Building a Heron

[Paul Foster]

Is there an information online about amateur building of Herons? Are
boats available in kit form in Australia?

[Better Than Ballet - 9239]

Paul,

 I am investigating this right now as I am planning to build next winter.

I have found a great UK kit but the delivery cost is very high!

This is the supplier
http://jbboatservices.thewebhut.co.uk/wooden_boats_kit_boats/heron-dinghy.php

This is the build.
http://www.iwantaseaview.com/Heron/

Regards

Alex

[Anthony Johnston]

Someone correct me if I’m wrong but I’m fairly sure it won’t measure in Australia.

 

Your best bet would be to purchase both the plans and the handbook.

 

http://www.heronsailing.com.au/information.htm

--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
Groups "Heron Sailors".
Please feel free to reply to this message to keep discussions going.

[Better Than Ballet - 9239]

I am just after the hull & deck.

And as posted - I am checking the dimensions now.


-Alex

[Rhys Llewellyn]

Herons in Aust. and the UK have spent over 50 years developing with little consultation with regards to changes made over the years. I would pay attention to items such as transom angles, center board case position, mast step position, spring measurements and therefore station measurements, frame 2 position, thwart sizes and positions, tank sizes and positions, width measurements, bow shape, etc. etc.

[Calum Polwart (UK Webmaster)]

On Saturday, December 22, 2012 10:20:01 AM UTC, Rhys Llewellyn wrote:

Herons in Aust. and the UK have spent over 50 years developing with little consultation with regards to changes made over the years. I would pay attention to items such as transom angles, center board case position, mast step position, spring measurements and therefore station measurements, frame 2 position, thwart sizes and positions, tank sizes and positions, width measurements, bow shape, etc. etc.

AFAIK the hull shape should match the original Jack Holt plans.  Transom angle should be per the Holt Plans.  Centre Board and Mast Step can be moved on the kit AFAIK, although the case may not be to the Holt Plan?.  Springs - again I don't think the UK has moved them from Jack Holt's design so unless the  Auzzies have they should be fine, but worth checking if they are correct.

Thwarts and Tanks are not per Holt's design so may not measure to the Aussie spec.

However, if the Australian Plans (??or the UK originals) were available in DXF format your cheapest route would be the pass the file to a CNC cutter who can cut them for you. 

Are you wanting to stitch and glue?

[Stephen Watts]

Having been one of the more recent builders of a jig-built Heron a couple of years ago, I can offer the following, based on my experience using the NSW jig built by the irrepressible Don Jamieson:
You will end up with a boat that closely approximates the shape of a Mark 2 glass boat. They are light and fast.
The easiest and quickest part is cutting out the frames using the full-size templates, so I wouldn't go to the bother and expense of having them CNC cut. The NSW jig comes with full-size temples for all framework.
The most economical way is to purchase the required gaboon ply and western red cedar in 150x50 x3600 and cut it up yourself. Buy a cheap mini bench-type rip saw from Bunnings for $100 to rip down the cedar for all the stringers, gunwales, hog, keel etc. Almost none of it is seen when the boat is complete so the quality of the finish of these parts is unimportant.
The hull itself, ie. the part of the project before turning it the right way up,  is fast and easy to build. The external surfaces are not seen as you should either glass it yourself or give it to a boat builder. This means you can simply drive screws into parts to hold them while the glue sets when clamps are difficult to access. (BTW, go and buy a cheap pack of assorted clamps at Bunnings). All fastenings are removed when glue is set. A sheathed boat adds a few kilos, but will still be underweight if you're careful. The hull will be stiffer and equivalent to a glass boat in finish (well, mine is, as is Warren's -see below).
The slowest part is fitting the seats, tanks and deck. This is all hand fitting. There is no possible way that any boat kit can be made to avoid neat hand-fitting tank sides to the floor and hull sides (at least to my eye, unless a whole lot of quad covers are used to hide the gaps). However, if I was to do it again, I would (somehow) make the side buoyancy tanks before fitting the bottom and sides of the hull, ie. while hull still upside down.
Do not bother with a half-height front buoyancy tank. Full height is much simpler and gives more buoyancy (and less water in boat) following a capsize.
Warren Monaghan had the right idea when he built his (the most recent off the NSW jig I believe) - he didn't bother staining the ply at all and had Maxy Boats glass the hull and spray the deck and interior with clear 2-pack.
Other necessary tools - stapler, to hold down deck parts when glue is setting; a good, and I mean good jigsaw with adjustable sole angle. Buy some nice fine-tooth blades - not cheap ones; you'll also need a Stanley plane and cordless screwdriver/drill.
I used Epiglass resin glue - 4L resin/ 1L hardener. With this quantity I was also able to dynel sheath the hull. It is clear resin that you turn into glue by mixing with microballoons. This way you can control the consistency. Warren used an epoxy glue (in pots) which is possibly easier to use. Norglass?
A box of 100 latex surgical gloves will stop you getting glue all over your hands.

It will take some time to complete. I took my time over 18 months. Warren did his in just under 12months if memory serves me. That's a few hours for a few evenings each week and a few hours to a half-day every other weekend.
Anyone who is willing to take on the project will have any number of experienced builders able to offer advice on any step of the process.
The result? Priceless.

Steve

--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
Groups "Heron Sailors".
Please feel free to reply to this message to keep discussions going.

--
Stephen Watts 0403 815 889

[green heron]

Hi

Does anyone have the nsw stitch and glue jig and how long can it be used for before it needs to be returned.

Does it cost any money to hire.

Regards

Peter Connor

[Paul Armstrong - Flat Chat 10250]

Good advice from Steve.  The result was (and still is) the prettiest Heron going around...and she goes OK too.  I know I bought her! 
Paul A (Flat Chat 10250)