Acadia How To

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one mad dealer

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Jun 10, 2011, 2:32:42 PM6/10/11
to Hallowell Acadia
Click on the link below to go to my YouTube "How To" video. This
video will help you determine which circuit board you have, where the
sensors are located and how to retrieve error codes.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xRK5QFDV5bU

I have started a new thread with the subject "How to- comments and
requests". Please keep this thread geared to "How To" so it doesn't
get cluttered with questions and comments.

Thanks and I hope this helps.

Gabe

one mad dealer

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Jun 10, 2011, 2:39:54 PM6/10/11
to Hallowell Acadia
Please click the link below to see a video on "How to test a
temperature sensor".

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GwcFkPrfP1I

Gabe

Gene

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Jun 10, 2011, 4:16:28 PM6/10/11
to Hallowell Acadia
Gabe, Thank you! Thank you! Thank you!!!! for the videos.

Can you publish the table of normal resistance for temps?

Thanks again! Gene

Chris Papademetrious

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Jun 10, 2011, 4:35:56 PM6/10/11
to hallowel...@googlegroups.com
Great videos, Gabe!

- Chris

Twin Ports Custom Climate

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Jun 10, 2011, 5:53:38 PM6/10/11
to hallowel...@googlegroups.com
I dont remember who was looking for it - but here is the upgrade instructions for the new control board and sensors - The file was to big to email so I put a generic page on my website =
 
 
On the left side you will see a documentation link - Click that
 
Chad Thompson
Sales and Service Consultant
Twin Ports Custom Climate
(715)392-8333
1-800-831-0375
ser...@twinportscustomclimate.com



From: Chris Papademetrious <chris...@gmail.com>
To: hallowel...@googlegroups.com
Sent: Fri, June 10, 2011 3:35:56 PM
Subject: Re: Acadia How To

siver

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Jun 12, 2011, 9:08:44 AM6/12/11
to Hallowell Acadia
Chad,
Thank you for posting this but I tried opening the file in IE7 and
Firfox and got the same message...that the shortcut link has no
document. Have you opened it yourself and if so what browser did you
use?
Thanks,
Jerry Siver

On Jun 10, 5:53 pm, Twin Ports Custom Climate
<serv...@twinportscustomclimate.com> wrote:
> I dont remember who was looking for it - but here is the upgrade instructions
> for the new control board and sensors - The file was to big to email so I put a
> generic page on my website =
>
> http://www.twinportscustomclimate.com/
>
> On the left side you will see a documentation link - Click that
>  Chad Thompson
> Sales and Service Consultant
> Twin Ports Custom Climate
> (715)392-8333
> 1-800-831-0375
> serv...@twinportscustomclimate.com
>
> ________________________________
> From: Chris Papademetrious <chrispit...@gmail.com>

one mad dealer

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Jun 12, 2011, 10:13:57 AM6/12/11
to Hallowell Acadia
Chad and Jerry,

I can't open the document on my windows mobile browser either. I will
see if I have the doc in a PDF format. I often have luck searching in
bing. Try a search for "invensys control board pdf" and see if the
manual comes up.

Gabe
> > - Chris- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

one mad dealer

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Jun 17, 2011, 8:38:07 AM6/17/11
to Hallowell Acadia
Temperature (°F) vs Resistance (Ù) Chart
-40 84.21
-30 86.41
-20 88.61
-10 90.81
0 93.01
10 95.2
20 97.38
30 99.57
40 101.74
50 103.9
60 106.06
70 108.22
80 110.38
90 112.53
100 114.68
110 116.82
120 118.97
130 121.1


Gabe

one mad dealer

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Jul 1, 2011, 11:54:55 AM7/1/11
to Hallowell Acadia
Please click the link below to see a video on "How to replace a
contactor".


