-adapter area and "pseudo" screws onto (no threads, though, just a nice tight fit)  the outer ring of the adapter so that it remains in place.

2) A print of someone else's design for a Bahtinov mask for my Tamron 18-400mm zoom lens.

3) A print of a simple dust cap I downloaded for a 1.25" opening (e.g., a star diagonal.)

By the way, Chris, if you're looking for a way to control and monitor your prints using a Raspberry Pi and a Pi camera, try setting up an OctoPrint server.  Works great!

Steve Rifkin
stev...@erols.com


On 1/8/2021 6:23 PM, Chris Miskiewicz wrote:
Is anyone 3D printing telescope accessories? I got back into printing and I have printed a few useful parts like a solar finder, finder bracket shoe, accessories for my raspberry pi setup, and 2" desiccant dust caps. I already have a bunch of bahtinov masks but I was wondering if anyone has printed anything useful for their telescope equipment.
Chris
3D-AstroPrints-SteveRifkin.jpg

Joseph Novotka

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Jan 9, 2021, 1:06:57 AM1/9/21
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I had a friend print me a DSLR camera to telescope focuser 1.25inch adapter. 
It worked great.
- Joe

On Fri, Jan 8, 2021, 6:23 PM Chris Miskiewicz <chrismi...@gmail.com> wrote:
Is anyone 3D printing telescope accessories? I got back into printing and I have printed a few useful parts like a solar finder, finder bracket shoe, accessories for my raspberry pi setup, and 2" desiccant dust caps. I already have a bunch of bahtinov masks but I was wondering if anyone has printed anything useful for their telescope equipment.
Chris

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Alin Tolea

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Jan 9, 2021, 10:16:54 AM1/9/21
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Lots of little parts so far. Just bought some CF PETG so i can print more "serious" parts too.. I'll never buy a solar filter, plastic finder bracket or bahtinov mask ever again, needless to say.

Alin

On Fri, Jan 8, 2021 at 6:23 PM Chris Miskiewicz <chrismi...@gmail.com> wrote:
Is anyone 3D printing telescope accessories? I got back into printing and I have printed a few useful parts like a solar finder, finder bracket shoe, accessories for my raspberry pi setup, and 2" desiccant dust caps. I already have a bunch of bahtinov masks but I was wondering if anyone has printed anything useful for their telescope equipment.
Chris

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office phone: (240) 684 0930



Michael Stratton

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Jan 10, 2021, 12:06:35 PM1/10/21
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I'm wanting to try and tackle 3d printing some parts for an EQ platform for my dob.

Dale Ghent

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Jan 11, 2021, 11:58:03 AM1/11/21
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> On Jan 8, 2021, at 18:23, Chris Miskiewicz <chrismi...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Is anyone 3D printing telescope accessories? I got back into printing and I have printed a few useful parts like a solar finder, finder bracket shoe, accessories for my raspberry pi setup, and 2" desiccant dust caps. I already have a bunch of bahtinov masks but I was wondering if anyone has printed anything useful for their telescope equipment.

I've gotten my Prusa Mk3S+ set up now and in a close-loop HEPA filtered enclosure, which will allow me to safely print with ASA or ABS. Some useful links I picked up:

1. AutoCAD Fusion 360 models for 3D printed dust caps and plugs (M42, M48, M54, M68, etc):
https://a360.co/2Vey7Ho

2. See the attached XML file for Fusion 360 which defines astrogear-relevant threads (M28.5 x 0.6, M42 x 0.75, etc). This XML file needs to be put in the Windows folder below to be installed:

%localappdata%\Autodesk\webdeploy\Production<VERSION ID>\Fusion\Server\Fusion\Configuration\ThreadData

CUSTOM_THREADS.xml

Chas Rimpo

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Jan 11, 2021, 12:09:53 PM1/11/21
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Dale:

We may need you to try your hand at 3D printing a Telrad mount that will fit on the Takahashi scope at HALO. With the stock parts now on hand, our current Telrad won't fit correctly. So we added a Rigel Quickfinder which is currently held on only by some cable ties. Besides the uncertainly of the cable tie mount, the Rigel leaves a lot to be desired relative to a Telrad.

