pakfran germayna dayshawn
Kansas Eiffel
You can follow this script verbatim, or pick and choose what to talk about and how. The accompanying slide show goes along with the script. Everytime you see the [Show slide #] tag, you can go to the next slide. [Progress slide] tags let you know when to advance the animation/transition of the current slide.
4. Voltage = The pump creates pressure in the system. In a house, your water pressure is usually between 50 and 80 psi. This is like the difference in electrical potential between the negative and positive side of the battery. This potential difference is called voltage.
This is perhaps the most important concept for this workshop and when working with Arduinos. If the circuit is not working, the circuit is probably incomplete somewhere. So that is the first thing to always check. Make sure everything is plugged in where it is supposed to be plugged in.
The first, as seen on lines 3, 4, and 5 is that of creating a variable. A variable, in programming, is like a box that we put information in. There are four parts to making a variable in the Arduino language.
So, if the current value of the photoresistor is less than the initial value minus the threshold, then line 20 is executed. The digitalWrite function, or method, is used to send current to pin 12 which is connected to the LED.
The meaning of HIGH (in reference to a pin) is somewhat different depending on whether a pin is set to an INPUT or OUTPUT. When a pin is configured as an INPUT with pinMode(), and read with digitalRead(), the Arduino (ATmega) will report HIGH if:
A pin may also be configured as an INPUT with pinMode(), and subsequently made HIGH with digitalWrite(). This will enable the internal 20K pullup resistors, which will pull up the input pin to a HIGH reading unless it is pulled LOW by external circuitry. This can be done alternatively by passing INPUT_PULLUP as argument to the pinMode() function, as explained in more detail in the section "Defining Digital Pins modes: INPUT, INPUT_PULLUP, and OUTPUT" further below.
The meaning of LOW also has a different meaning depending on whether a pin is set to INPUT or OUTPUT. When a pin is configured as an INPUT with pinMode(), and read with digitalRead(), the Arduino (ATmega) will report LOW if:
Arduino microcontrollers are simple computers used to build circuits with sensors that interface with a variety of components and output devices. Artists, environmental researchers collecting data like temperature and humidity, and robotics engineers all utilize Arduino.
In this workshop, participants will learn the parts of the Arduino microcontroller and utilize resistors, switches, a breadboard and light emitting diodes LEDs to build a circuit. Attendees will become familiar following schematic diagrams and write the program for the Arduino software (IDE) to make their project work.
No prior knowledge of Arduino is required. All hardware and supplies provided. This 90-minute workshop will be taught by the Emerging Technologies Librarian, Andrew Johnson and include an orientation to McBay Science Library Makerspace technology and instruction offerings, like resin 3D printing and textiles equipment.
Main Library
Map & Govt Information Library
McBay Science Library
Miller Learning Center
Special Collections Libraries
Art Library
Curriculum Materials Library
Music Library
Owens Library
Learn about electronics that can be applied to your artwork, robotics projects or class work. These workshops will follow a skill-building progression, but people are welcome to attend any or all of the individual workshops.
Microcontrollers are everywhere and are often the unseen heroes of our modern world. Microcontrollers can be programmed to fulfill various simple tasks, from coffee makers to elevators and even the television remote control. The Arduino platform makes working with microcontrollers easy, fun and offers a way to get started in electronics. Join us for a workshop to explore various beginner Arduino projects using components from the Arduino education kits available in the makerspace.
If you are interested in gaining access to a test machine not listed (Torsion/Vibration/Hardness Testers) or if you'd like support planning a test, book a zoom consult with ITLP Engineer Rachel Sharpe
* This is an "Access" workshop, intended to unlock your path forward by training you in the proper handling and care of the equipment. You must complete an instructor-led workshop at the ITL Laboratory in order to gain access. Once completed, the instructor will register you in our system as an authorized user of the equipment, at which point you will be able to use it freely.
