X-h2 Video Settings

[Helen Drewski]

Im coming from the X-T3, where video settings were straightforward: switch to video mode, set ISO and shutter speed accordingly with the big knobby knobs on top, set video format options in the main and/or Q menu, etc.

Maybe I don't understand how this was designed to be used for video, but I'm having a tough time with the X-H2. I've managed to fumble around and discover how to change all the settings I want, but it seems cumbersome to change them again for different occasions.

General rule of thumb keeping the shutter speed as two times of the fps. Since lowest fps allowed by camera is 25 slowest speed allowed is 1/50. This is called 180 degree shutter angle in videography.

Set your camera to M and iso to 1000 since it is the native iso of the product which gives the highest available dynamic range. set your shutter speed double the fps you shoot 25 fps 1/50 60fps 1/120. To be able to do that with shallow depth of field in the day light you need a variable ND. If you use fix nd you need to change it each time the light changes so not comfortable in the end.

This is exactly what I was going to suggest as well. I use the custom settings exclusively for my video presets. C1 24fps 1/48 C2 60fps 1/60 C3 120p 1/240. C4 & C5 are 24&60 but with ProRes, C6 6.2k open gate. In the settings menu make sure to select that the custom setting is video mode and not photo mode. I reserve C7 for any kind of photo or video setting that happens to be specific to what I'm doing before I head out. Because I know what C1-C6 are and they never change it's just a flip of the dial. I thought after years with the regular Fuji dials going back to pasm would be a nightmare. With the ability to program seven custom settings I'd say this is actually my preferred control format. Whenever I need to use my XT4 for a second camera, I actually find myself fumbling around with the dials and makes me much less efficient.

I also can't get any information to show up on the LCD screen other than the recording mode and time remaining at the top unless I turn on 'large indicators' (EVF is fine; all the 'custom display settings' seem to affect EVF and not LCD).

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TILT: EDIT. Tilt the joystick to move the focus area around the screen, and rotate the command dial to change the size. If AF MODE is set to ALL as recommended, rotating the command dial lets you cycle through all AF Modes.

1, 2, or 5 Min. I prefer the camera to shut off after 2 minutes of inactivity. I can always wake it back up with the shutter button. But turning this OFF is a good way to waste your battery!

Hi John, just wanted to say Thanks - you're a lifesaver! I've been shooting on the same Canon DSLRs for over a decade now, and bought a Fujifilm (X-T30II) just before a vacation to 'lighten the load' with some smaller glass, but no time to get familiar with it. Not only is my muscle memory completely off, but there's so many different configurable buttons and settings that I was completely overwhelmed and got lost in the menus trying to wrangle out the experience I was looking for.

Lossless Compresses should be lossless. The result is mathematically equivalent picture, bit by bit. lossy compressed is what you mean. The problem is that some raw developers cannot read it and just take the embedded jpeg instead.

Thanks for chiming in, Žiga. I agree with you that lossless should be "lossless."I added that little disclaimer when I originally wrote the article after someone with a lot more time than me had done extensive testing and shown that some RAW converters lost some detail. I of course can't find that article now, and it was the only place I had seen it, so maybe it was wrong :) I've updated this. Thanks.

*****Uh, no. Everything now is DCI-P3. sRGB is old and small and destroys lots of colors, especially oranges. AdobeRGB has a bit more blues and greens than DCI-P3. Camera makers need to catch up and start offering a DCI-P3 option since everyone is now moved on from sRGB to DCI-P3 and camera output is hardly ever printed but instead seen on DCI-P3 displays, whether large monitors on a desk or small monitors in a cellphone.

@John Peltier, Like I said, for most picture viewing is done on screens. Only a small percentage of photos are viewed printed. For screen viewing, DCI-P3 is the color space supported by every just about everything nowadays, all Apple products, any cellphone above disposable, just about every current tv, non-gaming computer monitors... Really, today sRGB displays are rare. Camera makers need to catch up and add the option so there is sRGB - most compatible, but actually rare today, AdobeRGB for professional printing, DCI-P3 for viewing on devices and not printing. I really really wish fuji would allow the great film simulations to be saved in DCI-P3 color space. Maybe one day they might even allow HEIC. The difference is not important with skin tones, but it makes a difference in autumn landscapes, car shows.... And thank you for a great website and taking time to respond to my comment.

Please share your sources stating that everything is now in DCI-P3...I don't think that's true.Case in point, Shutterfly, a popular printing company used by many hobbyist photographers, uses sRGB. Their colors will look different if sent in AdobeRGB.sRGB is old and small, but it's the only color space compatible with 100% of devices, apps, browsers, etc. Thus, your average photographer creating JPG photos to share with friends or post on social media should be using the "safe" sRGB color space so their colors aren't destroyed in an automatic conversion to a different color space.And this setting only applies to JPG files saved to the camera anyways. Photographers who want more color control will process the RAW file using the color space of their choice and make those decisions after capture based on the output destination.

I think you are saying you want to switch between custom settings and change that display setting (as opposed to a setting that affects the recorded image). As far as I know, the display settings persist across all dial positions (PASMC..). The strategy I use is to assign custom settings to modes of using the camera, i.e. landscape, portrait, street, etc. if there are different things I like to do in those modes, I decide where to put modifiers, like face detection, film simulation, etc. You have 3 more choices: button, the Q menu, My Menu. If you need it instantly (face detection on/off, subject detection) I put it on a button. If I like to be able to see the state because I change it often, I put it in the Q menu. I only use 8 and it's the things I change the most. MyMenu is where I put the next level of things I change, including most things I change from default so I can verify they are set correctly.

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