7.5 16 Tyre Size

[Edward]

Useour tyre size calculator to calculate the diameter, width, sidewall, circumference, and revolutions per mile of any tyre. Just type in a metric or standard size tyre and click calculate.Inch measurement tyres are fairly easy to understand however metric tyres use a more difficult system to read. The first number on a metric tyre is the width. Divide this by 25.4 to get inch equivalent. The third number generally preceded by an "R" is the wheel diameter. The sidewall and aspect ratio are used in metric sized tyres to determine the overall height of a tyre. The second number on a metric tyre is to calculate the side wall measurement. The sidewall height is a percentage of the width of the tyre. This second number is that percent. The sidewall height or "aspect ratio" of a 285/75/R16 tyre is 75% of 285mm.

Our tyre calculator makes this happen for you. Just type in the metric fields and click convert to inches. It also solves the problem of deciding what tyre you would like to run if you have inch measurements in mind but can't find a company that manufactures that inch size tyre. Just fill in the inch measurements you are looking for and it will calculate and exact metric version of that tyre. There are many more possibilities and choices in metric tyres so the use of a tyre size calculator can come in handy.

The tire size comparison calculator takes the measurements of two tyres and compares the diameter, width, sidewall, circumference, and revolutions per mile. Then as a bonus it shows examples of your speedometer reading with the first tyre, and the actual speed you"re traveling if you were to install the second tyre. A very useful tyre calculator when searching for tyres that are a different size then stock.

A tyre size conversion calculator or tyre diameter calculator are the best ways to get the answers you are looking for. What sets us apart is our tyre suggestion guide. For each tyre size you input our tyre calculator suggests multiple tyre sizes that are with in one inch bigger and smaller of the entered tyre size. Making it as simple as possible to find the tyre that is just right for you.

All round driving, drag strip every so often but usual day to day driving tbh, just want best performance/grip onstead of going budgets with no grip and loads of road noise

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I've just done the same and I priced up everything from Nexens to Yoko's and for 4 tyres, if you go Bridgestone/Conti/Pirelli, the cost is obscene, and having had all 3 tyre brands on hot hatches in the past, don't particularly rate one from another, but I was recently lucky enough to have a track day and the car I drove was on Avon ZV7's and the way it gripped was amazing, I've took the plunge and had 4 fitted and it came in with fitting, balancing and an alignment check at 420 from Mr Tyre in Derbyshire, I can say that in the wet/dry they're great, road noise is quite and I've done around 1000 miles on them so far and they're not showing any early signs of scrubbing or wandering with regards to uneven wear trends setting in, great tyre for the money. Each to their own though obviously!!

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I wouldn't go changing the tyre size & stick to the O.E 225/40/18, tyres is all a personal choice what some rate others won't but for value for money & performance you won't go far wrong with a set of Uniroyal Rain Sport 3's. Around 80 a corner fitted.

Strictly speaking the "best" width for a tyre will be 20-25mm larger than the official width of the rims they fit on with a tolerance of +/- 10mm. 18" Cadiz are 7.5" or 190.5mm, so the ideal would be 215mm. VW push the envelope to the outer edge by fitting 225s so for a non-Summer tyre you might be able to save a few quid by edging down that 10mm. Don't change the VW recommended aspect ratios if you can help it: 40 on 18" is just fine.

As for brands, it's subjective and everyone has their own favourite, but premium tyres are premium for a reason - check the assorted available tyre tests to see why. Michelin PS4 is probably the premium tyre of choice: on 19" the updated PS4S (not available yet on 18") is definitely the tyre of choice right now for summers. All-season tyres, Michelin CrossClimates are probably #1.

My mates running the Pilot Sport 4's on his S3 and having had a Drive of his car, they are good, but he also said he couldn't feel any difference between the grip in his and the grip in mine, horses for courses I suppose.

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Allegedly, the 215s are something of a win/win.

They apparently should make the speedo more rather than less accurate, should fill the arches better, while actually increasing ground clearance, should look meatier and increase the track a little, should protect your wheels better, should give a larger contact patch, so gripper.

AND they are actually cheaper than 205s.

The big question seems to be, why were they not fitted by Mazda???

The bang for buck tyre mentioned on here the most seems to be the Kumho.

