Hi all
I've recently come to realise that I really don't do any electronics work at all any more and the stuff I have here is just gathering dust. I started putting together a home lab/workshop of sorts earlier this year, but these days I rarely use any of this kit.
I wanted to see whether you'd be interested in taking any of this off my hands? I'm sure the hackspace can make far better use of it than I can.
Most of the components I've accumulated over the years I'll happily donate to the hackspace for free, but there are a couple of larger things which I'd like to get some money back on - if you guys are interested, that is (whether for your own personal use or for the hackspace).
Free stuff:
- Raspberry Pi Compute Module with carrier/IO board & camera adaptor board (no power supply though, sorry) - the IO board should be compatible with the Compute Module 3, if/when it's ever released
- Fotek SSR-25 DA solid state relay - a reflow toaster oven that never happened...
- 3.5" Composite LCD, modified to work from 5V - one of those "reversing camera" LCDs you see all over fleaBay/Amazon
- Through hole tactile switches: ~20x regular switches, 3x 5-way "joystick"-style switches - a Raspberry Pi handheld that never happened...
- RGB illuminated rotary encoder
- Nokia 5110 LCD - I'll never remember why I bought this...
- E sky EK2-0422 4-channel RC receiver - has a 27.045MHz FM module installed, but I don't have a matching TX module/unit
- 0.1" pitch header pins
- Misc through hole resistors, 60 different values, unknown quantity
- Misc through hole electrolytic caps, unknown values, unknown quantity
- Through hole ceramic caps, 14 different values - unopened pack of 224 caps
- 1x 8xAA battery holder
- 2x 2xAAA battery holders
- 32x IR LED array - pretty sure it needs a 12V supply
- Hitachi HD44780 LCD - I think it's 20x2 characters
- Arduino Duemilanove - Early model, but it's an ATMega328P so it should still work just fine
- 4x HC-SR04 ultrasonic sensors
- 3x Sharp GP2Y0D810Z0F IR sensor modules (mounted on Pololu carrier boards)
- 3x 8-DIP TI OPA2132PA OpAmps - made a few headphone amps using these.
- 5x TI TPA2008D2 3W Stereo Class-D amp ICs
- 5x TI TPA6030A4 3W Stereo Class-AB power amp ICs
The next two are not so free, I'm afraid.
I have a Tenma 72-10480 30V/3A digital bench power supply which I've powered up a grand total of 3 times in 7 months; apparently according to
this article it's a rebranded Korad KA3003D. These go for around £55-£70 new (incl. VAT), but I'd be happy to let it go for £25. Pic here:
https://i.imgur.com/wbovyds.jpg
And finally, I think it's time to part with my 3D printer... Officially it's a HICTOP 3DP-11 - basically it's a Prusa i3 design with an aluminium frame instead of acrylic. It uses a heated aluminium build plate which does unfortunately have a few marks/imperfections, but if you're using tape as a bed liner you won't notice this. The controller board is labelled as "MKS Base v1.4", which appears to be a clone of the RAMPS board - they're compatible with RAMPS and I've loaded Marlin 1.1.0 RC5 on mine. It uses lead screws instead of threaded rods for the Z-axis and I printed some brackets for the Z-axis guide rods to help stabilise things (originally the guide rods mounted into a ~2mm metal plate, so they were prone to coming loose). I spent a long... long time calibrating this thing and getting it working *just* right, but I really don't use this as much as I thought I would. My calibrations are saved in EEPROM but could easily be input into the Marlin config files and flashed directly into the firmware.
This printer works really well for a cheap kit printer, but from what I can gather it's not too dissimilar from many other self-built low-cost 3D printers: it can be a bit fussy and it needs babysitting in case anything goes wrong. The only major issue I noticed is that the print bed is ever so slightly warped. It's less than 0.5mm out, so it's going to be really easy to fix: the bed is aluminium, it'll bend back into shape really easily - worst case scenario, a new heated bed won't cost all that much. But if you're trying to precisely level the bed then it is noticeable - if you fully level the bed in all four corners and then move either the X or Y carriages you will see the nozzle make contact with the bed.
I've no idea how to price this. I originally paid just shy of £300 for the kit, so how does £220 sound? People are more than welcome to pop round to see it working before hand - transporting it may cause some parts to need adjustment, so if you're going to buy it from me I'd rather you see it in its current working state. Unfortunately I lost the original assembly instructions during a hard drive crash; if you ever need to disassemble anything then make sure you take measurements.
Photos: