Miura VS vs XS, Katan, TC Pro

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Siew Moi Khor

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Oct 11, 2010, 2:31:41 AM10/11/10
to Mountaineers 5.9 In The Alpine Group, hard-c...@googlegroups.com
Hi,
1. I'm searching the web trying to figure out the difference between
La Sportiva Miura VS vs Miura XS without much luck.

Does anyone know the differences between them other than one using
lacing, the other velcro, and of course the price?
http://www.backcountry.com/store/compare.html?chk_compare_LSP0161=1&chk_compare_LSP0163=1&x=25&y=4

2. Does Miura perform better than Katana on thin cracks and smearing?

3. Does anyone know if La Sportiva plan to make women version of the
TC Pro? If so when will them come out? I read good things about them
here:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=908278&tn=60

Thanks,
Siew Moi

Loni UCHYTIL

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Oct 11, 2010, 9:47:20 AM10/11/10
to hard-c...@googlegroups.com
hey siew,  now shoes I know--LOL. 
 
Miura VSW this is the new version of their classic and it is a velcro version instead of lace up and they have now put a stiffer P3 midsole in the shoe for amazing edging and hooking abilities.  I climb with the womens version of the VS lace and love them!  The perform amazing on hard edging face stuff.  The are slightly downturned and asymetric so I don't find them comfortable enough to be an all day shoe and they can be a little painful in the cracks.
 
Katana i love and is my go to shoe for everything!  It is a little flatter shoe than the Miura and so can be worn all day with a little more ease.  It performs well on everything for me. edging, cracks and slab.  The only thing for me was that i found the mens version to fit my foot better than the womens.  The mens heel fits slightly higher and the toe box is slightly wider so if you have a flat foot with wider toe box you might want to try both versions on before you decide.  The new Lace is the same shoe the both have the Vibram XS sole.
 
TC pro--have not heard anything about a womens version but as with most climbing shoes it is probably generic.  It has a pretty flat last and is designed to be worn all day for moderate to hard trad routes.  I know someone that climbs with them and he has been pretty happy with them.
gotta run to work hope this helps.
Loni



 
> Date: Sun, 10 Oct 2010 23:31:41 -0700
> Subject: Miura VS vs XS, Katan, TC Pro
> From: smkh...@gmail.com
> To: 5-9A...@googlegroups.com
> CC: hard-c...@googlegroups.com

Gene Yore

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Oct 11, 2010, 10:17:56 AM10/11/10
to hard-c...@googlegroups.com, Deb Sand
This is so awesome.  

Should it have a wider post?  5.9 or Sport, or ?  

Siew Moi Khor

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Oct 11, 2010, 11:26:07 PM10/11/10
to The Mountaineers Hard Cragging Group, the-mountaineers-s...@googlegroups.com, 5-9A...@googlegroups.com
Thanks Loni for the info.

Do I understand correctly that:
i) Miura VS Vibram XS and Miura Vibram XS essentially are the same?
Except:
a) for price & lacing\velcro
b) VS has a stiffer P3 midsole

ii) Miura VS Vibram XS performs better than Miura Vibram XS?

I only get to try Miura Vibram XS in the store bcoz they didn't have
the VS version.
http://www.backcountry.com/store/compare.html?chk_compare_LSP0164=1&chk_compare_LSP0162=1&x=46&y=8

I cannot wear men's version bcoz the smallest is still too big for me.

p.s. Adding 5.9 and sports climbing per Gene's suggestions.


