Internet Splitter Jb Hi Fi

[Doria Vilcan]

IfI connect my router directly to the main DSL cable, my internet works just fine. If I connect it to a telephone, it also works. When I try to use a splitter to use both the internet and the telephone, only the telephone works - also tried three different splitters, new cables, the router does not even see a DSL connection.

You need to use FILTERS, not splitters. A splitter just splices the line in 2, and the phone interferes with the DSL. A filter,as the name suggests, prevents this interference by putting a low pass filter on the phone leg.

This setup mostly works fine, but there are times in the day where both Internet and phone services suffer; eg: the Internet speed drops considerably due to excessive packet loss and the phone service degrades to the point of uselessness.

I've sourced the problem to the splitter. When I remove the splitter and plug one of the boxes in, I get solid performance. I'm currently using a Cable Matters 2-way 5Mhz-2.4Ghz splitter. The cable coming from the wall is 6ft; the two cables coming from the splitter are 3ft. All are RG6.

As a suggestion, try talking to the cable company. I had some rather poor splitters I bought myself and they replaced them for free. The replacements were CommScope SV-2G Digital Splitters rated for 5-1002Mhz.

They are cheap and my local cable provider had no problem handing them out. What surprised me was the overall pickup in quality over the ones I had bought. My Digital TV, cable and VoIP signals improved substantially.

At a guess, I suspect that part of the improvement may have been impedance matching (75 ohms) among the devices. I didn't see this spec on the splitter you mentioned so I might investigate this further.

I am uncertain of the behavior of newer amplifiers today but years ago I had a connection so bad that I was literally calling the cable company out almost every few weeks to diagnose this (then unknown) problem. After much trouble, the root cause turned out to be a signal amplifier (properly working, mind you) that had to be removed from the equation entirely before this horrendous problem magically cleared up.

This is my first post, I need some help, advice, some clarity (obviously why I'm here haha). I am somewhat tech savy and I am mechanically inclined. But the coax dB and frequencies and interference and such is all new terms to me since I have never ventured into this type of stuff besides connecting equuipment or putting a splitter in to have a cable ran to a new location. I have the X1 package, 1 gig internet ect. I did double check my speed was 1gig on my account. I have the newest white XFI modem( wish it wasnt white). Was having some DVR cable box and internet issues, like dropped signals, blotchy speeds, cable box freezing up and such. When it was first added to my account a couple years ago, the tech did not go under the house to install the amplifier that usually the X1 platform get when signing up but he did say my signal from the pole to my house was 0bB, which I was told the ideal number. So I went under the house noticed a BUNCH of splitters. Probably outdated, some a lot older and some newer. Not sure, who cares. Got get rid of all them. I went out and bought a Antronix VRA900B cable amplifier "9 Port Bi-Directional Cable TV Splitter Signal Booster/Amplifier with Active Return Zero Signal Loss VoIP Telephone Bypass Port." Ran the cable from my outside directly inside through the brick, no splits, into the "in" of the cable amplifier. I ran the "power" from the wall outlet adapter to the the 15V 400mA port. Next I ran the coax cables (all pre-existing installed with home some thicker some not so thick) from the "output" ports to all my tvs boxes. My cable modem coax cable is newer (thicker coax), it is run directly from the amplifier to the coax wall outlet (like a electrical outlet but coax and attach the cable onto) which then a short 3' included comcast cable connects it to the modem. My ultimate goal here is to have a very good TV signal to all my cable boxes and have the best cable modem performance WiFi distance/speed/strength/reliability that is possible.

Do I have to connect my XFI modem to the "-4dB VolP output" (not worried about power outages due to having a generator) or would it be better/ stronger to one of the regular "output"? Looking for the better signal strength output.

The position of my modem is directly in the center of my home, about 5' off the floor on a desk. May sound dumb to ask but, does a cordless phone that is connected to the modem that is 3' away on the other side of the desk effect the WiFi? They only gave me a 3' phone cable to attach to modem for landline, but I dont use it regardless. Should I just remove it? Also there is a small 2 speaker system, on the desk with a subwoofer on the floor. Would that have any effect on the Wifi also?