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cUzNam97jzM

Gabe

USN-LPD7

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Jul 2, 2011, 1:43:56 PM7/2/11
to Hallowell Acadia
Installed the new potential relay and for the moment things look good.
Was surprised to see the condition of the old relays once opened sure
glad caught it in time. My contractors look clean so I will hold off
on replacing with the Siemens that I have on hand. One question is are
we going to keep the existing start caps in the units, seems to me
like there is a whole ton of power getting pushed to the compressor.
Also I noticed that in the updated FWO the cap size has been
increased, is this correct? If so I will need to return the one I
purchased and get the updated one if replacing is recommended. Thank
you.

David Friedman

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Jul 2, 2011, 3:14:33 PM7/2/11
to hallowel...@googlegroups.com
Two questions
 
1.  Did you get a chance to try and ohm (wothpower off) the right hand contact on both of the GE contactors.  If they were showing signs of low ohmage (the should read zero on the lowest ohmeter scale) then you were days from failure. 
 
2.  4,3 or 2 ton?  I used 189 UF on my 4 ton and I think that is where we are going to end up.  Gabe is testing a 3 ton in more detail.
 
David

one mad dealer

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Jul 2, 2011, 4:31:08 PM7/2/11
to Hallowell Acadia
The 3 ton at my shop is going through rigorous testing both in heating
and cooling with a 145uf cap and has worked perfectly. That is likely
the cap we would choose the 3ton.

Gabe
> > > Gabe- Hide quoted text -

Gene

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Jul 2, 2011, 4:53:20 PM7/2/11
to Hallowell Acadia
Hi Gabe, are you ready to recommend a cap size for 4 ton? Thanks. Gene
> > - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -

one mad dealer

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Jul 2, 2011, 7:43:37 PM7/2/11
to Hallowell Acadia
Gene,

Once we now under what circumstances the compressor won't start with
the new cap we will suggest people make the change. I have done what
Chris asked and run the system in heat mode to determine if there was
any slower equalization time, and have not found that to be the case.
I unfortunately dont have a 4ton system to run the same tests at my
shop, so I will be doing that in the field soon.

Gabe

USN-LPD7

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Jul 3, 2011, 11:22:44 AM7/3/11
to Hallowell Acadia
I was so focused on getting the relay installed I didnt bother with
the ohm readings unfortunately. I bought the 145-175mf for the 4 ton
based on the earlier FOW, should I return it and go with the updated
FOW?

Also should the booster relay be replaced with the UMSR50? If so is it
as straight forward as the original? I was thrown off by jumping from
1 cap to another, counter to the limited knowledge I have with HVAC
circuitry.


Curious: Since the 2nd floor is a couple of degrees higher than the
main (par for a single zone) is it reasonable or does it pay to have
the fan run continuously to even out the interior envelope? I have
experimented with running it continuously and it seemed that the
environment was consistent but not sure if the air handler is designed
to run like that or if the energy used to run the fan off sets the
costs associated with maintaining a lower temp.

Thank you.

On Jul 2, 3:14 pm, David Friedman <dafrie...@gmail.com> wrote:

one mad dealer

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Jul 3, 2011, 11:48:04 AM7/3/11
to Hallowell Acadia
You certainly can run the fan continuously. Because the indoor units
use a variable speed fan, it won't use much energy. Don't return the
cap until I try it in a 4 ton unit and determine if it should not be
used.

Gabe

David Friedman

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Jul 3, 2011, 11:49:36 AM7/3/11
to hallowel...@googlegroups.com
Unfortunately we don't have a good test facility to truly determine if the 145 will have any problems starting under brown out (low voltage conditions) and highest temperature levels. From a theory standpoint - it should deliver enough torque to  start into about 200 psi and low voltage (200 vs 220).  I think you will be fine with the 145 and may even have better compressor life.
 
As I said I used the 189 since I was able to pull it out from the booster which won't be needed until winter!
 
If you retained the old GE relays - you can still do the ohm readings and I would appareciate your taking the time.  Turn off power - push in each contactor - and ohm across the right side contact.  You sould get a solid zero ohms on the lowest reading of the meter.
 
