Heating a hexayurt
lance95
everyone for the work that they have done. I am impressed.
I’m very interested in empowering myself and others to survive in a
battered economy. I have, for the last couple of years, studied a wide
range of options for those with only minimal resources.
I am very involved with alternative medical treatments, especially
those associated with Qi Gong. I believe medical issues to be very
important area since our quality of life depends largely on the state
of our health.
My research suggests to me that one might be well advised to remember
that threats to one’s plans to survive a calamity can arise from many
sources, which include the federal, state and local governments.
Consider the harassment that can come for simple vagrancy.
In regard to semi permanent shelters, I’m greatly interested in both
the traditional yurt designs and the hexayurt. Has anyone extensively
tested the hexayurt in cold climates where there is the possibility of
heavy snowfalls?
And what about heating the hexayurt? Wood gasification stoves—forced
air stoves—are fine for cooking out in the open, but the don’t meet
the needs of someone cooking in a hexayurt that lacks some kind of a
chimney.
I realize that there are archives. And I will try to access them.
Possibly concerns such as mine have already been fully addressed.
Thanks again.
Royce
Plague
you have proper ventilation it stays cool in the day and warm at
night.
I will tell you that using the materials discussed(Insulation Board -
Thermaxxx?) worked great. The issue has come up that it is very
flammable and that is why I am looking at cardboard now.
Pentayurts have been suggested for use in heavy snow fall areas.
There is a poster that has had one season worth of use out of his and
if I remember the thread they said it went well.
A stove in the center of the yurt is traditional and it should be able
to effectively heat the entire area fairly well. Honestly I would
love to do real world testing on different designs in different
environment.
How long are you building this for? I think knowing how long it may
be up will determine the best product or method to create it.
Rich Shumaker
The Distinguished ...
On Mon, 2009-05-11 at 11:24 -0700, lance95 wrote:
> This is my first day on this discussion board. And I want to thank
> everyone for the work that they have done. I am impressed.
It is quite impressive.
> I’m very interested in empowering myself and others to survive in a
> battered economy. I have, for the last couple of years, studied a wide
> range of options for those with only minimal resources.
And, if you read some of the essays our Fearless Leader has put out,
there is lots of information on how to transport and build
minimal-resource infrastructure, starting with a shipping container full
of supplies, and ending with housing and a field-hospital.
> I am very involved with alternative medical treatments, especially
> those associated with Qi Gong. I believe medical issues to be very
> important area since our quality of life depends largely on the state
> of our health.
You might want to talk to Dr. Evan Hughes about such things, he has
several good talks about such balances.
> My research suggests to me that one might be well advised to remember
> that threats to one’s plans to survive a calamity can arise from many
> sources, which include the federal, state and local governments.
Indeed, although most of the focus here has been on disaster recovery,
theoretically with the support of the Federal, State and Local
governments, rather than in opposition to them. Most of the work, here
has been on temporary structures, rather than permanent ones, with the
exception of the co-op farm (search the archives for more information)
> Consider the harassment that can come for simple vagrancy.
Vagrancy is a whole other topic, that I'm not sure this is the correct
forum to focus on such within. Safer to talk engineering, rather than
causes. We all want these, for our various reasons, and when they
effect the design (as my reasons did) it makes sense, but ... if it is
outside the design reasons ... we should leave that to the business of
the private individual.
> In regard to semi permanent shelters, I’m greatly interested in both
> the traditional yurt designs and the hexayurt. Has anyone extensively
> tested the hexayurt in cold climates where there is the possibility of
> heavy snowfalls?
