Pyronix Alarm Installation Manual

[Johanne]

Ihave a Pyronix V2 Tel Speech Dialler (the PSTN version, NOT the GSM one). The application is to install it at remote (semi-rural) storage site to compliment the existing remote access HD CCTV system I've already put in (and which works well).

The V2 Tel is going to be used entirely in it's stand-alone mode - i.e. it is not (at this stage) going to be connected to a panel or use any of it's 6 inputs. They may be brought into use later, but initially it's main function is to provide dial-in remote control to switch on/off some devices (via it's 4 remotely controlled outputs) and "speak to site" (eventually via an external amplified speaker as it has external speaker connections). Both functions it provides. I've done the initial programming and testing (on workbench prior to installation), and both work nicely dialling in via PSTN and the Remote Access Menu.

On the workbench (whether plugged into a PSTN line or not) connected to a 12V DC power supply, after about 20-45 mins the "power on LED" (the far left indicator at the top - the other 4 indicate the output states - see attached pic), normally on steady, starts to flash at about 1Hz (0.5s off, 0.5s on). According to the dealer this is because it can't see a panel - except all the inputs are disabled as it is being used in "stand alone" mode, not connected to a panel. I've tried configuring the inputs as OPEN, and using "Auto Learn" function to that it learns the current input status as the default "non-alarm/normal" condition. No difference.

That's the thing - the installation/programming manual makes no mention of the power-LED at all, on/off/flashing or anything else. The distributor says one thing, Pyronix suggest something completely different (a power issue or possibly faulty unit) but weren't being very forthcoming beyond that. Neither mentioned anything about a "stand-by mode" and there is no suggestion of it even existing in the installation/programming manual

I just thought I'd ask the pro's for their opinions, before seeing if I can prise anything more useful out of Pyronix. I have to say that, as a first experience of Pyronix, I don't like them purely because the installation manual is pretty noddy (C&K Securit 800L - put a couple of those in a previous place I lived years ago - is somewhat clearer and that is ancient) and, as a company, not very helpful (not as bad as some, not mentioning Honeywell LOL).

Having said that, unless/until I put a panel in at this remote storage site, which actually belongs to a very close friend - the only person I install anything for other than myself - I've no plans for any installations. Even the two venerable Securit 800Ls are still giving very good service, as the same close friend lives in the house I put them in (one for the house, one for two outbuildings). Beyond a little TLC, periodic new batteries in both the panels and the Flashguard Xtra siren/strobe units, they still work fine.

A rose bush "climber", which my friend had allowed to grow up to the Flashguard on the house, had allowed ants to climb up to the unit. On that miserable wet night - it was raining - the wet ants got inside the unit and formed a bridge (as ants do) intermittently shorting out the 12V feed from the panel, causing the siren to sound using the internal battery (exactly as detailed in the manual). All without causing any trigger event on the panel itself.

At the moment it is still on the workbench while I become familiar with it and it's "foibles" - of which this could be one. I will give it another try tonight on one of my variable bench PSUs turned up 13/14V, see if that makes a difference. The reasoning behind that is, while reading the Wickes Alarm post from someone else, I had a quick look at the install manual for those C&K Securit 800L panels, particularly the PSU output voltage. That is spec'd to give 13.7V DC, so it is still conceivable that I'm making a false assumption that 12V should be fine.

I suppose that leads on to a follow up question, which really does call on your collective pro experience. What typically is the AUX output voltage of most panels? My assumption of 12V could well be wrong, and when powered from a typical panel may well get fed with somewhat more than 12V. If that is the case, Pyronix's explanation of "low input voltage" could very well be correct - which I'll hopefully verify one or t'other tonight.

The initial requirement my friend had was, if he spotted someone dodgy on the CCTV (live or via the alert emails), connect to the site and say "Oi you! Yes you in the red hoody and naff trainers!"- but without spending 400 on something like a Axis C3003-E network horn speaker. Plus he would prefer to dial-in rather than do it over the internet (limited bandwidth to the site and zero chance of fibre for

Hello, just reviving this thread. I notice that the Pyronix Euro 46 alarms do support an RS232 serial interface, which appears to be reasonably documented, and besides, there are quite a lot of technical manuals available from Pyronix on the circuit board pin outs. So I wonder if anyone has had any success in interfacing with Pyronix please? Such as using a Raspberry Pi to access RS232? Or connecting to the board electrically? I think the minimum functionality would be merely to detect alarms being triggered, and then able to arm/disarm.

It is the Pyronix Euro 46 alarm that I have, the HomeControl app functionality is what I would effectively love to be able to bring into Home Assistant, not only can you set and unset the alarm but all the sensors around the house feedback to the app even when the alarm is not set.

I just had another hacky idea with Pyronix: they do have battery powered wall panels which light up buttons with zones when respective ones are set. It should be fairly easy to throw in an ESP32 and solder to those LED contacts.

The Konnected panel works pretty well. I can now set and unset my alarm from HA or node red and I can use all of the sensors in from my home alarm in home assistant. I have set up groups that have Sonoff motion sensors and Pyronix PIRs in the same group for example.

Installing a reliable wired burglar alarm system is crucial for securing your property, and the Pyronix Euro wired burglar alarm kit is a top choice due to its advanced features and robust design. This guide will walk you through the burglar alarm installation process of the Pyronix Euro kit, which includes motion detectors, a keypad, and an external sounder.

Before starting the installation, gather the following tools and materials: the Pyronix Euro wired burglar alarm kit (including motion detectors, keypad, external sounder, and control panel), a screwdriver set, a drill with appropriate bits, a wire stripper/cutter, screws and wall plugs, a spirit level, cable clips, and a ladder for mounting the external sounder.

Planning and Preparation

Begin by surveying your property to identify the best locations for the control panel, motion detectors, keypad, and external sounder. Motion detectors should cover high-traffic areas and entry points, while the keypad should be placed near main entry points for easy access. The external sounder should be visible from the street but out of reach. Familiarize yourself with the installation manual provided by Pyronix, and gather all necessary tools and materials.

Testing the System

After installation, test each component to ensure they are working correctly. Use the control panel to activate the system and check that the keypad, motion detectors, and external sounder respond as expected. Make any necessary adjustments to the placement and settings of the devices.

Consider hiring a professional installer if you are unsure about any step in the process. Regularly check the system and replace components as needed. Stay updated with firmware updates and additional features from Pyronix.

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