I am pretty certain a 3D printer could make a great Telrad mount that would conveniently fit where we need to mount a Telrad on that scope. Assuming the A-P GTO Mount issues can be resolved, the need to have a finder is greatly reduced, but it would still be nice to have a Telrad mounted for emergencies.

I have modified my Telrad to work off a 12VDC input. If we do remount the HALO Telrad this would be a good mod to make on it, too, as someone is always forgetting to turn it off and running down the batteries!

Chas
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Jim Johnson

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Jan 11, 2021, 12:22:57 PM1/11/21
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Chas,

I get an average of one night's use out of a new battery. I can never remember to turn the thing off! I would like to modify my Telrad to wok off of 12v too.

I think that I read long long ago in a galaxy far far away that the Telrad circuit is rated for 18vdc. If this is correct, I am thinking that it is ok to just replace the 9v battery with a 12vdc power source. Is that what you did?

~Jim
To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/howardastro/003701d6e83c%2492af1d80%24b80d5880%24%40gmail.com.

Dale Ghent

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Jan 11, 2021, 12:38:18 PM1/11/21
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That's a really good thought, Chas. It'll obviate the need to climb up to change the battery... which, to be real, would probably be every time it would need to be used given the the occasional nature of it. The Telrad is normally juiced by a single 9V battery, so a simple buck circuit can drop a 12V feed off the powerpole hub down to 9V. Is this what you did with yours? The space inside the Telrad body would be more than adequate. I could probably install powerpole receptacle on it and make it truly plug-in simple.

Come to think of it, I could come up with a remote switch for it as well, so it can be turned on remotely instead of it requiring someone to get out a ladder in order to climb up and flip the switch on its side.... or, since it would be juiced by the 12V mains, another option is to just leave it on all the time.

I'll explore some mounting ideas. I have a Telrad here at home that I can use to model the fit of an adaptor/bracket.

/dale
> To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/howardastro/003701d6e83c%2492af1d80%24b80d5880%24%40gmail.com.

Chas Rimpo

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Jan 11, 2021, 12:50:49 PM1/11/21
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Jim:

I am not sure about the Telrad's maximum voltage rating. If it is really 18V, then all you'd need is a jack to connect the power to the Telrad. I assumed it really needed 9V so I added an LM7809 which is a cheap 9V 3-terminal regulator. You'll likely need a couple of other passive components (capacitors). I think I just used spare parts I have lying around, but if you have to buy them they are so cheap that shipping probably costs more. The cheapest I've seen the LM7809 on-line (Amazon) is about $5 but that includes 10 devices and shipping. There are options for fewer regulators but the cost doesn't drop much.

I did drill two holes in the Telrad case, one for the power jack and one to screw the LM7809 to the inside of the case.

I'll need to pop the covers off and take a look to be sure how I did everything since it was several years ago that I did this mod.
To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/howardastro/a76ee3b7edb24c338c3a194aa3a3d8b4%40jrjohnson.net.

Chas Rimpo

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Jan 11, 2021, 12:52:50 PM1/11/21
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Dale:

It's up to you but I'd just keep the Telrad on and let it power down when the entire scope assembly is turned off.
To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/howardastro/ADFAF0AF-A825-41A5-9B06-DFE404E4CFF5%40elemental.org.

Chris Miskiewicz

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Jan 11, 2021, 12:53:35 PM1/11/21
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Question, why do you need a finder on the HALO telescope? I would think you would plate solve since you have a camera in use and good polar alignment.

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Chas Rimpo

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Jan 11, 2021, 1:33:44 PM1/11/21
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Time to retry my answer. I checked my Telrad and it ran off a pair of 1.5V AA batteries, not off a 9V battery. So what I really did was use a 3.3V 3-terminal regulator (LD1117V33 - Amazon 6 parts for $8.50 with free prime shipping). Since my Obsession scope uses RCA jacks for power near the eyepiece, I drilled holes for two RCA jacks (and a 3rd hole to screw down the voltage regulator). Both RCA jacks are wired in parallel inside the Telrad housing. One is for the 12V power input and the other jack is used to connect 12VDC to my Telrad dew heater via a short existing cable.

