3d printing paper molds

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♌ pez ♌

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Jan 24, 2011, 3:50:59 PM1/24/11
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Anyone got an inkling as to whether it might be feasible to 3d print a loose mesh that can be used to mold paper (maybe there would be a need to stretch fabric over it or what-not)

Example of sort of end result desired attached.

Btw, there is a paper artist right below our space.  She might be intetested.

IMAG0157.jpg

99

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Jan 24, 2011, 3:58:23 PM1/24/11
to hive76-d...@googlegroups.com, ♌ pez ♌
I think a lot of people would be interested in that, myself included.
Construction on my house is wrapping up and I'm finally mostly done with
piles of debris and on to thinking about lamps and stuff. I can imagine
a lot of people being interested in custom fabric or papier mache projects.
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Bruce Freeman

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Jan 24, 2011, 4:09:53 PM1/24/11
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For sheet paper, a flat metal screen is commonly used, though a "screen" made of bamboo "slats" (more like slivers) was formerly used.  These don't seem to lend themselves to 3D printing.

However,  I notice that some 3D-printed objects show the "trails" of plastic that formed them.  Maybe it would be possible to change the plastic, the extruder tip, and/or the melt temperature and flow to print a "screen".  Visualize doing this on the flat:  You draw a line of plastic on your base substrate, then draw another one spaced over a small distance, etc.  Finally you "support" lines atop these and crosswise to them, and add whatever material in addition to make the screen sufficiently rigid for use.

Okay, now turn this into 3D. Obviously you'd have to "draw" the support lines before you draw the screen lines, but the technique is otherwise the same.  Once done, turn it over to a papermaker, or farm it out to a company that makes things like egg cartons.

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Anne Farbman

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Jan 24, 2011, 5:59:46 PM1/24/11
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Is the idea to make a single-ply sheet of paper? Or a three-d molded pulp set-up for packaging? Within certain tolerances, you could probably do well with the latter by making a positive with the printer, then taking woven steel screen and "scrimping and pinching" around it, sewing in or cutting out patches in where the topology requires, etc. You might even be able to get low relief by making two positives and sandwiching the screen between them in a press. You'd have to use actual unsoldered wire screen, though- nylon "screen" or welded hardware cloth wouldn't really work that well.

Possibly also you could make a "frame" on the printer that could support a screen made by one of the above methods. You would need something that was essentially a honeycomb, cut to the appropriate heights to support the high points on the metal screen. This would be a lot of printing though...

A


From: Bruce Freeman <freem...@gmail.com>
To: hive76-d...@googlegroups.com
Sent: Mon, January 24, 2011 4:09:53 PM
Subject: Re: [Hive 76 Discussion] 3d printing paper molds

Christopher Thompson

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Jan 24, 2011, 6:02:07 PM1/24/11
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Val says you basically squish pulp into a mold. Smooth is better. Making pulp is the hard/slow part. 

-Chris
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Dave

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Jan 25, 2011, 8:34:57 AM1/25/11
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I've had good success using a 3D-printed mold, sanding it down to a
smooth finish, and then coating with a wax mold release. It was a
pretty simple 1-piece mold in my case, but it did work well for a
simple fiberglass layup. Let me know if you'd like me to bring in the
mold release wax so you can try it some time. If the fill density of
the Hive's machine isn't tight enough (I have no idea), you could
always try filling it with some epoxy.

-Dave
>  IMAG0157.jpg
> 1098KViewDownload

Christopher Thompson

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Jan 25, 2011, 1:55:10 PM1/25/11
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makerbot-able molds:
---can't find any others open enough for paper. 

request line: script to make negative half molds from positive STLs.



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pezman

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Jan 25, 2011, 3:06:09 PM1/25/11
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Wow, paper LEGOs would be quite cool.
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Christopher Thompson

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Jan 25, 2011, 3:07:10 PM1/25/11
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What do you want to make?

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Christopher Thompson
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pezman

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Jan 25, 2011, 3:07:40 PM1/25/11
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BTW, using parametrics, I guess you could derive an interior mold so
that the result is a shell, rather than solid pulpy LEGO

On Jan 25, 1:55 pm, Christopher Thompson <eaglea...@gmail.com> wrote:
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Christopher Thompson

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Jan 25, 2011, 3:09:20 PM1/25/11
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you need one side to be open so the paper can dry before it rots. you can make them shells by using less paper and forming the shell onto the walls of the mold.

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Adam Kaufman

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Jan 25, 2011, 3:16:12 PM1/25/11
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I like these ideas. I would also be interested in building a pulp extruder and just printing the paper itself. bonus points for being able to feed it raw sheets of scrap.

Dave

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Jan 25, 2011, 4:54:26 PM1/25/11
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If you had a top and bottom to your mold, you might be able to use a
press to squeeze out lots of the excess water and make it strong
enough to hold together on its own, allowing you to pull out one side
of the mold (or even both). This is a bit like how powdered metallurgy
is done (powdered metal goes in a mold, ridiculous force squishes it
all together tight enough to hold its shape so you can put it in a
kiln where it sinters into a solid block). No idea if this would be
useful or just too much work. Probably the latter, as usual. ;)

Mmmm, powdered metallurgy... always wanted to try it.

-Dave

Dave

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Jan 25, 2011, 5:00:43 PM1/25/11
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Interesting... It makes me think of wasps, chewing up wood and making
their paper honeycomb nests. I assume their saliva helps act as a
binder to some degree (the 'pedia says they're waterproof). I'm sure
it helps that the structure is never very thick so it can easily air
out.

-Dave

On Jan 25, 3:16 pm, Adam Kaufman <unmotiva...@gmail.com> wrote:
> I like these ideas. I would also be interested in building a pulp extruder
> and just printing the paper itself. bonus points for being able to feed it
> raw sheets of scrap.
>
> On Tue, Jan 25, 2011 at 3:09 PM, Christopher Thompson
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Jan 25, 2011, 5:03:49 PM1/25/11
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Yeah, I'm not an entymologist (though Anne is an amateur beekeeper) but
I think an analogous idea is paper in a resin/poly/acriylic binder. I
defer to Val, but I think the paper extruder would be tough b/c paper
pulp can be clumpy and/or watery. A more viscous carrier might make it
easier, but then it's really resin molding, not papercraft.
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