How much tape??

[peach]

I'm seeing some conflicting info on this.. One part of the hexayurt
wiki says 2 rolls of 6'x60yards, the playa checklist says 4 rolls...

We got our panels (yes!) and we edged em with foil tape (to save money
and it won't melt in the heat).

When I do the quick math, seems like 4 rolls is excessive for a
hexayurt based on all the measurements. Seems like 2 would cover it
(including taping the inside ring along the tarp). Am I just bad at
math?

The tape is so expensive, we don't want to order much more than we
need. Will 2 rolls do it?

Thanks and any info you can shart will be helfpul! Thank you as always
-- peach.

[Joshua Keroes]

4.

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[hexa...@gmail.com]

It's four if you do the edges with the six inch tape. Assembly takes about two, but check the tape spreadsheet (linked from the hexayurt wiki) to double check!

Vinay

Sent from my BlackBerry® wireless device

[Jason Payne]

I cannot find the tape spreadsheet.
In fact,I never found a detailed and complete materials list...
but here is what I have...
12 Panels for basic design
2 rolls 6" filament tape{assembly only}
tape for edges like aluminum{save moolah} or 6" bidirectional filament tape
12, 6"x3/4" PVC pipe pipe for tie downs
rope for tie downs
circus tent pegs, or pegs, rebar
furnace filters for window vents

So I am asking everyone, did I miss anything, or do you have something to add?

[Jason Payne]

What about these pegs for 0.75?

http://www.campbound.com/ABS-Tent-Pegs.aspx

Also, what kind of rope?

[Mark Newell]

Hey Jason
These pegs will work but they can also bust sometimes if the playa is hard and you're using a regular hammer.  I've used many things over the years but find the plain old rebar last and works great.  You can use 12-15" lengths for your yurt with fine results, and even 3/8th will be strong enough for this application.  If you can bend it, making either a little hook at the top (most ideal), or a good 'U' shape is convenient for tying your guy lines to.  If you go with the "u', make sure the legs are parallel and straight, or they wander as you whack them in to the ground causing the ground to be disturbed along the way and weakening the hold.  Making a J works good too; you pound your rebar most of the way in, then set your line in the J, then pound it the rest of the way in to the ground, hiding the tripping/toe-ripping hazard.  If you go with the straight rebar, make sure you can tie a good half hitch or other friction type knot to keep the line on the rebar under load.  And old tennis balls work great as rebar end protectors.

So, yes they work, but they don't last.

Mark Newell
marks...@gmail.com
206-261-1784

[peach]

Thanks everyone - yes, according to my math 2 should cover assembly
(we edged with foil tape, minimize the fire risk and save some
dollars)... We will take 3 rolls of bi-dir 6" tape, so we should have
plenty of extra.

Hi Jason,

I didn't see a 'tarp' listed in your supply list. You will want one, I
believe 16x20 (or 14x16, I hear works too). And, you'll need some
heavy duty craft knives to cut the panels, if you don't have other
plans (like a jigsaw). As for rope, we used something similar to
clothes line for our other structures last year, and it worked out ok
(we used 3 strand nylon, I do believe). We're going with the same
(it's a real soft nylon, not the really rough stuff).

I'll let other weigh in, as this is my first year building a yurt (my
4th year going and building shade structures), but we DO NOT use those
plastic tent pegs. They seem to get brittle and break and don't seem
to work well on the playa. You'd be better off going with 1' rebar,
imho. 1' rebar won't cost you much at all, and it'll really hold.

And, here is the playa checklist.
http://www.appropedia.org/Hexayurt_playa_checklist
The worksheet:
http://files.howtolivewiki.com/8_foot_hexayurt_worksheet.xls

And, the main 'burning man hexyurt' page.. good info (same as the
checklist) and it's a funny read :)
http://www.appropedia.org/Hexayurt_Playa

I hope this helps you. Best -- peach

On Jul 26, 8:48 pm, Jason Payne <burningman...@gmail.com> wrote:
> What about these pegs for 0.75?
>
> http://www.campbound.com/ABS-Tent-Pegs.aspx
>
> Also, what kind of rope?
>

> On Mon, Jul 26, 2010 at 8:27 PM, Jason Payne <burningman...@gmail.com>wrote:
>
>
>
> > I cannot find the tape spreadsheet.
> > In fact,I never found a detailed and complete materials list...
> > but here is what I have...
> > 12 Panels for basic design
> > 2 rolls 6" filament tape{assembly only}
> > tape for edges like aluminum{save moolah} or 6" bidirectional filament tape
> > 12, 6"x3/4" PVC pipe pipe for tie downs
> > rope for tie downs
> > circus tent pegs, or pegs, rebar
> > furnace filters for window vents
>
> > So I am asking everyone, did I miss anything, or do you have something to
> > add?
>

> >> hexayurt+u...@googlegroups.com<hexayurt%2Bunsubscribe@googlegroups.c­om>
> >> .

> >> For more options, visit this group at
> >>http://groups.google.com/group/hexayurt?hl=en.
>
> >> --
> >> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> >> "hexayurt" group.
> >> To post to this group, send email to hexa...@googlegroups.com.
> >> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to

> >> hexayurt+u...@googlegroups.com<hexayurt%2Bunsubscribe@googlegroups.c­om>
> >> .

> >> For more options, visit this group at

> >>http://groups.google.com/group/hexayurt?hl=en.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

[Scott Geller]

Always get extra tape !!!!!! Don’t be cheap with this item !!!!

