[Harp-L] Sealing wood comb

[Cl...@aol.com]

Hi,
I'd like to know who seals their combs with polyurethane? I have been
lightly spraying them a couple of times, airing them out, and then putting the
harp back together. Is this safe? I know a little late to ask. I do like the
results though. Lot of throat and mouth cancer going around, so I started
to wonder a bit.

thanks for any info,

Chris Mastakas

[Larry Sandy]

Chris, all modern wood finishes are safe to use on food contact surfaces, once it has completely dried.  That isn't my claim, but can be read in this article:
http://voices.yahoo.com/food-safe-finishes-they-really-different-6309070.html

I checked this out a few years ago before using anything on food contact utensils that I made.

I have used bees wax, boiled linseed oil, polyurethane, lacquer, enamel and various spray paints on my harmonicas and it didn't improve my playing one semitone.

Lockjaw Larry

[Tom Halchak]

I believe that sealing a wood comb is not about what you put ON the wood but
rather what you put IN the wood. Ideally you want something that will soak
into and be absorbed by the wood so that all the pores are sealed. In that
regard, I have been using Shellac. It is very easy to work with and has
been used for decades as a wood finish. It is all natural and has been
approved by the USDA for use in foods. In the past three years + I have
sealed over 1,500 wood combs with shellac and have had very positive
results.



Tom Halchak

www.BlueMoonHarmonicas.com

Clearwater, FL

[Matt Rackerby]

I agree, soaking something into the wood is better. Wood cells dry up after
the tree is cut, they are emptied of their moisture. They expand and
contract as moisture swells them or as they dry out and empty again.
Covering/coating the wood to create a thin barrier of something may
eventually fail if the barrier isn't thick or durable enough.

Try soaking wood combs in mineral oil for a week, rub off excess, and sand
flat. Soak again, rub off excess oil. Works for me.

Regards,

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...... ’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’'’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’'’..

[Larry Sandy]

Matt, how long is your second soaking (after flat sanding)?  I have used it but never soaked for long.  Does it ever seep out, especially when it gets warm/hot?

Thanks
Lockjaw Larry

[Chris Reynolds]

I've had really good luck using butcher block finish. The only thing that I've come across is that the oils in certain exotic woods can affect the finish and not allow it to setup properly. Something that I find helpful as well is that after the finish is dry put the comb in the oven on 150 for about 15 to 30 minutes and it will reduce the smell of the finish considerably as well as ensure that it's fully cured. That also works well for dymondwood combs if they have a stronger smell than you would like.




Chris Reynolds
http://www.blowyourbrassoff.com

[Matt Rackerby]

I put it back in for a day or two second soak for the hell of it. I figured if there was a little warping with the original soak, the flat sand would take care of it, then just soaked it again to make sure it is well cured for the long term. The second soak may not be as critical. I wiped off the oil, between comb teeth and all, then let the wood air out for a day, a final wipe and assemble. No swelling and no problem with “sweating” out of the oil, but I haven’t let the harps get too hot (like in a 125+ dF car interior). They have been in 90-100 dF summer heat.

Regards,

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l\.<\...........Matt Rackerby.......\>\
\ \.<)______Visalia, CA_______)>\
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...... ’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’'’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’'’..