In the case of the HALO Telrad, since we currently use a Power Pole connector system, Dale's idea to go that way makes sense. Then we could use an off the shelf cable instead of making a custom one, unless length becomes an issue. I did put in one 10uf cap between the output regulator terminal and ground. Those are the only two components I used other than a few small pieces of wire to connect everything together.

Chas

-----Original Message-----
From: howar...@googlegroups.com <howar...@googlegroups.com> On Behalf Of Dale Ghent
Sent: Monday, January 11, 2021 12:35 PM
To: howardastro <howar...@googlegroups.com>
Subject: Re: [howardastro] 3D Printed Astro Parts


That's a really good thought, Chas. It'll obviate the need to climb up to change the battery... which, to be real, would probably be every time it would need to be used given the occasional nature of it. The Telrad is normally juiced by a single 9V battery, so a simple buck circuit can drop a 12V feed off the PowerPole hub down to 9V. Is this what you did with yours? The space inside the Telrad body would be more than adequate. I could probably install PowerPole receptacle on it and make it truly plug-in simple.

Come to think of it, I could come up with a remote switch for it as well, so it can be turned on remotely instead of it requiring someone to get out a ladder in order to climb up and flip the switch on its side.... or, since it would be juiced by the 12V mains, another option is to just leave it on all the time.

I'll explore some mounting ideas. I have a Telrad here at home that I can use to model the fit of an adaptor/bracket.

/dale

> On Jan 11, 2021, at 12:09, Chas Rimpo <eth...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Dale:
>
> We may need you to try your hand at 3D printing a Telrad mount that will fit on the Takahashi scope at HALO. With the stock parts now on hand, our current Telrad won't fit correctly. So we added a Rigel Quickfinder which is currently held on only by some cable ties. Besides the uncertainly of the cable tie mount, the Rigel leaves a lot to be desired relative to a Telrad.
>
> I am pretty certain a 3D printer could make a great Telrad mount that would conveniently fit where we need to mount a Telrad on that scope. Assuming the A-P GTO Mount issues can be resolved, the need to have a finder is greatly reduced, but it would still be nice to have a Telrad mounted for emergencies.
>
> I have modified my Telrad to work off a 12VDC input. If we do remount the HALO Telrad this would be a good mod to make on it, too, as someone is always forgetting to turn it off and running down the batteries!
>
> Chas
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: howar...@googlegroups.com <howar...@googlegroups.com> On
> Behalf Of Dale Ghent
> Sent: Monday, January 11, 2021 11:55 AM
> To: howardastro <howar...@googlegroups.com>
> Subject: Re: [howardastro] 3D Printed Astro Parts
>
>
>
>> On Jan 8, 2021, at 18:23, Chris Miskiewicz <chrismi...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> Is anyone 3D printing telescope accessories? I got back into printing and I have printed a few useful parts like a solar finder, finder bracket shoe, accessories for my raspberry pi setup, and 2" desiccant dust caps. I already have a bunch of Bahtinov masks but I was wondering if anyone has printed anything useful for their telescope equipment.
>
> I've gotten my Prusa Mk3S+ set up now and in a close-loop HEPA filtered enclosure, which will allow me to safely print with ASA or ABS. Some useful links I picked up:
>
> 1. AutoCAD Fusion 360 models for 3D printed dust caps and plugs (M42, M48, M54, M68, etc.):
> https://a360.co/2Vey7Ho
>
> 2. See the attached XML file for Fusion 360 which defines astrogear-relevant threads (M28.5 x 0.6, M42 x 0.75, etc.). This XML file needs to be put in the Windows folder below to be installed:
>
> %localappdata%\Autodesk\webdeploy\Production<VERSION
> ID>\Fusion\Server\Fusion\Configuration\ThreadData
>
> --
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> ---------- Anyone posting topics not related to astronomy or the
> Howard Astronomical League will be moderated immediately and without notice. Obvious spammers will be banned.
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>
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Dale Ghent

