Based in Australia and have just received our new Telstra Smart Modem but I am having no luck trying to connect my AC1750 WI FI Mesh extender. Extender worked perfectly with the previous modem and was very easy to set up. Have put the extender beside the modem and trying to use the Nighthawk App to connect them but cannot get them to talk to each other
For best results, factory reset the extender (push and hold reset for 7-15 seconds while powered on), then connect a pc/laptop to the ethernet port and disable the pc/laptops wifi so it only uses the ethernet connection, then try setup using the assistant.
I booked in installation with BT yesterday and was sent the smart hub 2. Unfortunately when I came to set everything up I realised that the instructions were talking about plugging the Ethernet cable into a modem. I transferred over from Sky and I was able to just plug it into the phone line filter. When I was with BT before three or four years ago that was the case too.
I have a few of these minis ive used to turn off and on lights with Alexa (app and through my Alexa devices)
I am leaving the home for a week and was looking for a way to restart my Modem and router if i need to. BUT since they are connected to the home WiFi, the second i turn on off, its disconnected and can no longer function. IS there a way to send a plug a single command to get ot to cycle off then back on?
Maybe i just need different hardware?
Thank for the insight.
Hello@Brando, you could set up Schedule rules for kasa plug, as schedule settings are saved on the plug itself and could function without internet.
But kindly note that when smart plug is unplugged / physically lost, power plug will stop timing and schedule does not work in that situation.
My Telstra service worked well over wifi using the default setup (using the Smart Modem as the modem and router). However instead, I want to use it in bridge mode to take advantage of my Asus router's features.
After the above, the internet connection works well using LAN ports, and the wifi mostly works on iPhone, but with some issues. The primary issue is that Whatsapp cannot connect (says "Connecting..." with never-ending progress pinwheel) which means messages aren't received until I'm off the wifi network. Similarly, connections to Lifx and Apollo apps are patchy, however these are less important.
Well, the wireless isn't the best start. Last time I checked, BCM4360 wasn't supported. I saw some support for devices with BCM4366 on the table of hardware, but not sure how good is the drivers. But it appears that in best case scenario you would have only 1 radio working.
Efforts other than that are likely going to brick it or waste time... the usb/ram-flash specs/crappy UI/ubiquity make the device possibly worthy of checking out... in a non-wireless/dsl/pots capacity only if need be...
It is running OpenWrt under the hood, but heavily customised.
If you've never connected it to the Telstra network, you may still be running a sufficiently old enough firmware that a vulnerability exists to gain root access. From there, the most useful thing you can do is retrieve your SIP settings so you can setup your own SIP device (as Telstra does not provide these details willingly or on request).
You can find this vulnerability and a helper app on whirlpool and a few other Aussie blogs.
I now own both versions due to connection issues, and don't care if they die. I'm not as skilled as most, but I'm able to follow instructions and read docs.
Basically saying I'm willing to root these and examine the firmware, and attempt proper OpenWRT implementation for them.
There's already a target for the main SoC series, and looking at the actual specs of this thing and the fact It's been shipped out to Telstra customers since 2016 for free and in most cases never returned when contracts are up, or being replaced with more capable combo units and sold on eBay... It's worth all the trouble.
And thermally, it seems to be actually designed really well. The Technicolor model atleast.
Any luck with getting this working on a device? Is it now possibe to use openwrt on this modem. I got 2 of these which telstra just dumped on me wnen they made some admin error. shame to throw it in the scrap heap
So, today I upgraded my internet service and was given the xb7 to replace my 5 year old comcast router/modem. I have spent the last 5 hours trying to connect my smart devices and they just wont connect! The 2.4ghz just seems unresponsive or slow. Some of the devices I am trying to connect are generic wifi/alexa connectors but I have a Dyson fan and the Nanoleaf Aurora panels that wont connect niether! I never had any issues with any of these before and its driving me insane! Is my router defective?
Many IoT devices are designed to work only with the 2.4 GHz band when you set them up the first time. Some, like the Amazon Echo, will work with both 2.4 and 5 GHz bands so they're easier to configure.
