Driver Board working
Eli Curtz
and everything seems to be ok. The biggest issue turned out to be
putting one of the fuse holders too close to the headers, requiring
you to remove the fuse to disconnect the header.
Big thanks again to Gerry for helping me with some design pitfalls.
Pics are up at www.nuprometheus.com/pinball/driver_boards.jpg and www.nuprometheus.com/pinball/driver_testing.jpg
(but they aren't too exciting.)
Eagle files are available.
- eli
White_Spot™
Do you have more info about your "super basic driver board"? What IC
you are using, components, etc..
About the boar no been too exciting... they don´t need too. The only
things is matter is they work well.
Eli Curtz
for those 8 signals to switch solenoid power using logic level mosfets.
There are 2 separate headers each of which has a fused supply with led
indicator and 4 mosfets. They all have diodes on the board so they'll
work with solenoids with or without the diode.
A 95% up to date version of the schematic is at http://nuprometheus.com/pinball/Driver8_Schematic.pdf
- eli
poodull
It seems to me that you have 8 available solenoids here... driven from
Q1-Q8, right?
So then, it stands to reason you probably are using more than one
board for your game.
My questions are:
1) Can these boards be used with different voltages? for instance,
50v for flippers, 25 for pop bumpers and 12 for diverters?
2) Is the controller module a latch style or direct control (again,
sorry I can't speak professionally).. that is, how would I connect
this board to my arduino and command it to fire a specific solenoid?
3) Are you selling these? if so, how much?
Thanks,
fc
Eli Curtz
you wanted multiple voltages you'd need to use separate boards, but
that would certainly work.
There are 8 control signals, an enable signal and a clock signal.
Every time the clock goes high the 8 control signals are loaded into
the latch and the solenoids will be in that state until the next time
you strobe the clock. Those 10 signals would all go to pins on the
Arduino. You could share the 8 controls signals between multiple
boards if you were willing to be keep track of having different clock
signals for each board.
I'm not "selling" them, but I do have some extras from my order. I can
send you a kit with all the components / connectors / pins etc. for
$30 (my cost), but you'd have to solder it together yourself. You can
get a similar board, fully assembled, from Rottendog, for $32 at http://rottendog.us/wdb008.htm
, so it isn't really a good deal unless you're obsessive like I am
about knowing how everything is put together.
- eli
poodull
Eli Curtz
His is compatible with an actual Williams production board, found in
TZ, Demo Man and several other games. It is also designed by somebody
who does it professionally instead of a total amateur.
The connections are a slightly different configuration, but basically
the same idea.
His would be a better choice if you're connecting with a Williams
power board or wiring harness (and probably a P-Roc as well).
Otherwise it's probably a wash.
- eli
Hunty
similar, but a lot simpler, and I want to make sure I'm not leaving
out something obvious. :)
Eli Curtz
turn off of the mosfets. As I was informed when I asked that very
question on rgp.
The newer Stern board uses them, but the Pin2000 board doesn't. IMO
that definitely qualifies them as optional.
Hunty
kendall...@gmail.com
professional! Quick question. Are you running this out of a printer
port? That leads to a follow up question. Are you using +5vdc
current to the board that opens the gate? What are you using the chip
for? I basically ran a +5 current from a board intended to light up
an led to kick the fet open. I did the resistors and such, but didn't
require a chip.
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