Walls

[Cheese]

I am using the 1.5" thermasheath from Home Depot for the roof.
However for the walls, I am going to use a combination of 7/16" OSB
and 1/2" Thermasheath. I am going to glue these sheets together with
liquid nails to make sturdy insulated panels. The walls will still
have a R rating of 3.6+ and will allow you to screw brackets/hinges to
hold the walls together. This reduces the amount of expensive tape
needed and adds a lot of strength.

I followed the tape videos for the roof and it worked great. No need
to bevel the edges. Definite recommendation for prefabbing your
yurt. The tape I used worked great and is cheap! It is called
sheathing tape.

http://www.amazon.com/Scapa-House-Wrap-Splicing-Sheathing/dp/B000QC4BG6/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1306809633&sr=8-5

The great thing about that tape is that it is strong and does not rip,
it stretches. Once everything is up on the playa, I am going to put a
layer of metal tape over it to block light from coming through to keep
it nice and dark inside.

I have altered my design because of additional people coming and have
opted to make a modified 4 bedroom, 1bath H13 with an 8'x8' wood frame
in the middle to expand for a living room for almost 380 sq ft. of
living space.

I am trying to figure out how to share the design with goggle sketchup
but I keep getting an error. Any thoughts, ideas, or even help how to
get my design sketch to upload is greatly appreciated.

[Cheese]

Here is a link to my sketchup file.

https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=0B97FoBDcf2zSNzY5MDk5YmUtZWIzNC00NDU5LWE2ZDItZDY0YzNlY2ZiOWZm&hl=en_US&authkey=CPyuvJAP

Would love to hear some thoughts.

Thank you

On May 30, 7:54 pm, Cheese <jper...@gmail.com> wrote:
> I am using the 1.5" thermasheath from Home Depot for the roof.
> However for the walls, I am going to use a combination of 7/16" OSB
> and 1/2" Thermasheath.  I am going to glue these sheets together with
> liquid nails to make sturdy insulated panels.  The walls will still
> have a R rating of 3.6+ and will allow you to screw brackets/hinges to
> hold the walls together.  This reduces the amount of expensive tape
> needed and adds a lot of strength.
>
> I followed the tape videos for the roof and it worked great.  No need
> to bevel the edges.    Definite recommendation for prefabbing your
> yurt.  The tape I used worked great and is cheap! It is called
> sheathing tape.
>

> http://www.amazon.com/Scapa-House-Wrap-Splicing-Sheathing/dp/B000QC4B...

[Cheese]

After another trip to Home Depot, I found 1/4" wall paneling was just
$2 more than the 7/16" OSB and a lot lighter. So I am making the
change to my wall panels to include the paneling and go with 3/4"
Thermasheath instead of the 1/2" to stay at a 1" panel. If anyone
knows what type of adhesive will work best attaching the wood wall
panel to the 3/4" Thermasheath, I would love to hear it. I was also
thinking about screws and larger washers, thinking the paper backing
on the thermasheath may eventually start to peel. Glue would be a lot
faster though.

11 panels for roof
11 panels for the walls + 1 door

The Stanley FatMax Xtreme 25mm Snap-Off Cartridge Knife cut through
the 1.5" roof panels very well.

On May 31, 7:14 pm, Cheese <jper...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Here is a link to my sketchup file.
>

> https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=0B97FoBDcf2zSNzY5MDk5YmUtZWIzNC00NDU5...

[Cheese]

I also updated my sketchup file to include the 8x8" wood frame that
everything will anchor to.

https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=0B97FoBDcf2zSNzY5MDk5YmUtZWIzNC00NDU5LWE2ZDItZDY0YzNlY2ZiOWZm&hl=en_US&authkey=CPyuvJAP

I will anchor the frame with stakes and thought leaving the 2x4" on
base at door and between main room and bedrooms will be helpful.

[ken winston caine]

Cheese -- am wondering two things:

1. What is the small, rectangular room to the left of the door?

2. It looks like the main room is 8' deep and about (my guess, I haven't
figured out how to get sketch up to show me actual measurements on this) 16'
to 18' wide. 8' is pretty tight, says this man living in an RV at the
moment. Am wondering if you would be happier adding 5 more panels (2 walls,
3 roof) and deepening the main room to 12'?

That would mean your 2x4 box structure would need to be 8'x12' instead of
8'x8'.

P.S. I like what you're doing. Don't like that it loses the nice
low-wind-resistance profile of the hex shape. Do like that it makes really
efficient use of materials and provides a more Western-llike design that
will feel familiar and comfortable to many people.

I can see adapting this to a permanent structure with the door side facing
south and being mostly glassed in for solar gain. In a design I've been
playing with, I'm planning to use (used) sliding glass doors for the south
facing glazing -- which solves the door issue. (Althoguh, in a permanent
residence, you want two doors -- for emergency escape, etc. If glassed in,
would need some sort of overhang on the south side to keep the direct summer
sun out. But with adequate thermal mass inside, could be essentially a
self-heating, passive-solar living unit.

Not as efficient use of off-the-shelf materials, but for a permanent
structure, I would want the walls to be at least 6' tall. But then, I
suppose, I'd need to make the center section taller, too, in order to have
adequate roof pitch. So that would be a whole 'nuther design variation.

Thanks for the sketchups. And now I've got to master the sketchup program so
I can easily check measurements. And start sketching up my own designs.