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Jan 11, 2021, 1:37:12 PM1/11/21
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Hey Chris,

That's something that I don't believe is set up yet in TSX, but all the ingredients are there to support this and it just needs to be worked out and documented so that it can be easily managed and self-serviced on the CTO level. Once warm weather returns to us, I plan on doing a maintenance cycle on the mount and work out any remaining gremlins or gotchas that get in the way of reliable operation. My hope is that any extant tracking and polar alignment issues will be resolved as a part of that, and any further periodic calibration needs can be addressed through a reliable and documented plate solving method/interface.

Aside from that, an always-on Telrad on top of the scope might be fun for a visitor to look up and glance through from floor level to see directly where in the sky the telescope is pointing. I'm not very partial to green lasers pointers, especially since HALO is quite close to BWI approach and departure routes, so I feel that this is a good replacement for that.

/dale
> To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/howardastro/CAK_GKy3bALnF9EBwVfNASixyEZyGWJfRwth7huuhRTOa9HaS5g%40mail.gmail.com.

David Stein

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Jan 11, 2021, 1:37:23 PM1/11/21
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Chris,

The Rigel Quickfinder is only supposed to be an emergency measure to make it easier to regain alignment when it is lost.  So I'm not sure why others think we need an upgrade, it ought to be used extremely rarely.  But I don't object to a Telrad.

David

Jim Johnson

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Jan 11, 2021, 3:02:40 PM1/11/21
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Chas,

If you had not already retried your answer, I would have had to retry my question. My Telrad is 2x 1.5v AA batteries.

Thanks for the info on the regulator and capacitor - I'm gonna do it!

~Jim

-----Original Message-----
From: howar...@googlegroups.com <howar...@googlegroups.com> On Behalf Of Chas Rimpo
Sent: Monday, January 11, 2021 1:34 PM
To: howar...@googlegroups.com
To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/howardastro/001801d6e848%2449874720%24dc95d560%24%40gmail.com.

Chris Miskiewicz

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Jan 11, 2021, 4:11:44 PM1/11/21
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I have switched over to Raspberry Pi systems to run my equipment. I use both Stellarmate and ZWO Air Pro systems that easily run operating the mount, plate solving, focusing, guiding, etc. ZWO is simple to operate but only serves ZWO cameras. The app is straight forward and easy to navigate. Stellarmate I wanted for my QSI camera. It has a learning curve but can do so much. I did my first image run the other night. Mostly user error I haven't read the 300 page manual yet. M1 was centered and the stars were round with 5 min subs. Both systems, out of the box, were pretty simple to use if you have experience with AP. Once you input the specs of your equipment plate solving guiding, focusing and imaging runs are handled smoothly.

George Pelikan

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Apr 11, 2021, 4:27:58 PM4/11/21
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I’m thinking about powering the Telrad from a USB port. There are YouTube vids of Telrad dew heaters run from usb, but not for power. If anyone has done a USB power supply for their Telrad, I’d love to hear the details. Personally, my Telrad clicks itself on once a week in my carry bag but I hardly ever have had to change the batteries. But I enjoy tinkering. 
Thanks so much, George

Jim Johnson

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Apr 12, 2021, 10:40:25 AM4/12/21
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George,

 

I was getting about one night’s use from a set of batteries in my Telrad, because either I forgot to turn it off, or it accidentally got turned back on. I mod-ed my Telrad to run on 12vdc, which I have readily available on my scope. Chas Rimpo helped me with component selection (two items, less than $10, I think). I figured out how to connect them from the data sheet.

 

Some soldering required. Once upon a time I could solder like nobody’s business, but picking it up again after decades of not doing it, it was almost like starting over. Skills are so-so now, but I managed to pull it off.

 

Image attached. I can round up more details if you’re interested.

