Cracked Turbo Symptoms

[Rell Jette]

Aturbocharger, also known as a turbo, is an additional system used by car manufacturers to boost engine power. Turbos are commonly used to deliver the same level of power in smaller cars that's usually found in larger cars.

Almost all manufacturers now offer a turbocharged model in their line-up. It means they can provide smaller engines that produce the same power output while also increasing fuel efficiency. For example, Ford have replaced their old 1.6-litre petrol engine with the new 1.0-litre turbo EcoBoost unit.

Turbos run at incredibly high speeds (up to 250,000rpm) which means they operate under huge pressures and temperatures. Typically, a turbocharger will be paired with cooling systems to cool the oil and hot air.

Turbochargers are extremely reliable. In fact, less than 1% of warranty inspections find a fault with the turbo itself; instead, blown turbos are normally the result of problems with engine lubrication or the introduction of foreign objects.

In terms of the turbocharger, it needs a constant flow of clean, quality oil. A lack of oil (oil starvation), incorrect grade of oil or poor quality oil will lead to a build up of contaminants in the engine (oil contamination). This can cause abrasive damage to the inside of the turbo.

A turbocharger is essentially made of two fundamental components: the compressor at the front and the turbine at the back. Sometimes, foreign objects such as dust particles, dirt, leaves and small stones can enter the turbo, either via the compressor inlet or turbine inlet.

If the foreign object enters the compressor housing, it often comes from the air filter. In contrast, if the foreign object causes damage to the turbine, the problem usually originates from the engine itself.

The efficiency of the turbo will be reduced if foreign objects start to damage the compressor wheels or turbine blades. To prevent this happening, your air filter should be serviced and replaced regularly. You should also check your turbo for debris.

Turbos are designed to last the lifetime of the vehicle (or around 150,000 miles); however, it's possible for them to wear out over time depending on how hard you drive the car and the original build quality of the turbo.

As soon as you spot any of the turbo failure symptoms outlined above, you should get your turbo checked as soon as possible by a qualified technician. The longer you leave it, the worse (and more expensive) the problem will get.

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There can be a range of signals that can be associated with a turbo failure. However, if you closely monitor how the car is performing, you can often spot the tell-tale signals of the most common problems and therefore confirm the possible turbo issues, with the need for a garage to then run a diagnostic test to pinpoint the root of the problem.

Once it has been determined that the turbo has blown, you have 2 options. Firstly, you can purchase a brand new turbo and have that fitted. Alternatively, if you wish to reduce the costs, it is possible to recondition and repair the turbo you have. Naturally, the preference should be to have a new turbo as this will come with a longer warranty and will last longer than a reconditioned turbo.

As can be seen from the issues highlighted above, there are plenty of points to look for and consider if you find that you have a blown turbo. If you suspect that is the case with your car and would like to discuss a replacement or would simply like some advice, please give one of our customer service team at Garage Express in North London, and our technicians and mechanics will be happy to help.

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Your turbocharger is an important part of the engine, helping you accelerate faster and get to top speeds in important situations. It gives you that thrust when you want to overtake on the motorway, quickly and safely. On some cars you can even hear a satisfying rush as the turbo kicks in, forcing air into the engine. However, if your turbo stops working properly, your engine may become inefficient and could suffer from poor performance. What are some of the signs that your turbo is failing?

The turbo pushes more air into the engine, effectively powering up the combustion, and raising the top levels of performance. It does this by using the exhaust fumes from the engine to spin an air pump, which means that the turbo draws extra power from the engine, making use of the kinetic energy delivered by the expulsion of the exhaust gases. This air pump then pushes the additional air into your engine, increasing the horsepower.

Be aware that when your turbo fails the pieces will drop down into the intercooler and the oil seals will fail. Unfortunately the engine can actually run on this oil and can run away at maximum RPM until all the oil is used up, at which point the engine will seize. If your turbo fails remove the intercooler, air box and all the tubes to avoid causing considerable damage to your engine.

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blue oily smoke is often seen when turbo seals are failing or have failed normally under acceleration or under boost,badly warn seals can cause smoke even at idle and when reved,will give of plumes of smoke if the case

Did you find out what this was? im having similar symptoms. If I start the car from cold and leave it idling for 5 mins, I get a blue smoke upon reving slightly only on 1 side though. Then its gone as quickly as it appeared and totally clear after that.

I once had a Gordini Turbo the shaft broke and the compressor turbine came right out of the housing and all the bits went into the motor wana see the damage that caused. Funny thing as there was no smoke or funny noises at all before hand. Turbo's have come on a bit since then thank god.

if its making some boost (ie above 0 then its fine) it its most likely you are running too much pressure, the ecu has protection for excess airflow which is commonly known as boost cut. turn the boost down a little and try again

still my car feels like a slug. whne i drive it... its almost as if the boost stops, like theres an empty spot. and when you change gear the boost come back only momenterly, sometimes if i keep tapping the peddal, the car goes quicker than if i were to hold it down.

its just got me stumped... coz theres lot of people boosting their stock cars and have no trouble, one dude i know with an r33 has his on 10psi stock car... with a pod filter.... and a atmo bov... hes car is running fine, a lot better than mine!!!!

you are basically working around the stock ecu's excess airflow protection. it will run mega rich and dump the timing when it picks up too much airflow. so keep turning the boost down bit by bit until it feels normal again.

At first I thought it was the exhaust wheel had disintegrated. But Burko on these forums had a look, and was in the process of changing her turbo over to my old turbo when, after he removed the turbo heat shield, he noticed the actuator arm wasn't attached anymore. The circlip that holds the arm in place had fallen off, and the gate was stuck open.

What are symptoms of a failing fuel pump. Currently my car has extreme hesitation issues at anything about 4500 rpms it bucks and feels like its misfiring almost, i replaced my plugs thinking that was the cause and it was not. Anyone have any idea?

If your fuel pump is bad the car will not start. Best way to check this is to turn on the key and wait to start the car you will hear the pump hum. If you don't hear it, it is bad. Also if it won't start and you have someone kick your fuel tank and then it magically fires up, it is a bad pump.

You said it idles like crap until it gets warmed up. Might be a head gasket leaking coolant into the cylinders. Coolant is then burned off and it runs fine. Check your coolant levels or pull a plug out after the car sits over night and see if it is wet.

If your turbocharger needs replacing, bring your diesel in to Just Autos. As performance enhancement experts, we can advise on the best replacement to get the most bang for your buck. Having partnered with some of the best aftermarket performance turbo specialists like G-Turbo, our team can source, supply, and install a brand-new turbo into your diesel. We can also provide extensive advice on proper car care and maintenance, as well as on additional performance and upgrade opportunities you may not be aware of.

To check to see if your turbo is leaking oil you'll need an endoscope. Find the downpipe at the face of the turbo unit, then unplug it. Use the endoscope to look inside. If you see oil, you may well have a problem.

Ok, let move on to the turbine seals. Now, there are a few different types of seals for the turbine shaft. Most popular is a single gap steel piston ring. Works great has been for years. Things that it does not like, high crank case pressure, low perched turbos, too much oil pressure. How many of these will blow out that seal???? NONE!!! Next seal is the gapless ring. You can do this two ways. Run a piston ring with a labyrinth lock for the gap. Or you can stack 2 rings back to back then offset the two gaps. This is very popular in the Porsche cars. A lot of those cars run 6 bar of oil pressure, low turbos, and sump pumps. For a true seal, the best set-up is two gapless rings in separate grooves. This will seal very well. There is a down side though. By the time you notice its leaking there is not much hope for a cheap rebuild.

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