Thank you for your reply. I knew they installed amplifiers, just didnt know the exact brand and model at the time until now. So I purchased one thinking they all worked the same. My mistake. That is why I'm here asking for assistance haha. I asked regarding the passive or the regular outputs for the modem because I have read (yes i know its the internet) that people have also put the connection in the regular output port and had good results. So I'll remove the home phone line for possible interference and I will also buy the correct amplifier for the system.

So DVR in port 1, longest run port 2 and so on. Got it. How about the XFi modem/router? I have 0db signal from pole to house when comcast came out and tested it. So 0db going into the amp. Is it better to put modem on output or VoLp? As I said I do have a generator so power loss isnt a concern. Wifi signal strength and speed is goals.

@EG Thanks for your reply. I was told by Comcast Advanced Tech Support that I should replace my splitter because I was having a problem with loss of internet which would usually return overnight. The directional coupler that I was using was provided by comcast. Tech had me bypass the coupler and go direct from wall outlet to modem which restored by internet but no Tv. I then replaced the cable from wall to coupler in with a much shorter cable and ran out to modem and tap to cable tv box and it has been working for 2 days. Tech did not mention a directional coupler, they said to remove splitter and when that worked that I should replace it. From your response is using a directional coupler the proper choice.

The obvious ones: resetting the router, calling Verizon asssistance, switching out cables to brand new ones, having Verizon reset the network.... when all of those didn't work, they sent me out a new router.

The splitter works fine as I'm able to watch TV through it.. When connected directly to the wall, the router and internet work fine. Everything seems to be working fine on its own. It's when asked to work together through the splitter that everything decides to not work.

The splitter is the problem and needs to be replaced. If it works splendidly without the splitter, it will work with the splitter. The TV can work with a weaker signal than the router, so don't let that convince you not to replace the most likely culprit.

It is probably not a splitter with the correct specifications. It needs to be bi-directional and pass frequencies from at least 5-1000 MHz. An example of one that should work is the PDI-2WMS but any brand with the right specs should work.

I have a cable TV plus Internet coming into the house and into an 8-way splitter (CE Tech Home Command Center). From this splitter I have coax going to the cable modem plus 3 TV's. When I have my cable provider refresh my signal everything works fine for about two months. Then the interet gets gradually slower, and I have to have a signal refresh again. When I take the splitter out, the internet is back to full strength.

My question is how can the splitter gradually degrade the signal? It is just physical coax connections, no amplification or other electronics. I don't see how it can work on day 1 and gradually get slower.

Also, I could split the cable from outside, connect one to the modem and the other to the command center for the 3 TVs. Or I could buy a signal amplifier and boost the signal before it gets to the command center. Any recommendations on this?

There is a loss associated with every port on the splitter. If you look on the splitter, you'll probably see something like -4dB printed on each port. This is how much signal loss there is on that port.

Bad connector fittings on the end of the cable can make a huge difference, as can the length and quality of the cable used. By SOP, most cable installers would probably replace every RG6 compression fitting between the source and the modem.

Steven makes a good point about signal loss at the splitter. You should do your best to use the smallest splitter possible, and one that is designated for digital frequencies (older ones weren't tested for interference here).

You did not identify the cable modem type and model.

So only based on a Surfboard I reset my own monthly, The logs are cleared monthly.

But from studying the logs and talking with the engineers for our cable company, modems keep track of network conditions.

They will if repeated occurrence of interference occurs, both internal and external, that change one or more of the bonding channels used in a disruptive manor that channel can get bumped from usage. If enough disruption occurs to signals the modems will drop back to a slower through put.

I see the most trouble in our area when lightning storms and high winds occur (we have overhead lines). And then heavy issue when snowbirds return and leave causing techs to add-in or removal of service in area.

While you can install or remove splitters on your own, it is not recommended. For your equipment to work properly with your Sparklight equipment and provide clear reception, it must meet proper signal requirements. A splitter reduces the strength and quality of the cable signal to all devices connected to the splitter, which ultimately impacts your TV and broadband experience. A Sparklight technician can ensure that your equipment is receiving the proper signal level.

3a8082e126