I have experience with both ger (yurt means village and ger means house)
and hexayurt designs. Last fall, I was experimenting with the Hexayurt
design, for winter storage (due to a sudden lack of my standard 12'
diameter, 5' high ger, because one of my friends needed to live in it
for the winter, his contractors royally screwed the building of his
house, and his "newly poured" foundation was crumbling within weeks of
it being poured) and found that the simulated snow-weight on the roof,
with the extra weight of the building materials (orient-strand board,
ledger-board, and flashing, basically) wasn't going to hold up to a New
England winter. So I erected a Pentayurt (well ... at the moment, just
the roof, up on cinder blocks, then it started snowing, the rest will be
going up as soon as I have time in the next several weeks) and the
pentayurt roof, with 2-foot cinder-block walls worked just fine,
structurally. In terms of living in it? I'd want to do a lot more to
it, to keep it warm, and habitable. It also survived winds that the
Thermax design might not have survived. A ger is also well-suited to
wind-swept snowy areas, the more the wind, the more the convection
pushes the yurt closer to the ground, as opposed to taking off with it,
like a circus tent. Ask some Pennsic Hurricane veterans about what
structures were standing and what structures were just gone.
> And what about heating the hexayurt? Wood gasification stoves—forced
> air stoves—are fine for cooking out in the open, but the don’t meet
> the needs of someone cooking in a hexayurt that lacks some kind of a
> chimney.
For my ger, that was lived in, up in northern Maine, there is the
outer-layer (canvas), a vapor barrier layer (tyvek attached to felt),
the khana, and then the inner wall layer (duralon (I believe that's the
name of it)). About 2 feet away from one of the walls was a pipe-hole,
surrounded by cement-board/insulating foam sandwich inset in the rafters
(and had things attached to it, to make an appropriate vapor barrier as
well) that the pellet-fed wood/cook stove was vented. We didn't really
have to worry about a snow-load, although the plug for the standard
ring-hole was a bit of a problem (not as tight a water-seal as he would
have liked, even though he insisted on being able to open it, all winter
long, because he liked the sky and the airflow through his house) but he
lived comfortably in it for the whole winter.
I would _not_ have been comfortable putting the stove in either a wood
or an insulation-board Pentayurt. Too much structural dependency on the
setup, and not enough space to be able to safely separate the heat from
the stove, from the construction materials. Also, it might burn up too
much oxygen, and not leave enough for the residents.
> I realize that there are archives. And I will try to access them.
> Possibly concerns such as mine have already been fully addressed.
Much more is in the archives, it's well worth the look.
> Thanks again.
>
> Royce
Percival
lance95
Obviously, if one has sufficient resources, one can simply buy a fully
equipped retreat that is complete with provisions.
But I’m choosing to focus upon an average, North American citizen who
may have to abandon his or her home in the middle of the night--
possibly with children and pets. In gentle climates, one needs little
more than a tarp and a wool blanket for protection against the
elements.
But when the temperatures drop and the snow begins to fly, a good warm
shelter is of paramount importance. This is especially true for the
very young and old, along with those who are either sick or injured.
The northern latitudes can be very cruel in the winter.
The hexayurt has a lot going for it, but the basic units have to be
heated in the winter. And at this juncture, I’m not sure how to do
that.
That causes me to, once again, look at yurts/ gers. I’m speaking of
the convention kinds. Some nice ones can be bought from a number of
sources. And they are both beautiful and functional—often complete
with electricity, plumbing and woodstove.
But those kinds of yurts probably aren’t going to be an option for the
person who must evacuate in the middle of the night. So I’m looking
for something that can be built with easily obtainable materials—such
as odds and ends from local hardware stores, or salvaged from
demolished buildings. One key part you need when building a yurt is a
good “roof ring.”
One of the major challenges is designing a “roof ring” that can easily
be made from common materials. At one time, I had a decent home
workshop that featured a good table-saw, circular saw, router and
drill press. With those tools, I was able to do some pretty fancy
work. Certainly, building a good, “roof ring” would have been a simple
job.
Now I have nothing but a couple of hand saws, a small saber saw and a
portable drill. Most of the roof rings I have seen can’t be created as
quickly and as easily as I would like. Yes……………personally, I could
build one even with my paltry selection of tools, but I have the
advantage of a lot of experience.
