Hey Fred, I am so jealous! You will have such a wonderful time! I would not worry to much about the crowd's it is a big place. I just looked at temps and it looks like it is going to be a little on the cool side so most importantly you are going to want to climb on the sunny walls. It can get pretty darn cold on the upper pitches on the climbs in the shade!
Check out:
Johnny Vegas to Solar Slab--Oak Creek Canyon
Birdland---Pine Creek
Geronimo--has been a few years since I climbed this I think it is in Juniper Canyon??
Cat in the Hat--Mesqelito
Olive Oil----can be a challenge to find and is best with a 70m rope but it is wonderful--Juniper Canyon (you park in Pine Creek and walk from there)
Lotta Balls, Black Magic, Lucky Lady-----First creek Canyon (Lucky Lady is a newer climb so it is not in the book you have to go online to get the topo and beta but it is super easy and fun! However the decent has 5-6 rappels and is harder than the climb so you
do NOT want to do it in the dark for the first time so get an early start if you do this one!!)
Also you will have shorter days so You will want to make sure you do not pick climbs that are to long and then end up coming down in the dark. Some of the down climbs can be kind of steep so make sure you do them in the daylight!
Have fun and let me know what you end up doing and how it goes!!
L :)