On Oct 11, 7:17 am, Gene Yore <e...@yore.info> wrote:
> This is so awesome.  
>
> Should it have a wider post?  5.9 or Sport, or ?  
>
> On Oct 11, 2010, at 6:47 AM, Loni UCHYTIL wrote:
>
>
>
> > hey siew,  now shoes I know--LOL.  
>
> > Miura VSW this is the new version of their classic and it is a velcro version instead of lace up and they have now put a stiffer P3 midsole in the shoe for amazing edging and hooking abilities.  I climb with the womens version of the VS lace and love them!  The perform amazing on hard edging face stuff.  The are slightly downturned and asymetric so I don't find them comfortable enough to be an all day shoe and they can be a little painful in the cracks.
>
> > Katana i love and is my go to shoe for everything!  It is a little flatter shoe than the Miura and so can be worn all day with a little more ease.  It performs well on everything for me. edging, cracks and slab.  The only thing for me was that i found the mens version to fit my foot better than the womens.  The mens heel fits slightly higher and the toe box is slightly wider so if you have a flat foot with wider toe box you might want to try both versions on before you decide.  The new Lace is the same shoe the both have the Vibram XS sole.
>
> > TC pro--have not heard anything about a womens version but as with most climbing shoes it is probably generic.  It has a pretty flat last and is designed to be worn all day for moderate to hard trad routes.  I know someone that climbs with them and he has been pretty happy with them.
> > gotta run to work hope this helps.
> > Loni
>
> > > Date: Sun, 10 Oct 2010 23:31:41 -0700
> > > Subject: Miura VS vs XS, Katan, TC Pro
> > > From: smkho...@gmail.com
> > > To: 5-9A...@googlegroups.com
> > > CC: hard-c...@googlegroups.com
>
> > > Hi,
> > > 1. I'm searching the web trying to figure out the difference between
> > > La Sportiva Miura VS vs Miura XS without much luck.
>
> > > Does anyone know the differences between them other than one using
> > > lacing, the other velcro, and of course the price?
> > >http://www.backcountry.com/store/compare.html?chk_compare_LSP0161=1&c...
>
> > > 2. Does Miura perform better than Katana on thin cracks and smearing?
>
> > > 3. Does anyone know if La Sportiva plan to make women version of the
> > > TC Pro? If so when will them come out? I read good things about them
> > > here:
> > >http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=908278&tn=60
>
> > > Thanks,
> > > Siew Moi- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

Loni UCHYTIL

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Oct 12, 2010, 12:22:32 AM10/12/10
to hard-c...@googlegroups.com
No problem.
 
yes it sounds like you have a pretty good idea of things.  There is a great write up on all the shoes you mentioned in the August issue of the climbing magazine if you can get your hands on one.  i have it if you want me to lend it to Shannon let me know and i will bring it along on Wed for him and he can pass it along. 
 
I wear the smallest size men's katana and it is a European 36.  you must have very tiny feet a womans size 4 or 5? I am a 5.5/6. 
 
I don't know how hard you climb but realistically unless you are planning to climb 5.11 or harder I don't think the performance issues for these particular shoes are going to be the part of the shoe that you will need to focus on.  They are all wonderful shoes and perform very well for anything that you climb at a 5.10d level or lower.  It will be fit/comfort and what type of climbing you plan to use the shoe for that you might want to focus on.   If you are looking for an all day multi use shoe the aggressive down turn of the Miura last is going to be hard to wear all day.  If you want an all day shoe you want a flatter last and something a little less aggressive so it is comfortable to wear for pitch after pitch.  The Katana still performs super well but is not as cambered.  It has an asymetric toe for jamming thinner cracks and a stiffer mid sole for cracks as well but I have also used them on a 5.11b slab and they were great!  You would also be welcome to try any of my shoes on if you can't find them in the store.  i also have a very small version of the 5.10 anastazi lace up that is a very good shoe as well  I think it is a 35.  It is super tight on me and I mostly save them for Smith rocks. But I need to take them off after every pitch!!
 
The 5.10 Granstone is just like the TC pro but a little cheaper and won the Editors choice award for shoes this summer ??  good all day all around shoe.
 
good luck
L :)



 
> Date: Mon, 11 Oct 2010 20:26:07 -0700
> Subject: Re: Miura VS vs XS, Katan, TC Pro
> From: smkh...@gmail.com
> To: hard-c...@googlegroups.com
> CC: the-mountaineers-s...@googlegroups.com; 5-9A...@googlegroups.com
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