A good friend of mine is endeavoring to design a new sort of “roof
ring”, we shall see what he comes up with.
Many of the experienced yurt people I have talked to concede that
there’s a problem; unfortunately, they are vague about possible
solutions.
Please don’t misunderstand, I’m not looking for a personal solution. I
have the time and resources to either buy or rent what I need to build
a roof ring. Hell………….I can afford to buy a complete kit. That’s not
the issue. What I want to do is to come up with solutions for others.
As a final note, keep in mind that those who don’t own property might
have to move their yurt/ger frequently.
Anyway, there are a lot of issues to confront.
Sincerely,
Royce
On May 11, 4:30 pm, "The Distinguished ..." <percyha...@gmail.com>
wrote:
JWells
For those that do not know of this lantern, I believe you are going to be
impressed.
The company is called Britelyt
And can be found here http://www.britelyt.com/
- lots more to read over there and worth the read.
500CP Lantern output in BTU's approx: 9,500 to 11,000 per hour Lantern,
without heating adapter will heat a 20' x 20' area) with our heating unit
only. Lantern, with heating adapter, will heat a 20' x 20' area - output
of 9,500 to approx. 20,500 btu's per hour.
They also have a stove adapter or stand alone
They burn "any" fuel
JO
Plague
It worked great and I put it together poorly I did it mostly by
myself and I didn't cut one straight edge. I also didn't tie it down
completely and my ropes got loosened. It still didn't blow away it
just did an odd breathing thing when it was windy. When I did tie it
down it was rock solid. Oh and I did not use all of the anchors cuz I
lost something like tent pegs or something. That was more than a day
ago so it has left my brain.
The main issue I had was the break down. With all the metal tape and
the bifilament tape I cut myself up a bit. Should have worn gloves.
Also the break down made it difficult to reuse.
I am looking at using some type of wrap(think bungy meets sports tape)
instead of bifilament tape for the ring.
I am also exploring velcro and legos as wall connector options. I
might also try to do what my training matts do which is jigsaw
together. That is more difficult and cuts down on overall size so I
am avoiding it right now.
I want to re-use my Hexayurt on all my travels. Using non reusable
things like Bifilament tape makes that difficult. Also I am trying to
keep the building blocks around 48" X 48" as they are easier to
transport.
I will let you know as things go along how they are going.
Rich Shumaker
The Distinguished ...
On Mon, 2009-05-11 at 17:31 -0700, lance95 wrote:
> Thanks to all who have responded.
>
> Obviously, if one has sufficient resources, one can simply buy a fully
> equipped retreat that is complete with provisions.
Were you to do that, I'd recommend an underground retreat, with a very
small, defensible top-side foot-print, seal-able, and with sufficient
truck-garden to help the air, and give you food. Power from a sterling
engine, and geo-thermal boost to heating/cooling, water purification
plant, and perhaps a loose herd, and some wild-farming on top. But
that's just me.
> But I’m choosing to focus upon an average, North American citizen who
> may have to abandon his or her home in the middle of the night--
> possibly with children and pets. In gentle climates, one needs little
> more than a tarp and a wool blanket for protection against the
> elements.
Actually, with a decent sized, and thickness tarp, and wool blanket, and
some sticks, that is all you need to protect yourself from the elements.
> But when the temperatures drop and the snow begins to fly, a good warm
> shelter is of paramount importance. This is especially true for the
> very young and old, along with those who are either sick or injured.
> The northern latitudes can be very cruel in the winter.
It can be, but, to add foreshadowing, I'll point out that a number of
folks used to make their lives the way you are describing, without much
of a problem.
> The hexayurt has a lot going for it, but the basic units have to be
> heated in the winter. And at this juncture, I’m not sure how to do
> that.
The hesayurts as currently designed, are not necessarily as portable as
you are imagining. The 4x8 sheets are somewhat prone to damage, when
they aren't in the yurt configuration, well taped. Dragging, or driving
them around makes them both impact and edge-vulnerable.
