FWO No.1 Pre- Installation of UMSR-50 with EWC Zone Control Board

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James Kocaba

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Jul 11, 2011, 7:40:19 AM7/11/11
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From: James Kocaba <james...@gmail.com>
To: "hallowel...@googlegroups.com" <hallowel...@googlegroups.com>
Subject: FWO No.1 Pre-Installation of UMSR-50 with EWC Zone Control Board

Gabe,


The attached photo is our EWC zone control board.  We have two zones -
first and second floor.

There have been some other posts in regards to replacing the existing
potential relays with the UMSR-50 on a system that has two zones, similar to
ours.  I have a few questions before I go ahead and order the UMSR-50.


  1. Based upon the attached ECW control board photo do you think our 4
  Ton 2 zone system will run properly with the newly installed UMSR-50? Do you need more detailed photos of the control board?
  2. I'm confused on whether or not I need to replace the start cap in
  addition to installing the UMSR-50.
  3. I'm also unsure if the existing 4 Ton start cap has a bleed resistor
  that can transfer to the new start cap if necessary.

Thanks in advance.

--
James T. Kocaba
james...@gmail.com
203 650 4634

photo 1.JPG

David Friedman

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Jul 11, 2011, 9:22:01 AM7/11/11
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Although there was some confusion about Acadia operation with zone control - it had nothing to do with the FWO since starting the motor is starting the motor independent of how the Accadia decides to use the heat or what level of heat it calls for.
 
with respect to the cap - we have extensively tested the 154 on the 3 ton and I have tested reasonabley the 189 on the 4 ton so that is what is being suggested.
 
Bleed resistanc sometimes comes with purchased start caps and can easily be seen mounted between cap posts either with push ons or soldered.  The part is a 15K ohm 1/2 watt R easily bought at radio shack.
 
David

Chris Papademetrious

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Jul 11, 2011, 10:59:08 AM7/11/11
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Hi Gabe,

Do you plan to sell 3-ton start caps at some point?  I think there are at least a few of us who are wondering about availability, and would prefer to go through you if possible.

Thanks!

 - Chris

Brian Goates

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Jul 11, 2011, 11:01:33 AM7/11/11
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I would like to purchase the 4 ton cap. Can someone give me a part number ?

David Friedman

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Jul 11, 2011, 12:26:30 PM7/11/11
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Brian
 
I just stole the 189 start cap from the booster - figuring that Gabe would start stocking the needed parts before winter when I needed the booster again.
 
David

James Kocaba

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Jul 11, 2011, 2:44:05 PM7/11/11
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I'm trying to coordinate with my installer to complete the entire FWO No.1 in one visit.  It would be nice to have all parts on hand when they arrive.  Where can I a purchase a new 4ton start cap? Or should I wait until Gabe begins selling a FWO No.1 parts package?  Will there be a new video on how to replace the start cap and bleed resistor?
Sent from my iPhone

Ronald Eleveld

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Jul 11, 2011, 5:25:31 PM7/11/11
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My units have been updated with the FWO.

So far July 1st to present they are working wonderfully.

I have a 2 zone 3t, and a 2 zone 4t.

Ron

one mad dealer

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Jul 11, 2011, 7:07:04 PM7/11/11
to Hallowell Acadia
I am waiting for capacitors to come in. I think I have a good source
for capacitors with bleed resistors already built in as this is the
ideal setup. The savemyacadia.org website is going to be up soon and
will have a place to buy and pay for parts. I am currently trying to
buy in bulk to offer parts at a good price. The new site is going to
be awesome. I got to preview it and make requests. There will be a
complete discussion forum with everything separated by topic. I
believe that the new forum will address the things that make the
Google group frustrating. I think everyone will be really happy with
the format.

Gabe

On Jul 11, 5:25 pm, Ronald Eleveld <rcelev...@gmail.com> wrote:
> My units have been updated with the FWO.
>
> So far July 1st to present they are working wonderfully.
>
> I have a 2 zone 3t, and a 2 zone 4t.
>
> Ron
>
>
>
> On Mon, Jul 11, 2011 at 2:44 PM, James Kocaba <jameskoc...@gmail.com> wrote:
> > I'm trying to coordinate with my installer to complete the entire FWO No.1
> > in one visit.  It would be nice to have all parts on hand when they arrive.
> >  Where can I a purchase a new 4ton start cap? Or should I wait until Gabe
> > begins selling a FWO No.1 parts package?  Will there be a new video on how
> > to replace the start cap and bleed resistor?
>
> > James T. Kocaba
> > jameskoc...@gmail.com
> >203 650 4634
> > Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Jul 11, 2011, at 9:22 AM, David Friedman <dafrie...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > Although there was some confusion about Acadia operation with zone control
> > - it had nothing to do with the FWO since starting the motor is starting the
> > motor independent of how the Accadia decides to use the heat or what level
> > of heat it calls for.
>
> > with respect to the cap - we have extensively tested the 154 on the 3 ton
> > and I have tested reasonabley the 189 on the 4 ton so that is what is being
> > suggested.
>
> > Bleed resistanc sometimes comes with purchased start caps and can easily be
> > seen mounted between cap posts either with push ons or soldered.  The part
> > is a 15K ohm 1/2 watt R easily bought at radio shack.
>
> > David
>
> > On Mon, Jul 11, 2011 at 7:40 AM, James Kocaba < <jameskoc...@gmail.com>
> > jameskoc...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> >> *From:* James Kocaba < <jameskoc...@gmail.com>jameskoc...@gmail.com>
> >> *To:* " <hallowel...@googlegroups.com>
> >> hallowel...@googlegroups.com" < <hallowel...@googlegroups.com>
> >> hallowel...@googlegroups.com>
> >> *Subject:* *FWO No.1 Pre-Installation of UMSR-50 with EWC Zone Control
> >> Board*
>
> >> Gabe,
>
> >> The attached photo is our EWC zone control board.  We have two zones -
> >> first and second floor.
>
> >> There have been some other posts in regards to replacing the existing
> >> potential relays with the UMSR-50 on a system that has two zones, similar
> >> to
> >> ours.  I have a few questions before I go ahead and order the UMSR-50.
>
> >>   1. Based upon the attached ECW control board photo do you think our 4
> >>    Ton 2 zone system will run properly with the newly installed UMSR-50?
> >> Do you need more detailed photos of the control board?
> >>   2. I'm confused on whether or not I need to replace the start cap in
> >>    addition to installing the UMSR-50.
> >>   3. I'm also unsure if the existing 4 Ton start cap has a bleed resistor
> >>   that can transfer to the new start cap if necessary.
>
> >> Thanks in advance.
>
> >> --
> >> James T. Kocaba
> >> <jameskoc...@gmail.com>jameskoc...@gmail.com
> >>203 650 4634- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

