Wow, thanks Don. This looks very helpful.
To the regulars working on this project,I want to add (even if repeating some already said):The green strobe was not working well, apparantly because a transistor wasnot passing sufficient current.As was discussed in the space, 39K-ohm "base resistors" were paralleledwith 1K-ohm resistors so that the associated "2N3904" transistors can passthe ~150-200 mA of current needed to well-power the strobes.The red strobe got working, and the green one was not as of a few minutesbefore midnight.I would like to propose a troubleshooting proceedure based on myesperience with similar electronics:[All voltages to measure here are with respect to known good ground unlessmentioned as otherwise]1) Measure both ends of the 1K-ohm resistor that was added to get thegreen strrobe working. The "Arduino end" should be at 5 volts or notmuch less, and the "transistor base end" should be at around .75-.8 volts.At a point Wednesday evening, I heard a report that both ends of the 1Kwere at close to 5 volts. This suggests to me that the "transistor baseend" of the 1K resistor was failing to conduct current through the base ofthe associated transistor.There are many reasons why I think this could occur, by my favorite isthat there is a break between the "transistor base end" of the 1K resistorand the base lead of the transistor.This leads to follow-up testing as such, if I was doing that:2) Measure the voltage at the physical base lead of the transistor - onthe lead, as opposed to at a solder joint.That voltage should be ~.75-.8 volts if everything is working right.If it's around ~.6-.7 volt, that probably means the 39K base resistor isfeeding current to the transistor's base but the 1K one is not.It it's much less than .6 volt, then probably the transistor's base is notbeing fed current. Verify base resistor lead voltages to check for breaksupstream of the transistor's base lead, a short from base to ground, orlack of "high signal". (Base voltage less than .6 volt will beaccompanied by "transistor end" of base resistor having similarly lowvoltage and "arduino end" at ~4-5 volts if a short from the baseconnection to ground is the only problem.)If the transistor's base lead itself is at more like 4-5 volts, then probablyeither the transistor is bad or its emitter is not contacting ground. At thispoint, then:3) Measure the voltage on the transistor's physical wire lead. If that islow and the base lead's voltage is around 4-5 volts, then almost certainlysomething is wrong with the transistor. If the transistor's physicalemitter lead is is at around or over 4-5 volts, then the problem isprobably at-least-in-part failure of the transistor's emitter lead to contactground.==================4) If all above refuses to compute, make sure the add-on paralleled baseresistor is a 1K-ohm one and not failed-open. Use an ohmmeter if thingscome to such a desperate situation - and have one lead of the resistorconnected to nothing but the ohmmeter.Keep in mind that brown-black-red is usually not 1.0K when toleranceis tighter than 5%. For tighter tolerances, 1.0K is usuallybrown-black-black-brown.Also, check for strobes to not stress 3904-type transistors. Strobestypically conduct DC unsteadily on both 10's-of-microseconds and100's-of-milliseconds time scales.I give slight chance that transistors overheating and failing can be fixedby using even-lower 470 ohms instead of 1K - as long as Arduino outputs*comfortably* source ~10 milliamps. Otherwise, I have some favorite"power MOSFETs" that can greatly improve over 3904s. 4.5 volts canswitch an amp or two within a microsecond through a 1K resistor, withtransistor voltage drop less than .4 volt.=================================If the transistor is barely conducting sufficient average current: It mayhelp to put significant capacitance across the strobe. Use the maximumthat won't blow the transistor from current surge during charging - likely afew to around a hundred microfarads.- Don Klipstein (d...@donklipstein.com)--
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