David

one mad dealer

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Jul 3, 2011, 12:55:43 PM7/3/11
to Hallowell Acadia
I will post a video In the beginning of the week on how to bench test
a GE contactor.

Gabe

Chris Papademetrious

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Jul 4, 2011, 7:55:23 AM7/4/11
to hallowel...@googlegroups.com
The Hallowell's York air handler has an ECM motor, which is very
energy-efficient and lends itself to 24/7 use.

My own house is 2-story, single-zone. I had the same idea of running
the fan 24/7 to even out air temperatures. It does indeed do this,
but our indoor humidity rose several percent. (high 50s). Normally,
when the A/C shuts off, the fan shuts off too and all the moisture on
the coil drains away. When the fan runs 24/7, the fan simply
re-evaporates that coil moisture back into the house. We ended up
going back to the standard fan-only-during-conditioning operation.

We also changed the comfort setting jumper on the blower to "humid"
which allows the dehumidification to get a head start.

I suggest trying the always-on fan in your own house and see how it
goes. Every house is different. If humidity isn't a problem, you're
in good shape!

- Chris

Message has been deleted
Message has been deleted

David Friedman

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Jul 5, 2011, 10:26:43 AM7/5/11
to hallowel...@googlegroups.com
Looking at the "wear" on the power contacts is not any indication of failure or problem.  These power contactors are designed to arc and wipe clean and wear.  But not to be used as a logic control contact - which is were the problem occurs.
 
As I have posted - the use of the USMR will make no differance to the booster starting.  And we have almost never heard of any booster failures despite it being the only "new tech" used by the Acadia.
 
Looks are deceiving - phyics and engieering science are not.  The contact that fails always looks pristene.  Failure is cause by a subtle mechanism that couses an open on l2.
 
david

On Tue, Jul 5, 2011 at 10:11 AM, RJP1267 <torro...@gmail.com> wrote:
Once we get past this heat wave I will test them and shoot off the
data.

Also what is the consensus on replacing the booster with the UMSR?
Given the condition of the 2 that have been replaced I dont see how
the booster PR would be in any better condition.

Anyone know what size screws (5) are that hold the external service
panel door? I need to get a tap and re-tap a couple.

Thank you.


On Jul 3, 11:49 am, David Friedman <dafrie...@gmail.com> wrote:

Chris Papademetrious

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Jul 5, 2011, 10:29:57 AM7/5/11
to hallowel...@googlegroups.com
Nope, you are describing exactly what we felt too. We have a RH gauge
and were able to directly observe the increased humidity with the 24/7
fan operation.

You are getting into a topic well beyond the Hallowell itself -
running the air handler 24/7 to even out temperatures, but then adding
a dehumidifier to make up for the lack of coil drying. Whole-house
dehumidifiers aren't cheap to buy or install, and they do cost
electricity to run. I suggest you take this question to

http://hvac-talk.com/vbb/

As a first step, I would buy a RH gauge and determine your indoor
humidity levels when your fan runs only on-call versus 24/7. If your
RH is high either way, a dehumidifier might be a good investment. If
the RH is only uncomfortable with 24/7 fan operation, then your
dollars may be better spent figuring out how to resolve the
temperature imbalance in other ways. The money spent on a
dehumidifier might also be spent solving the original problem in a
different way.

FYI, we are putting a MyTemp zoning system in our new house. VERY
expensive, but fully solves floor-to-floor and room-to-room
temperature control issues.

- Chris


On Tue, Jul 5, 2011 at 10:14 AM, RJP1267 <torro...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Yeah I have noticed that the RH seems higher, I feel warm/sweat in the
> house despite the temp being 72-73 degrees but my wife thinks its cold
> and looks at me like I am nuts when I say I am hot. Maybe I am going
> through male menopause.......  :)
>
> I may look into installing an inline humidifier/dehumidifier on the
> return, any thoughts on that?

USN-LPD7

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Jul 5, 2011, 11:50:38 AM7/5/11
to Hallowell Acadia
I have noticed that the humidity appears to be higher but that could
just be my personal feeling, would need to get a RH meter to actually
tell for sure.