> That causes me to, once again, look at yurts/ gers. I’m speaking of
> the convention kinds. Some nice ones can be bought from a number of
> sources. And they are both beautiful and functional—often complete
> with electricity, plumbing and woodstove.
Yes, very useful, but, perhaps, not as portable as you would like.
Granted, my 12' in diameter one fits nicely on a roof-rack, but it is,
indeed, all pre-built, so I don't need to look for anything except for
gas outside of my own resources.
> But those kinds of yurts probably aren’t going to be an option for the
> person who must evacuate in the middle of the night. So I’m looking
> for something that can be built with easily obtainable materials—such
> as odds and ends from local hardware stores, or salvaged from
> demolished buildings. One key part you need when building a yurt is a
> good “roof ring.”
Indeed, at this juncture, I'd delight in pointing out another structure
that you should be looking at. That of a TeePee. It is made of said
tarp (preferably canvas) and wool (the liner) and held up by either
poles you pull from wrecked buildings, or harvest from trees, and a bit
of rope. You have to make your tarp and your liner special, but ...
they don't have to be that big and bulky, and you can harvest the poles
from wherever you end up, most likely. The Native Americans lived in
them, in the harshest New England winters that I know of, and have read
of others in the northern mid-west. Some of the Aluet tribes still live
in them in the Canadian Nonavit territory, which is quite harsh winter
conditions.
> One of the major challenges is designing a “roof ring” that can easily
> be made from common materials. At one time, I had a decent home
> workshop that featured a good table-saw, circular saw, router and
> drill press. With those tools, I was able to do some pretty fancy
> work. Certainly, building a good, “roof ring” would have been a simple
> job.
The roof ring, and the edge connector are the most important parts of
the ger, and they are not something simple or necessarily easily
garnered in an urban or even suburban wasteland. Even the Khana is
difficult to reproduce at a moment's notice. Having one, and having it
ready, if you need to evacuate, due to imminent weather, or fire does
make it possible, and even, somewhat, easy. Of course, setting up a ger
is a specialized skill, and one that has to be done by more than one
able-bodied person. On the other hand, I've seen TeePees put up by one,
very pregnant woman, on her own. (We offered to help her, as soon as
our ger was set up, but she, alone got the TeePee up and in place, by
herself, without straining, before we were done with our ger setup.
> Now I have nothing but a couple of hand saws, a small saber saw and a
> portable drill. Most of the roof rings I have seen can’t be created as
> quickly and as easily as I would like. Yes……………personally, I could
> build one even with my paltry selection of tools, but I have the
> advantage of a lot of experience.
You would need a hand-saw, and maybe a hammer (to break away the urban
pieces that you would need to break away, to get at what you would need
for your spars) and some rope, once you have sewn the tarp and liner
into the right shapes. (Or bought them. They are not that expensive.
Matter of fact, I've seen some kids video-game budget to be larger than
the cost of a pre-made set.) Just have them in a (or two, depending on
who is going to carry them) backpack by the door, on a shelf, along with
potable water, your camp-stove, some spare clothing, spare foot-gear and
cash, and you can pretty much just grab it and go in an emergency. Even
if the roads are closed, you can go on foot.
> A good friend of mine is endeavoring to design a new sort of “roof
> ring”, we shall see what he comes up with.
Many designs have been made over time. Some have failed spectacularly,
others have become more and more commonly adopted, depending.
> Many of the experienced yurt people I have talked to concede that
> there’s a problem; unfortunately, they are vague about possible
> solutions.
It's not a problem, it's a function of the structure. If you choose
that structure, that is part of the function. If you choose, say, a
hexayurt structure, you have to deal with the taping/untaping. It's one
of the functions of the structure. A TeePee has other functional
limits. For example, it's really hard to have connected TeePees, unless
you are building on a platform, or burrowing under ground. Every
structure contains the choices you make. I wouldn't for example want to
end up in a desert, and expecting to scrounge the poles.