Doc saved me...now I can’t walk !
Scott Geller
13787 Pine Villa
Fort Myers, Florida
tel: 239 872 5882

814 West Bleeker, D-3
Aspen, Colorado
tel: 970 925 1715

[Steve Upstilll]

Foil tape sounds like an excellent idea. Can you be more specific? Is that a Home Depot item?

I was wondering anyway if 6" tape isn't overkill for the edges. Shouldn't 3" be able to cover a 1" material with enough overlap?

Thanks,

Steve

On Sun, Jul 25, 2010 at 11:44 PM, peach <piich...@gmail.com> wrote:

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[Ray Kornele]

There are 74'of seams in a standard hexayurt.

KrazyKorny (Krazy, not stupid)

[Jason Payne]

Taro, yes, of course. I forgot to say that. Thank you. I think I will use the cheaper 0.45 tent pegs for the tarp then. I try to refrain from rebar, considering the harm it may cause others. It just seems like a bigger hassle to use rebar, and then have to cover up the ends with foam, plastic bottles, or whatever else.

For those of you looking to tape the edges with foil tape, my experience with the Home Depot stuff was poor. It did not stick well. So I ordered this stuff...
JVCC AF12 Economy Aluminum Foil Tape
and it sticks extremely well... to the foil side, and OK to the material. Unfortunately, you can only order the 2" wide in low quantities, and I have 1.5" panels. I ordered it because of the adhesive it uses, here is a description...

[Offer excellent performance, especially for applications in temperatures less than 40°F and greater then 120°F. It provides excellent clarity, has high shear strength, is usually more permanent/durable even when exposed to moisture, and it ages well over extended periods in fluorescent and sunlight. Since it remains clear for the life of the application and does not yellow over time it is ideal for applications such as sealing white cartons. While it has good initial adhesion it does take 24-48 hours to cure and to achieve its maximum bond strength (has gradual adhesion buildup). Another difference between hot melt rubber and acrylic adhesive is if you fold tape over making the two adhesive sides touch the acrylic adhesive will remain attached to the carrier (e.g. paper, film) while a hot melt adhesive will stick to itself and pull off of the carrier. It is the best choice for clarity, UV resistance and aging characteristics]

It definitely "cured overnight, just like it says.

Honestly though, when you figure in time, if I had to do things over, I would just use the 6"filament tape.

[Jason Payne]

I meant "Tarp!" not "Taro"

[Lauren christos]

Hi everyone,

Thanks for all your posts! I've been following them voraciously and
want to make my hexayurt too! My question is: Would this be possible
to do on playa?

You see, I live in Miami and though I have been going out for years
and years, but always FLY into Reno, shop a bit, get a ride into BRC,
and set-up camp with some friends. I've been in a fairly nice tent
but would love to upgrade.

I could buy all the materials in Reno, get them out there, and build away.

I understand the moop concern, and the reality of doing of all this,
but alas, I see no alternative if I wish to have simply the best
choice of a playa dwelling.

*I almost bought one online already made, but had my ticket into Reno,
and the hexayurt was somewhere else.

Any thoughts appreciated!

dreaming o' those playa days & nights,
Lauren

[Steve Upstill]

Rebar stakes: after two years of wrangling with a big, wind-prone shade structure, I have happily settled on the scheme of bending 3/8" rebar into a long U. (The candy-cane J shape just goes nuts when you're pounding it in.) There are three tricks for this: 

1)  get a long (3 or 4 feet) section of galvanized pipe big enough to accept your rebar. Insert the rebar almost halfway, lay it on the ground and fold it into shape by bringing the galvanized up and over.

2) Get another, 1' section of galvanized big enough to barely accommodate your bended rebar. Get it threaded on one end, and put a cap on it. Insert the bent end of your rebar U into it and pound on the cap. It keeps your U from distorting in the course of pounding.

3) Think ahead about extraction, which can be a real bitch on teardown day. While I don't have a definitive solution, you need to lever the rebar out, and that can require a large moment of leverage, which in turn requires a base that won't sink into the Playa. Sadly, pipe will bend, but if your bent rebar will accommodate a 3/4" piece of plywood, think about how to use a slab of that for the purpose.

Cheers,

Steve

--

I try to be cynical, but it's so hard to keep up.

-- Lily Tomlin

[ken winston caine]

Two things:

 

1. Brilliant solution, Steve, for bending rebar into U shapes. Thank you! I, too, have wrestled with the totally unsatisfactory 'J' shapes. You're right, they don't pound into the ground well. And I've worked way too hard creating U shapes of rebar.

 

2. Uprooting rebar anchors:  This may help. It has worked for me. I carry a 3 lb shop hammer and tap vigorously on the top sides of the 'U' and later, on the edges of each arm extending into the ground. The vibration loosens the earth all around the stakes all the way to the bottom depth, making them much easier to tug out. (Though, still sometimes they are a challenge.) I also use a nail-puller crow-bar for tugging, hooking the curved part of the crow bar through the rebar "loop." Sometimes beating upward with the hammer on the bottom of the crowbar while it is hooked around the rebar helps. At the very least, it makes an impressive clanging, clinking noise.

[Steve Upstill]

I really like the idea of using this tape, but I would go for 4" width at least, which as Jason says can only be bought in 12-roll lots. FindTape.com has 50-yard rolls for $13.66 ea. (half the price of 60-yard 6" bifilament tape). Anybody care to share an order?

By my precise calculations, the 8' hexayurt has 394' of edges. 1 roll is 50 yards, so I need 3 rolls. Anybody else?

Cheers,

Steve

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