In this project, we'll be building the Triptych, a portable Arduino workshop. It's a self-contained, portable (Trip, get it?) solder station, Arduino workstation (through the Arduino IDE running on the Raspberry Pi), and configurable parts storage. As the name suggests, it's made in three parts, with the left and right sides folding open to reveal the workstation inside. Check out this short video.
Once again, I used the RedSail 80watt lasercutter from my local hackspace, VHS to cut the parts. If you want to build one quickly, I would recommend buying exactly the same parts that I've used, as the RPi image is built for this setup. Of course, if you want to experiment, go for it!
Footnote: Why you should join a hackspace
It used to frustrate me to no end when I would see an awesome Instructable that required some specialized tool like a laser cutter, water jet cutter, 3D printer etc. Having neither the space nor the money for these fancy tools, I would try to to replicate patterns on a scroll saw, or by some other means. Given my lack of actually woodworking skill, that quickly became an exercise in frustration. That's when I started looking around for folks that might actually have these tools and be willing to share and teach. I was turned on to my local hackspace and never looked back. If you're the type of person that enjoys Instructables, I promise you'll find great resources in tools and brains at your local hackspace. If there's no hackspace near you, start one! Trust me, the cool tools will follow.
For the outer box, monitor mount, drawer, and internal storage, I cut the parts using an 80 watt laser cutter. If you have a bit of experience with woodworking, you can probably modify this design and replicate it by hand.
This part is pretty straight forward. We need to load the disk image on to the SD card. This will act as the operating system for the RPi. You can not just copy a file to an SD card and use it in an RPi. Rather, you must load an .iso image to the 8gb SD card using software called Win32DiskImager.
It is based on Raspbian Wheezy, and uses the standard username: pi Password: raspberry. It is configured to use the 10.1" screen from Adafruit. It has the Arduino IDE installed and ready to go. Also the bluetooth tools (for the keyboard) are installed and ready to be configured to connect to your specific keyboard. No installation was required to get the USB wifi dongle or the mouse running.
Case design
The case is made of a back box (which will hold the monitor, RPi, USB hub and some other electronics), and two front doors connected with piano hinges. There is a simple drawer (no slides) in the bottom of the back box that will hold the keyboard, mouse, and some of the larger tools that are too large to store in the doors. Each door is held on with piano hinges that allow them to swing all the way open. Stacking boxes will fit inside the doors, and will hold tools and various components. The boxes are held in place with elastic chord that runs in the slots from the top to the bottom.
I've designed several different storage boxes for you to pick from ,depending on what you want to store. Since each door is 400mm tall, all boxes are (slightly less then) multiples of 50mm. For example, there's a 50mm simple box for small components, a 100mm box to store my resistors in the glitter tubes. A 150mm box and a 200mm box for taller tools. Use each of these components in any configuration you like, as long as they add up to 400mm. Elastics hold the boxes in place.
The case itself is made from 1/4" ply. The drawer in the bottom made from 1/8" ply. The storage boxes can be made from either 3mm acrylic or 1/8" ply. I used acrylic in this Instructable so I can easily see into each box without having to remove it. The lids are held on with elastics.
The Triptich is carried by a harness that quickly attaches on the underside and around the doors and it's carried messenger bag style. I thought this would be a nice detail while removing any single points of failure that you might get from a single handle.
Inkscape
Now that we've confirmed the electronics portions is working, let's start on the case. The case was designed in Inkscape (free!!). I found an extension for it that creates box layouts that can be cut on the laser cutter. The extension is called Tabbed Box Maker, and it's available on a rather non-descript website called Maker (not to be confused with Make).
Installing Tabbed Box Maker
So now we have the outline of our boxes. One important fact is that the Tabbed Box Maker makes... well, boxes. The process here is to create three boxes (back, left door, and right door). Since we don't want the boxes to be fully enclosed (how would you get in!???!!), you can delete the extra side in Inkscape.
Also we want flat edges (and NOT tabs) where the back box meets the doors, and where the doors meet each other, you'll have to remove the extra tabs in Inkscape. In this case, remove them to the bottom of the tab. This is because we specified that our box dimensions were inside in Tabbed Box Maker.
c01484d022