Yeah I seperated my two wifi bands yesterday and I was trying to connect them straight to my 2.4 ghz which now has a different name but it's still not working. I managed to connect a couple LED lights but when I went back to use their apps they had already lost connection.
I have a possible answer (I am not an expert!) having searched a number of forums for this issue. The XB7 does not operate at 2.4Ghz on the 802.11b protocol. Some older devices (like the Fitbit Aria Scale, my current nemesis) only connect to 802.11b and will not connect to newer protocols. Check the specs on your devices and make sure they are compatable with the 802.11g/n/ax at 2.4Ghz. If not you may be SOL!
There are lots of post on how to connect your Arlo cam directly to a Wifi router using port forwarding but they always seem to miss some details and it took me days to figure this out so I decided to write a detailed post incl. screenshots (see image attached to this post at the bottom, kind of hidden but there ... and apologies for the single meshed up screenshot but Arlo does not allow upload of multiple images).
Step 2: Go to the ADVANCED section, top right, then then the DEVICES section ... you will get a list of devices connected to your network, you need to find your Arlo cam here and note down its IP and MAC address ... if you can't find it, sorry, there is no easier way than to switch the camera on and off and keep checking this list to see what changes (stupid, I know)
Step 3: Go to the LOCAL NETWORK section and set up a static lease for your Arlo cam by assigning the Arlo MAC address a static IP address (use whatever you noted down in the previous step, no need to change details) ... means your Arlo cam will keep the same IP address ... otherwise this can change and then all the settings break
Step 4: Go to the FIREWALL section and for the TCP/UDP protocol open ports 443 and 80 for your Arlo cam ... by setting the destination IP for these rules to the IP of your Arlo cam ... you might need separate rules for separate ports ... if that does not make any sense to you compare the settings and values in the various screenshots, should start to become clear ... I found this on wasn't event provided by Arlo
Step 6: Restart your modem in the MODEM section, top left AND delete and re-sync your Arlo cam, how to here -do-I-factory-reset-my-Arlo-wire-free-camera or just follow the prompts in your mobile app - IMPORTANT, do not leave this out
That should do it, good luck
Ports 80 and 443 don't need to be forwarded to the cameras, as the connections are always established from the camera to the Arlo cloud. And in general, you shouldn't forward ports unnecessarily - if you do, you can open up your home network to attacks.
Note there are some enterprise firewalls that block outbound (camera->cloud) traffic by default, and with those firewalls you do need to open up 80 and 443 to the Arlo devices. But you don't need to forward inbound traffic.
@cbartens There are post about problems setting up Port Foward for Local storage to view away from local network but not setting up the cameras itself and standard operating of cams. I never saw one about setting up a camera. Are you sure you are not mixing up the two?
Now technically the Wifi router only blocks inbound requests so technically you are right the Arlo Cam should be able to communicate outbound and send video to the Arlo cloud ... but what if the issue is before that? I mean I could not properly register my cam on the app no matter how often I reset it ... so maybe the port forwarding is only required to get over that initial hurdle and once that is done it can be turned off!? Surely during registration there is some ping from Arlo.com inbound to the cam ... if that gets blocked what then? I will test that when I have some time
There are plenty of folks who have had issues on-boarding their cameras, though generally port forwarding has not the solution. I haven't had time to review all your links, but it appears that forwarding didn't help on the second one (included in the quote above).
Now technically the Wifi router only blocks inbound requests so technically you are right the Arlo Cam should be able to communicate outbound and send video to the Arlo cloud ... but what if the issue is before that?
This appears to be an issue with the discovery protocol they are using not working reliably on the wifi network - hard to say for sure, since nothing here is documented. Whatever it is, it needs some development attention.
The forwarding applies to unsolicited inbound traffic - your router knows the incoming IP from the packet header, but not the domain. It can try to determine the domain from the IP, but the result isn't that reliable, especially with cloud-hosted servers. Those reverse lookups can easily end up giving you a Cloudflare or AWS domain, even if the servers are run by Arlo.
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