USN-LPD7

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Jul 12, 2011, 10:43:17 AM7/12/11
to Hallowell Acadia
2 Questions-

1. When ordering the caps do we need to specify that I need a start
cap with the specific MF values or does it matter?

2. While getting reacquainted with my system since installing it 2
years ago I realized that we checked everything during the install
with the exception of the fan CFM setting on the AH control board. I
have a 4 ton unit in a 2100 sf home, single zone, the ducting which
was installed for the heat pump is sized to accommodate at least 1600
cfm. I have often though that the fan should be blowing harder based
on what came out of the vents but it never dawned on me to verify the
jumpers for proper fan speed. My question is based on the info what
would be the ideal fan CFM setting for my AH?

Thank you.

Ernst denBroeder

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Jul 12, 2011, 11:34:45 AM7/12/11
to hallowel...@googlegroups.com
The install manual (rev 03.25.09) lists the 4T air handler jumpers as:
Heat: A
Delay: A
Cool: D
Adjust: B

Ernst
---
Sent from my iPod

one mad dealer

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Jul 12, 2011, 3:59:04 PM7/12/11
to Hallowell Acadia
Typically, you are trying to achieve 400cfm per ton, so 1600 is
correct... for most systems. If you look at the chart in the book,
the Acadia manual tells you to set it for Cool D and Adjust B as Ernst
pointed out (1306cfm). I'm not entirely sure how they are getting
away with that low of a fan speed.

Gabe

On Jul 12, 11:34 am, Ernst denBroeder <erns...@gmail.com> wrote:
> The install manual (rev 03.25.09) lists the 4T air handler jumpers as:
> Heat: A
> Delay: A
> Cool: D
> Adjust: B
>
> Ernst
> ---
> Sent from my iPod
>
> >>> - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -

USN-LPD7

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Jul 13, 2011, 11:28:19 AM7/13/11
to Hallowell Acadia
I have set the AH at A-B-B-A which should give me 1603 cfm with a
humid setting and will see how things go.

With respect to my cap question do I have to specify that the cap is
intended as a start cap or does it make any difference? Obviously I
would get one with the specific MF specs.

On Jul 12, 3:59 pm, one mad dealer <G...@JosephsIAQ.com> wrote:
> Typically, you are trying to achieve 400cfm per ton, so 1600 is
> correct... for most systems.  If you look at the chart in the book,
> the Acadia manual tells you to set it for Cool D and Adjust B as Ernst
> pointed out (1306cfm).  I'm not entirely sure how they are getting
> away with that low of a fan speed.
>
> Gabe
>
> On Jul 12, 11:34 am, Ernst denBroeder <erns...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> > The install manual (rev 03.25.09) lists the 4T air handler jumpers as:
> > Heat: A
> > Delay: A
> > Cool: D
> > Adjust: B
>
> > Ernst
> > ---
> > Sent from my iPod
>

David Friedman

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Jul 13, 2011, 4:24:14 PM7/13/11
to hallowel...@googlegroups.com
You need to specify voltage range at 350 volts and correct Uf.

USN-LPD7

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Jul 22, 2011, 1:44:43 PM7/22/11
to Hallowell Acadia
I just bought a 189-227mf @ 330vac start capacitor that did not have
the bleed resistor so I will swap that out if it is possible or get a
new one. Just to confirm the start capacitor is the aluminum can
correct? Also does the lower mf mean that the system uses less energy,
someone had eluded to this in another post and was curious?

one mad dealer

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Jul 22, 2011, 3:16:38 PM7/22/11
to Hallowell Acadia
Start cap will say start cap on it. Usually plastic, but not always

gabe

David Friedman

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Jul 22, 2011, 3:38:24 PM7/22/11
to hallowel...@googlegroups.com
If so only marginally since the start cap is in the circuit only until the motor is up to speed.  The "burst" of start energy is much lower starttime is longer.  Mathmatically I think that it pours half as much energy over twice the time and this more or less cancels out.  But the lower torque is dramatically easier on the motor mechanically.
 
David

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