Manual Nikon D600

[Rell Jette]

TheRangefinder option of the D600 uses focus points to give you an indication when the camera thinks the subject is in focus during manually focusing. I've never used that feature, but it does appear to use the in-camera's focus sensors.

ages ago(permalink)

If you are manually focusing using a AI/AIS manual lens, then the focus confirmation determines and shows focus based on the center focus point only. Or atleast thats what my experience has been.

ages ago(permalink)

I think the rangefinder manual focus is great. I learn photography back in the day with manual focus film cameras and I really missed the experience. Now that I am older, my eyes really appreciate the electronic confirmation of focus. And yes, it is very difficult for me to focus just with the view finder screen.

ages ago(permalink)

Well, coming from the days of manual focus cameras, and using split image focusing screens, I know that that doesn't guarantee a perfectly focused image either; a lot depended on how good your eyesight was and whipping your glasses on and off, etc. Some people were better wth split image, some better with the mat fresnel screen.

ages ago(permalink)

* Nick Cool *:

what focussing screen do you use? I'd be much happier using my manual focus primes. I had a google and couldn't find anything for the d600?

ages ago(permalink)

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This article is dedicated to providing you the best camera settings for Northern Lights photography. I have compiled this guide based on many years of Aurora chasing and countless hours under the northern skies trying to capture this natural phenomenon.

Before we move to explaining all the camera settings for capturing Northern Lights, I have one important piece of advice. I try to repeat this to all my customers because it is the key for a successful photoshoot.

Some lenses have an infinity sign on their focus ring. Unfortunately, more often than not, this infinity sign is not accurate. I highly recommend checking before your trip that this infinity setting produces sharp images of distant objects.

Alternatively, you can keep your camera in manual focus mode, and use the live view function at maximum magnification. Try to find some bright stars, and very gently turn your focus ring until the stars look very sharp. This is quite an advanced technique, that requires a really stable tripod, otherwise it is almost impossible to see the stars properly.

I use adhesive tape to tape together the focus ring and lens barrel to make sure that I will not inadvertently turn the ring at night in the dark. It is such a relief to be able not to worry about this at all during the entire night. Try it!

As we saw above, you need a lens with a large aperture, which converts to a small aperture value. When photographing the aurora, with your camera in manual mode (often indicated as M on a selection wheel or in a menu) just use the smallest value available.

Until recently, I was taking all my photos with a f/2.8 lens, which was my fastest available lens. In the winter 2017-2018, I started using the magnificent Sigma 14mm f/1.8 ART lens. With a f/1.8 aperture, my lens is now 1 1/3 stop faster, so it captures more than twice as much light as my previous one.

NEVER use a filter on your lens when photographing the auroras. I know that you may want to use a neutral UV filter to protect the front glass of your precious expensive lens, and I can understand that. However, filters will produce a series of concentric circles in the centre of your image, which will be consequently be ruined. It is extremely hard if not impossible to erase those circles in post processing.

After you have taken your amazing aurora photos, learn with me how to edit them! Or maybe you want to join me on one of my upcoming photo trips? During the winter trips in high latitude regions, we focus on night photography and have a chance to apply all these trips. Of course, I always stand near you to help.

Realy great information.Totally agree you should know your camera settings blindfold.

I,m just back from a trip to scandinavia,santa claus village,for the wife,got warned of snow 3 hours ahead so cut out inari and went across sweden to kiruna and Laxforsen and got some great timelapse video using the inbuilt timelapse on my nikon D600 and samyang 14mm f2.8.Also used a D5300 and 18-55mm kit lens for still shots.Still learning but what a great hobby.

I am glad I read your post. I am heading to Inari this September. Any tips on how to include a subject in the foreground in darkness, as in how to light up the subject and to have both subject and aurora in focus?

I saw your vido published on VIMEO with the tittle Chasing Aurora in Real Time in Lapland

I was in Lapland in March, so I Know how difficult it is to capture good pictures of Aurora. But, such a video, it is uncredible !

What kind of camera do you use ? Could you describe the Technical configuration ?

Thank you for all your advices and congratulation for your wonderfull pictures and vidos.

really good info. I do have a question, I am going to lapland in January 2019 and it will be a full moon, Will I still have good opportunities for color and long exposure photos 20 seconds? I shoot nikon cameras and all 2.8 lense. Is it better to under expose northern lights and work on them in post edit?

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