I recently bought a new set of 55mm wheels, 23 internal / 27mm external. I have used the same depth wheels for the past 7 years, and never have I experienced instability on cross-winds as i do now. The only real change (other then the wheelset) is Conti 25mm GP5000 to Conti 30mm GP5000.

Im not sure if this is something that the aero smart people lean into, but has anybody else experienced this before? Can you introduce instability by using larger (30mm tyres) for the rims? Does the tyre stand up taller creating an even deeper profile, or the rim/tyre lightbulbing causing more wind to catch.

Most likely by installing tyres wider than the rim you have moved the stall angle into the yaw range you are experiencing on your rides. Fitting a narrower tyre may move the stall angle. Silca have a write up on it here

In the chart on the Silca website it seems to show that the wider the tyre is than the rim the closer the stall angle moves towards zero degrees yaw. Obviously it will never reach zero but it may push the stall angle into a range of yaws that is experienced more frequently.

While the ENVEs were not perfect (a horrible braking surface and internal spoke nipples, meaning ripping out the tubular in order to tension the spokes) they were very solid in crosswinds. I never had a time where I felt more than steady tension on the handlebars, even in pretty gnarly crosswinds.

What is the shape of that rim crossection? Does it have a round or sharp back? I was once an aerodynamicist. Knowledge half-life expired by now but I have a theory based on my own experiences that the stability of aero rims in CW is down to the Kutta Condition on the back of the rim profile. No real data to justify it, just a hunch and two sets of aero wheels with vastly different CW performances a 30mm AL set with a sharp backface and a 60mm C set with a radiused backface. The 60mm are the most benign wheels I ever rode in a CW.

Specifically, I'm looking to know the maximum rear tyre segment that will fit a DRZ400E swingarm. I'm wanting to put a Heidenau K60 scout 150/70-18 on my DRZ. I'm building it for adventure and also need to commute on it. I like the 150/70-18 as it has the centre ridge and seems to get better mileage than the smaller sized options.

I just fitted a 140/80-18 Heidenau K60 to my DRZ. It fits fine, and I chose this one as I didn't want the centre strip if going offroad. I don't think mileage will be a problem with the K60 140/80-18 at all, but the centre strip has been a problem for people going into mud from what I've read.

tires can vary alot in how they actually fit depending on the make and design .. my thoughts though are that going larger than 130 on the 18" rim will possibly have chain contact problems if the chain isnt new. in other words chain wear 'may' become an issue much sooner than it would with a smaller tire simply because it would start hitting the tire .... also a 130/80 is a much taller tire than stock already which isnt a problem in itself but it will raise the bike higher almost an inch i would say over the stock size, so going even larger would start drastically changing the ride height and gearing. and a related issue would be how it sits on the kickstand, it would lean quite a bit more ..

To bring some order to the situation, most tyres are now marked according to the International Standards Organisation (ISO) in addition to more familiar markings. The ISO size comprises two numbers separated by a dash.

The initial two-digit number is the tyre section and roughly indicates the tyre width. Its actual width is normally less, but varies according to how the tyre is designed and the width of rim to which it is fitted. But the height of the tyre usually corresponds quite closely to tyre section, so overall diameter approximately equals the bead diameter plus twice the section.

Half of the bead diameter (that is, the bead radius) corresponds with the distance from the centre of the wheel to the centre of a brake block. By comparing this dimension you can see if the brakes will reach when a different size rim is fitted to your bike. Switching from 630 to 622, for example, needs another 4mm of brake reach.

Even worse, the same or very similar markings can sometimes be found on completely different sizes of tyre: 261 and 26x1.5. It might be supposed that these two tyres are both notionally 26" diameter and one and a half inches in width, but 261 is a whole inch bigger than 261.5.

Refer to the columns headed Imperial, Metric or American in order to work out what actual (ISO) size you have. The first two headings need no explanation. The American column is for tyre sizes originating in the USA and where US markings may confuse.

The table below lists most of the sizes of tyre that are likely to be found in the UK. Where you see a block of two or more compatible sizes, having the same bead diameter, you can assume that intermediate sizes exist that will also fit the same rim. For example, between 18-622 and 25-622 there are tyres of 19, 20, 22 and 23mm section.

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