Best,
ken winston caine

[Cheese]

1. The small room by the door is going to be our endless shower. I am
designing a 2 stage recirculating shower. Stage 1 is for cleaning,
stage 2 will be the filtered recirculating part and kept separate from
stage 1 water, so there will not be any dirt or soap recirculating.

2. The dimensions are about 24'x16'. My idea was to have a living
area that was 8'x24' which could be 8'x16' if another unexpected last
minute person decides to come with us. I agree, the extra panels
would add a lot more living space, but my space is somewhat limited
where I will be camping.

You could very easily build all the way around the center box to keep
the low wind resistance. My two restrictions were space and cost that
I have been trying to keep in check.

I have been looking around for a sliding glass door as well!

As you can see, I still have a lot to learn working with sketchup.
The thing that helped me the most with sketchup is:

1. Click "View" Tab, then "Toolbars", then check "measurements"
This will show you measurements on the bottom left of screen. So if
you want to make an 8' box. Click the rectangle tool and draw a
rectangle of any size, then hit tab (will will send you to measurement
window) and type 8',8' in that format. That will make a rectangle
8'x8' for you, then with the push/pull button you can make it 3D and
tab it back to measurement window and type 8' to have an 8' cube.
Works same way with anything you draw. Hope that speeds the learning
curve.


On Jun 3, 12:03 pm, "ken winston caine"

> https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=0B97FoBDcf2zSNzY5MDk5YmUtZWIzNC00NDU5...

[KK]

On Jun 3, 11:22 am, Cheese <jper...@gmail.com> wrote:
 If anyone
> knows what type of adhesive will work best attaching the wood wall
> panel to the 3/4" Thermasheath, I would love to hear it.

Fiberglass RV's use Stabond contact adhesive for Filon siding to foam/
wood. I don't know what exact Stabond part number is foam compatible:

http://www.all-rite.com/stabond-t440-p-130.html

http://www.outbackteardrop.com/body4.html

Apply with roller to both pieces and let it dry slightly 5-45 mins.
Then stick foam to wood. It will grab instantly and permanently.
Test first for foam compatibility then practice before gluing.

Also, use pink or blue foam board. It keeps it's R value WAY longer
than foil foam board. Foil foam boards absorb moisture and degrade
over time. Pink and blue do not. Dow has all the math and documents on
this.

Plus pink and blue foam are much less flammable.

There is another way to make your own super tough bonded panels. I
won't go into it here though.

More info on foam to wood:

Foam pads should be glued to your kayak with contact cement, but not
all of these glues are suitable. Some brands have recently been
reformulated for safety or environmental reasons. Many are not
waterproof and lack holding power. Use a commercial-grade waterproof
contact cement. It is flammable, nasty-smelling stuff! Hydrogrip
Adhesive, Shore Adhesive, Sea Bond, Sta-Bond, and Shoemaker's "Barge
Cement" are all good choices. No smoking in the shop, please!

Contact cement can be pretty unforgiving to work with. You only get
one chance to position a pad correctly; then, like it or not, it's
stuck.

There was another common contact cement I found in gallons. It was for
RV use too. Will have to look for the link.

[Cheese]

If you can find the other contact cement please let me know. I think
the Stabond is out of my budget.

[Cheese]

Here is a photo of the Wood paneling sticker from Home Depot, I
bought:
https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&pid=explorer&chrome=true&srcid=0B97FoBDcf2zSOWZjZjlkZmYtMmYzMi00ZTkwLThiZTItMDFlN2NkYjI3YTc1&hl=en_US&authkey=CNzbo70F

I went the cheaper route and used liquid nails. I got about 3-3.5
panels per tube by placing a quarter size drop every 12" or so. The
3/4" Thermasheath and the 1/4" wood panel make for a nice insulated,
durable panel. Obviously it does add weight, I only did this for the
walls. This also allows you to have brackets joining the Hexayurt
walls together from the inside and only taping for dust and weather on
the outside allowing you to use a much cheaper tape like the FlexFix.

[Cody Firestone]

excellent idea.  I've been advocating a SIS or "stress skin panel" versoin of the hexayurt for a while.

a SIS is a plywood sandwich, with insulation in the middle.  I've used 1/4 inch plywood, which is very cheap, and a thicker 3 inch foam insul panel, so....

Ive used this with barns and small cabins and it is gREAT!  Yes, you need a little more support, but it is wonderful

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[Vinay Gupta (Hexayurt Shelter Project)]

I've heard great things about this approach. If I can't swing the
polyiso/concrete approach for my hexayurt this winter, I'll probably
wind up doing it that way!

V>

--
Vinay Gupta
Free Science and Engineering in the Global Public Interest

http://hexayurt.com - free/open next generation human sheltering
http://hexayurt.com/plan - the whole systems, big picture vision

"In the midst of winter, I finally learned that there was in me an
invincible summer" - Albert Camus

Twitter/Skype/Gizmo/Gtalk/AIM: hexayurt
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[Cody Firestone]

you can also use 3/8 wall board on the inside for a "finished" look.  taped with wall board tape and smoothed out and painted,  looks like a "real" house!!!!

you may also want to think about "ferro concrete" which is using a wire mesh, and smushing the concrete into the matrix with your hand,  i've built very strong cisterns, a catfish pond and a garage with this.  It is awesome cheap and easy