> Please don’t misunderstand, I’m not looking for a personal solution. I
> have the time and resources to either buy or rent what I need to build
> a roof ring. Hell………….I can afford to buy a complete kit. That’s not
> the issue. What I want to do is to come up with solutions for others.
If you aren't looking for yourself, than whatever solution you might
find, will probably not suit your intended audience. Because if you
don't plan on using it, living it, and testing it, before saying to
someone else "this works" ... well ... I, for one, would not trust your
advice. The Hexayurt folks have done that, and their design
improvements come from that.
> As a final note, keep in mind that those who don’t own property might
> have to move their yurt/ger frequently.
Again, it's much easier to move a TeePee than a ger, or a Hexayurt.
> Anyway, there are a lot of issues to confront.
Indeed.
> Sincerely,
> Royce
Percival
Richard Ginn
One idea is that a certain level of insulation will allow body heat alone to warm the hexayurt enough to make it comfortable, or at least survivable, without any stove or other heat source. I made some quick calculations and found that a double-thick wall (2" or even 4") would be enough to do this.
Here's the spreadsheet I used to play with these values, it's public and you can edit this version collectively online (I don't know what happens if everyone does this but we will find out?):
http://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?key=rmQX7jB6fyQyIiupDv_JW-A
Play with that, see what happens :)
And the non-editable source version is here, which you can view, and export for your own use offline:
http://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?key=peGYuk9F27fr7LwntwVZEDA
Basically, if the walls are insulated enough and you control air exchange enough, and you have enough people in the shelter, then it is warm enough with only body heat. Thinking about "Day Zero" or "Day 1" scenarios, people need to survive the first night as easily as possible. Also, a 'body heat only' shelter eliminates the danger that a stove creates (fireball).
Richard Ginn
mentee
Did you see the post I made today “[hexayurt] Heat, cook and read w/ any fuel”
Your light can also be your heat and cooking source, I’m saving up for one now
From: hexa...@googlegroups.com [mailto:hexa...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Richard Ginn
Sent: Friday, May 15, 2009 1:34 PM
To: hexa...@googlegroups.com
Subject: [hexayurt] Re: Heating a
hexayurt
On Mon, May 11, 2009 at 2:24 PM, lance95 <lan...@hotmail.com> wrote:
Lance Culp
If you aren't looking for yourself, than whatever solution you might
find, will probably not suit your intended audience. Because if you
don't plan on using it, living it, and testing it, before saying to
someone else "this works" ... well ... I, for one, would not trust your
advice. The Hexayurt folks have done that, and their design
improvements come from that."
Hello Percival,
My goodness you won’t take my advice???????????? Aaaaaaaaa geeeeeeee bitter disappointments are never ending!!!!!!!!!!!!!! And I had such high hopes!!!!!!!!!
My advice is free!
How in the world might I change your mind?????????
You may be too young to remember, but the astronauts who landed their module on the moon back in 1969 had never done it before. They depended upon simulation.
Still not convinced?????????????? Oh well………………………..
Maybe my confidence is misplaced, but I very comfortable with tools, so I’m going to bet that I can put a pretty good yurt together, especially since I have the advantage of talking with folks such as yourself to keep me from blundering too badly.
Having spent a lot of time in the woods, both as a civilian and soldier—I’m a veteran of the Vietnam War-- I’m comfortable with the challenges presented by extreme conditions. I think that survival under a harsh environment requires a kind of general education that allows one to adapt to ever changing circumstances.
As an avocation, I’m working with a number of friends in my community to help others develop various skills that we think will hold them in good stead in times of emergency. All of us have experience with so-called primitive living. I don’t claim to be an expert on yurts or teepees, but I have spent a lot of time erecting tarp shelters and then sleeping under them. And I can put up a pretty wickiup. Anyway, I will struggle along as best I can and try, whenever possible, to lend a hand to others.
Anyway, thank you for your insights, which I consider, on balance, to be very good.
