- Chris
My own house is 2-story, single-zone. I had the same idea of running
the fan 24/7 to even out air temperatures. It does indeed do this,
but our indoor humidity rose several percent. (high 50s). Normally,
when the A/C shuts off, the fan shuts off too and all the moisture on
the coil drains away. When the fan runs 24/7, the fan simply
re-evaporates that coil moisture back into the house. We ended up
going back to the standard fan-only-during-conditioning operation.
We also changed the comfort setting jumper on the blower to "humid"
which allows the dehumidification to get a head start.
I suggest trying the always-on fan in your own house and see how it
goes. Every house is different. If humidity isn't a problem, you're
in good shape!
- Chris
Once we get past this heat wave I will test them and shoot off the
data.
Also what is the consensus on replacing the booster with the UMSR?
Given the condition of the 2 that have been replaced I dont see how
the booster PR would be in any better condition.
Anyone know what size screws (5) are that hold the external service
panel door? I need to get a tap and re-tap a couple.
Thank you.
On Jul 3, 11:49 am, David Friedman <dafrie...@gmail.com> wrote:
You are getting into a topic well beyond the Hallowell itself -
running the air handler 24/7 to even out temperatures, but then adding
a dehumidifier to make up for the lack of coil drying. Whole-house
dehumidifiers aren't cheap to buy or install, and they do cost
electricity to run. I suggest you take this question to
As a first step, I would buy a RH gauge and determine your indoor
humidity levels when your fan runs only on-call versus 24/7. If your
RH is high either way, a dehumidifier might be a good investment. If
the RH is only uncomfortable with 24/7 fan operation, then your
dollars may be better spent figuring out how to resolve the
temperature imbalance in other ways. The money spent on a
dehumidifier might also be spent solving the original problem in a
different way.
FYI, we are putting a MyTemp zoning system in our new house. VERY
expensive, but fully solves floor-to-floor and room-to-room
temperature control issues.
- Chris
On Tue, Jul 5, 2011 at 10:14 AM, RJP1267 <torro...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Yeah I have noticed that the RH seems higher, I feel warm/sweat in the
> house despite the temp being 72-73 degrees but my wife thinks its cold
> and looks at me like I am nuts when I say I am hot. Maybe I am going
> through male menopause....... :)
>
> I may look into installing an inline humidifier/dehumidifier on the
> return, any thoughts on that?
Which reminds me, I need to drop some checks in the mail tomorrow...
I am looking forward to:
1. the available of ready-to-install starting caps on your Ebay website
2. instructions on how to test the resistance across the contactors
Is #2 as simple as just shutting down the power and putting a
multimeter across it? Or do I need to also disconnect the connecting
wires too?
- Chris
- Chris
Once we get past this heat wave I will test them and shoot off the
data.
Also what is the consensus on replacing the booster with the UMSR?
Given the condition of the 2 that have been replaced I dont see how
the booster PR would be in any better condition.
Anyone know what size screws (5) are that hold the external service
panel door? I need to get a tap and re-tap a couple.
Thank you.
On Jul 3, 11:49 am, David Friedman <dafrie...@gmail.com> wrote:
I have replaced my two units with carrier greenspeed heat pumps (last Nov ) very happy now ,I now have the best with no issues. Tim