As a powerdraw player, I just wanted to recommend that if you've not tried
playing one of the power tunings, it's really worth giving it a shot. And,
you don't have to drop a bunch of cash on a Seydel to give one a try...you
can acquire one of his economy harps on his site for about $50US just to
kick the tires. However, I have Seydel powerdraw harps and they are pretty
fantastic, worth the extra $$$ in my opinion. I don't play them anymore
though, because....
I personally prefer the more comfortable mouth feel of the Seydel's and S20
type recessed plate designs, but I'm a much better *player *on a MB or a
Manji due to the narrower hole spacing and the crisper comb edges. So,
I've also been picking up some crossovers and Manjis and (gulp) re-tuning
them myself with solder thanks to Richard Sleigh's toolkit and excellent
guidance. It's a huge pain in the ass. Getting them straight from Seydel
or from Brendan (with proper reeds factory installed for the right pitch,
not solder) is really the way to go. I don't notice any difference in
playing solder tuned vs. factory tuned, but they are just a huge pain to
re-tune. The only reason I do it myself it because you can't get a Manji
or crossover in power tuning direct from the factory like you can with
Seydel. If Hohner or Suzuki also adopted the tuning flexibility that
Seydel has when ordering online, then it would be fantastic. Maybe I'll
just bite the bullet in the future and start ordering the Seydel1847s
pre-tuned from Seydel. The $110 price tag is a little tough for me though,
when I can get Manjis and crossovers for substantially less.
One note on choosing powerdraw vs. powerbender: if you are primarily a 2nd
pos player, and the standard blues licks between holes 4 and 5 (such as the
standard 4 draw bend, 4draw, 5draw, repeat) are a big part of your playing,
then you might consider a powerdraw harp, which keeps richter 1-6
unchanged, but opens up 7-10 to great bluesy notes without having to OB.
You can still certainly play 2nd pos blues on a powerbender (in fact, it
was designed for 2nd position) but you lose some of the familiar and
standard lick *patterns* due to notes being separated.
My first power tuning was a powerbender, but I switched to powerdraw when I
realized the differences.
Anyway, give one a shot. If you favor holes 1-6 and just use 7-10
occasionally for embellishment, that will change with a power tuning. The
upper register plays just like the lower, so you can play with the same
confidence. In fact holes 1/2 and 8/9 are *identical. *It's pretty
liberating.
Other than having tremendous respect for him as a player and technician, I
have no association with Brendan.