Hexayurt, made out of wood?
Pichard Kempo Karate
this year I had an hexayurt on the playa and now I want to build one
made of 2X4, plywood, with real weather protection such as tyvex,
shingles, etc...
Overall it is not that complicated, build 8 framed walls that are 8ft
long by 6ft width, 2X4 beams spaced 16 inches.
Same thing with the roof, pre fabricate and put the shingles on it
then assemble it on the spot.
Now here are the questions :D
1- How do you square off the walls? Do you slant the 2X4 inward in
order to have a tight fit?
2- How do you put the roof on the top of the walls??? It's has to
weight a LOT more than insulation panels!
3- Will the roof be strong enough for me to climb on the top of it in
order to put the tar paper and shingles?
I am sure that I will have more questions later, right now I will be
looking for google sketchup plans to start with :D
Oh and the hexayurt will be a permanent structure on my 40acres,
sitting on a deck and at 3800ft of elevation so I also have to think
of the snow weight! Metal roof anyone?
Thanks!! -- Fabien
Al Razi Masri
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Alejandro
panels that were not using the "Camp Danger" hinge technique. It seems
at least in theory, that they could be very useful for plywood, though
I'm just guessing to be honest.
More importantly, there are several hexayurt links specifically about
plywood, here are a few:
http://hexayurt.com/#ewbplywood
http://www.appropedia.org/Hexayurt_Plywood
http://math2033.uark.edu/wiki/index.php/Hexayurt
http://files.howtolivewiki.com/hexayurt_in_haiti_v1.1.pdf
I built an H13 at BM this year, I suspect it would be a very nice
design in plywood.
Good luck, and please post pictures and/or video of your build!
-Alejandro
On Sep 26, 4:09 pm, Pichard Kempo Karate <fabien_pich...@hotmail.com>
wrote:
LaRahna
Al Razi Masri
LaRahna
Live life fully today!
LaRahna
Al Razi Masri
Pichard Kempo Karate
--
-- Fabien (sent from my phone)
fabien_...@hotmail.com
http://www.kempowa.com/PugetSound
425-985-8613
Pichard Kempo Karate
--
Pichard Kempo Karate
this one http://files.howtolivewiki.com/hexayurt_in_haiti_v1.1.pdf is
basically what I want to do, with 8X6ft panels and a real structure
because on my mountain we have a LOT of wind in the summer.
Thanks for all the links, I did not think of the insect proofing the
wood, and I will be on a ridge of a forest.
-- fabien
LaRahna
Live life fully today!
LaRahna
Phil Dirt
If you plan to rip 4x8 sheets of plywood or OSB into 2x8' sheets to
make the side walls 6' high, you'll want to buy some Z flashing to fit
between the 4' and 2' lengths of sheeting. This is to prevent water
from draining into the yurt. You can supplement this with a bead of
silicone caulking when you assemble the panels. If you don't like the
look of the galvanized sheet metal you can cover it with a strip of
1x3" trim. Would also be a good idea to apply weather stripping to the
bottoms of the side walls to keep out drafts and add a galvanized
flashing along the base of the outside walls to channel water away
from the structure.
I think you also mean 2x4" studs spaced 16" on center, not beams. If
you say 2x4 beams at the lumber yard they will think you're funny.
And yes, 16" OC is good structural spacing and will allow for standard-
width insulation. You should also plan to sheet rock and tape the
interior to avoid inhaling the fiberglass insulation.
1) By squaring off the walls I assume you mean getting the 60º angles
to fit properly. This can be done on a table saw or with a Skilsaw.
Just set your angle on each end stud to 30º and when you fit the walls
together they will meet at 60º. The studs used for the top and bottom
plates on each wall and all peripheral edges of the roof triangles
should also be mitered at 30º. If this sounds like too much trouble,
better to give up now than to waste a lot of time and money building a
structure that could fail catastrophically. Learning how to miter 30º
angle cuts is not difficult if you have the right tools and can find
someone to show you how to do it.
2) I'd prefab the mitered studs on the roof triangles, then build a
temporary center post from a piece of 2x2 and a hexagonal cut piece of
plywood scrap with a center hole drilled just large enough to fit over
the 2x2 post. Slide that hexagon support up to where you want it and
set it in place with a self-tapping screw. You can always raise or
lower the height as needed, and add more screws as you add more
triangular roof sections. Once all the roof sections are in place they
should be able to hold their own weight just by the pressure of the
mitered angles transferring the weight down through the walls and to
the ground. This is part of the reason why the mitered edges are so
important. Screw the mitered edges of the roof sections together and
you can remove the center post.
3) I don't see why not if you cut your miters properly. If it can't
hold your weight you did a lousy job on the miters. More motivation to
cut your miters correctly. When properly built, the hexayurt will
transfer all loads down through the walls to the ground, so the
structure is self-supporting in a manner similar to a geodesic dome or
pyramid.
I don't see a problem with a metal roof, but again, if your miters are
cut properly there's really no need for a metal roof.
Phil Dirt
Alejandro Moreno
Al Razi Masri
On 27 September 2011 01:43, Pichard Kempo Karate
Pichard Kempo Karate
I plan on using a metal roof because the the snow but I wanted to make
sure that it would be collapsing under my 230lbs.
For the leaks and seals, yep silicone at the bottom, metal flashing,
etc... and I plan to have conduits for the electrical cables (12v) for
my LED battery & solar power lights.
-- Fabien