Royce
Royce replies:
> Subject: [hexayurt] Re: Heating a hexayurt
lance95
"If you aren't looking for yourself, than whatever solution you might
find, will probably not suit your intended audience. Because if you
don't plan on using it, living it, and testing it, before saying to
someone else "this works" ... well ... I, for one, would not trust
your
advice. The Hexayurt folks have done that, and their design
improvements come from that."
Lance Culp
The lantern looks very nice. And the fact that you can use multiple kinds of fuel is great. That lantern would be a nice device for adding both light and heat to a hexayurt. So I may just order one of those lanterns. But I guess it is safe to say that most folks will not have such a lantern when the last balloon goes up.
Consequently, I got thinking about field expedient ways to heat the hexayurt. If the hexayurt is set up in an urban or suburban area, you have a markedly different situation than you do when you are in the woods. As I see it, the hexayurt will most frequently be used in urban and suburban areas. So starting fires in order to heat stones to be put into the hexayurt for radiant heat may not be a realistic option.
We should remember that isopropyl rubbing alcohol does not produce carbon monoxide, so you can safely burn alcohol in an indoor situation.
One easy way to add heat to a hexayurt, at least on a short term basis, is to construct a coffee can heater. It’s simple enough. Just take a coffee can and fill it about half way full with dry sand and then add alcohol. Now light the device. A bit of manipulation will allow you to both heat and cook with the apparatus.
If you don’t want to use sand, you can use toilet paper in a can.
http://www.wrh.noaa.gov/ggw/pdf/winter_survival_1.pdf
No……………..I haven’t come up with a panacea, but it’s one more idea to add to your mental tool chest.
Royce
From: men...@starband.net
The Distinguished ...
On Sat, 2009-05-16 at 04:17 +0000, Lance Culp wrote:
> Percival wrote to
>
>
> If you aren't looking for yourself, than whatever solution you might
> find, will probably not suit your intended audience. Because if you
> don't plan on using it, living it, and testing it, before saying to
> someone else "this works" ... well ... I, for one, would not trust
> your
> advice. The Hexayurt folks have done that, and their design
> improvements come from that."
>
>
>
> Hello Percival,
> My goodness you won’t take my advice???????????? Aaaaaaaaa geeeeeeee
> bitter disappointments are never ending!!!!!!!!!!!!!! And I had such
> high hopes!!!!!!!!!
folks you are theoretically setting up for, are the audience, I have
found, on the whole, does not take advice well, nor understand the
seriousness of a circumstance, until they are plunged into it, headlong.
I have a large number of friends. Some who have prepared various
contingencies in their world, and others, who either disbelieve that
disaster would strike that they could prepare for, or that when disaster
struck, no matter what they prepared wouldn't be right/enough, so why
bother wasting resources on it.
Oh, and btw, I work in the "Disaster recovery" field, so convincing
folks about how to prepare for various disasters is often what I spend
my days doing.
> My advice is free!
And worth every penny I paid for it? *grin*
> How in the world might I change your mind?????????
about what might happen to them in the future, more than, say 5 years
from now? That they actually have, say, 11 gallons of good water per
person put aside, and the stock rotated through so it doesn't get stale,
for those times that City Water might break down/become
contaminated/have the pipes being flushed, or the like. Or show me that
the greater percentage of people actually pace the hall, or count doors
from them to the emergency exit in the hotel they are staying in, for
the weekend. Or, simply, if they know if their emergency flashlights
are charged/have fresh batteries, and where they are.
> You may be too young to remember, but the astronauts who landed their
> module on the moon back in 1969 had never done it before. They
> depended upon simulation.
before them, testing out, and using every bit of equipment, under the
harshest conditions possible, here on earth. They had, personally,
worked with every technique, and trained so they knew what each sound,
each shift, and each subtle change in their interaction meant.
I would have been more impressed, had you talked about the first person
to go weightless (and survive) or the astronauts who managed to land the
very damaged Apollo mission (13) for innovating under pressure. But
again, they are well-trained individuals, sought for their ability to
improvise under difficult circumstances.