 

~Jim

20210130_153904.jpg

Garry Ingle

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Apr 12, 2021, 10:53:30 AM4/12/21
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Okay that looks good but why are using a tantalum capacitor? Why not use electrolytic?


From: howar...@googlegroups.com <howar...@googlegroups.com> on behalf of Jim Johnson <j...@jrjohnson.net>
Sent: Monday, April 12, 2021 10:39:38 AM
To: howar...@googlegroups.com <howar...@googlegroups.com>
Subject: RE: [howardastro] 3D Printed Astro Parts
 

Jim Johnson

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Apr 12, 2021, 11:04:26 AM4/12/21
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Garry,

 

I can see no difference between my Telrad as it is now on 12vdc power and as it was on 3vdc AA battery power, so it seems to be working ok.

 

I had no idea that there was such a thing as tantalum and electrolytic capacitors but you have piqued my interest. Can you explain why the electrolytic capacitor is better for this application?

 

~Jim

Garry Ingle

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Apr 12, 2021, 11:41:15 AM4/12/21
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Okay please message me off group

Sent: Monday, April 12, 2021 11:04:20 AM

Chas Rimpo

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Apr 12, 2021, 11:56:12 AM4/12/21
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Either one is fine. Often electrolytic are cheaper, also often larger for similar values.


Garry Ingle

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Apr 12, 2021, 12:00:24 PM4/12/21
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They are also not reliable. with my experience repairing the Meade Classics I would never use them!!! 

 "Clear Skies" Keep looking up
Telescope Repairs/Upgrades
Technical Support

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Stellarvue SVX 80mm TR-LE APO Triplet F6 CF 
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Ethos Eyepieces 
       Conan T4i 
 www.Meademods​.com 
    Garry Ingle Jr 
   443-604-7302 


From: howar...@googlegroups.com <howar...@googlegroups.com> on behalf of Chas Rimpo <eth...@gmail.com>
Sent: Monday, April 12, 2021 11:56 AM
To: howar...@googlegroups.com <howar...@googlegroups.com>

eth...@gmail.com

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Apr 12, 2021, 6:26:09 PM4/12/21
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Well, the caps Meade uses aren’t reliable. I don’t thing Tantalums are all unreliable as a type.

 

Meade used under spec’d parts. They should have used 50V caps rather than 25V caps.  They may have also used really cheap, poorly made caps. 

eth...@gmail.com

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Apr 12, 2021, 8:09:31 PM4/12/21
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I think Jim and I ran ours from a 12VDC supply since that’s pretty much what we had available.  However, this method should also work with the 5V available on a USB cable if that what you have. The main hassle with that is the cost of a USB female bulkhead mount jack and cutting a rectangular hole for it.

 

The main difference in my implementation vs. Jim’s is that I drilled two round holes for female RCA jacks in my Telrad and daisy chained both jacks together. Then I plugged the 12VDC power into one and ran a 2nd RCA male-male cable from the Telrad to my Dew heater.

Jim Johnson

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Apr 13, 2021, 2:29:44 PM4/13/21
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Chas is correct, 12vdc is what I had readily available to tap into on the scope. I would add that I put an Anderson PowerPole connector on the end of the pigtail coming out of my Telrad, because I had an extra outlet on the scope to plug it in to.

 

~Jim

Garry Ingle

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Apr 13, 2021, 4:30:33 PM4/13/21
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All i use is anderson power connectors. I've been using them back in my RC car days

Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2021 2:29:40 PM
To: howar...@googlegroups.com <howar...@googlegroups.com>

Dale Ghent

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Apr 13, 2021, 5:49:05 PM4/13/21
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Same, they're all I use. I even have a go-box I can take with me to quickly make cables and whatever I need in that arena. Good for imaging when camping/star parties.

https://imgur.com/Gt68XsO

> On Apr 13, 2021, at 16:30, Garry Ingle <garr...@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> All i use is anderson power connectors. I've been using them back in my RC car days
>
> Get Outlook for Android
>
> To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/howardastro/PH0PR01MB6374413A05FF82FA72C75475904F9%40PH0PR01MB6374.prod.exchangelabs.com.

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