What are my options for a dehumidifier in the air handler and is it
worth it?

USN-LPD7

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Jul 5, 2011, 11:55:17 AM7/5/11
to Hallowell Acadia
I will try and get to that info posted soon, I have tons of projects
running at once and am trying to get my list cut down.

I have seen a previous post about the UMSR for the booster, any ideas/
thoughts on that?

Also I saw someone else is having the same issue I am with the
external cover screws, I need to get some new screws and anti seize
and possibly a tap to fix them, dont know if the manual has the screw
size/thread in it, will try and look later.

Thanks.


On Jul 3, 11:49 am, David Friedman <dafrie...@gmail.com> wrote:

one mad dealer

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Jul 7, 2011, 6:14:20 PM7/7/11
to Hallowell Acadia
Please click on the link below to see the 3 ton Acadia life testing
with the UMSR relay and a 145-175 start cap. I think everyone will
get a kick out of what I am putting this system through. Many people
have gotten their system working with the UMSR already. I have well
over a thousand starts on the UMSR and the 145 start cap. At this
rate I will have simulated a few years of operation in a few days.
Enjoy!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZLLo9xb8V_A


Gabe

Tom Berkey

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Jul 7, 2011, 6:25:54 PM7/7/11
to hallowel...@googlegroups.com
Gabe,

I just viewed your video, but it stopped at 6:15 (of 7:37) leaving you in mid sentence ( ..and). Nice work, would like to see the last minute! Are others having the same problem?/

Tom

Chris Papademetrious

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Jul 7, 2011, 6:27:38 PM7/7/11
to hallowel...@googlegroups.com
Gabe, what a fantastic video! It is impressive to see the system
going through this torture test. Once again, I have to thank both you
and David for your exceptional work.

Which reminds me, I need to drop some checks in the mail tomorrow...

I am looking forward to:

1. the available of ready-to-install starting caps on your Ebay website
2. instructions on how to test the resistance across the contactors

Is #2 as simple as just shutting down the power and putting a
multimeter across it? Or do I need to also disconnect the connecting
wires too?

- Chris

Chris Papademetrious

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Jul 7, 2011, 6:28:33 PM7/7/11
to hallowel...@googlegroups.com
Tom, this happened to me the first time. I closed and reopened my
browser, reopened the email, and clicked on the link again, and it
played fine through until the end.

- Chris

one mad dealer

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Jul 7, 2011, 7:01:25 PM7/7/11
to Hallowell Acadia
I was able to watch the whole thing when I clicked on the link.

Gabe

On Jul 7, 6:25 pm, Tom Berkey <tom.ber...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Gabe,
>
> I just viewed your video, but it stopped at 6:15 (of 7:37) leaving you in
> mid sentence ( ..and). Nice work, would like to see the last minute! Are
> others having the same problem?/
>
> Tom
>
> On Thu, Jul 7, 2011 at 4:14 PM, one mad dealer <G...@josephsiaq.com> wrote:
>
>
>
> > Please click on the link below to see the 3 ton Acadia life testing
> > with the UMSR relay and a 145-175 start cap.  I think everyone will
> > get a kick out of what I am putting this system through.  Many people
> > have gotten their system working with the UMSR already.  I have well
> > over a thousand starts on the UMSR and the 145 start cap.  At this
> > rate I will have simulated a few years of operation in a few days.
> > Enjoy!
>
> >http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZLLo9xb8V_A
>

one mad dealer

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Jul 7, 2011, 7:07:45 PM7/7/11
to Hallowell Acadia
Chris
I will do a video on testing the contacts on the contactors. Again a
situation where I need someone else to record while I demonstrate. My
first attempt didn't come out good at all.

