Suzuki Sj410 Wiring Diagram

[Jeff]

Newmember to Thumpertalk & hoping this is the right place to ask for help/info. After many years away from dirt bikes, my kids are old enough so time to get back into riding in the dirt. To that end, just picked up a cheap 1988 DR125. Of course, being cheap & old, it's in poor condition. Looking for suggestions here as to what to trouble shoot first to get this bike back running/riding.

It doesn't look like the worst bike I've ever seen so it must have had some care during it's lifetime. I believe it originally had headlight, tail light, & speedometer/odometer but all that's been stripped away at some point. The kickstart lever is gone & someone hacked up the shaft with some globs of weld. On the other side, the gear shift is worn badly. Slips & has likely ruined the splines.

After hauling it home this weekend, I started with the basics... drained old oil (which looked decent) & refilled with new. Cleaned out the airbox since as expected, it was full of mouse nest & the filter was half-chewed. Put a little splash of gas in the tank & it leaks from the petcock & the carb overflow. Tried a few attempts at a pop-start to see if there were any sign of life - nothing, appears to be no spark. When I get home next weekend (I work out of state during week) I'll pull the carb & start the cleaning/overhaul process.

My questions are mainly on the wiring. Since someone before me butchered everything, what tests can I perform with my multi-meter? What wires go where? Appears all that's left is the leads from the magneto. CDI is there & the main harness that runs to the front & up to the coil is hacked to spagetti. What's the minimum I need to get sorted & connected to see if I can get spark.

Agree with SOANZ that a shop manual is a good start. I searched online for info & downloaded "Service Manual for Suzuki DR-Z125/L". It seems to have the basics as this bike appears to have been around a long time with few changes. The manual may not be useful as it appears to specifically note the '04, '05, '06, and '08 models which is much newer than my old 1988.

This past weekend I ordered what may be the last kick start lever (part 26300-42A00) on the planet. Ground off the globs of weld that previous owner added to retain what was left of the original lever & removed it. Splines on the shaft looked OK, waiting on the new kick start lever to arrive this week.

Pulled the Mikuni carb off, cleaned it well. Still leaks a bit from the overflow tube after I reinstalled it so I assume it needs a replacement needle valve & seat. Everything else was quite clean. Messed with the throttle assembly & it moves freely now as it should

Also looked over what was left of the wires & connected everything as looked appropriate. Pulled spark plug & it looked pretty dark like it was last running very rich. Going to pick up a new NGK plug & can of starting fluid in preparation to see if it's got any signs of life.

Definitely a manual. But if you take a picture of the stator wires out and the CDI wires, I can hopefully tell you where they go. I just did my DR200. However, I'm color blind. So maybe not. The tricky part was the kill switch.

The Blue/yellow and Green/white are grouped together & end in a plastic factory connector. That connector plugs into another connector with Blue/yellow and Green/white wires that goes into the CDI. The 2 red wires (as as best I can tell they are red) are grouped together & also end in a factory connector. They currently attach to nothing. The last two, Black and Orange also end in a factory connection. That plug plugs into a plug that changes the black to a Black/white and the Orange comes out as Yellow/red. The Black/white splits into 4 - 3 leads are cut off & go to nothing, 1 lead connects to the 1 negative side (small spade connector, appears factory) of the ignition coil. The Yellow/red wire is about 30" long & connects to nothing.

The wire one here that appears correct is the White/blue. It goes directly to the positive side (larger spade terminal) on the ignition coil. The other 2 that are probably correct are the Blue/yellow and Green/white as they connect to the same color wires from the stator thru a factory connection. The other 4 - Black/white, Black/yellow, Brown, & Orange are all cut off & connect to nothing.

That's about it... There is an engine cut-off switch on the bar that has Black/white and Black/yellow wires but they aren't connected to anything. As I said in previous posts, previous owners have removed everything else this bike might have ever had originally that needed wiring.

If anyone out there can make heads or tail of this & tell me what to connect where, it would be really helpful. Literally just trying to make a complete ignition circuit & see if this thing produces spark.

I've also been reading tons here on the DR & DRZ forums on this site as well as anything I can find on the internet. Am I correct in understanding that the Kawasaki KLX used what is in essence the exact same engine?

Got home from this week's work & found we'd received the factory service manual I'd ordered off EBay in the mail. Sat down & studied the wiring diagram. Appears the 2 leads coming from the stator/magneto in my photo above with an 'X' that didn't connect to anything were originally 'Brown' and 'Pink' many years ago & should be connected to the CDI leads that are Brown & Pink.

Not to be defeated, I checked what else wasn't connected as shown per the diagram in the manual. The Black/white from CDI wasn't connected to anything but appeared to be shown as tied into the other Black/white wires that went to coil negative. Made that connection & tried again... Nice solid spark!!!

Threaded the plug into the cylinder head, sprayed 1 shot of starting fluid on air filter & it started up in 1 kick!!! Success! Not bad for a $150 Craigslist bike that had run in who knows how long. Set the tank back in place, connected the fuel line to the carb, put a little fresh fuel in the tank, choke lever on & 2 kicks later it was running. Warmed it up & fiddled a bit with idle screw on carb & after about 2 minutes, it was just sitting there, idling nicely with the choke off.

Now that it runs, I know its safe to spend a few dollars on stuff like new shift lever, air filter foam element, engine kill switch. I spent a little time this afternoon making nice soldered & shrink tubed permanent connections with NGK anti-corrosion grease & zip tied everything in place. I'll check the valves with the engine cold next weekend.This week I'll post a pic of the wiring diagram to help any other fellow forum readers who might be trying to work on an '85-88 DR125 or SP125.

Attached the wiring diagram from the service manual. Hopefully other readers can click on it & see if anyone else needs it for reference on another project. It should cover Suzuki DR125 and SP125 from 1985-1988.

The factory service manual was a good start. Sorted out the mess of wiring & got it started. Replaced the following: Spark plug, foam air cleaner element, front brake pads, front brake lever, new rear tire, oil filter & quart of fresh 10W-40, new kick-start lever, gear shift lever, new drive chain, throttle tube, new grips, engine kill switch, front number plate.

Spent some time just removing carb & giving it a very thorough cleaning & reassembly. Adjusted the valves (and bought a new timing chain that isn't installed yet). Adjusted the brakes. Other than a good deal of cleaning, scrubbing, and repainting a few parts, it was mostly just basic maintenance. Now it starts in 1-2 kicks & runs very well for a 31 year old dirt bike. All total I my investment is about $500 for the initial purchase plus all the replacement parts. I expect it will provide many more hours of fun riding.

Just adding a photo of how the finished product looks. Put new rear tire on it this past weekend. May also add some new decals/stickers to the tank & put a number plate on the front as it looks bare without the original headlight. Probably also install a new needle & seat soon as it occasionally has a small puddle of fuel that leaks out the overflow tube if kids don't turn the petcock off when parking it overnight.

Hi This is great news I have been searching on the forum but my Suzuki Dr125 is a 1982 not 1988 I have the suzuki workshop manual and agree its great but mine has an Ign switch, horn, and indicators it bugs me why people have to butcher wires in the headlight Im still trying to get a wiring diagram for a 1982 Suzuki Dr125s made for the UK ride safe Andy

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