When we talk about disaster relief and the set-up of such things, we
start with a trained team, and hope that, as the refugees manage to get
more and more on their feet, some of the less-shell-shocked ones can
help expand the crews setting up the hexayurt housing, or the like. We
don't expect the folks fleeing the tidal wave/fire/hurricane/et al to be
able to construct their own, without help, and aid first.
> Still not convinced?????????????? Oh well………………………..
> Maybe my confidence is misplaced, but I very comfortable with tools,
> so I’m going to bet that I can put a pretty good yurt together,
> especially since I have the advantage of talking with folks such as
> yourself to keep me from blundering too badly.
research, before you just need to create one, on the spur of the moment,
so you are comfortable with the tech first. 2) You are actually handy
with tools, as opposed to the average suburbanite, who might be able to
change their oil without killing themselves. 3) You have had experience
in living in the field, and understand what "shelter" connotes, and
where the problems with a fancy cover over a dirt hole might be, so you
could compensate for them, or at least, shore them up to the best of
your ability, before they turn around and bite you. And, 4) From the way
you write, it sounds like you would take a dry run, or two before that
hour of need is, so you might have the right equipment, at the right
time, or know what you are missing and how to scrounge it properly, when
you needed to.
> Having spent a lot of time in the woods, both as a civilian and
> soldier—I’m a veteran of the Vietnam War-- I’m comfortable with the
> challenges presented by extreme conditions. I think that survival
> under a harsh environment requires a kind of general education that
> allows one to adapt to ever changing circumstances.
aren't doing this for you, but for the average individual, who, if the
commuter bus doesn't come, their only option is waiting for the next
commuter bus ...
> As an avocation, I’m working with a number of friends in my community
> to help others develop various skills that we think will hold them in
> good stead in times of emergency. All of us have experience with
> so-called primitive living. I don’t claim to be an expert on yurts or
> teepees, but I have spent a lot of time erecting tarp shelters and
> then sleeping under them. And I can put up a pretty wickiup. Anyway, I
> will struggle along as best I can and try, whenever possible, to lend
> a hand to others.
http://www.amazon.com/Tipis-Yurts-Authentic-Circular-Shelters/dp/0937274887
(I got my copy from the library)
It's excellent for, I think, what you are looking for.
http://www.coloradoyurt.com/tipis might also answer a few questions for
you, as well.
> Anyway, thank you for your insights, which I consider, on balance, to
> be very good.
>
>
> Royce
Percival
Lance Culp
Crafting a common message that will cause the average North American to start to prepare for a disaster may be just short of impossible. People don’t want to think about hard times.
Powerful forces are at work to reassure people that bad things just aren’t going to happen. Bad things happen across the pond in so-called third world countries.
Anything that might be interpreted as doom and gloom is ridiculed.
And some folks really believe that preparing for difficult times is likely to cause difficult times to manifest.
So unless our zeitgeist changes radically, there simply isn’t going to be an enthusiastic response to our gentle prodding. Still…………………there will be some who will listen, and those people will, hopefully, share their knowledge with people who failed to prepare.
I have convinced some people to create what I can “bug out” bags. This is an assortment of various items that can be carried in a pack. I’m talking about critical items. Most of the items are cheap and easily obtainable. This is important since one has to be mentally prepared for the possibility of being separated from the equipment. One might have his items either stolen or confiscated by governmental authorities. So it’s smart to make re-equipping yourself as easy as possible.
There are times when official decrees designed to help the majority work to the determent of the well prepared individual.
Although I believe that a strong communal response to disasters is best, sometimes one has to go it alone. No two situations are the same, of course.
Royce
> Subject: [hexayurt] Re: Heating a hexayurt
> From: percy...@gmail.com
> To: hexa...@googlegroups.com
> Date: Fri, 15 May 2009 15:46:48 -0400
>
>