Gabe
> > - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -

Gene

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Jul 7, 2011, 9:58:19 PM7/7/11
to Hallowell Acadia
Gabe,

Yet another fantastic job! Thanks so much (once again)

Gene

David Friedman

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Jul 8, 2011, 9:43:33 AM7/8/11
to hallowel...@googlegroups.com
This one should get an Oscar!
 
Thanks - Dave

one mad dealer

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Jul 8, 2011, 4:33:00 PM7/8/11
to Hallowell Acadia
Please click the link below to see my How To video on testing the GE
contactors. Since I am using an auto-scale meter, I can just set it
to OHM's and test. Anyone using an older style meter may have to set
it to the lower OHM scale. Enjoy.

---Yes Ron, this is your old unit---

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UQPrl45DnHw

David Friedman

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Jul 8, 2011, 4:36:52 PM7/8/11
to hallowel...@googlegroups.com
Getting back to our test rig.  I think we should put in the Seiman's contactors plus wiring in the coils of the potential relays and perhaps a light that is switched off by the potential relays contact so it is easy to monitor the ongoing life of the low powered contact in actual real operation.   I suspect the Seiman's is more rigid and perhaps won't even fail - but it would be good to know.
 
David

one mad dealer

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Jul 8, 2011, 7:50:28 PM7/8/11
to Hallowell Acadia
What David suggested is the next step. I will wire the potential
relays to L2 on new siemens contactors and see when they fail or cause
a relay to fail. The UMSR is holding up great and the only issue I've
had with the start cap is overheating when starting first stage with
less than a minute off delay hundreds of times. Now we might as well
monitor how quickly a failure occurs with siemens contactors. This
would prove that Bristol was full of bs saying hallowell used junk
contactors.

Gabe

On Jul 8, 4:36 pm, David Friedman <dafrie...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Getting back to our test rig.  I think we should put in the Seiman's
> contactors plus wiring in the coils of the potential relays and perhaps a
> light that is switched off by the potential relays contact so it is easy to
> monitor the ongoing life of the low powered contact in actual real
> operation.   I suspect the Seiman's is more rigid and perhaps won't even
> fail - but it would be good to know.
>
> David
>
> On Fri, Jul 8, 2011 at 4:33 PM, one mad dealer <G...@josephsiaq.com> wrote:
>
>
>
> > Please click the link below to see my How To video on testing the GE
> > contactors.  Since I am using an auto-scale meter, I can just set it
> > to OHM's and test.  Anyone using an older style meter may have to set
> > it to the lower OHM scale.  Enjoy.
>
> > ---Yes Ron, this is your old unit---
>
> >http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UQPrl45DnHw- Hide quoted text -

David Friedman

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Aug 25, 2012, 8:10:39 AM8/25/12
to hallowel...@googlegroups.com
Hi

I found some old posts dating back to your membership on the Google Hallowell site but could not locate you as a member on savemyacadia.org.  I guess you used a name different than torro power or rip or rjp.

You clearly are well aware of the history - and I hope my explanation as to rationale behind use of USMR solution was clear.   What user name are you? 

And dating back to your "booster" question,  the booster start wires the potential relay directly from R to L2 and doesn't need the power contact used as a logic relay - and thus has no inherent starting issue.  Wear will still appear on power contact but that is normal and not a problem.

Is your system up and well?

Thanks for your input.

David

On Tue, Jul 5, 2011 at 10:11 AM, RJP1267 <torro...@gmail.com> wrote:
Once we get past this heat wave I will test them and shoot off the
data.

Also what is the consensus on replacing the booster with the UMSR?
Given the condition of the 2 that have been replaced I dont see how
the booster PR would be in any better condition.

Anyone know what size screws (5) are that hold the external service
panel door? I need to get a tap and re-tap a couple.

Thank you.
On Jul 3, 11:49 am, David Friedman <dafrie...@gmail.com> wrote:

timcharris23

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Aug 25, 2012, 8:26:58 AM8/25/12
to hallowel...@googlegroups.com

I have replaced my two units with carrier greenspeed heat pumps (last Nov ) very happy now ,I now have the best with no issues.  Tim

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